NOOBIES: "I AM NEW HERE BUT HAVE A QUESTION" thread. Read FIRST post BEFORE posting!
#4121
#4122
#4123
this should be pmohr and The Wizard Q&A thread...
Question, I'm no longer a FT employee but I wanna damn paint job and a good one at that. There are a bunch of body shops round and i'm plannin on gettin the paint and doin prep work myself. What kinda paint should I get PPG, Dupont, something better??
Also how important is weather when doing prep work such as humididty while priming?
Question, I'm no longer a FT employee but I wanna damn paint job and a good one at that. There are a bunch of body shops round and i'm plannin on gettin the paint and doin prep work myself. What kinda paint should I get PPG, Dupont, something better??
Also how important is weather when doing prep work such as humididty while priming?
#4124
this should be pmohr and The Wizard Q&A thread...
Question, I'm no longer a FT employee but I wanna damn paint job and a good one at that. There are a bunch of body shops round and i'm plannin on gettin the paint and doin prep work myself. What kinda paint should I get PPG, Dupont, something better??
Also how important is weather when doing prep work such as humididty while priming?
Question, I'm no longer a FT employee but I wanna damn paint job and a good one at that. There are a bunch of body shops round and i'm plannin on gettin the paint and doin prep work myself. What kinda paint should I get PPG, Dupont, something better??
Also how important is weather when doing prep work such as humididty while priming?
The more humid, the longer the dry time, IIRC.
#4125
I ohmed everything sans the bnib from autozone and the only off portion I could find was a rear at 0.5 mohm low. I replaced that one and cranked it up to the car shaking still. About to ohm the autozone one. All of the front three are 'working' coils with one of them bnib from autozone while the rear three only have one from a working setup prior to install. The other two ohmed fine. I did notice on the rear, cylinder 2, one of the screws won't go in firm to the coil body but will fit snug as if there is a threading issue.
About to clean out TB, EGR, etc and hope that is the cause.
About to clean out TB, EGR, etc and hope that is the cause.
Last edited by bushd; 07-08-2009 at 02:54 PM.
#4126
I just threw a cel, which was finally a good one.
0607-> Cylinder 2 misfire
KS
0201-> one of the coils isn't connected correctly, probably 2
Last edited by bushd; 07-08-2009 at 03:17 PM.
#4127
I just replaced cylinder 2 with the old cylinder 2 coil and no misfire code hitting. Why would misfire codes hit for cylinder 2 but not elsewhere? It also hit with a signal circuit code as well so that makes me think all of the coilpacks are fine and it may be something else.
Out of the muffler is the shake just like the engine in terms of sound, put put put in the same times as the vibrations of the engine instead of a constant hum.
What if it isn't a misfire but a clogged injector? Less fuel getting into chamber that would offbalance the firing sequence, causing shaking?
Went to listen to fuel injectors and cel lit up this time - 0201 and 0304 again. I'm not sure where the 21 is coming from because everything is connected and a cylinder would be throwing a misfire code certainly if it wasn't connected.
Out of the muffler is the shake just like the engine in terms of sound, put put put in the same times as the vibrations of the engine instead of a constant hum.
What if it isn't a misfire but a clogged injector? Less fuel getting into chamber that would offbalance the firing sequence, causing shaking?
Went to listen to fuel injectors and cel lit up this time - 0201 and 0304 again. I'm not sure where the 21 is coming from because everything is connected and a cylinder would be throwing a misfire code certainly if it wasn't connected.
Last edited by bushd; 07-08-2009 at 04:32 PM.
#4128
Alright, well I have a 96 I30 and I'm aware this isn't the I30 forum but I have some sort of starting problem. When it's hot out and the interior of the car is hot my car won't start. There is no turning over or any response when the key won't turn any longer. I've tried doing a search but I've come across nothing. So does anyone know why my car won't start?
#4129
#4130
I thought I searched well enough, I was wrong. Thanks again.
#4131
Fuel filter replaced - that old one was filthy fuel coming out the bottom intake nozzle after I finally got it off. The father thinks it may be a valve thats not moving properly and the cam is coming around and hiting it. That's going to be an all day job on this car and I thought the fuel filter was a pita.
I think I'm going to take it to some places to see what they think and try to get myself a fuel injector to see if that helps the problem by playing pin the tail on the potentially dead injector.
I'll try and get a movie with sound tomorrow if I can so that this issue is easier to diagnose.
