No it came from same Maxima, what i said was that my last car was a 3 speed automatic.

WHAT TRANSMISSION FLUID DOES THIS 95 MAXIMA TAKE? FROM AUTOZONE? I WANNA RUN AMSOIL BUT WHAT KIND? THANKS

 

I have a 97 se 5 speed. I purchased a 3.5 with 6 speed from a friend out of a 2002. I am a little confused about the timing ring, most of the forums focus on the tranny swap with a 3.o or a 3.5 swap with the 5 speed. I would just keep the 5 speed however the syncros are going and i got a deal on this combo. Will i need to get with travis and order his bolt on timing ring or can i mod one that i already have. Besides the ring i also need the the cam gear spacers which seem hard to get with one member making them. I plan to do the swap after thanksgiving and am trying to get all the hard to get parts. Can I just solder the 3.5 CPS to the 3.0 harness?

 

Well the first question, are you going hybrid or full swap?

 

I plan to use the 3.0 ecu, so hybrid. I dont have the cluster, pedals, and all else the full requires. I do have ecu and engine harness from the 3.5 so i can use those connectors.

 

hello everyone , new to maximas . i have a 99 se . I put new axles in and had an alignment and balance of the wheels and tires. after putting the axles in i have a wobble in the steering wheel and shifter(5speed) at all speeds when coasting or accleration. Seems worst when i start to pull of from a light Im not new to forums and this one looks to be very informative. Does anybody have any suggestions i have no idea where to start.
i want to upgrade several parts of my car and this looks to be a good source of knowledge here. thanks cain

 

Hi everyone

I looked through this forum but didn't find anything like my problem, so I thought I'd try posting.

I have a 96 maxima (automatic), had it for about 6-7 years now. Yesterday it started jerking as I was driving home. It jerked when I was accelerating (roughly 2000 rpms). I had to take my foot off the accelerator and coast for a few seconds to make the jerking go away, then I could drive as normal (although somewhat tentatively). It happened twice last night. And a couple more times today. It doesn't always happen, ie. I can't necessarily re-create the problem at will. But I think it happened mostly when I was acceleration from a slow position, eg. just finished making a turn.

Does anyone have any ideas as to what may be causing this problem? The research I've done so far indicates anything from fuel injector to MAF to spark plugs.

Thanks !!

 

Did these problems occur immediately after installing the axles, or after the alignment/balance?

New or reman axles? I'd swap them out again, preferably with new units.

Codes? Have you done any maintenance since you've had it?

 

I haven't done any major maintenance, just tuneups, brakes, shocks and that kind of thing. No work has been done on the engine. Oh, a belt was replaced about 8-9 months ago, but that's about it. I'm not sure what you mean by "codes"?

One thing I should add (which I originally didn't think was relevant, but hey, you never know) is that I'm also having trouble with the A/C / heater / coolant. Coolant leaks, but always retains a minimal amount (about an inch or so stays in the reservoir). Heater takes about 10 mins to start to get warm. A/C seems to leak as well because if I fill it in the summer it's good for a month or two and then it's not cold anymore.

 

So in the last 7 years, you've never had the plugs changed? You say 'tuneup', but then say that nothing has been done to the engine, so I wonder what you consider to be a 'tuneup'.

Codes, meaning are you throwing any codes.

Don't look at the reservoir, coolant level in the reservoir is all but irrelevant. You need to check level in the radiator itself.

 

Yes, I've had the spark plugs changed. I guess I'm bad with my terminology, sorry about that. I meant that other than tuneups, I haven't had any major work done on the engine. I think the last tuneup and spark plug change was about 6 months ago. I think all my mechanic does when he does a tuneup is change the plugs anyway, and maybe check fluid levels.

Thanks for the info re the coolant in the radiator, I will check that out.

Re: codes, there's no warning lights or anything if that's what you mean.

 

reman axles , i think it is one of the axles now , im about to put a clutch in it so ill buy some new axles and try them. thanks for the advice.

 

I need to know what kind of tranny I have, now I know how to check using the plate near the firewall with the VIN number but I do not have the original tranny is my car. The plate says I have a VLSD but I am coming to a conclusion that it may not have one in this newer tranny. Is there any codes on the transmission itself that say if it is a VLSD or just an open diff?

 

Why do you believe that the new trans has an open diff?

Auto or 5MT?

 

5MT, well my brother and his friends provoked me to do a burnout the other day and they said only one wheel was spinning the whole time.

So after that I looked and there was only one tire skid mark. Hense possibly all the power was transfered to one side after the other side starting spinning.

 

www.raxles.com

 

Turns out the radiator is leaking pretty bad. Is it actually possible that the lack of coolant could cause my car to lurch like that?

 

I have been trying to change my belts however I have two problems.
The serpentine belt does not go straight on as the crankshaft pulley is towards the car more than the other pulleys(causes belt to slip and only run on 5\6 teeth) which is also blocking the path of where I need to put the power steering belt.

 

hey pmohr in ur how to change ur knock sensor what extesion and sockets and items u used to get under the manifold ...sounds like u were mumbling

 

Unlikely.

So have you actually checked for codes, or are you relying on the CEL? Are you sure the CEL even works?

Next step I'd take is testing the coils and injectors.

Have you checked the crank pulley for play? The rubber in between the two halves breaks down over time, if yours is bad it'll eventually split in two while you're driving.

You can see exactly what I'm using, just some extensions, a universal, and a socket.

 

 

uh the name???

 

The name of...what?

If you want an answer, try actually being descriptive, and asking a proper question.

 

If it's a hard 1-2 shift and you're an auto, it's a bad line pressure solenoid valve which is located in the transmission.

As stated in previous posts, do you have a check engine light?

 

It's a 12mm socket. You can use a 12mm wrench or a flex socket and an extension (probably at least 6 inches).

Look at the how-to thread for a good write up with nice pics.

 

Sorry, school takes a lot of time... look above for pmohr's first post on this page and check his how to vids. He has one on how to check ur engine codes

 

NTB Mud Guards for a 1999 Maxima

 

I have a 96 GLE auto with no upgrades and was thinking about installing an intake and exhaust. Not looking to spend and arm and a leg, and would like to install myself if possible. Was looking at an Injen cold air intake. Would like a noticeable power increase without a large sound increase. Does anyone have any suggestions?

 

Are you looking to get the entire exhaust? Y-pipe, cat back, muffler?

Don't get the injen intake. It sits behind the radiator and is more like a hot air intake. If you want a CAI, get the place racing CAI.

 

You're going to get more sound with any intake you install. If you want the best overall power and the lowest overall sound, then stay stock. Otherwise, the only CAI you should be looking at is a PRCAI, as said.

Intake/exhaust aren't going to do much at all, I hope you realize.

 

then look in the classifieds.

 

I haven't checked for codes, I'm still not even sure what that means. Does that mean hooking up the computer?

It also took me some time to figure out what CEL meant as well, but I guess that's the Check Engine Light. For me, that light sometimes goes on and then goes off by itself without any work being done on the vehicle.

Over the weekend, I brought the car in to my mechanic. He replaced the radiator (which I kind of had a feeling needed replacing anyway). However regarding the car lurchiing, he suspected the fuel filter. He said it was really dirty, which in turn could cause a drop in fuel pressure. