NOOBIES: "I AM NEW HERE BUT HAVE A QUESTION" thread. Read FIRST post BEFORE posting!
#121
Ignition Coil Boots?
Can I replace the ignition coil connection boots (http://www.autopartsauthority.com/pa...1&make_code=NI) or do I have to replace the entire ignition coil? I was told by a mechanic that only the boots need to be changed and not the entire coil. Any clarification greatly appreciated.
Thanks!
Thanks!
#122
Hey.....
Been searchin the forum for a while now to find this answer but i needed to know...
i got into a minor car accident over a month ago, and now my front bumper is a little misaligned. the notch that was under the headlight is now out and i was wondering what where the steps to removing the bumper and putting back on correctly so that everything lines back up again? i didnt just want to start tryin to figure it out and end up lookin like a fool(dont have alot of time for trial and error at the moment and dotn want to go to a shop) so i would rather ask first.. THANKS
Been searchin the forum for a while now to find this answer but i needed to know...
i got into a minor car accident over a month ago, and now my front bumper is a little misaligned. the notch that was under the headlight is now out and i was wondering what where the steps to removing the bumper and putting back on correctly so that everything lines back up again? i didnt just want to start tryin to figure it out and end up lookin like a fool(dont have alot of time for trial and error at the moment and dotn want to go to a shop) so i would rather ask first.. THANKS
#123
Originally Posted by DomoMaxima98
Hey.....
Been searchin the forum for a while now to find this answer but i needed to know...
i got into a minor car accident over a month ago, and now my front bumper is a little misaligned. the notch that was under the headlight is now out and i was wondering what where the steps to removing the bumper and putting back on correctly so that everything lines back up again? i didnt just want to start tryin to figure it out and end up lookin like a fool(dont have alot of time for trial and error at the moment and dotn want to go to a shop) so i would rather ask first.. THANKS
Been searchin the forum for a while now to find this answer but i needed to know...
i got into a minor car accident over a month ago, and now my front bumper is a little misaligned. the notch that was under the headlight is now out and i was wondering what where the steps to removing the bumper and putting back on correctly so that everything lines back up again? i didnt just want to start tryin to figure it out and end up lookin like a fool(dont have alot of time for trial and error at the moment and dotn want to go to a shop) so i would rather ask first.. THANKS
#124
^^ Thanks... don't want a new one right now just wanna make the one i have look good for now.. it has some marks on it from the accident but ima just do some research and wait before i start doing any modifications.. and when i do it will be engine mods first...
i know they sell them at Autozone so ima just go and pick up a copy.. i was lookin to see if anyone could take me thru it step by step for free tho lol...
i know they sell them at Autozone so ima just go and pick up a copy.. i was lookin to see if anyone could take me thru it step by step for free tho lol...
#125
Follow up question to post #121
When I drive the car it feels fine, but when I stop and accelerate it feels like the car is missing. Is this related to the ignition coils? I changed two coils last summer.
Thanks for any help / advice!
When I drive the car it feels fine, but when I stop and accelerate it feels like the car is missing. Is this related to the ignition coils? I changed two coils last summer.
Thanks for any help / advice!
#126
Originally Posted by mms
Follow up question to post #121
When I drive the car it feels fine, but when I stop and accelerate it feels like the car is missing. Is this related to the ignition coils? I changed two coils last summer.
Thanks for any help / advice!
When I drive the car it feels fine, but when I stop and accelerate it feels like the car is missing. Is this related to the ignition coils? I changed two coils last summer.
Thanks for any help / advice!
#127
Originally Posted by dgeesaman
Did the car ever have the Bose system at any point?
Dave
Dave
I fixed the worst of the sound problem with a bit of tuning in the head unit. Still not overly impressed with the bass response, but at least they don't sound like they are going to explode.
Still not sure if replacing the head unit would help, or if I should go full on with an amp and sub.
#128
Originally Posted by Byronape
Ok, I have an audio problem.
When I picked up my Max, it had a Pioneer basic style head unit already installed. I recently installed a set of Pioneer 4-ways in the doors and rear deck.
Here's my problem. I know that I won't ever get great bass out of the 4-ways, but when ever I adjust the sound so that I get any, the speakers sound like they are about to blow. I turn down the bass and the mids and highs sound great. When I set everything to reasonable levels, the bass still sounds like crap.