I think I'm going to take it to some places to see what they think and try to get myself a fuel injector to see if that helps the problem by playing pin the tail on the potentially dead injector.
I'll try and get a movie with sound tomorrow if I can so that this issue is easier to diagnose.
Last edited by bushd; 07-08-2009 at 08:30 PM.
#4132
WEIRD RADIO PROBLEM
i had all stock bose system in my car and it worked fine, but i have subs i want to put in with a new head unit. Well i put the head unit in, now, the radio comes on and everything but there is absolutly no sound. i have the right adapters and everything is wired right. but i dont know what the black and white wire is if it even has a use, so can anyone help me with this problem
i had all stock bose system in my car and it worked fine, but i have subs i want to put in with a new head unit. Well i put the head unit in, now, the radio comes on and everything but there is absolutly no sound. i have the right adapters and everything is wired right. but i dont know what the black and white wire is if it even has a use, so can anyone help me with this problem
#4133
so i dropped my tranny, no struggles or sweat. as i rolled it out from my max i noticed these wires that went into the back of it. they seem to be cut. i looked all around in my engine bay and there were no ends or leads to those wires. any ideas as too what they are supposed to go to? the pic is my profile image
#4134
WEIRD RADIO PROBLEM
i had all stock bose system in my car and it worked fine, but i have subs i want to put in with a new head unit. Well i put the head unit in, now, the radio comes on and everything but there is absolutly no sound. i have the right adapters and everything is wired right. but i dont know what the black and white wire is if it even has a use, so can anyone help me with this problem
i had all stock bose system in my car and it worked fine, but i have subs i want to put in with a new head unit. Well i put the head unit in, now, the radio comes on and everything but there is absolutly no sound. i have the right adapters and everything is wired right. but i dont know what the black and white wire is if it even has a use, so can anyone help me with this problem
So you used the adapter for an aftermarket head unit with the Bose speakers? You are aware of the unique design of the Bose speakers, correct?
If you don't know what two wires are, how you can you state that 'everything is wired right'?
so i dropped my tranny, no struggles or sweat. as i rolled it out from my max i noticed these wires that went into the back of it. they seem to be cut. i looked all around in my engine bay and there were no ends or leads to those wires. any ideas as too what they are supposed to go to? the pic is my profile image
The 'back' meaning...at the extreme rear of the rear housing (the true 'back' of the trans)? The right side of the trans (where the diff is, what you may be calling the 'back')?
#4135
as if you are standing with the input shaft pointing away from you the wire in question is on the top right corner. i posted a larger image in my album. the yellow arrow points to the base of the wires and the red arrow points to the end/cut end of the wires
#4136
That's the revolution sensor, the engine control harness side of that connector should be right with the other trans connectors for solenoids/inhibitor switch.
#4137
the black and white wire is from the adaptor i bought. on the back of my head unit all the wires are matched up, and in the appropriate position. and i heard about the i ohm on the bose amps, and the head-unit i have is 4-5ohms, one of the two. so is that what could be making this issue? if i eliminate the amps, would i hvae good sound?
#4138
the black and white wire is from the adaptor i bought. on the back of my head unit all the wires are matched up, and in the appropriate position. and i heard about the i ohm on the bose amps, and the head-unit i have is 4-5ohms, one of the two. so is that what could be making this issue? if i eliminate the amps, would i hvae good sound?
If so, there's your problem.
#4140
#4141
my brake light on my dash came on a couple of weeks ago. i checked under my hood to see my brake fluid level and it was on the minimum line. i topped it off, and the brake light went off. since than, this happens every 3 days. could this be a leak? my front pads & rotors were changed back in september, only about ~10k on them
Well it's certainly going somewhere.
Have you checked for a leak yet? It should be fairly obvious if you're losing that much in that period of time, should be a large wet spot along the lines somewhere.
If you don't see anything on the lines/hoses themselves, it's possible it's leaking back into the booster as well.
Have you checked for a leak yet? It should be fairly obvious if you're losing that much in that period of time, should be a large wet spot along the lines somewhere.
If you don't see anything on the lines/hoses themselves, it's possible it's leaking back into the booster as well.
#4142
If you mean the one in the grill, have you actually removed the grill and taken a look yet? If not, do so. It's all extremely self explanatory.
#4143
Without knowing what part is leaking, there's no way to tell you what to replace. Could be the hard line, the flex hose, or the caliper.
