I was looking at a bunch of posts and im kinda confused because there was no definitive answer but, my question is; im about to put maxspeeds on my KYB AGX's and not to shure which bumpstops to use. From my understanding if using OEM they need to be cut. Or i could get ones for a mita and mustang and they dont have to be cut? Is this corect? Thanks

 

When installing a High Flow Cat, is there anything special that needs to be done with the rear 02 sensor. Can it just be deleted or do i need to make an after-cat bung for it.

Thanks

 

You could use an O2 simulator with the rear O2 sensor and not have to install it back into the exhaust system, or make an after-cat bung for it like you stated. If you delete it, you'll get a CEL.

 

I have done a fairly exhaustive internet search including a google search of maxima.org and I have not been able to locate a photo of the fuse box diagram on the backside of the fuse panel cover that is located under the dash nor have I been able to find the fuse number for the power mirrors, which are not working and are why I am doing this search. When I bought the car from the original owner the panel cover was missing. If someone could direct me to where the diagram can be found or upload a photo of one that would be very helpful. The car is a '98 SE and does not have the winter package. Having a diagram or photo will save me the time and effort to hunt through a junkyard or purchase it from a Nissan dealer. Thanks in advance.

 

I typed in 'fuse panel cover' in the Search box…..

http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...over-gone.html


http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...fuse-list.html

 

What do you guys recommend as far as intake systems go? I know this has to be a sticky thread somewhere, but haven't found it.
Thanks!!

 

stock intake with k&n filter - just like you have it.

 

for the past couple of months i've been riding on the 18" murano wheels. this was up until 2 weeks ago, when i was in an accident that affected the wheels, dented the oil pan, and scraped the bumper. i got 1 flat tire, and 2 of the rims were curbed very bad.
right now, i'm riding on the stocks. i hate the look of 15 inchers and the thick tires. i have 4 continental high performance all season 235-40-18 tires that i only used for about a month. so now i'm looking to replace the wheels. a set that i like is 27.3 pounds per wheel. is that too heavy? i'm only considering 18s, so is there a certain weight limit that i should consider?

 

i just took off my 17's for the winter. they are konig monsoon and weigh 26lbs each...won't put them on again because the mileage i was getting sucked. wheel weight takes away a bit of hp and mpg - save up and get some lightweight wheels with up to 225 wide tires to reduce some surface friction.

 

You sure didn't try too hard. See post #12
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...e-updated.html

That'll work. OEM filter works pretty well too.

 

27.3 lbs are boat anchors and will affect your acceleration, braking, and handling. Keep looking.

18" rims should ideally not weigh more than 18lbs. 20lbs is the most I would go for. For reference my 17" rims weigh in at 16 lbs +/-.

 

i need some help installing my fog lights on my 97 max bought them off ebay(fog lights).... it has the plugs so i can connect the lights but they dont turn on when i turn the light switch on and it doesnt have that second switch for the fogs........... any help?

 

bulbs/relay/fuse ok?

 

bulbs new fuse ok checked but not to sure what (relay) is?

 

i've marked 3 relay boxes. one of them has the FOG relay (which is like a fuse). it'll be signed on the top cover of the box which one it is - check it.

 

I'm debating whether or not to go with to 00vi. My car is mostly stock aside from a Y-pipe and a hacked air box. I'd like the added power of the 00vi but not at the cost of constantly having a CEL on or crappy gas mileage or ending up with a poorly running car. My question is for those who have successfully installed an 00vi:

-Between USIM and the 00vi is there a detectable difference in gas mileage and, if so, how much? I like getting 26 mpg on average and I don't want to have to settle for ~22 or something.
-About what is the difference in 1/4 mile times between the USIM and 00vi on a 4th gen? From what I've seen it's about 4 or 5 tenths of a second. Does that sound about right?
-What engine management setup would be best overall in terms of cost, ease of installation, selectability between stock, economy mode, and full on max power? I'm thinking eManage but I've heard others swear by JWT or Technosquare modified ECU's.
-I'm hoping for total cost to be around $500 or so for everything, is that reasonable?

 

if you're so worried go with a mevi, similar gains and a direct bolt on.

 

i'm going to get the lucas transmission additive.
where do i pour it in?

