I was advised to get a y-pipe for my automatic 97 maxima to increase power. Can anyone give me the scoop on y-pipes??

Have you read the stickys?

1.) What is your budget?
2.) What are your plans?

1.) Just fill me in on the cost
2.) I'm just wondering if an automatic can get some decent power behind it and I was told a y-pipe would give me some.

i have a question if someone could help me i was thinking about doin the 3.5 swap for my 99 that has a 3.0 and i was wondering why does the 350z 3.5l have more power then the maximas? whats the difference between them if anyone knows? just wondering

What's wrong wit my bose volume dial? when I turn it up, it goes down, when i turn it down, it sometimes goes down? I can sometimes have the right touch, but seein as im not the best driver, ****in wit it too much for the "right tough" might be dangerous.. i have a 97, not that it matters, my pops says they're always a lil iffy when in cars...

n do maxima body kits look stupid? and... why do you think my check engine light disappeared when I jumped a curb? lmfao. my windshield is ****, so I couldn't see...

and... best rims for the 97?

keep in mind, I'm an 18 yr old half asian, half white girl who raps... NOW get to suggesting!! this is my first car, lookin to make it a project.

check the body kits out some people like them some people dont i dont really like them i like the lip kits more as for rims look some up find some that you like im putting 18s on my car.
as for your check engine light why was it on in the first place?

lol wow poor maxima

fyi curb jumping = f'd up car very bad for rims to by the way

Thanks for the information. I will do just that.

I have a hole in my exhaust so I want to get a new exhaust system. I was thinking about getting a greddy se exhaust system for my car. What other parts am I gonna need if I do so. Also theres some kind of flexhose off the manifold thats all messed up under my car too. Any suggestions for what I should do?

OK so ive done my best to read thru your forum before asking this question, but was unable to locate an answer. As a result ive joined the forum in the hopes one of you fine gentlemen can help. So here goes...

My issue is a strange one. I realize this is a thread for 4th gen, but i hope this is an issue that is Maxima-wide and therefore could be some answers for my 2001. I replaced my burnt out sunroof motor - when i installed the new motor, it worked, but would only tilt up & down. It would not open at all. After a few minutes of working on it outside in the 106 degree TN heat index, i rolled my other 4 windows down for some relief. I could not find what was causing the sunroof to not open, so i took a break & came inside to read on these posts as to what my issue may be. I came across various suggestions, many of which instructed me to start by disconnecting the neg terminal from the battery. Worst thing i ever did....
Now, none of the windows work. My mechanic used a machine to bypass the switches & roll up the windows (thank God) but they dont work now. Ive tried a 2nd replacement sunroof motor, checked all fuses/relays, etc. to no avail. PLEASE HELP!!! its been 4 wks since this happened & ive gotta be able to roll my windows down. Ive been told that the replacing of the motor caused the windows to be out of sync (?) and they need to be 'readdressed'... my local stealership had no idea what i was talking about.

try posting in the 5th gen forum.

I need a replacement key for my 97. My wife lost the spare key and it is a matter of time before we lose the one key we have left or lock it in the car. Can i get a copy made anywhere or do i have to go to the dealer and pay their outrageous prices?

Most any hardware store can make a copy of your key. Having gone through a few, personally I will only buy OEM blanks from the dealer and have them cut by a local hardware store or locksmith.

Given that the newest A32 is 11 years old now, I don't believe you can get a key cut from your VIN from the dealer anymore; if you lose all of them, it's a choice between rekeying the entire car or having a locksmith 'read' the pins in the existing locks to cut you a new key.

Basically, just go to a Home Depot/Lowes/etc and have a few new keys cut from your existing one, and keep one in a safe place at all times. I used to carry one in my wallet, was a blank without the plastic molding on it.

yeah that would be detrimental. did you ever get the ECU swapped out???

no actually i didnt have to do anything with the ecu i put a new set of battery terminals on it and got a 4 gauge wire and ran it from the - side of the battery to the tranny bolt that bolts between the engine and tranny and charged up a a battery and it started right up so i got off really lucky.. i thought i was going to have to spend at least 200 bucks and ended up spending like 20 lol

lucky bastard lol

So I've dug around a few days and have decided to get the warpspeed y-pipe and an ebay cat-back. . . seams to be the cheapest(emphasis on the cheapest) way to go. With that said. . . do I really need a cat? I can fab up the difference between the ypipe and the cat back as well as weld a bung in for the o2 sensor that is there. Will there be a CEL that comes on? If so, is there a way to terminate that sensor? I live in a state with no emissions inspection and really don't want to blow the money on a cat if I don't need it. The car is a 98 with 160,000 on it, 5-speed "family car" I have a family, so I can call it that, right? Thanks in advance.

At your performance level, not having a cat will yield no benefit. Keep the cat, save the environment please.

FWIW, no you won't throw a cel w/o the cat. You can get a test pipe for like $30 shipped from egay too.

Thanks for the input!!

alright so i just bought a 96 max. im looking for some easy to install upgrades for it to basically get a little more out of my car. what would you guys suggest? i have like $300 to spend on some parts

I'd go for a Y-pipe and intake. I was able to do my Y with ramps and a regular socket set (and a little bit of PB blaster). Should be able to do it in $300 or less. Found this on ebay: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1995-...|Make%3ANissan
Although i don't know about the quality or reputation of that particular model, you'll have to do your own research on that.

