Doesnt matter if you agree or not. Go to Nissan and go buy one. They dont rattle when new. The Purolators (aftermarket) will but not the Nissan PCV's.

 

breaker bar. make sure you are turning it the right way. WD-40 wont unfreeze bolts. PBlaster is more for that application. If you have a pipe to put over the ratchet handle that can help.

 

All starter threads go here.

 

yea i just changed my started in the freakin cold.. in the snow.. i got out to my car gettin ready for class.. goin to start and warm up the car (engine, transmision) and the car wouldnt turn over.. i popped the hood and asked my brother to try to start it. When he does, smoke comes outta my starter.. i was like.. WTF. so i pulled my starter outta my trunk and replaced it.. (no i dont have a spare starter in my trunk. my starter has been acting up.. everytime i start the car, a grindy, ugly sound comes out..) it worked fine for the first 2 starts, after i stopped at a store to get some coffee, my car wouldnt turn over again.. gotta "feather" the gas to get it moving.. i was about to post a thread askin for some suggestions, but i guess the cold really is one of the main causes of this. im gonna take my car to pepboyz tonite, a buddy of mine is a mechanic and is workin there.. ill bring it by to see wat the REAL problem is.. ill keep u guys updated..

quick question, if i change a fuel filter, wat changes should i expect? i.e (better gas mileage? faster?) just curious..

 

breaker bar (if you have enough room) or get one of those extention.. i have like a 3 ft extention for situations like those.. it def made my job easier.. also uses it for changing spark plugs

 

my buddy actually told me that the Mitchell book (or watever its called) actually says to press the gas 1/3 way down for a start in the cold. So i guess its actually normal for 4th gens.. we will run an idle test sometime later.. a test to test the "base" idle.. ( i didnt kno there was a base idle, and the "other" idle)

 

It wasnt normal when the cars were new, why would it be normal now?

 

Very true, your car should be able to start fine in the cold. If it doesn't then you have a problem. Using the gas pedal is a way AROUND the problem, but you still have the underlying cause that has not been fixed. Not starting in the cold should clue you in that you have a problem that you need to find and fix.

 

Clogging of the fuel filter, bad spark plugs, bad coil packs, bad starter...

 

I am pretty sure somewhere in Maxima forum land there is a thread saying how step by step.
I am going to ask you,because I know you know, what exactly do I need. Put it in chick terms when it comes to talking about cars...cause when you guys talk I am like what does that mean.

Thanks Dude,

You can even send it in a PM. Pics would be great.

 

So after leaving the car outside for 5 nights and a streak of cold weather, my car won't start either. I don't want to keep cranking it and flood the engine.

The fuel can't be a problem, so its got to be NGK coppers sparkies. I put them in this summer, I don't if they are as good as platinums in winter. I think I may have to take them out for inspection or put in the nissan platinums in there and wait for the fuel to evaporate.

Depressing the pedal in the winter does help, it will add more pressure give a better air/fuel mixture if the cylinders have fuel in it. I am hoping this is the problem or else I am looking at a $60 tow plus whatever else the garage decides to screw me on.

I am parked in the school parking lot, in the first available spot (for 5 nights) and it will look stupid if I start replacing parts while everyone hovers around expecting me to free up that top spot. AND it is -10C outside right now.

edit: had to get the thing towed. Sparkplugs a miss, fuel filter change did jacko. One garage put in a CD to check out the nissan specs at which point I asked them to stop and have to towed to the stealership.

 

The car won't start
The starter wont even go on.
Whats the most common problem with this?
I don't think its the ignition switch because I took it apart and tried to hotwire it but it still wouldn't start.

Also, I think the starter is ok because when I was hitting it with my screwdriver i accidentally hit the two connectors on it and it made a noise (it tured), but I may be wrong.

Please help, I need the car to work ASAP.

Thanks,
Oleg

 

Manual or Auto?

I'd check the function of the Clutch Safety Switch (MT) or Neutral Safety Switch/Brake On Off Switch (AT)

 

It's AT. wheres the Neutral Safety Switch/Brake On Off Switch (AT) and how can I check it?

 

I Installed a shock sensor for the factory alarm a few days ago, but the car started after that. (could that cause it not to start?)
Also, I installed a TV and a DVD player last night, but the car started fine after that.

Ever since I bought the car about 6 months ago it had trouble starting. By trouble I mean it would start on the second or third try, but sometimes would start fine. The started wouldn't turn and I wouldn't hear anything except for the fuel pump and the relay clicking. I just thought it was the ignition switch and it didn't really bother me that much. Now it won't turn even after the 30th time.

 

I just noticed that when the key is in the "ON" position the check engine light, brake light, battery light, and oil light are all on.
Does that mean anything?

 

c'mon, anyone?

 

Yes, it means the lights are not burned out.

 

lol k, but what about the no start?
anyone know?

 

have you confirmed proper battery voltage and good connections?

 

Did the shock sensor get attached to the starting system at all?


You need to get your hands on a Haynes manual (library) and check out the wiring diagram for the starting system. Follow it and find any lockouts (like the neutral safety switch) and then test the voltage at each connection.

Does the alarm have a starter immobiliser? If you altered the factory alarm wiring then could you have messed up something in the alarm?

 

well i followed the directions in the how-to section when I installed the shock sensor and the car started fine after that.
I was thinking that the battery died, but I tried jump starting it and it didn't work.

 

There is a WHOLE thread just for starter issues. Transferring this now.

 

k so I tried jump starting it again today and nothing.
I also got a wire, connected it to the battery and with the other end i touched the starter and it turned really fast but nothing happened.
what else can it be?

 

Anyone???????

 

try taking the strater out and get someone to turn the ignition on and see if the started turns.

 

If I change the starter will that fix the problem?
What if its something else?

 

When I touched the starter with the + it sounded like the starter motor turned really fast, but it didn't turn the engine. It's wierd.

 

when you turn the key is there a clicking sound? or when you try jumping is there a clicking sound?

 

the relay next to the fuses clicks once

 

i was talkin about the starter. if it doesnt click when u turn the key or when you try to jump it that the starter is shot and its time for a new one. if it clicks when u try to jump it could be battery, loose connections, bad ground...

actually, ide check the battery connections and grounds before changing the starter, cause if u buy a starter and it ends up being a ground/connection ure gunna be kickin yourself.

 

yeah I took out the starter and tested it at autozone and it failed the test.
So I just replaced it and that fixed the problem.
thanks guys

 

first, my 95 Max failed to motor
so I replaced the failed starter, which proved by autozone test

before the starter failure, everything else is fine
now it has both starting and idling problems

COLD ENGINE START PROBLEM
turn the ignition key, after 2 or 3 seconds, will catch fire for a split of a second, then dies

COLD ENGINE IDLE PROBLEM
start the engine by applying some gas, then idle will be around 800 rpm with 50 fluctuation

HOT ENGINE START IS FINE

HOT ENGINE IDLE PROBLEM
idle will be around 300 rpm with 100 fluctuation


no engine light in dash board and no code is available by turning screw of the on board computer
got p0443 code from dealer reader

but purge volume control valve problem doesn't match the symptom

is it true that those obd2 reader can extract more information than just turning the screw?
should I order a new purge volume control valve (dealer only) ?

thanks,

 

Bumping this...