Hello everyone my name it Chris. I have been having 2 different problems and cant seem to solve either one of them. The first is that i have put 2 alts in the car and while i am driving the battery light and the e-brake light come and go from time to time i have replaced the pos and neg wires plus added more ground wires and it still happens had the alt tested and came back good. The 2nd it i replaced the clutch and axle seals drained the gear oil and put fresh in i noticed that i was still leaking gear oil all over the place but could not see where from,I pulled the trans again cleaned it found no cracks any where so i re-installed it the leak continues i took off the dust cover from the bottom of the trans to find out where it was comeing from and behold it is pouring out from between the motor and the trans and i cant find out where and i am not far away from just tearing in to this trans and seeing if i can fix it myself... so i guess my question is has anyone had these same problems and if so how hard where they to fix?????

 

have you tested your voltage regulator and also the front trans seal behind the clutch might be leaking, did you replace it when you did your clutch?...

also as a note if you space out your problems and take some time to type and edit your post it will be easier to read and understand

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NISSAN-MAXIM...ht_3541wt_1416


Is this something I can use as a midpipe? I don't know if it's legit or not ...... :/

Help please

 

Thank you i had advance auto check the alternator and it came back good I defected it out 2 times now and same thing happpens...
That seal I was not sure if it was a sealed bearing or not cause everywhere I call to get it can't find it in there system so does anyone know if it is a seal or bearing and can someone give me a part number so I can get this fixed before my wife makes me get rid of the car cause she is tired of me putting so much money in it lol....

Sorry for the spaceing and all but I am on my phone doing this cause my computer crashed

 

On your alternator problem, check the small 2 wire connector that plugs into the alternator. Make sure that it cannot pull out and that there is no in/out play in the connector.

 

The leak is probably the input shaft seal, but no point in swapping that out until you make sure the ISB isn't bad, which is the most likely reason the seal is leaking.

Did you test the original alternator, or assume it was bad because of the lights on the dash? Have you checked the wiring and harness connector at the alternator itself? When the battery/brake lights come on, what voltage do you show at the battery, and at the alternator?

 

im sure its legit, but to be honest you'd be much better off just buying a cold air intake off of ebay cause it will include the rest of what that kit is missing

 

isb is input shaft bearing incase you wernt sure...but is your car dieing or wont start every morning cause of a dead battery...how do you know its the alternator in the first place...lets take a few steps back to make sure were not just throwing parts at it

 

97 GLE

I hope someone can give me some direction with this-- flaky stuff is happening with my driver's door and security system and I don't know what to do next.
Right now, after having my driver's door actuator and lock/handle rods replaced, I still have issues with my door lock and FOB.

Here's a brief history of the problem:

About 4 months ago 2 FOBs stopped working. I tried new batteries, but they still did not work and I could not program them.
About 2 months ago I noticed that the driver's door would open when the exterior handle was pulled, even after I locked the door using the switch from inside the car.
About 2 months ago the driver's door began to close weakly, and often seemed to fall open after I unlocked it with the key.
About 2 weeks ago the driver's door stuck closed.
Yesterday I brought it to a mechanic-- he changed the driver's door actuator and handle/lock rods with a salvage yard part.
Today the driver's door feels like it closes crisply. When I lock the door from inside the car using the switch and pull the exterior handle, the door does not open.

But there are still 2 problems:
1. The driver's door self-unlocks 5 minutes or so after I lock it using the key. When I open the self-unlocked door, the security system goes off (blinkers/horn). The security system shuts off when I insert and turn the key in either door lock or the trunk lock.
2. FOB is still not programmable-- The hazards flash after I insert the key 4x, rather than 6x (I remember it taking 6x when I successfully programmed a FOB last year). After the hazards flash, I turn the ignition to AAC and press the lock button as instructed. Nothing happens-no sound, no flashing hazards, nada.
I lost the original key, and now have copies made at the hardware store. Is this an issue?

Does anyone have a clue what this may be, what to check next?

 

is your security system completely stock now? If not, I might debate pulling it or otherwise making CERTAIN it is non-operable, and try to duplicate the trouble then.