Would getting a better head unit improve things? I know that I won't get great bass without an amp and sub, but my last two cars had decent bass and clear sound without an amp or sub. I'm not looking to rattle the glass out, just enough to enjoy my music.
When I picked up my Max, it had a Pioneer basic style head unit already installed. I recently installed a set of Pioneer 4-ways in the doors and rear deck.
Here's my problem. I know that I won't ever get great bass out of the 4-ways, but when ever I adjust the sound so that I get any, the speakers sound like they are about to blow. I turn down the bass and the mids and highs sound great. When I set everything to reasonable levels, the bass still sounds like crap.
Would getting a better head unit improve things? I know that I won't get great bass without an amp and sub, but my last two cars had decent bass and clear sound without an amp or sub. I'm not looking to rattle the glass out, just enough to enjoy my music.
#131
recently my clutch pedal has become very easy to depress n there is alot of slack i guess u could say before the clutch is engaged, wat would you say this is and if the clutch is still being engaged and disengaged should i be concerned
#132
I own a '96 Max and I'm having trouble opening my trunk, the valet switch isn't turned on, the only way I can open it is if I have someone pull and hold the trunk lever on the floor on the drivers side while someone else pulls up on the trunk. Could my trunk be too heavy because of the spoiler? It's a stock spoiler.
#134
Originally Posted by PatD14
I own a '96 Max and I'm having trouble opening my trunk, the valet switch isn't turned on, the only way I can open it is if I have someone pull and hold the trunk lever on the floor on the drivers side while someone else pulls up on the trunk. Could my trunk be too heavy because of the spoiler? It's a stock spoiler.
#135
i just remembered, when i had my trunk problems while trying to figure out / fix the problem i accidentally switched the safety switch inside the trunk, so i would hear the latch release, but the trunk would not open -- oh boy that took a while to figure out
#136
was having problems with my clutch and i cheked my fluid which was empty so i filled it . I still have alot of play in my pedal tho, should there be any play nin the pedal or should the clutch grab right when the pedal is only slightly depressed????
#139
Originally Posted by redright9
Thanks for letting us "newbies" have a chance. My question is what have people done with the automatic shifter in there maxima? The stock one, well, is pretty boring. What have people done?
#140
Heres a new question, I've decided to do a vq35 swap and have been combing through the threads to get all the general info. I can. One question still stands out that I can not find an answer to. If you are planning this swap, wanting to t/c or s/c it and put forged heads and rods in should you also replace the crank with a forged one? Also with this setup would it be benefical to stick with the vq30 ecu or the vq35 for tuning purposes? Thanks in advance for your help
#141
Originally Posted by Cdg2125
Different shift **** or lower it. I changed mine but guys give crap cause they think I want to look like a manual. I do not want to look like a 5spd, just that the stock auto shifter is boring. Here's what i did with it:
Looks VERY nice! What did you do with the overdrive button? and the shifter interlock button?
#143
I'm new here so I can't post this in its own thread, but...
I'm looking at a used 1995 Maxima (GXE, I believe) with 95K miles on it for $2999. It has an automatic transmission. What are some things that I should look for when inspecting the car? Are there any common trouble areas or problems that I should look for?
Al
I'm looking at a used 1995 Maxima (GXE, I believe) with 95K miles on it for $2999. It has an automatic transmission. What are some things that I should look for when inspecting the car? Are there any common trouble areas or problems that I should look for?
Al
#144
Originally Posted by atomheartmother
I'm new here so I can't post this in its own thread, but...
I'm looking at a used 1995 Maxima (GXE, I believe) with 95K miles on it for $2999. What are some things that I should look for when inspecting the car? Are there any common trouble areas or problems that I should look for?
I'm looking at a used 1995 Maxima (GXE, I believe) with 95K miles on it for $2999. What are some things that I should look for when inspecting the car? Are there any common trouble areas or problems that I should look for?
rear brake noises are very common for all the 4th gen's, I personally have replaced the rear calipers, rotors, pads, all the e-brake cables to get rid rear brake noise. The e-brake cables on these years have a tendency to lock up and cause caliper problems like sticking and rusting. Also check to see is the check engine light is on, sometimes the knock sensors go bad and set it off. Neither of these problems are that expensive or hard to fix.
