id go upto 300,000mi as long as everything looks good, performs good, and taken cared of.

 

Look up how many owners the car has had on Carfax too...if one has only had one owner, then there's a good chance it was treated better than one that's had several..

 

That was the one I just picked up...252000 miles...still runs like a top for the most part. At $2150, it was a good deal.

 

I think you should buy a 97 with 144k miles on it for $7k! Oh wait, that's mine thats for sale.

 

7000?????? Why hasn't it sold yet? I thought you would get a little more than 7K for your ride. GL with the sale as it is one of the nicest looking maxima's ive ever seen. And congrats on Max of the Month!

 

I wish I knew

 

Dude, I love that orange color on your max! I almost bought a 2006 Chevy Cobalt from the dealership I used to work at with a very similar color. It makes you smile everytime you get into it because you know that EVERYONE envies you and your rare colored car.

If I would've known I was going to spend almost $5k rebuilding my friend's max I bought from him I would have never even bought it in the first place. I see your car and think "Man! If only I would have waited..."

 

man alot of good input in this thread, id say go with the 98 for 5k, i mean look at it like this, if your worried about engine failure, 8k-5k=3k, that can buy a engine and the labor to put it in if worst comes to worst, which i doubt it or you could rebuild the engine i mean 3k is alot you could do mechanical to make the 98 that much better but idk the 99 is comforting i geuss, i dont see things like a comfort zone no more because whatever breaks on a car can be fixed, you can get literally anything. but holla let us know what happens.

 

i don't think you could go wrong either way. just have the vehicle get checked by a professional shop you trust, NOT where the car is being sold. that's what i did, spent a little $$$ but i almost bought a car that LOOKED perfect... glad i didn't... & airmattdog, you should know by now that it's nearly impossible to sell modded cars. you'll NEVER get back what you spent, and people mod their cars for very personal reasons... hence why ppl don't want to buy someone else's modded car, if they're going to mod a car they'd probably rather do it themselves... not tryin to belittle your car, it's hawt. just keep it, c'mon!

 

I know its shady but you can also ask the owner if they have had the timing belt changed at 100k. They will of course say no and tell them the job costs $1000 and if they knock off $500 etc you will take it. Its not like they are going to be 100% honest to the potential buyer! I know my seller sure as heck didn't. Rebuilt Salvage title that was never mentioned...but its partially my fault for not carfaxing.

 

Considering there is no timing belt... they would be apt to say no.

 

Guess that went over your head ;-) My point was that not many people even know what a timing belt is let alone that it needs to be changed and of course don't know that the Maxima has a chain instead. Therefore you can use that for price leverage.

 

i picked up a 98 blk/blk auto for the wife with 213k miles for 2500. in almost mint condition.

 

the lower the mileage the better, 97-99 only if 4th gen

 

Ok you win, I was just tryin to be a 'er

 

Hah! No worries.

 

You must not know much about these cars.

 

whats there not to know ? the coils on the 99 can be replaced, the front and back end looks better on the 97-99 as well as the little things like the electronics dodometer on the 98-99 AC changes i believe and something else i am forgetting at the moment

 

You must not know that mileage is really not an issue with these cars. 95-99 can run and run as long as you properly maintain it. Plenty of 4th gen owners have run near 400k miles.

 

oh no i realize that, i just prefer the look of the 97-99, there were more electrical problems with the 95-96 models tho. I would still rather pick one with a little lower mileage if possible.

here is a little info from the consumer guide website (only one recall in history for 4th gens isnt that great ? :
1995-1999 Nissan Maxima: Reliability
Trouble Spots
Consumer Guide's® Auto Editors have scoured repair bulletins and questioned mechanics to search for commonly occurring problems for a particular vehicle. In some cases we also give possible manufacturer-suggested solutions. In many instances these trouble spots are Technical Service Bulletins posted by the manufacturer, however, we have our own expert looking at additional vehicle problems.

Automatic transmission: The original automatic-transmission (model F04) shift solenoids allowed slipping and premature wear. (1997)

Brake noise: Rear brakes rattle on rough road. (1995)

Brake noise: Groaning from the rear brakes is caused by the parking brakes not fully releasing, requiring new brake cables and pads. (1995-99)

Brake noise: Groaning from rear brakes at slow speeds may be due to binding parking brake cable. 1995-99)

Clutch: The clutch may slip when accelerating hard in 4th or 5th gear due to a problem with the friction material. (1995)

Engine knock: Spark knock or ping may result from a defective onboard computer. (1995-97)

Engine noise: Noise from the front of the engine may be caused by excessive play in the timing chain for which a new tensioner and chain guide are required. (1995-96)

Hard starting: Hard starting, stalling, or stumbling under load could be caused by corrosion of the coolant sensor. (1995-96)

Hard starting: If the engine does not start on the first attempt, the engine may crank very slowly on the second attempt because of a problem with the engine-control computer. (1995)

Rough idle: Several problems (no-start, no A/C, rough running, etc.) can be traced to broken wires in the engine compartment where the harness bends near the right strut tower. (1995-97)

Rough idle: Rough running engine accompanied by check engine light may require revised powertrain control module. (1997)

NHTSA Recall History
1997-98: One of the diodes in the alternator may be damaged and could fail, leading to an electrical short which could melt the plastic housing.

 

A mechanic told me the other day that the 4th Gen has issues with the steering rack failing early on. Any truth to that? I know mine is out at 105k but she's had a rough life. Leak at tie rod attach point etc.

 

get the 98 if it looks well maintained and has all its service records...

 

I just bought mine for $2000 with 119,000 miles....

Some rust around wheel wells, and it only had 3 hubcaps that were scuffed up....

I think i got a pretty good deal....

 

holy bump tuesday

 

Remember carfax dosen't mean anything if the accident was never reported, The highest I would go on the mileage is about 150 I bought mine with 125,xxx on it. They are def pretty reliable cars just gotta keep'em maintained. Good luck homes, and don't give up I was lookin 4 a Max 4 a couple of months until I found one really worth buying. Don't rush take your time and see whats out there...

 

I have 225k on mine, and it's still running strong!