#4144
I'm probably going to open an individual thread on my issue. I've switched around the rest of the coil packs and nothing happened so it doesn't appear to be a bad ignition coil pack (Ohming was all good). Still having an issue though it seems like there may be an issue in the IACV or TB because something right around those two is making quite a bit of noise that coincides (noise pattern) with the engine noise. I just grabbed MAF and carb cleaner so I can start on cleaning that side after I get home from univ. tonight.
I popped a can of berryman's into the tank today after filling with 93 from Chevron. I'm going to run through two tanks using berryman's before taking another crack at it. The car certainly accelerates smoother with the new fuel filter but there is that shaking/noise issue. It really seems to only happen when I'm at lower speeds/lower rpms. I haven't been on the highway today but at 45 mph the shaking isn't as pronounced. I did play with the gears to try and help diagnosis today at a red light. When I was in drive and braked it would shake pretty badly but when I put it into neutral it wouldn't shake near as bad but at the same time going into neutral the RPMs went up. When I was in drive they're about 650 rpm sans acceleration at a red light. Same thing for drive as is reverse, rpms lower to 650-ish and shakes the car. I did notice when RPMs were up and I was accelerating when I'd let off the accelerator the shaking would calm down as if coasting caused no issue when at higher RPMs.
Oh, for information the vehicle does a harder shift (AT) from 1st to 2nd but after that its smooth sailing.
I'm still getting codes of 0201 and 0304. I've triple checked all of the ignition coil packs to make sure the plugs are securely connected. I haven't disconnected anything else except the coils -> 21 is the signal circuit. It popped up the last time I left a coil unplugged and went away after it was plugged back in.
Just to test things anyone happen to be selling a known working fuel injector? I'm going to ohm the left bank injectors tonight and maybe the right but removing the UIM is not on top of the list for tonight. I miss RWD cars for the engine mounting. If I'm reading the FSM right then the fuel injectors being faulty wouldn't trigger a CEL because they're not monitored? It is kind of hard to tell between thick and thin lines in that thing, unless they're all the thin version.
I popped a can of berryman's into the tank today after filling with 93 from Chevron. I'm going to run through two tanks using berryman's before taking another crack at it. The car certainly accelerates smoother with the new fuel filter but there is that shaking/noise issue. It really seems to only happen when I'm at lower speeds/lower rpms. I haven't been on the highway today but at 45 mph the shaking isn't as pronounced. I did play with the gears to try and help diagnosis today at a red light. When I was in drive and braked it would shake pretty badly but when I put it into neutral it wouldn't shake near as bad but at the same time going into neutral the RPMs went up. When I was in drive they're about 650 rpm sans acceleration at a red light. Same thing for drive as is reverse, rpms lower to 650-ish and shakes the car. I did notice when RPMs were up and I was accelerating when I'd let off the accelerator the shaking would calm down as if coasting caused no issue when at higher RPMs.
Oh, for information the vehicle does a harder shift (AT) from 1st to 2nd but after that its smooth sailing.
I'm still getting codes of 0201 and 0304. I've triple checked all of the ignition coil packs to make sure the plugs are securely connected. I haven't disconnected anything else except the coils -> 21 is the signal circuit. It popped up the last time I left a coil unplugged and went away after it was plugged back in.
Just to test things anyone happen to be selling a known working fuel injector? I'm going to ohm the left bank injectors tonight and maybe the right but removing the UIM is not on top of the list for tonight. I miss RWD cars for the engine mounting. If I'm reading the FSM right then the fuel injectors being faulty wouldn't trigger a CEL because they're not monitored? It is kind of hard to tell between thick and thin lines in that thing, unless they're all the thin version.
Last edited by bushd; 07-09-2009 at 12:16 PM.
#4145
I'm probably going to open an individual thread on my issue. I've switched around the rest of the coil packs and nothing happened so it doesn't appear to be a bad ignition coil pack (Ohming was all good). Still having an issue though it seems like there may be an issue in the IACV or TB because something right around those two is making quite a bit of noise that coincides (noise pattern) with the engine noise. I just grabbed MAF and carb cleaner so I can start on cleaning that side after I get home from univ. tonight.