#145
Originally Posted by 99 Max-D
rear brake noises are very common for all the 4th gen's, I personally have replaced the rear calipers, rotors, pads, all the e-brake cables to get rid rear brake noise. The e-brake cables on these years have a tendency to lock up and cause caliper problems like sticking and rusting. Also check to see is the check engine light is on, sometimes the knock sensors go bad and set it off. Neither of these problems are that expensive or hard to fix.
Also, would it be advisable to have the car inspected by a mechanic prior to purchase (assuming it test drives fine without any apparent problems)?
#146
Originally Posted by atomheartmother
How much do you think any of those repairs would cost? Thankfully, this lot gives a 30 day/1000 mile warranty. So if anything is bad, they'll fix it, I reckon.
Also, would it be advisable to have the car inspected by a mechanic prior to purchase (assuming it test drives fine without any apparent problems)?
Also, would it be advisable to have the car inspected by a mechanic prior to purchase (assuming it test drives fine without any apparent problems)?
#147
Originally Posted by 99 Max-D
rear brake noises are very common for all the 4th gen's, I personally have replaced the rear calipers, rotors, pads, all the e-brake cables to get rid rear brake noise. The e-brake cables on these years have a tendency to lock up and cause caliper problems like sticking and rusting. Also check to see is the check engine light is on, sometimes the knock sensors go bad and set it off. Neither of these problems are that expensive or hard to fix.
No you do not need to take of the IM to replace the knock sensor. That's bull. Dealers and mechanics go by that because the book says so. Waste of time. Everybody on here who has done it has had the IM on. You just need to get in there.
Having a mechanic would be nice but I'm not sure if you want to pay the mechanic each time you want a car inspected. Inspect the car yourself, make sure it feels good and the engine feels good. If it's a rough ride then be careful.
#148
http://consumerguideauto.howstuffwor...n-maxima-2.htm
Those reviews are on all maxima 4th gen's and they all say the same thing about brake noise, just because your's doesn't doesn't mean that its not a common problem. The question was asked if there were common problems with the car and that is one, I never said he had to replace the rear brakes, I said to look for that problem. Also I HAVE replaced my knock sensor and I had to take the IM off, just because you found a way around it doesn't mean it's bull. The repair manuals, haynes and the fsm both tell you to take it off. Check out the site and the reviews before you go all jumping down my neck about rear brakes, he asked for common problems and I gave it to him, no need to be hostile.
Those reviews are on all maxima 4th gen's and they all say the same thing about brake noise, just because your's doesn't doesn't mean that its not a common problem. The question was asked if there were common problems with the car and that is one, I never said he had to replace the rear brakes, I said to look for that problem. Also I HAVE replaced my knock sensor and I had to take the IM off, just because you found a way around it doesn't mean it's bull. The repair manuals, haynes and the fsm both tell you to take it off. Check out the site and the reviews before you go all jumping down my neck about rear brakes, he asked for common problems and I gave it to him, no need to be hostile.
#149
Originally Posted by 99 Max-D
http://consumerguideauto.howstuffwor...n-maxima-2.htm
Those reviews are on all maxima 4th gen's and they all say the same thing about brake noise, just because your's doesn't doesn't mean that its not a common problem. The question was asked if there were common problems with the car and that is one, I never said he had to replace the rear brakes, I said to look for that problem. Also I HAVE replaced my knock sensor and I had to take the IM off, just because you found a way around it doesn't mean it's bull. The repair manuals, haynes and the fsm both tell you to take it off. Check out the site and the reviews before you go all jumping down my neck about rear brakes, he asked for common problems and I gave it to him, no need to be hostile.
Those reviews are on all maxima 4th gen's and they all say the same thing about brake noise, just because your's doesn't doesn't mean that its not a common problem. The question was asked if there were common problems with the car and that is one, I never said he had to replace the rear brakes, I said to look for that problem. Also I HAVE replaced my knock sensor and I had to take the IM off, just because you found a way around it doesn't mean it's bull. The repair manuals, haynes and the fsm both tell you to take it off. Check out the site and the reviews before you go all jumping down my neck about rear brakes, he asked for common problems and I gave it to him, no need to be hostile.
