dr-rjp

iTrader: (4)

A month ago I had a new set of KYB AGX struts & shocks installed along with new KYB strut mounts/bearings. Despite getting the front end aligned three times, the steering wheel fails to return to center after a complete turn -- either left or right -- and the car pulls in the direction of the completed turn.

Can the mounts of struts have been installed incorrectly? Is something causing the steering to bind? Or, is the steering rack coincidentally going bad?

What do you think?

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

Haynes says the following for failing to return to center (or, memory steer) -
Check lube of balljoints and tie-rod ends (presumably inner and outer)
Balljoints binding (which again, would be a lube problem, or wearing out)
Steering column binding up
Rack not lubed up
And of course alignment.

Who has been doing your alignments? Do you have the 'corrected' specs?

dr-rjp

iTrader: (4)

The last one to do the alignment was Tire Kingdom. Before that it was Tires Plus. I know...not the best place to get it done, but my regular machanic will not mess with my front end since he did not do the installation of the AGX's.

I did get a printout from the 3nd time the front end was adjusted and everything was in spec, although some were on the borderline.

The memory steer problem is not a constant thing as there are moments when it operates normally.

I should add that the bushings on my front sway bar are totally shot and I'm having them replaced this afternoon. I had the LCA bushings replaced last weekend and the sway bar would have been done also had I brought them along.

If there is a chance that a shifting sway bar could be the problem, I will know for sure when I pick up the car.

Also, I will have them print off the specs for their adjustment and post them here.

Thanks for the info.

njmaxseltd

iTrader: (19)

Do check the clocking of the upper spring perch. It shouldn't have much effect on your issue, but I see way to many suspension installs done wrong because the clocking is off. The word OUT stamped on top of the upper perch must face outwards or be in line with the sturts lower mounting flange.

Post your alignamnt specs as well. We can only guess at what is actually causing your steering problem until we see exactly how the front end is set up.

dr-rjp

iTrader: (4)

Thanks for the heads-up. I never heard of "clocking."

BTW, I remember hearing from somewhere that the springs pivot (or maybe the struts?) when the wheels are turned. Whatever is going on with them, it is more than memory steer -- there is a definite binding that I can hear, as if something is locking up after doing a full turn to either side.

I hear a short "clunk," and then the steering wheel remains cocked to the side of the turn and the car veers off in that direction.

A quick steer of 1/4 turn in the opposite direction "unlocks" the steering.

It has been this way since the installation, so your comments about the "clocking" makes sense.

However, that all may be moot as I'm going to have to replace these struts/shocks as they are way too stiff and bouncy for me. I have a chronic neck injury that was doing fine up until I installed the new AGX's and drove around on them. Even though they are set on "1," I started getting neck spasms from the jolts I felt in my spine.

I'll have to switch to Tokico Blues or GR-2's, but I cannot afford the installation costs just yet, so I'll have to deal with them until I do.

That is why solving this steering problem is a priority.

i'm going to take my car back to the place that did the intall (a muffler shop).

njmaxseltd

iTrader: (19)

GR2's will ride exactly the same as your AGX setup. They are very stiff.
Tokico Blues will give you back that new car like ride. Nice and smooth with good ride control.

dr-rjp

iTrader: (4)

Thanks. That confirms other reports i've heard about the GR-2's. BTW, when I had my '92 Max, I replaced the stock suspension with GR-2's. They felt great....for about 6 months, that is, then they started to lose their damping effect to where it felt like my stock struts/shocks were reinstalled.

RE: the clocking adjustment on the spring perch. I found this diagram in the Maxima ESM:




Is there a better diagram than this one that shows how the parts should go, as well as the amount of labor required to do so?

Thanks again.

dr-rjp

iTrader: (4)

I had my front suspension checked and the mechanic verified that the springs are binding and popping. The sleeves are attached at the bottom of both springs ahd they are seated on the bottom perch properly.

I asked him what if the top hat were not clocked properly, like if the word, "OUT," faced the car instead of the wheel well. He said that doing so would throw off the camber (which was OK).

The strut mounts and bearings are both new and operating properly, so he seemed to think that the struts were not properly torqued during the installation. If the guys who did the install used stock specs instead of KYB recommended specs (if there are any), then could that be the source of the binding springs?

Either way, it looks like they are going to have to pull them out and reinstall them.

Any more thoughts?

BlackKnight

iTrader: (5)

I have your solution to the steering returning to center. I had the same problem and had 3-4 alignments before figuring out what it was. Each time I replaced tie rods, strut bearings, control arm bushings, etc. It is either the driver side, passenger side or both steering rack bushings. They are quite inexpensive to purchase (I found mine at Napa) and at least one is easy to replace. I believe it is the driver side bushing that is the easy one (could be wrong though). I am 98% sure this is why it is not returning to center. Good luck.

dr-rjp

iTrader: (4)

Which bushings are these?

96i30azn

Thats a sway bar so i'm guessing sway bar bushings? Anyway here's one I found on ebay.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Front...spagenameZWD1V

BlackKnight

iTrader: (5)

Those would be your sway bar bushings. They are quite cheap to replace. Courtesy parts @ courtesyparts.com has Energy Suspension replacements for I belive $15 or so for all the bushings related to the sway bar. Here's the link to their Energy Suspension page. I just looked and apparently they are out of stock on the sway bar bushings that mount to the frame. Do a google search for Energy Suspension 7.5118 and you'll find them. They normally run about $8 for the set. I'd recommend the ES ones and not crappy rubber. The only other thing you'd need for that is the end links themselves if yours are trashed where the bolt attaches to the control arm. These bushings might help your ride quality, but I'm still 98% sure that you need to replace your steering rack bushings. To check them, jack up the car, use jackstands, get under the steering rack and look at it while you have a friend turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock. If you see the rack moving forward, backward, or side to side, then one or both of the bushings are toast. The rack should not move at all.

Good luck,

Paul

dr-rjp

iTrader: (4)

Thanks, I just needed confirmation. I bought ES bushings and they were supposed to have been installed by a local shop...but someone screwed up (or screwed me over).