I popped a can of berryman's into the tank today after filling with 93 from Chevron. I'm going to run through two tanks using berryman's before taking another crack at it. The car certainly accelerates smoother with the new fuel filter but there is that shaking/noise issue. It really seems to only happen when I'm at lower speeds/lower rpms. I haven't been on the highway today but at 45 mph the shaking isn't as pronounced. I did play with the gears to try and help diagnosis today at a red light. When I was in drive and braked it would shake pretty badly but when I put it into neutral it wouldn't shake near as bad but at the same time going into neutral the RPMs went up. When I was in drive they're about 650 rpm sans acceleration at a red light. Same thing for drive as is reverse, rpms lower to 650-ish and shakes the car. I did notice when RPMs were up and I was accelerating when I'd let off the accelerator the shaking would calm down as if coasting caused no issue when at higher RPMs.
Oh, for information the vehicle does a harder shift (AT) from 1st to 2nd but after that its smooth sailing.
I'm still getting codes of 0201 and 0304. I've triple checked all of the ignition coil packs to make sure the plugs are securely connected. I haven't disconnected anything else except the coils -> 21 is the signal circuit. It popped up the last time I left a coil unplugged and went away after it was plugged back in.
Just to test things anyone happen to be selling a known working fuel injector?
I popped a can of berryman's into the tank today after filling with 93 from Chevron. I'm going to run through two tanks using berryman's before taking another crack at it. The car certainly accelerates smoother with the new fuel filter but there is that shaking/noise issue. It really seems to only happen when I'm at lower speeds/lower rpms. I haven't been on the highway today but at 45 mph the shaking isn't as pronounced. I did play with the gears to try and help diagnosis today at a red light. When I was in drive and braked it would shake pretty badly but when I put it into neutral it wouldn't shake near as bad but at the same time going into neutral the RPMs went up. When I was in drive they're about 650 rpm sans acceleration at a red light. Same thing for drive as is reverse, rpms lower to 650-ish and shakes the car. I did notice when RPMs were up and I was accelerating when I'd let off the accelerator the shaking would calm down as if coasting caused no issue when at higher RPMs.
Oh, for information the vehicle does a harder shift (AT) from 1st to 2nd but after that its smooth sailing.
I'm still getting codes of 0201 and 0304. I've triple checked all of the ignition coil packs to make sure the plugs are securely connected. I haven't disconnected anything else except the coils -> 21 is the signal circuit. It popped up the last time I left a coil unplugged and went away after it was plugged back in.
Just to test things anyone happen to be selling a known working fuel injector?
CPS and Ignition can make your car do weird things, i think that is ur source
The 0304 is knock sensor which is prob going off from the problem your describing. Did anything happen before the prob start? Drive thru huge puddle, air filter in place?
#4146
Knock sensor is dead or a ghost so I won't be replacing that until later.
I haven't checked the CPS yet. I may put the old two front coils back in to see if 0201 goes away. If it does then it's still the coils causing that issue. If not I'll take a look at the CPS.
No problems. I purchase clean car with same-day inspection from individual. Next day I go to a closed tax office then to autozone and filled the tank up plus decarbonizer and added Slick 50 to oil. After this move issues started. Literally, as I was leaving the autozone it started the issue. I've never heard of a decarbonizer causing injectors to gum up or anything else for that matter. If you're not familiar with decarbonizer some places call it guaranteed-to-pass, in TX it's behind the counter out of sight for some reason, by RXP. Good old berryman's B12 in the tank as of this morning.
There is an exhaust leak after the cat but what time I've spent down there I didn't notice any dents. Muffler has a rip/corrosion down its side and needs replacing.
I swear the last owner rubbed magic sell-me powder on that car and it just wore off a day later.
I haven't checked the CPS yet. I may put the old two front coils back in to see if 0201 goes away. If it does then it's still the coils causing that issue. If not I'll take a look at the CPS.
No problems. I purchase clean car with same-day inspection from individual. Next day I go to a closed tax office then to autozone and filled the tank up plus decarbonizer and added Slick 50 to oil. After this move issues started. Literally, as I was leaving the autozone it started the issue. I've never heard of a decarbonizer causing injectors to gum up or anything else for that matter. If you're not familiar with decarbonizer some places call it guaranteed-to-pass, in TX it's behind the counter out of sight for some reason, by RXP. Good old berryman's B12 in the tank as of this morning.
There is an exhaust leak after the cat but what time I've spent down there I didn't notice any dents. Muffler has a rip/corrosion down its side and needs replacing.
I swear the last owner rubbed magic sell-me powder on that car and it just wore off a day later.
Last edited by bushd; 07-09-2009 at 12:28 PM.
#4147
cold start problem oddity
95 Max (114k miles)
Only in the mornings, or after the car has sat for a long time during the day:
I turn the key to crank it, the engine turns over, seems to fire off, I let the key go, and it dies.