 

i put a volt gauge in the car and it will run 14.1 most of the time but when the light comes on on the dash it drops down to 12.3 or lower i have checked wires and double checked them and all connections are tight and hooked up good this problem has me confused....

 

It is the stock security system. The security system sort of works-- the red security dash light stays on when the car door is locked with the key, the horn/hazards go off when a door is opened & they stop when the key is turned in a door or trunk lock. I can always start the car.

What does not work are the FOBs and the driver's door self unlocks after a few minutes, but the security system remains armed until I turn a key in a lock.

 

The first thing I would do is disconnect the data line at the master switch (R/B, pin 1) and see if it still unlocks by itself. If not, the unlocking is being commanded by the BCM (possibly an internal problem, or receiving input from the MRCU), or if so, it's a problem with the master switch itself.

I would be suspect of the BCM being at fault, either internally or being requested by the MRCU, given the issue in programming in a new remote.

Having copies of the key doesn't matter for any Nissan earlier than '99, that's when NATS was first introduced.

 

Thanks for your response. Today the driver's door will not open from outside, and only opens from inside when forced. I have to go out of town for a week, so I think troubleshooting will be delayed. I have to drive it 500 miles, this really blows!

 

im out

 

Hello,

I have a 1995 nissan maxima. It has about 250k on it. Recently I had the MAF changed and the alternator changed also. For some reason the car runs great but when it comes to a stop, like at a red light, the car stalls and the battery light comes on. It seems to start back up after cranking it once or twice. Could it be the battery is bad? It is a duralast battery with a red top I beleive it is about a year to two years old.

 

a bad battery wouldnt cause the car to stall out like that at a stop light...is the mil light on and do you have an auto or a 5 speed

 

Hello there Kuh_man,

It is an automatic. The check engine light does come on but when I start it up it up the check engine light goes away. Tonight I noticed that when I have it in part and turn the steering wheel to the left or the right a tad and hold it there the rpm jumps up and down. I also noticed when I push the power window buttons all the way up the lights dim. Could it be a TPS sensor? I can also hear a high pitched whining noise also.

 

I would start off with cleaning the TB and IACV, that is most likely the cause of your stall when coming to a stop.

 

pmohr is right, start by cleaning your throttle body and idle air control...as far as the rpms jumping up and down when you turn your wheel its from the powersteering pump drawing extra power from the engine which is normal on our cars.

and the lights dimming when the window is all the way up is also normal, what it is when the window is all the way up and you hit the up switch the window motor is trying to essentially push the window up more which uses alot of power and causes the altinator to work harder...as long as the lights go back to normal brightness when you let go of the switch your ok


do you hear the high pitch winning noise when turing the wheel? if yes than check your powersteering fluid its probably low

 

Hey guys, we just bought a maxima 5 speed and the tach doesn't work. What could be the problem? Also there is a really high pitched whine coming from it, is that the timing belt, or something else? Thanks for the help, Chris

 

Ok one thing Im starting to notice is the fan isnt kicking in. Could that be a reason why its stalling when im at idle at red light? The car thinks its overheating so it shuts down?

 

I'm working on diagnosing a power window issue on a 1995 maxima. Could someone engage the power window lock (so that only the driver's controls function) and then attempt to use the remote to lower the windows? Please report back which windows, if any, go down.

I would greatly appreciate it!

 

well whats you temp guage saying, knowing the 95 it wouldnt shut off when it gets hot, itll just overheat itself into oblivion lol at least thats what mine did, but the fans not kicking on wouldnt be a reason for the car to shut off, at least on the 95 model year i could see it on the 96 or newer cause we still have the older obd1 computer system where as the 96 has the ob2 system but have you looked into cleaning the idle air control at all?

 

your gonna have to rephrase that question cause i dont understand what your trying to ask

 

Have you checked for a tach signal coming into the cluster? Tightened the TAM screw on the backside of the cluster? If both, then it's most likely just a bad tach, it can be replaced individually or with an entire cluster.

