My bad. I really don't know much at all about cars so I am just throwing things out there to try to help you guys help me. It has plenty of mid and high end power but it just seems sluggish until i get going. Any idea at all at what could be causing this?

 

Could be a million different things. Does it 'feel' slower than it did in the past? Or did you just get it and assume it's down on power?

Do a full tuneup, use high test fuel, see how it feel then.

 

i have a 1996 nissan maxima se. i have to get all 4 of my tires changes since it's really bad (been almost 3 years since i changed them). I currently have Goodyear Integrity P205/65R15 92S on them. I just need an "every season" tire that's under $100 a piece. Does it matter if the size of the new tire is slightly different (ie: P215/600R15) or if I go with a P205/65R15 92H? Also, I've always been a fan of Goodyear. Any ideas on what other brands are good but doesnt break the bank?

 

They don't have to be exactly the same, no.

If you want your speedo to still be relatively accurate, then they need to be close to the same overall size.

Whereever you get your tires done should be able to help you with that, and recommend good budget tires.

 

K well I was driving home from work and just as I got home the car died, so im guess the alternator was shot and was just cutting in and out and finally went. This will be the third time replacing the alternator in a year so I think its time to say bye to the maxima. Too expensive for an alternator and too hard to do it myself.

 

It's a 45 minute job

 

For you maybe, im sure you know how to do it very well, and im sure your car doesnt have lots of rusty parts. I have read the motorvate write up and I just dont think its worth it. The car needs an alignment, alternator, y-pipe, front rad support, and a few more things, seeing how I have already replaced the alternator twice and the rad support once, its almost not worth it since its a 13 year old car.

 

Would an alternator from a 1997 work in a 1996? Also would an alternator from the 2000-2001 models work?

 

Yes and yes.

Just note that the 5th gen ('00-'01) alternators are 110a units, whereas the '97 could be 100a. All personal preference.

'95 is 125a across the board.
'96 is 110a for Cali spec cars, 125a for everything else (Fed/Canada).
'97 is 100a standard, 110a with the 'cold weather' package.
'98-08 are 110a only.
'09 actually moved up to a 130a alternator.

This is assuming you're going for a used OEM unit. New alternators can differ from stock a bit, they'll specifically state the amperage (usually).

 

K so I found a used alternator for fairly cheap, now on the motorvate page it shows the drive belt tensioner, I looked at my car and do not have that, not sure how I am supposed to do that without it there. Anyone know why?

 

Hey guys. I recently noticed that my steering wheel seems to stiffen up at variable speeds..PS fluid was drained and refilled recently using the turkey baster method..it also makes some moaning sounds when I turn but its inconsistent..any ideas?

 

No I got it about a year and a half ago. Just feels slower than it used to. Ok thanks, I'll look into having that done.

 

What do you mean you don't have a tensioner?

If you didn't have a tensioner, you wouldn't have a belt on there.

 

Anyone have an idea or a link I can read?

 

For...what?

I've got many ideas and links, but it would help if we knew the context.

 

Hello,

97 GLE-can't handle bumps, feels outta control, front end ok. I suspect it's the struts.
Which is the best struts for touring suspension. I want it to handle, but i want a soft ride. I have some MXV4s on it and the ride is smooth. I don't wanna change that by adding performance struts if the ride will be hard .

Please advise.

Thanks,
bella

 

Did you search?
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...shocks-se.html
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...nd-shocks.html
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...ky-smooth.html
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...e-springs.html

...etc. A little searching and you'll find hundreds of threads with the answer to your question.

Before you ask a question, always go here first.

 

I thought tha I saw a post or sticky explaining the steps to replacing the motor mounts in my 1999 max but now I can find it. Was I seeing things?

 

You mean this? http://www.vqpower.com/v2/articles.php?article_id=151

Or this? http://www.vqpower.com/v2/articles.php?article_id=20

 

Whats up guys,
So I just replaced fuel filter on my '96 and what a PITA. Got Bloody knuckles??? Jeez.... Anyways, this was the first time I changed the filter. The OEM filter was made in japan and I the top outlet terminal of the filter (going into engine) had a bent-elbow shaped. The new one I ordered from dealer had made in usa on it, the word terminex (I think, term- something), and get this...... the top outlet of the filter was straight.

Because the new filter was missing the elbow shaped terminal on the top outlet of the filter, now the filter itself does not have enough clearance to fit back in the filter bracket. I can buy some longer tubing (from the engine inlet to top of filter) and fix this. But I would rather not, I mean the filter is pretty small, has clamps on the ends of tubes, and there is no wiggle space so its a tight fit. Is this okay, I mean if it is not secure by bracket? I can see the bracket being useful if there is alotta wiggle space or if a bigger 300zx filter gets put on, but there is none of that so what u guys think???

 

You're right, i didn't search. I will look at your suggestions.

