The opposite of how it was disassembled?? Going to need more info (or better, pictures) than that bud, as the mirrors are generally not taken apart.

 

Apparently it is, for everyone but us

As The Wizard said...how did you take it apart? Exactly what has been removed from it?

 

this should be pmohr and The Wizard Q&A thread...


Question, I'm no longer a FT employee but I wanna damn paint job and a good one at that. There are a bunch of body shops round and i'm plannin on gettin the paint and doin prep work myself. What kinda paint should I get PPG, Dupont, something better??

Also how important is weather when doing prep work such as humididty while priming?

 

Personally I'd call up some local collision repair centers and see what types of paint they prefer.

The more humid, the longer the dry time, IIRC.

 

I ohmed everything sans the bnib from autozone and the only off portion I could find was a rear at 0.5 mohm low. I replaced that one and cranked it up to the car shaking still. About to ohm the autozone one. All of the front three are 'working' coils with one of them bnib from autozone while the rear three only have one from a working setup prior to install. The other two ohmed fine. I did notice on the rear, cylinder 2, one of the screws won't go in firm to the coil body but will fit snug as if there is a threading issue.

About to clean out TB, EGR, etc and hope that is the cause.

 

Bingo on the dry time recollection.

I just threw a cel, which was finally a good one.

0607-> Cylinder 2 misfire
KS
0201-> one of the coils isn't connected correctly, probably 2

 

I just replaced cylinder 2 with the old cylinder 2 coil and no misfire code hitting. Why would misfire codes hit for cylinder 2 but not elsewhere? It also hit with a signal circuit code as well so that makes me think all of the coilpacks are fine and it may be something else.

Out of the muffler is the shake just like the engine in terms of sound, put put put in the same times as the vibrations of the engine instead of a constant hum.

What if it isn't a misfire but a clogged injector? Less fuel getting into chamber that would offbalance the firing sequence, causing shaking?

Went to listen to fuel injectors and cel lit up this time - 0201 and 0304 again. I'm not sure where the 21 is coming from because everything is connected and a cylinder would be throwing a misfire code certainly if it wasn't connected.

 

Alright, well I have a 96 I30 and I'm aware this isn't the I30 forum but I have some sort of starting problem. When it's hot out and the interior of the car is hot my car won't start. There is no turning over or any response when the key won't turn any longer. I've tried doing a search but I've come across nothing. So does anyone know why my car won't start?

 

let the search lead you young skywalker...

http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...s-hot-out.html

 

I thought I searched well enough, I was wrong. Thanks again.

 

Fuel filter replaced - that old one was filthy fuel coming out the bottom intake nozzle after I finally got it off. The father thinks it may be a valve thats not moving properly and the cam is coming around and hiting it. That's going to be an all day job on this car and I thought the fuel filter was a pita.

I think I'm going to take it to some places to see what they think and try to get myself a fuel injector to see if that helps the problem by playing pin the tail on the potentially dead injector.

I'll try and get a movie with sound tomorrow if I can so that this issue is easier to diagnose.

 

WEIRD RADIO PROBLEM

i had all stock bose system in my car and it worked fine, but i have subs i want to put in with a new head unit. Well i put the head unit in, now, the radio comes on and everything but there is absolutly no sound. i have the right adapters and everything is wired right. but i dont know what the black and white wire is if it even has a use, so can anyone help me with this problem

 

so i dropped my tranny, no struggles or sweat. as i rolled it out from my max i noticed these wires that went into the back of it. they seem to be cut. i looked all around in my engine bay and there were no ends or leads to those wires. any ideas as too what they are supposed to go to? the pic is my profile image

 

Black and white wire...where? On the sub, on the head unit, on the adapter, somewhere completely unrelated?

So you used the adapter for an aftermarket head unit with the Bose speakers? You are aware of the unique design of the Bose speakers, correct?

If you don't know what two wires are, how you can you state that 'everything is wired right'?

You need to post a larger version, with the trouble area pointed out clearly. That image is small and overly busy.