High pitched whine coming from it, meaning the tach? Or from the engine? Where on the engine, pulley side? Trans side? Only when moving, or also when idling? More information is needed.

No, there is no timing belt.

No, there is no real overheat protection.

The fan isn't 'kicking in' when, when it gets over the coolant temperature threshold for fan operation? How high does the ECTS reading go?

Do the fans turn on when you use the AC?

The '95 is NOT OBD-I. It's perfectly OBD-II compliant.

 

is your cel light comming on and where do you hear the noise from...gonna have to be more specific

 

That was actually one of the clearest and best explained questions I've seen in this thread for quite a while.

Engage window lockout button. Use remote to lower windows. Which go down?

As far as the answer, I would give it a shot but my OE remotes are long gone.

 

On certain models, you can use the key fob to lower the windows. I believe you push and hold one of the buttons (can someone confirm?). On a model that has this feature, I need someone to do the following:

1) Push the "window lock" button on the driver's control panel (no other window switches should work).
2) Use the key fob to lower the windows.
3) Post back here with what happened. (Which windows went down, if any).

Thanks!

 

The '95 is NOT OBD-I. It's perfectly OBD-II compliant.[/quote]

you can hook a obd-II code reader up to it yes, but for indepth engine diagnosis you need the obd-I connections

 

Thanks - I knew engineering school would be good for something!

 

sorry but i wasnt sure by what he ment by remote...he kindly answered my reply by sayin it was the key fob, excuse me for asking him to explain it for me a little better.

 

Incorrect.

For one, it's not an 'OBD-I' connector, it's a CONSULT port. Second, pretty much everything you need for a driveability diag is available through generic OBD-II data.

 

We don't have the car yet, we are picking it up tomorrow, the whine is only when we are moving. I have no clue what the TAM screw is. I am not a gearhead by any means, but I'm trying to learn. I figured this would be a perfect opportunity to learn to work on cars myself and more in-depth.

 

i knew what the obd-II connector did but after some thought and searching im gonna suck up my pride and say im corrected. i just assumed it was one of the many different connections that the obd-I had

 

What year is this new purchase? I'm assuming '95-'97, in which case:


If '98 or '99, you'll just have to check the connections at the back of the cluster, and make sure you're getting an RPM signal on the W/G wire. If you are, and everything else works, it's likely just a defective tach. If you have any electronics repair experience, you could likely fix it by just reflowing any suspicious looking solder joints.

Does this whine change in pitch from gear to gear? Worse in any specific gear? Does it go away if you disengage the clutch and go into neutral? Is it linked to your speed?

I'd get underneath and check for play in the diff bearings, as in most other Maxima 5MTs, most likely they're loose. If so, that would mean trans overhaul or replacement (not that a used unit is likely to fare any better).

 

im still some what of a newb to maxima.org . so much info its so helpful its not even funny i feel like i could build the ultimate maxima with all this info. the one thing i got lost on in the beginning was abbreviated part names IACV , TB , EGR , etc. and i was wondering if anyone has a thread on all the abbreviated names and their terms. if this question was already brought up i apologize there were way to many posts on this thread to read

 

IACV=Idle Air Control Valve
TB=Throttle Body
EGR=Exhaust Gas Recirculatio

All the abbreviations are here in this sticky.

 

So i recently changed my camshaft P.S and its been starting fine..now my car shuts off randomly at a red light unless i throw it in neutral and rev lightly to keep the rpm up..now i do have an exhaust leak which i doubt would cause that cuz i always had that..and i hve an oil leak around one of my coils..take out the coil and its dranched but again i had that leak and it never shut off before..any suggestion?

 

Ive got a quick question about the bose system in a 97, when i have the cd or radio on it only plays through the door speakers/tweeters and when i play the tape it only plays on the driver side door. About 6 months ago i had accidently played the radio with the back pass. side speaker/amp unconected and when i plugged it in that speaker wouldnt work. i just drove around like that and about a month ago the other rear speaker stopped working. do you think its possible i messed up the pre amp in the radio if it even has one, and if it doesnt what could be making it do this??? thanks