A little insight on my CV axle install
03-03-2007, 02:25 PM
#1
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Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 202
A little insight on my CV axle install
Today I got out there and changed my CV axles along with shock/struts, springs and a front strut tower bar. I only completed the front because I had a hard time getting the passenger axle back into the hub. After about 2 hours I finally got it in. After I finished the front I drove around my aprtment complex to test it out. Everything went good until like 30 minutes later I got a grinding noise in all gears. I ended up having to push the car back to my house. I oticed that I didn't reinstall the bracket that holds the passenger axle on. I was thinking that mayne this could be the problem. I think I left it off because it was easlier to get it back in with out it. The grinding was even happening when I put it in park. I hope I didn't mess my car up. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
03-03-2007, 04:51 PM
#2
I think the best help I could give you is to lift the car up and figure out wtf happened down there.
That passenger bearing bracket is very important - the axle would just slap around against all kinds of stuff without it, and probably shred the inner CV boot.
Or, if you left the bracket in place and simply didn't put the 3 screws in from the bearing to the bracket, you may have gouged the taper fit some. Hopefully though with the bolts you can draw it back in securely.
Dave
That passenger bearing bracket is very important - the axle would just slap around against all kinds of stuff without it, and probably shred the inner CV boot.
Or, if you left the bracket in place and simply didn't put the 3 screws in from the bearing to the bracket, you may have gouged the taper fit some. Hopefully though with the bolts you can draw it back in securely.
Dave
03-03-2007, 04:57 PM
#3
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I hope I didn't shred it. It was only on for about 5 minutes after I heard the grinding noise. I shut it off and pushed it all the way back home. Hopefully I can get that bracket back on and it will be ok. I kinda guessed it was probably bouncing around in there without that bracket holing the shaft in the right place. I am going to reattempt tomorrow. I ran out of daylight.
03-04-2007, 05:21 PM
#6
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Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 202
I took it out because it was easier to get to the three bolts on the opposite side of the bracket. I got it back in and I don't have any more problems. Thanks Dave.
I have another question. On the drivers front, I installed springs and struts. Whenever I make a hard left turn the spring sort of makes a popping sound. I am pretty sure it is in there right. I took it off and couldn't find a problem with it. How will this effect my driving?
I have another question. On the drivers front, I installed springs and struts. Whenever I make a hard left turn the spring sort of makes a popping sound. I am pretty sure it is in there right. I took it off and couldn't find a problem with it. How will this effect my driving?
06-04-2007, 07:16 PM
#7
When i put the right side back on I must have torn the boot trying to line the strut mount back to the knuckle. Am I missing a trick, as that was the hardest part for me..... and I am deciding If i want to try it again or pay someone to do it.
06-05-2007, 07:47 AM
#11
I bought the manual and it is average at best. The axle is back in, I just don't know if there is an easier way to complete the step of mounting the strut bracket back to the knuckle. On my installation, it was VERY Difficult to keep the bottom of the strut off the outer boot while trying to line it back up. I ended up splitting the boot trying to wedge the 2 back together(the strut and the knuckle) . I don't know if my strut / spring is out of spec, but it was a beatchot to line up and I ended up screwing it up. They Hanynes manual says: Mount the strut to the knuckle and you and move on. Now, I am hoping that I did something wrong... but, if I did it wasn't something that was listed in the $17 manual 
Anyone else had the same problem? And forgive me in advance for not being a mechanically gifted as others.
Anyone else had the same problem? And forgive me in advance for not being a mechanically gifted as others.
06-05-2007, 07:59 AM
#12
heres what you need to do the stru can be pulled toward you, have a jack under the control arm jack it up push the knockle into the strut assm line it up, slam the bottom bolt through and then let go of the jack a little and pivot the top and put the top oblt in
06-05-2007, 09:10 AM
#15
Not the whole car, but the whole front needs to be lifted. Otherwise the swaybar will make it all but impossible to move the suspension parts.
I have also noticed how easily the boot can be damaged upon reassembly. It really helps to have something to lift the knuckle upward - IIRC this adds some space to insert the axle without tearing up the boot.
Dave
I have also noticed how easily the boot can be damaged upon reassembly. It really helps to have something to lift the knuckle upward - IIRC this adds some space to insert the axle without tearing up the boot.
Dave
06-05-2007, 04:40 PM
#17
I had only the right side jacked up ... and had VERY little movement on any part. I did take the balljoint off so that i could turn the knuckle. If you jack both sides up does that free up the control arm to pivot horizontally?
If so that was indeed the problem as I had NO movement horizontally and had to basically compress the spring to pick up the strut mount to match up the knuckle.
If so that was indeed the problem as I had NO movement horizontally and had to basically compress the spring to pick up the strut mount to match up the knuckle.
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