Thanks,
bella

 

I'm posting here because i dont quite know how to search for this because its so vauge.
Electric mods. Bright light corners, aftermarket fogs, Alpine200w HU, 2000w amp. LED's lighting up dashboard(running power from the cig lighter), running silverstar brightest lights 9004's.
im using the battery i got with the car a year ago. cleaned the ternimals yesterday but problem still persist.
im driving a 97' GXE max. manual.
A few weeks back when i got in my car one morning i turned my key and nothing happend expect my dashlights would turn on(cel airbag seatbelt ect.) no click or anything. i immediatly turned the key again, and it works perfect, starts up after a few cranks(1-3) and off i go.
this might have been happening a few weeks before off and on but not alot because nothing stands out in my mind.

im wondering what could be causing this, im begining my 01vi swap in a few weeks and i dont want a starter problem in addition to trying to make sure my swap goes good. I'm hoping its not a battery problem but i suspect it might be. starter is a fear also.
good news is that Autozone is running a sale on Red cap optimas for awile if it is my battery.

 

I would look at the ignition switch first.

Are you sure the filter you replaced was OEM? Are you the original owner of the car?

I've never seen an OEM Nissan filter (for the A32, anyway) with an elbow for the upper hose.

 

Edit. It reposted for some odd reason?

 

...see my response to the identical post you made not even 9 minutes ago.

More posts don't equal more responses...

 

I search around the forum for a answer to my problem and really couldnt find anything.. Must be cause im a newbie but I have a major problem now with my Maxima with the starting.. In order to start my car I will have to clutch and start at the same time and sometimes it will take me all day to even start it once could it be the Slave thats giving me this problem??.. Or something else cause its honestly annoying to start the car this way i like to press the clutch start and go not clutch and start thats if i get it in that motion.. has this ever happened to anyone else??..

 

What does 'go not clutch' mean?

You should have to depress the clutch pedal in order to start the car.

What exactly is it doing or not doing?

Can you make a video?

Your post is not very clear at all, if you explain better it will be easier to help.

 

its kinda really hard to explain but i will try my best to do soo on the forum
-It doesnt make any cranking noise when I step on the clutch then turn the ignition
- what it does is NUFFIN complete silence as if the car needs an starter or something
- battery works perfectly cause i recently changed it and everything works in the car and the starter is new
- I would have to clutch and start at the same time in order for it to start right up and it would take many of tries for it to start
- once its start up it never dies until i cut it off of course so it cant be a clutch problem at all
- clutch does feel a lil loose but i already bleed the clutch and added new brake fluid into the master
- my friend told me to adjust the clutch cause the clutch isnt catching to the starter or something he was trying to explain...
i just wanna kno exactly it is b4 i go to my machanic

Not soundind rude of any sort but is that somewhat clear to understand my problem and can u help me out wit my problem??..

 

The clutch pedal has nothing to do with the starter, other than the clutch switch which allows the starter to engage.

Physically, the clutch is irrelevant to the starter.

When you say you 'clutch and start' at the same time, are you referring to depressing the clutch pedal and turning the key at the same time?

When you turn the key first, do the regular idiot lights come on, just no crank? Or absolutely nothing? If you jiggle the key, does that help any?

Have you tried bypassing the clutch switch?

 

Yes that exactly what i do in order to start it all the time by depressing the clutch and turning the key at the same time.

I tried jiggling the key but that doesnt help in anyway at all, amd everything lights up and works perfectly in the car just no crank when i turn the key to start

How can i bypass the clutch switch

 

Jump the two pins together.

 

Alright I cant LIE at all i drive cars and do everything in them i kno some stuff but not everything soo i might sound kinda slow asking this but what or how do i Jump the pins together.. Where can i find it to do soo??.. Cause i wouldnt mind trying it 2morrow. Can u expalin it step by step

 

its fine just widen the bracket some.

 

Unplug the connector for the switch on the back of the clutch pedal, stick a paperclip or something in there, see if it cranks then.

 

is the car in neutral?

 

OHHHHH that??.. I did unplug the clutch frm inside the car but i didnt put any paperclip or anything but it still didnt crank but i will try and see what happens then.. But if it does work what will it mean to my problem??..

 

Yes but it still could start in any gear also.. I do that to my lil brother maxima all the time

 

If you unplugged the correct switch, the car should not crank.

If it does work, then the clutch switch is either adjusted improperly, or failing.

 

Alright i guess that what my friend was trying to tell me what to do about the whole adjusting the clutch part.. and u said the plug exactly behind the clutch peddle.. I believe thats the same plug i unplugged but this time i will add a paperclip to it and see what happens.. But what if it still doesnt start??..

 

Then it's some other intermittent issue, and we'll go from there.

Short of the clutch switch, I'm leaning towards a loose connection or worn out ignition switch.