The brake pedal is hooked up to a sensor and it has a rubber stopper connected to it but it dry rotted.. so I need to get a new one but dont know where to get it.

 

The rubber stopper for the brake light switch?

46584-S0100, $2.11 each at Courtesy

Shouldn't be much more at your local dealer, or you could just go to a junkyard and pull one.

 

Once again pmohr you are the man!! thats it!

 

Pmohr if youre ever in Miami Let me know im buying you some drinks.

 

i knew it was possible... i just didnt know how much money i would be spending to make it happen. thats why i bought it, and non the less, considering what i paid for a motor and trans, i can turn it over for a lot of proffit. i have done some research but not much. i have a full time job a part time job and i am a full time engineering student, i dont spend day in and day out on the computer lookin at "how to's". im 18. i dont know the ins and outs of cars. i know enough to keep my car running and i know enough people who can help me with what i dont know. just lookin for advice. and to be honest, you are no help what so ever. there is a way to say the same thing that you did without being an @$$ about it. think befor you speak. you are plain rude and a worthless excuse for a person... but it really does show the kind of charactor you have. pathetic.

 

if anyone other than this guy can help me im still looking for some info.

 

Do you need to spend 'day in day out'? No, if you actually look for the information, it will take less than 30 minutes to find it and read all the way through, as well as reading the rest of the thread for all of the related questions that have been posted.

Think before I speak? If I didn't think, then my posts would come out unintelligible, with spelling and grammatical mistakes as yours have.

Worthless excuse for a person? Sure.

What is a 'charactor'?

Evading the profanity filter isn't looked well upon around here. No reason to be all childish using symbols instead of letters.
Anyway, just another douche to add to the ignore list; if you're looking for help, you don't insult those that can help you. Had you been civil, yes, I could've given you all of the links you need to find out what you asked.

If you actually do some research, the information is quite easily available.

This guy can help you - http://tinyurl.com/km2f44

If you don't learn how to search, you won't make it very long around here.

 

Is there any way of checking to see if the water pump is bad? I think I found the source of the water gushing. The black inner o-ring was broken. I don't want to replace the water pump if I don't have to. How can I check to make sure its still working?

 

You can check for play in the impeller shaft, but other than that there's no good way. Generally it is just the seals that fail.

You could throw new seals on it and hope that it doesn't leak, which it probably won't. Most opt to replace the entire pump due to it's location and relative inaccessibility.

Oil o-ring:
21049-31U04, $4.21 each at Courtesy

Coolant o-ring:
21049-31U03, $4.21 each at Courtesy

 

Hey everyone I've been lurking on this site for many years. I own a 96 se 5mt. My brother has a 93 se 4at. I'm having a missfire problem with the 93.

Symptoms:

-Power loss and missfire apparent when in drive. As the car warms up, the missfire gets worse. NO CEL's
-Problem has gotten worse and worse as the months went by. A gradual change in performance.
-Coil packs are good. All have perfect resistance and I checked for spark.
-Coolant temp sensor, and tps were checked, all good.
-The MAF isn't outputting any voltage. That makes me think it's bad. The weird thing is that there's no CEL and the car isn't in limp mode (i can rev it as high as I want).
-I suspect the injectors, but the front 3 I know are good (hard to test rears). I inspected all of the spark plugs and cannot see any differene in condition across the board.

Ay ideas?

 

If you're having a problem with a third gen, why are you posting in the 4th gen subforum?

The 3rd gen section has a newbie thread as well, and you'll find many more people familiar with the VE there than you will here.

 

This thread should be renamed to "noobies, ask pmohr a question, he has an answer"

 

My bad guys. I'm always browsing this one because my car is a 4th gen.

 

It's ok. I was not saying you are doing anything wrong. I was just saying that pmohr is the king of this thread, and his knowledge should be noted.

 

Ok, so now im really stumped. Replaced the seals on the pump reinstalled it and its still gushing out. Even with the car off. I pour a jug of water in the radiator and as fast as I pour it in it keeps pouring right back out. What else can I do?? Anyone have any other ideas? Could the water pump itself be the problem? Please help!! Im running out of daylight

 

It's pouring out of the same water pump drain area?

Yes, if the bearings on the water pump are damaged enough, it could leak right through the shaft area and out of the weep hole.

If not the pump itself, it's always possible that the sealant on one of the timing covers is damaged and coolant is leaking past there.

