Ignition switch.

http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...lots-pics.html

Try out shimming it as DBear has posted, otherwise replace it.

 

Does anyone kno if aftermarket maxima headlights will fit on my 1996 I30???

 

Once again, from the very first post of this thread:
So, did you?
http://forums.maxima.org/infiniti-i3...have-know.html
http://forums.maxima.org/infiniti-i3...-30-parts.html

...etc.

 

Does that exhaust in the youtube video sound like a solid misfire/dead cylinder? I've never heard one so soft in the exhaust before but I've only ever heard them out of older cars. Car still isn't flashing misfire yet on the self-diagnosis, which makes me curious how the ECU knows there is a misfire (the FSM is nice but the search function fails it) in a specific cylinder.

Couldn't deal with the car last night and I doubt I'll have time tonight but early tomorrow morning is fix-new-car time.

Help is great but you must have the best job pmohr, always lets you on here atleast.

 

No job ATM, that's why I'm on the org all the time.

It does sound like a slight miss from the exhaust.

The FSM covers how it identifies misfires in EC, under the misfire codes P0300-P0306). Basically it monitors engine speed, looking for any hiccups. It of course knows which cylinder was the last to fire, so it'd throw a code for that cylinder misfire.

FWIW I've never had a misfire code on my '95, even with one bank down.

 

My father wanted to ask about getting to the valves and valve springs - do you have to remove the timing chain cover? From what I can tell in order to get that cover off you'd have to first remove the engine then work from there. I say that because there are so many bolts to remove from the plate that it looks impossible without first lifting the engine out. From the FSM it says to do this but he thinks that was just so you could have access to gears for the cam(s) and would rather crank the car to turn the cams and shield for the inevitable oil spray than have to remove the timing chain cover.

This talk is a little above my league but I'm learning quite a bit from reading that FSM and wikipedia/these forums.

I've learned quite a bit from reading AJ's 30->35 swap. I think everyone likes pictures.

 

UPDATE: The click comes from the left side of the dash, sitting in the drivers seat.

Could it be a starting relay causing this pmohr?

 

The only relays specifically for the starter circuit are up in the engine bay. Since it cranks, the starting circuit isn't a very likely cause.

There are a few relays next to the fuse box, though. The only likely one there is the ignition relay:


Personally I would check for power at that relay the first time you start it (before you normally hear the click). You should have a ground on either 85 or 86, with the other being switched B+ when the ignition switch is turned to the ON position. You should also have constant power coming to pin 30.

Pin 85 or 86 (whichever isn't ground) is the one you should be looking for B+ on when you start the car.

The relay controls some ECU related circuits, though the ECU itself should be getting power just fine without the relay even being in place.

I suppose it could be the fuel pump relay as well; do you hear the fuel pump prime the first time, or only after the click?

 

I haven't paid much attention to the fuel pump priming. Does the fuel pump have that light constant 1 tone sound you get when the car is running? I did try to turn the key on and off to see if the click happened everytime; it doesn't. And when it clicks, you can see the dash check engine light blink real fast.(motor not running, just key on)

Is their a way to test the relays themselves with an ohm meter?

 

hi my names jay, i have a 99 maxima and the alarm keep making the double beep unlock noise. it's also doing some funky stuff lately, where if im holding all the window switches up, and the sun roof at the same time, the sun roof will stop 3/4's of the way closed and the car will start ticking like the factory autostart was on. really im just worried about the alarm keeps making the unlocking beeping noise ever 40 seconds about. also when i press the unlock/lock button my my key, it doesn't beep like it used to, it just flashes and locks/unlocks.

 

You should be able to hear it prime, it'll be a 3 second long sound from the back of the car. You can hear it easier if you just pop the rear seat bottom out.

You could test continuity of the coil (85 and 86), make sure 30 and 87 have no continuity, then apply power to the coil, and 30/87 should then have continuity.

You could swap out the blower motor relay with the ignition relay, to check.

 

The stock alarm makes no noise, beeping or otherwise.

Factory 'autostart'? Meaning a remote start? No such thing.

 

wires to my rear o2 are gone so I'm throwing a code. Will this make me throw an upstream sensor code too?

 

Shouldn't, no.

 

Thanks, I'm throwin an upstream and downstream. I'll just have to check both then

 

I have a 99max GLE
when im cruising at around 50mph and let off the gas entirely my engine bucks a bit.
any ideas, anyone else have the same issue?

 

Is their a way to tell if the fuel pump relay is the culprit, or the fuel pump itself?

 

If the fuel pump gets power on the first crank and doesn't operate, then it would be the pump itself. If it doesn't get power, but does after the click, next thing to check is the fuel pump relay.

 

I am looking to replace my lights with LED's and want to know what ones will require the resistors in order operate properly.

 

What lights? Headlights? Corner lights? Tail lights? Brake lights? Reverse lights? Fog lights? Dome light? Map light? Courtesy lights? Gauge cluster lights? Glove box light?

...as you can see the question is very ambiguous.

 

Over time all the exterior lights and maybe some interior, but the exterior ones are the only ones I think might require resistors, unless I'm wrong.

 

Be very specific. Tail lights? License plate lights? can't really help you without the specifics like pmohr was saying

 

I don't really see how I can be more specific about ALL lights.

I don't think anything but the turn signals will be problematic but if someone who has done their exterior lights has any advise I would like to hear it.

