and my bad about the sig pic, i didnt know there were guidelines.

 

Given the average price of a VQ30 and the cost in teardown of the motor alone (not including hard parts, machining, etc), the scale tips heavily in favor of just getting a new motor. As in, you're looking at around a grand for labor alone, and in these parts VQ30s are just about free.

Keep in mind the labor cost to swap out the engine, unless you're doing it yourself.

 

New Maxima owner and trying to get all info on car i can before modding it..

So i've read almost all the How-To's and tried searching but cant find anything on removing the front side marker lights next to headlights. I've only had about 10 mins to actually look and attempt removing them, but only found one screw which didnt completely free housing... Any links for this in specific and for the bumper lights?

 

Yea, that what i was leaning more toward because i looked up the parts for prices and they were out there, but ive seen motors for around 400 or cheaper. I got a price of 400 to install from a couple places so ill probably just go that route

 

BOTH actually :O its a 1995 gle

 

Anyone?

 

Hello everyone i am new to the forum and have a problem. I have a 96 max 5spd with 230000 miles on it. When im driving my car will hesitate when i hit a bump then after awhile my car will stay at like 4000 rpms even when my foot is on the accelerator when i take my foot off it revs to to about 7000 then drops and car turns off, but if i keep my foot on the accelerator it will keep driving, but the car doesnt do it everyday it seems like it does it every other day

 

there is only 1 screw. After you take the screw out,you have to wiggle the corner light out

 

If you've ever driven a VQ35 equipped car, you'll know it's worth it to get a 5.5 over a 5th gen. Even more so if it's a 6MT.

The 4th gen is out there in larger numbers (IIRC) and is relatively popular due to it's decent speed stock, as well as a number of other features about it.

Keep in mind the 5.5 has not only the VQ35, but also a stronger auto or a 6MT instead of a 5MT, HID headlights, etc. Better vehicle in many ways, IMO.

Remove that screw and pull the light out. Most of the time you'll need a prybar or long screwdriver to pop the ball/socket joint, as they tend to be stuck in there quite well.

First thing I'd look for is a malfunctioning IACV. Also, try shaking the engine control harness where it moves around the right strut tower with the engine running, they were known for issues there.

 

How much are you adding? Normal consumption per NNA is 1qt/1k miles

 

My 95 max anytime i hit a bump while driving the car pulls to the right? the struts are good i jus put them in

 

Okay?

Have you jacked it up and checked out the suspension at all?

 

My A32's trip meter resets every time I turn off the engine. Where should I start checking?

 

I replaced the rear TC o-rings in my daughters 97 GLE a couple of weeks ago. Also changed the TC tensioner and water pump. Everything seemed to go well (other than the time it took). When I put the timing chain back on I lined up the links with the camshaft and crank marks. Started it up and after the initial TC noise it quieted down and the engine idles smoothly. Driving revealed rough acceleration, sort of like a vibration, but isn't present at idle or while cruising. (The car has an automatic.) No DTC codes were present except the KS. Checking the timing with a timing light indicates the ignition timing is off. I ordered one of the cheap knock sensors from ebay and installed it thinking that was causing the problem. After installing the KS I re-checked the timing (engine still warm but not normal operating temp) and the timing looked normal. While driving it the rough acceleration is still present. Timing check at normal operating temp reveals the timing is still off. I found a diagram posted by jgrafe under a post titled "How do I remove the timing chain cover?" that reflects what I'm seeing with a timing light. Only my car doesn't have a rough idle like his did.

http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...ain-cover.html

My question is... if the car idles smoothly can I assume the valve timing is correct? And if so, what else could cause the ignition timing to be off.

 

Check the 7.5A fuse in the upper right of the interior fuse box - this is the KAM power feed to the cluster, among other things:


Though if this fuse is blown, you should be noticing quite a few other things with issues, including the clock and radio. If the fuse is fine, check pin 15 at the cluster (Y/L wire) for constant power. If it doesn't have power, you'll have to trace the wire back to the fuse box to find the open circuit.

 

Did you disconnect the TPS?

 

95 max hesitates to start its been happening for about 3 days now. I had my battery, and the starter checked and both are good. I also did my spark plugs to because they needed to be done but thats still not the problem its still hesitating any suggestions????

 

Thanks for the response. No, I didn't disconnect the TPS. I will check the timing with the TPS sensor disconnected. It will be a couple of days before I can check the timing again. Is it possible having the TSP connected would make the timing off that much?

 

I'm guessing that the reasoning is that disconnecting the TPS disables the electronic timing, allowing you to check base, or static timing.

 

Do You Know Where I can Find Good Genuine OEM parts for my 96 SE. My main issue is my egrc soleniod valve + the rest of the emissions system. I cannot find a new egrc soleniod valve. the ecu code is 1005 Even though im 99% sure you already know that? Thanks. "Legit Newbie"

 

courtesyparts.com

 

thanks very much.

 

i have a question regarding tire pressures. i have michelin primacy mxv4s and the max pressure on the sidewall says 44psi. is that the cold pressure? and if so should i fill it up to the max or lower?

 

44psi is the max pressure, as you said. Max == Maximum. Meaning the most you should ever set it to, should you for some reason have a need to go that high. And yes, that's cold.

Go by the inflation sticker underneath the center armrest.

 

I have an intermittent starting problem on my 97 GLE.. i dont understand what it is, but sometimes it starts right up with less than a second of turning the key while other times it takes a while to start it. I turn the key and it cranks, the RPMS move a little bit as if it wants to start and than eventually it does. Sometimes it starts, and than the RPM's die out and in order for me to keep it running i have to hit the gas and rev it to about 4 RPMS...any ideas? :/

 

Sounds like you are loosing fuel pressure. Replace your fuel pressure regulator (FPR). It is located on the rear fuel rail.