The 'back' meaning...at the extreme rear of the rear housing (the true 'back' of the trans)? The right side of the trans (where the diff is, what you may be calling the 'back')?

 

as if you are standing with the input shaft pointing away from you the wire in question is on the top right corner. i posted a larger image in my album. the yellow arrow points to the base of the wires and the red arrow points to the end/cut end of the wires

 

That's the revolution sensor, the engine control harness side of that connector should be right with the other trans connectors for solenoids/inhibitor switch.

 

the black and white wire is from the adaptor i bought. on the back of my head unit all the wires are matched up, and in the appropriate position. and i heard about the i ohm on the bose amps, and the head-unit i have is 4-5ohms, one of the two. so is that what could be making this issue? if i eliminate the amps, would i hvae good sound?

 

So is that to mean that you didn't use the adapter for the Bose speakers?

If so, there's your problem.

 

How do you remove the front nissan badge on the bumper of 98' is it an adhesive like the back badges?

 

Front badge on bumper? You mean the one on the grill?

 

okay, i checked for a leak and there was a puddle on the rear driver's side. what needs to be replaced? hopefully my nissan dealer has this and i can get it and have it fixed tomorrow while doing my tranny

 

If you've got one on your bumper, then It's some aftermarket sticker put on there by someone.

If you mean the one in the grill, have you actually removed the grill and taken a look yet? If not, do so. It's all extremely self explanatory.

 

Well, what exactly is leaking back there?

Without knowing what part is leaking, there's no way to tell you what to replace. Could be the hard line, the flex hose, or the caliper.

 

I'm probably going to open an individual thread on my issue. I've switched around the rest of the coil packs and nothing happened so it doesn't appear to be a bad ignition coil pack (Ohming was all good). Still having an issue though it seems like there may be an issue in the IACV or TB because something right around those two is making quite a bit of noise that coincides (noise pattern) with the engine noise. I just grabbed MAF and carb cleaner so I can start on cleaning that side after I get home from univ. tonight.

I popped a can of berryman's into the tank today after filling with 93 from Chevron. I'm going to run through two tanks using berryman's before taking another crack at it. The car certainly accelerates smoother with the new fuel filter but there is that shaking/noise issue. It really seems to only happen when I'm at lower speeds/lower rpms. I haven't been on the highway today but at 45 mph the shaking isn't as pronounced. I did play with the gears to try and help diagnosis today at a red light. When I was in drive and braked it would shake pretty badly but when I put it into neutral it wouldn't shake near as bad but at the same time going into neutral the RPMs went up. When I was in drive they're about 650 rpm sans acceleration at a red light. Same thing for drive as is reverse, rpms lower to 650-ish and shakes the car. I did notice when RPMs were up and I was accelerating when I'd let off the accelerator the shaking would calm down as if coasting caused no issue when at higher RPMs.

Oh, for information the vehicle does a harder shift (AT) from 1st to 2nd but after that its smooth sailing.

I'm still getting codes of 0201 and 0304. I've triple checked all of the ignition coil packs to make sure the plugs are securely connected. I haven't disconnected anything else except the coils -> 21 is the signal circuit. It popped up the last time I left a coil unplugged and went away after it was plugged back in.

Just to test things anyone happen to be selling a known working fuel injector? I'm going to ohm the left bank injectors tonight and maybe the right but removing the UIM is not on top of the list for tonight. I miss RWD cars for the engine mounting. If I'm reading the FSM right then the fuel injectors being faulty wouldn't trigger a CEL because they're not monitored? It is kind of hard to tell between thick and thin lines in that thing, unless they're all the thin version.

 

Did u check the 0201 code? What yr r u? Thats coming up as ignition signal



CPS and Ignition can make your car do weird things, i think that is ur source

The 0304 is knock sensor which is prob going off from the problem your describing. Did anything happen before the prob start? Drive thru huge puddle, air filter in place?

 

Knock sensor is dead or a ghost so I won't be replacing that until later.