Edit: not including headlights

 

There you go, that's being more specific. Obviously headlights would be an issue. Assuming you have fog lights, are you intending to do those?

Have you searched? LED exterior lights has been covered. Any specific reason you want to go LED?

 

So I need a little information before I crank my car up from its intake cleaning. I have one hose left that isn't connected to anything. It doesn't look like its length actually connects to something but I wanted to verify prior to starting the engine.

The hose comes off the small metal junction(s) on the right of the engine and actually has a holder plastic clamp so that it sits right below the large hose coming off the left side of the resonator (I think that's the name, the rectangular black box that connects to the TB). This hose has no visible connection and the pictures I took prior to disassembly don't show it anywhere. Haynes doesn't show it either.

 

Can you take a picture of the area, pointing out the hose?

Does this hose have plastic couplers in it? A curved top?

The only two I can think of that are decently long are either the trans breather, or the line to the boost sensor.

 

Yeah its flat top and then curves 90 degrees straight down right before the resonator side and just sits there. I want to make sure that actually goes there and connects nothing. Uploading pics right now but it'll be a minute.

Got a look at the CV boots, looks like theyve been replaced, atleast on the drivers side. Was nice to know.

 

Sounds like the trans breather hose, but that shouldn't go through the vacuum gallery along the left side of the engine. Sure it doesn't just go straight to a nipple on the top of the trans?

 

If you have an automatic I'm fairly certain the design of the automatic tranny allows for an "engine braking sensation". I'm pretty sure I read that in the FSM. If someone knows more about this feel free to correct me if I'm wrong.

 

These are big images so I didn't post the image directly. Palm Pre takes killer photos.

http://img268.imageshack.us/img268/6949/cimg0107l.jpg

My finger is on the same tube in the second photo below.

http://img43.imageshack.us/img43/2183/cimg0110.jpg

 

As far as I can tell, it's just the trans breather. It'll be larger than the vacuum hoses, and much thicker.

Have you followed it back down yet? It shouldn't go into the vacuum gallery.

 

Well, it was the only hose sitting there. I was just curious if there is actually a hose that sits there with no end connection. I'm not used to seeing that. Everything else has been connected and clamped and this just threw me off.

 

Indeed, it just sits out in the open.

 

Thanks, time to crank it up.

So I cranked up the car and it worked but still having the same issues of a misfire and a more pronounced clicking. I didn't ohm the IACV but eithre it or something below it is making some odd clicking noises. I think that's the EGR that sits right below it, correct? The clicking happens when in park, or any gear, but it is hard to pinpoint without a stethascope. The clicking is in time with the misfire noise coming out of the exhaust and the rumble of the engine. It could just be an issue in cylinder 5 and would need compression tests completed in terms of vacinity of the noise/next to IACV.

Going to ohm the right bank injectors and IACV tomorrow because I'm dead tired now. Would like to run a compression test on each cylinder but access to the tool for that is temporarily suspended.

No CEL lit yet. That EGR code I thew the other day was valid - that guide tube was clogged horridly.

If it is a misfire due to injectors, coils, plug, etc if I unplug the connection to the coil and see no change in RPMs, or not a dramatic change, then that signals the misfire is from said cylinder, correct? Safe to be unplugging coil packs while engine is running?

 

What's up gentleman, I'll get right to it. I just bought a '96 Max SE (love it by the way), long story short it over-heated, when I went to roll it out of the way from the gas pump, the clutch went straight to the floor, no pressure at all. It would pump back up, but after a couple minutes would go back down again. When the car had completly cooled it has pressure and is fine now. My question is: Does the car overheating have anything to do with the clutch acting crazy?? Is there some sort of protect valve??

I'm at a loss

 

Indeed, if you disable the coil or injector on a cylinder and there's no change to how it runs, that cylinder is suspect. Could be injector, plug, coil, wiring, ECU, or physical damage to the cylinder wall, valves, etc.

No, overheating the engine shouldn't affect how the clutch hydraulics function.

 

Haha most exterior and interior lights are bulbs unless you have aftermarket lights with LEDs instead of bulbs.

Your lights both interior and exterior should be made up of various bulbs like these:

Turn signals - 1156 Bulbs
Corner lights - 1157 (Can be modded to be brighter)
Outer tail lights - 1157

And so on and so forth it should be in the manual but a funky thing is that the manual does NOT list the bulb for the map light I had to go and guesstimate the bulb to use and after two packages I found the right bulb to use. I don't have the number or the package but I can take a picture of the bulb if anyone needs it LOL

 

I just recently had my passenger fog light go out. I wanted to know if I could just replace the bulb or do I need to get the whole light?
Thanks in advance for your assistance.

 

You replace the bulb

 

my brake light came on last week, and my brake fluid was low. after topping it off, the same thing happened 2-3 days later. so i found the leak, and it was coming from the rear driver's side. it is confirmed to be the caliper that's leaking. i purchased a low-mileage caliper from a friend's parts car. his car was a 98, i have a 97. i went today to get the caliper changed, and it wouldn't fit on my car. my old caliper lined up perfectly with the 2 bolts, but the 'new' one would not. when my mechanic lined up the caliper to one of the bolts, the other bolt wouldn't reach. why is that?
i got the caliper for 20 bucks, i don't want to spend $90 on a new one