I've got a 95 max - se 5spd. 3 years ago I was driving at a somewhat unreasonable speed in reverse and blew the tranny (not sure exactly what happened internally). Last weekend after 3 years of sitting i finally got a new tranny put in her. Flushed and refilled ALL the fluids and fired her up. To my surprise, everything seemed to go well....until i took it for a test drive. It wouldn't go into 1st gear at all, it would go into 2nd but would pop out after making a grinding noise. All other gears operate normally. I was wondering if anyone has had any problems like this (i've searched the problems and have found similar but i haven't found anyone who've posted follow ups to explain their findings). Or if anyone had any suggestions on what to check next. So far, I've checked the slave cylinder, master cylinder fluid level, checked all hoses in between and all seem fine. I've also inspected the motor mounts/ tran mount visually and they seem fine as well. Could this possibly be a linkage issue? Also, when replacing the tranny i replaced the clutch as well. Any help would be appreciated and the yard that i picked up the tranny from offered a 90 day warranty which i'm approaching the deadline to so time is somewhat of the essence. THANKS!

is the injen intake the only one for 4th gen maximas??? and i heard K&N filters are real good too?

Intakes are virtually worthless, hp wise. And Injen is the worst one of the bunch to boot. Get a ypipe as it's the best bang for the buck mod out there.
Do the research, tons of info here on the org.

so would a y-pipe and a K&N drop in filter give me some hp gain as well as mpg???? because that's what i'm thinking of doing for now. maybe an intake later on. im also looking for some bolt-on mods to increase my mpg if there are any?

Trying to save money I removed my transmission myself (5sp manual out of a 1998 Maxima SE). Next step - sent to dealer where I was a Nissan Service Advisor (I distrust dealers after working for them). Got the transmission back today and managed to get the transmission itself installed, Front and Rear Motor Mounts, Transmission mount, and then to the top. I have the starter on, slave cylinder, air intake (cheap cold air), MAF connected, the bottom sensors (the one on the front of the car and the one on the bottom of the transmission). The problem now, right behind the transmission mount there is a small black rectangular connector that appears to ground out to the chassis. I can not find where to plug it in! Help please!!

Picture maybe?

Not the best, to the left is the starter and to the right is the master cylinder reservoir. It looks like the wire from this connector grounds to the fender (D/S)

The Plug

Edited to add:
The wiring harness on my left is MAF and temp sensor. I have the ebay resistor in the temp sensor not sure if its worth anything; but, figured I'd mention it while bringing up the harness

are k&n filters worth it?? what do you gain from them? do they really damage your engine?

I wouldn't trust the original owner diagnosis, I had bought a few cheap cars with a diagnosis and they have all been way off. A car that is down on power usually doesn't need a new ECU.

So it sound like you have been using a used battery and now won't turn over? You will eventually need a new battery, but in the mean time you can use jumper cable and jump it from another car or if you have a battery charger with a hi current jump start mode.

No mods give you mpg...only maintenance gives back what you lost. I already explained that intakes on the Max are worthless.

Are they worth it? That's up to you. The only benefit of the K&N is that you don't have to replace it, only clean and re-oil per their directions. It might give you 1 mpg if you're lucky, and 1-2 hp too. Will you notice a difference? Nope. And no, they won't damage your engine....LOL unless you're an idiot and saturate the thing in cleaning oil; only then could something happen.

Start searching and

alright thanks for help. i just heard they let alot of dirt into the engine but thanks agian

Focus on the ypipe.
Ypipe $250 ~15 to 20hp, proven too
K&N $50 ~1 to 2hp if you're lucky

Clearly, the ypipe is the better bang for the buck mod.

is there a particular brand/style y-pipe that's best?

I am buying a Cattman Y-Pipe but its a $100 more, because they are suppose to hold up better due better quality materials (hence the price increase)

Air bag perhaps? everything is together. Air bag lamp is now on?? Clutch pedal does not return as smooth as I hoped and it is a bit difficult to get into gear, Adjustment?

It's just a ground strap to the trans. Near the driver's wheel well, there should be a small rectangular tab that the connector goes to.

FWIW it's not necessary, I've never had a problem running without one.

Did you disconnect any of the clutch hydraulics? If so, did you thoroughly bleed the system (at both the upper and lower bleeders)? There is some adjustment where the clutch master connects to the pedal.

IMO, Cattman is the best, but it's also the most expensive at $350. Most people go with Warpspeed for $200 (aluminized ss) or better yet, thier $250 ypipe which is full stainless steel. Cattman just had a sale for $315, but it's over now.

Fixed for clarity.

Not this time around. This whole project started because I would lose the pedal. 1st I replaced tbe slave, then master cylinder, and still ng. That's when I drop the transmission (D/S differential bearing had play causing leak) I was not going to but wanted to see if anything there was wrong..... Clutch was still good, only thing I saw was on the throwout bearing, one of the clips broke. Replaced all anyway (transmission was down, why not).

Where is the top bleeder?? none on master??

I deleted my original question...problem solved.