I haven't checked the CPS yet. I may put the old two front coils back in to see if 0201 goes away. If it does then it's still the coils causing that issue. If not I'll take a look at the CPS.

No problems. I purchase clean car with same-day inspection from individual. Next day I go to a closed tax office then to autozone and filled the tank up plus decarbonizer and added Slick 50 to oil. After this move issues started. Literally, as I was leaving the autozone it started the issue. I've never heard of a decarbonizer causing injectors to gum up or anything else for that matter. If you're not familiar with decarbonizer some places call it guaranteed-to-pass, in TX it's behind the counter out of sight for some reason, by RXP. Good old berryman's B12 in the tank as of this morning.

There is an exhaust leak after the cat but what time I've spent down there I didn't notice any dents. Muffler has a rip/corrosion down its side and needs replacing.

I swear the last owner rubbed magic sell-me powder on that car and it just wore off a day later.

 

95 Max (114k miles)

Only in the mornings, or after the car has sat for a long time during the day:

I turn the key to crank it, the engine turns over, seems to fire off, I let the key go, and it dies.

I let it sit for a sec, hear a click, turn the key, cranks, let key go and it stays running.

Only seems to do it when car has sat for a while.

I thought it might be the ignition switch, but someone suggested it might be coolant temperature sensor.

Any clue?

And if it's either one of these, whats the best way to test them?

 

Ignition switch is unlikely.

Where is the 'click' coming from?

If it was the ECTS, likely the engine would run for a few seconds, sputter, and die.

So...codes?

You should look at the CPS regardless of the ignition system fault.

You can ohm out the right side injectors without removing the UIM, just use the large connector to the right of the UIM, next to the passenger strut tower. But as with the coils you'll be looking for a difference in readings, not absolute, since the subharness will skew the readings.

And no, there are no injector codes.

 

Will do.

 

It's a click that you can hear after the engine stop, with key on, and you see the chk engine light have a minut flicker when whatever clicks, clicks.

I don't know if it's the IACV resetting it's position or what.

Just happens on a cold start it seems. This morning, it was about 76 degrees, and i tried to crank it 4 times, before it finally started.

It's like the engine stumbles and cuts off.

The rest of the time, it cranks right up.

 

my passenger side wheel feel so lose like its going to come off when it hits a hole or bump the front of the car shakes real bad. i think there must something broke on the passenger side. what could it be?

 

Well...have you jacked it up and looked yet?

Seriously, with something that vague it could be almost anything on that side.

If it really is that loose, you shouldn't be driving it anyway...

 

no i going to take the wheel out try to see if i can find the problem i'm afraid to drive this car now.

 

Here is a video of the engine and exhaust. Unfortunately the engine wasn't really shaking so bad and I think the camera has a digital stabilizing setup so it was correcting for the shake.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4IYhVmOg7Zw

I'd love to get a video with it in bad shakes but my engine is camera shy.

 

the adaptors i have are for the two plugs in the radio harness. So what do i need exacally for the speakers

 

so when you say revolution sensor, thats where the rpms are read from? basically im asking if its a big issue that its not with its parent connector.

 

No, engine speed is read from the CKPS'/CPS. The revolution sensor is essentially used as a secondary VSS for the TCM.

 

so what issues would occur (if any) due to this being disconnected. i only ask cuz ive been having trans problems and if it was caused by something this simple ill be so irritated!

 

I'm new to driving and I pretty much know nothing but how to operate a car. Maximas caught my attention and I've done some research to know that I want to get a 4th generation, my question is;

Are Maximas a good first car, and if so, what is the difference from 95-99? Also, I heard Altimas are up to par with Maximas, is that true in all generations?

 

They're a decent first car. Pretty reliable, low TCO, etc.

Altimas are more of an econobox (in this year range). Once you start getting '02 and up where the Altima gets the 3.5, then it becomes a contender.

For year to year differences, read the stickies: http://forums.maxima.org/706590-post3.html