 

if its automatic, you are supposed to put it in through the dipstick...
if its Manual, there is a thing in front of the tranny, a screw with a square thing to unscrew it, you unscrew that and pour it in there....and also, thats the level...your oil is suppsoed to be that high

 

I have a manual 96 maxima and when I am approaching a stop light and push in the clutch the rpms drop down to 400 for a 1-2 seconds and then slowly climb up to 700...this only happens when the car is warm...the idle is smooth when it comes up...this is not a big problem but it is getting really annoying...please help...

 

Hey everyone

Quick question: if my 99 has the manual climate control, could i just buy a auto climate control of ebay and put it in? would it work?

 

From interior stickies:
Can I change my manual HVAC to automatic Climate Control?

Possibly, but probably not worth it.

http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...trol-swap.html

Credit: clee130

 

I currently installed my fog lights on my 97 max but they didnt turn on...it was already prewired all i had to do is connect them. I checked fuses, relay and still nothing any help....????

 

i have a question. i recently bought a 1996 nissan maxima SE and it has large dents in every corner of the vehicle. i was asking around and i hear the cheapest way to fix them is to just buy and replace the panels. can any one post a link or tell me how to change them out? i want to buy the panels at a pick~n~pull and isntall them myself.

 

you need the light stalk that has a switch for them. there's no separate button for them unless you wire one in.

 

the rear quarter panels are welded in, not bolted so you'll pay a lot at a body shop. the fronts - pull the headlights and undo a few bolts, simple as that.
get a dent puller for the rear.

 

what brake pads are you guys using on your 4th gens?

 

thanks

 

Varies quit a bit, but a popular favorite that is tried and true are the Hawk HPS pads.

 

Hi guys.

I need to replace my knock sensor. So I did find a write up in the maintenance section, the only concern I have is that it says over there that it has to be tighten up just right, otherwise it will affect its performance. The factory specs are 15-20 foot-lbs, but how do I measure it what the name of the tool and where do I get it?


Thank you guys.

 

It's called a torque wrench. You can get one at lots of places. ie Sears, Home Depot, Lowes, Autozone, Kragen, Pepboys, Napa, Harbor Freight etc

 

Good luck trying to fit that tq wrench in there without taking the IM off.

 

As long as it's not a 99 Calispec Max, it's doable IMO.

 

Thank you guys. I have a non California 99 Se Limited Edition on stick shift.

However there is a lot of staff you have to remove before you can even see the KS, anyone has a little more detailed write up?

 

A stupid question probably, but what is the difference between the K&N filter 33-2031-2
http://www.autozone.com/R,2249543/ve...ductDetail.htm

and regular air filter and how does it influence performance?

 

I could not fit my torque wrench in there even though I have one. There was not much room to fit in a large ratchet. In my case, I was using a 6" long 1/4 ratchet, and tight as much as I comfortably could.

 

Removing stuffs in the way would definitely help. But I did not bother, if you have a small ratchet, you should be able to do it without removing anything as long as you don't mind "bleeding wrist". You might need to find some leverage to loosen the bad one. One more suggestion, wait for the engine cool down a bit, I even got burn-mark, as I was not patient enough.

Don't forget to clean up the ground connections too. (http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php/507)

 

the k&n filter is reusable meaning you buy one for the life of your car and periodicaly clean and reoil it. performance wise...there's a lot of people that'll say it improves hp and as many that'll say it doesn't. it flows more freely however lets through more dirt particles than a paper oem filter. there's loads of different points of view all over the internet so just do a simple google search and that might help you decide. i've used them on every car i've had and liked them but can't say that i've noticed any significant improvement in hp or mpg. if you want one i'll sell you my used one cheap - just needs to be cleaned and oiled (any parts store carries a kit for doing that) so if you're interested pm me.

 

i would like to know if these would fit my 98 max gxe without any modifications and if so what size tires should i slap on

 

Hello all, I'm currently pushing 2 codes a P0140 which was described as "Insufficient activity from oxygen sensor 2 in bank 1 for current operating conditions" I would like to know which 02 sensor I need to buy, and also I have a KS code P0325 Which read"The PCM has determined that a malfunction exists in the electrical circuit for knock sensor 1.(Bank 1 or single sensor) and would like to know if a eBay KS is good to fix this. Basically I need to know the location of the oxygen sensor and where I should buy it. Autozone wanted $177 for a KS and 90 for a direct fit O2.