I let it sit for a sec, hear a click, turn the key, cranks, let key go and it stays running.
Only seems to do it when car has sat for a while.
I thought it might be the ignition switch, but someone suggested it might be coolant temperature sensor.
Any clue?
And if it's either one of these, whats the best way to test them?
Only in the mornings, or after the car has sat for a long time during the day:
I turn the key to crank it, the engine turns over, seems to fire off, I let the key go, and it dies.
I let it sit for a sec, hear a click, turn the key, cranks, let key go and it stays running.
Only seems to do it when car has sat for a while.
I thought it might be the ignition switch, but someone suggested it might be coolant temperature sensor.
Any clue?
And if it's either one of these, whats the best way to test them?
#4148
95 Max (114k miles)
Only in the mornings, or after the car has sat for a long time during the day:
I turn the key to crank it, the engine turns over, seems to fire off, I let the key go, and it dies.
I let it sit for a sec, hear a click, turn the key, cranks, let key go and it stays running.
Only seems to do it when car has sat for a while.
I thought it might be the ignition switch, but someone suggested it might be coolant temperature sensor.
Any clue?
And if it's either one of these, whats the best way to test them?
Only in the mornings, or after the car has sat for a long time during the day:
I turn the key to crank it, the engine turns over, seems to fire off, I let the key go, and it dies.
I let it sit for a sec, hear a click, turn the key, cranks, let key go and it stays running.
Only seems to do it when car has sat for a while.
I thought it might be the ignition switch, but someone suggested it might be coolant temperature sensor.
Any clue?
And if it's either one of these, whats the best way to test them?
Where is the 'click' coming from?
If it was the ECTS, likely the engine would run for a few seconds, sputter, and die.
So...codes?
Just to test things anyone happen to be selling a known working fuel injector? I'm going to ohm the left bank injectors tonight and maybe the right but removing the UIM is not on top of the list for tonight. I miss RWD cars for the engine mounting. If I'm reading the FSM right then the fuel injectors being faulty wouldn't trigger a CEL because they're not monitored? It is kind of hard to tell between thick and thin lines in that thing, unless they're all the thin version.
And no, there are no injector codes.
#4150
I don't know if it's the IACV resetting it's position or what.
Just happens on a cold start it seems. This morning, it was about 76 degrees, and i tried to crank it 4 times, before it finally started.
It's like the engine stumbles and cuts off.
The rest of the time, it cranks right up.
#4152
Seriously, with something that vague it could be almost anything on that side.
If it really is that loose, you shouldn't be driving it anyway...
#4153
no i going to take the wheel out try to see if i can find the problem i'm afraid to drive this car now.
#4154
Here is a video of the engine and exhaust. Unfortunately the engine wasn't really shaking so bad and I think the camera has a digital stabilizing setup so it was correcting for the shake.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4IYhVmOg7Zw
I'd love to get a video with it in bad shakes but my engine is camera shy.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4IYhVmOg7Zw
I'd love to get a video with it in bad shakes but my engine is camera shy.
#4155
#4156
so when you say revolution sensor, thats where the rpms are read from? basically im asking if its a big issue that its not with its parent connector.
#4157
#4158
so what issues would occur (if any) due to this being disconnected. i only ask cuz ive been having trans problems and if it was caused by something this simple ill be so irritated!
#4159
I'm new to driving and I pretty much know nothing but how to operate a car. Maximas caught my attention and I've done some research to know that I want to get a 4th generation, my question is;
Are Maximas a good first car, and if so, what is the difference from 95-99? Also, I heard Altimas are up to par with Maximas, is that true in all generations?
Are Maximas a good first car, and if so, what is the difference from 95-99? Also, I heard Altimas are up to par with Maximas, is that true in all generations?
#4160
I'm new to driving and I pretty much know nothing but how to operate a car. Maximas caught my attention and I've done some research to know that I want to get a 4th generation, my question is;
Are Maximas a good first car, and if so, what is the difference from 95-99? Also, I heard Altimas are up to par with Maximas, is that true in all generations?
Are Maximas a good first car, and if so, what is the difference from 95-99? Also, I heard Altimas are up to par with Maximas, is that true in all generations?
Altimas are more of an econobox (in this year range). Once you start getting '02 and up where the Altima gets the 3.5, then it becomes a contender.
For year to year differences, read the stickies: http://forums.maxima.org/706590-post3.html