 

Double check your starter. Who tested your starter and how did they test it?

 

well there not the original wheels/tires so im not really sure what to set them to

 

As I said:

Really it doesn't much matter, a few pounds eithr direction won't make a huge difference.

 

Need more info. Does it hesitate all the timr or hesitate when the car been sittin for awhile.

Clean, TB and MAF. CLean Grounds located on top of engine. Check CPS and CKPS as per FSM

 

Clean TB and MAF per How tos

 

The issue: Bought a cheap front strut bar from Ebay $25 and installed.

The bigger issue: This strut bar cooked off my vacuum hose off my EVAP canister (the tiny one that is connected to the top canister.

The Fix: When to autozone and bought a longer hose and is now reconnected.

My question: Was this a right fix? Should I have checked something else in the process?

Thanks

 

I got the problem fixed today i took the CAR TO AUTOZONE and they checked the starter with it in the car and it passed. But the following day i drove back to autozone and took out the starter and they tested it. And it passed the first time and he tested it like 3 more times and it failed. I got another starter because i have it no warranty. But the car starts up good now. Thanx for the help tho

 

If there's no air leaking nor codes being shown then it shouldn't be an issue. Show us a picture of this long hose and strut bar if you need a complete answer.

 

Hey need help....I have 99 I30 with a noise that sounds like a belt squealing. I have changed out both belts---still squeals. I changed out idler pulley--still squeals. I then took off main serpentine and started car with only power steering belt----still squealed. Then took off power steering belt---no squeal. Ah hah, I thought, must be power steering pump, or loose belt. Belt felt very tight. I installed a new pump, tightened new belt---STILL SQUEALS!!!! Any suggestions???? VERY FRUSTRATED!!!

 

Sounds like your Crankshaft Pulley is on the way out...start the car and watch to see if you can see it wobbling..

 

Have a huge problem. I sprayed out my engine bay today and now there is a problem. It worked fine at first, but now on start up the engine revs fine but after about 10 seconds it will not. If given gas it will not rev past 1500 rpm. Its almost like a maf but i have checked and it looks fine. Plaese help!

The car is a 2002. Electric throtle body maybe. Have the car with no nevative terminal on for now drying in the sun.

 

sorry just relized im in the 4th gen thread

 

Here are the pictures showing the issue of the ebay strut bar.








Lesson learned, never buy ebay strut bars!!!

 

Hi, When ever I have something wrong with my car I always find answers on here. Thank you all so much for the help you’ve already given me. My new problem is a good one. Please Help, No car for almost a week. I have a 1997 Maxima automatic with 150k. Monday I drove to work no problems. That night I when I turn the key the car sounds like it's going to start but it didn't. I tried it many times; there is about 3/4 tank of gas. We tried to jump it but didn't work, the battery is 1 year old. I have had no problems with the car, no warning signs, all of a sudden it won't start. Sometimes when i turn the car on (start it) there is something lose by the ignition where I have to wiggle the key to get the radio & wipes to turn on. Oh, and the check engine light is on but it's been on for two years. I finally checked the codes manually by counting the check engine light. I counted them about 7 times each. Two codes came up undefined and told me to check them again so i counted each 3 more times and all the numbers were the same. I got 4 total codes searched the net for all the codes and found them on maxima.org. 0704 = P0450, 0215 = p1446, 0514 = p1402, 0304=P0325 I’m thinking the EVAP sensor code is going off because i opened the gas cap and heard the pressure release. Part of me thinks these may not be good codes anyways because the lights been on for over two years. The Car has always run like a champ, there were no warning signs with this problem. Just won't start.
this is a list of what we tried tonight on the car.
1. I put in a new air filter, just because the old one was dirty.
2. Checked the oil then changed it and replaced the filter. it was pretty much empty. After I drained it there was about 1.5 qts that came from the engine. I knew it was overdue but I’ve never seen it like that. Possibly a slow leak.
3. Pulled the hose from the top of the fuel filter to see if it was dry. There was plenty of gas in there and in the filter. I let the fuel drain from the top hose then i hooked it back up. tried to start the car and it didn't start. then i took the hose off from the top of the fuel filter again. it was full. i then sprayed starter fluid down the tube tried to start the car, it didn't start. I'm pretty sure the fuel pump is working because when i tried to start the car with the hose off gas came spilling out of the filter.
4. Next i tried to see if I was getting a spark from the coils. To do this I unhooked one coil stuck a screw driver down the coil and held it next to bare metal while I tried to start the car. I got NO spark, so I tried a different coil, Again NO spark. I have ONE ignition coil that I replace 1 year ago so I knew I had at least 1 good one. I pulled that one off and got NO spark.
5. I pulled all the old spark plugs and put in new NGK plugs. When i pulled the plugs they didn't look good, one caught my attention and for some reason i smelled it. there was a odd smell to it. i wouldn't say 'burnt' smell but something similar (if that makes since) Reconnected all the coils, tried to start the car and ... it didn't start.
6. took out one of the new plugs put it in the end of the newest coil and tried to see if i could see a spark from the plug. NO Spark. (Now I'm thinking we are checking for a spark the wrong way)
7. started checking fuses. got 1/2 way done and packed it up for the night.
OH, let's cover all the bases. The car at one point was stolen from a previous owner. the steering column was broken. when i put my key in the ignition and turn the car on (start it) there is something lose by the ignition where i have to wiggle the key to get the radio & wipers to turn on. and there is an alarm on the car. my brother has asked me if maybe there is some kind of kill safe on the alarm that could be making it do this. i dont think so because i can turn the car on listen to the radio, turn the lights on, windows, trunk, everything BUT start it. Like I said it turns over and sounds like it’s going to start.
Thanks in advance for your help!