#150
Cool, I agree that he doesn't need to screw with them just check them out. And I wish I would have known how to take out the KS without having to take the IM off, that was a big pain. anyway I hope it works out for him. ***sidenote*** any tips on post #140???
#151
Originally Posted by 99 Max-D
Heres a new question, I've decided to do a vq35 swap and have been combing through the threads to get all the general info. I can. One question still stands out that I can not find an answer to. If you are planning this swap, wanting to t/c or s/c it and put forged heads and rods in should you also replace the crank with a forged one? Also with this setup would it be benefical to stick with the vq30 ecu or the vq35 for tuning purposes? Thanks in advance for your help
The end question is what are your ultimate HP goals?
#152
Originally Posted by NmexMAX
I've never heard of forged heads. The VQ30/VQ35 already have forged connecting rods
The end question is what are your ultimate HP goals?
The end question is what are your ultimate HP goals?
4th so there is my dilemma. I want the vq35 but i know it won't clip up .... any suggestions. Oh and the stock crank should be ok for that amount of power right???
#153
How is the VQ35 more 'tunable'?
It has the option of CVTC if that's what you meant.
An EMU should work just fine with either ECU. Stock crank should be fine with that amount of power.
Spend more time in here, seems like you haven't put enough time into researching it
http://forums.maxima.org/forumdisplay.php?f=53
It has the option of CVTC if that's what you meant.
An EMU should work just fine with either ECU. Stock crank should be fine with that amount of power.
Spend more time in here, seems like you haven't put enough time into researching it
http://forums.maxima.org/forumdisplay.php?f=53
#154
using bose amps
this might be a dumb question, but, is there any way to use the bose amps with aftermarket speakers (and an aftermarket hu)? it seems like you could save money and time by using them instead of buying an aftermarket amp and rewiring everything. if there is another thread on this please let me know.
#155
Originally Posted by mge2790
this might be a dumb question, but, is there any way to use the bose amps with aftermarket speakers (and an aftermarket hu)? it seems like you could save money and time by using them instead of buying an aftermarket amp and rewiring everything. if there is another thread on this please let me know.
#156
Mod her. Ate her.
Thread Starter
iTrader: (19)
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Martinsburg, WV
Posts: 9,827
Originally Posted by mge2790
this might be a dumb question, but, is there any way to use the bose amps with aftermarket speakers (and an aftermarket hu)? it seems like you could save money and time by using them instead of buying an aftermarket amp and rewiring everything. if there is another thread on this please let me know.
It is much better to replace the speakers and the HU with aftermarket and to bypass the Bose amps altoghether.
#157
Originally Posted by 99 Max-D
I know arias has a set of forged pistons for them along with JE, and believe it or not there is a 4.3 strocker kit (that'll cost about $8,000) all made for vq35. I did not know those stock motors came with forged rods that's awesome. My ultimate HP goals are 400+ w/o nitrious. I plan to put a t/c in that can handle up to 15 psi, I don't want to go over that because I don't want to chew through head gaskets. The forged bottom end will allow for this, I just don't know what ECU I want to put in, the old vq30 for ease of installation or the vq35 for tunability. I want to go with the vq35 ecu but i've heard horror stories with the 5th gens and not many people have done a 6th gen into a
4th so there is my dilemma. I want the vq35 but i know it won't clip up .... any suggestions. Oh and the stock crank should be ok for that amount of power right???
4th so there is my dilemma. I want the vq35 but i know it won't clip up .... any suggestions. Oh and the stock crank should be ok for that amount of power right???
I wish I could help but I'd like to see it when you get into it.
Dave
#158
Originally Posted by NmexMAX
How is the VQ35 more 'tunable'?
It has the option of CVTC if that's what you meant.
An EMU should work just fine with either ECU. Stock crank should be fine with that amount of power.
Spend more time in here, seems like you haven't put enough time into researching it
http://forums.maxima.org/forumdisplay.php?f=53
It has the option of CVTC if that's what you meant.
An EMU should work just fine with either ECU. Stock crank should be fine with that amount of power.
Spend more time in here, seems like you haven't put enough time into researching it
http://forums.maxima.org/forumdisplay.php?f=53
#159
Originally Posted by dgeesaman
I also live in Etters.
I wish I could help but I'd like to see it when you get into it.
Dave
I wish I could help but I'd like to see it when you get into it.
Dave