Can you take a picture of exactly where it's leaking from, or better yet a vid?

 

Yeah let me see what I can do... will i be able to post a pic on here even tho I dont have 15 posts?

 

Yes, you can post pics here regardless of post count.

 

 

woah!! lol feel free to resize!!

 

How would we resize an image you have hosted offsite? You need to resize or delete it, it's far too massive to link inline. At the least, just a link to it.

Did you have the pump fully installed at the time? It seems to be too far out in that picture. I'd pull it back out and check the o-rings again, one may have been torn during installation.

Failing that as I said it could be a very bad pump or leaking timing covers.

 

I seated it as best I could. I felt it "click" in. Also the bolt are snugged pretty tightly. I guess ill just have to try putting in a new pump and seeing what that does. If I still get the same thing whats next? If the time cover was leaking wouldnt I have oil in the crankcase?

 

I have a leak. I jacked up the car and was trying to locate leak. Got up for a second jack broke car fell on rotor. I'm alive and writing for help. It looked like it was coming from under the belts but higher then the oil filter. Maybe some kind of seal? Fluid running down inside of left tire. Brake fluid level looks good same for power steering and oil. I had a recall on the car for an alternator in 2006 and they also replaced crank seal maybe it is leaking again? Where is that located?

 

I have a question on my 1996 Maxima, My check engine light came on i got it checked and came back with both o2 sensors bad, What are the bad's with driving your car besides the bad gas milage, the idle is kinda bouncy while at stop light, and i can feel the engine vibrating with a 1 second pause..and keeps going!, runs good tho!

 

elctric radiator fan blowing wrong way; how do i correct the direction?

 

OK guys, got the leak fixed, everything is back together. Went to start the ***** and I have a knock thats coming from the top of the timing chain cover?? Is that normal? Remedies?

 

Err, you should have oil in the oil pan. Do you mean coolant? If so, not necessarily.

The left tire is nowhere near the belts, it's at the end of the trans. Do you mean the right (passenger) tire?

If so, have you actually checked the fluid to see what it is? That'll narrow it down.

The O2s are not at all likely to cause idling issues. Your problem is most likely a coil going bad.

Have you done any modifications at all to that system? Are you sure it's going the wrong way?

It's normal for the chain to make some noise during initial startup due to the tensioner being dry, but it should go away in a few minutes.

 

I am upgrading my interior (97 gle) with a 96 i30. Black leather and woodgrain, and both seats are powered. Stock passenger seat is manual but i see a harness leading up under the seat. My question is if i plug that wire into my new (used) seats will they be powered? Or is it for something else? THX

 

Some are prewired for power seats. Try it and see.

 

Thanks pmohr!! We have success!!

 

Thought so thanks!

 

The fan is blowing towards the engine. My car only heated up on the highway on hot days but now its heating up on highway even at night. At a stop it doesnt overheat. What do you think?

 

You realize that if the fan blew towards the radiator, it would be going against airflow while driving?

That's the proper direction, to pull air through the condenser and radiator.

 

Okay. Well why does it overheat on the highway and not the city? Should i get my radiator flushed?

 

First off i work at dtc, you can go with the other options because 215/55/16 is not the most common. And were dealing with mm here so not that big of difference. Goodyear is a great brand but you have their lowest quality tire. If you want to stay with gy's i would prefer the gt, its a newer style and it has awesome performance, another tire i recommend is yokohama (yk520). The part about breaking the bank remember you get wat you pay for. I have had both of these tires on my personel car.

 

I have a 1999 nissam maxima i just replaced the front bearings and it makes noise when i turn the wheel and the noise came back again what can it be

 

Did you bleed the system at all, or just fill it up and call it done?

Shall we assume you mean the wheel bearings?

What sort of noise does it make when you turn the wheels? Is this stationary, while driving? Any relationship to engine speed or vehicle speed? Change while accelerating or braking, or just coasting?

What other noise 'came back again'?

 

A small quiz: the battery light came on, and I haven't a clue what could be wrong.
The manual just say, contact service.

suggestions ?

 

Have you done the obvious and checked the battery and alternator??? Your local big parts store will probably check it for free btw.

 

[quote=pmohr;7165063]Did you bleed the system at all, or just fill it up and call it done?

I went to get my radiator flushed at a shop and since my radiator was plastic there was a possibility of breaking it during the flush which was $60 so i just put a nw one in for $130 and now the madmax is runnin like a champ!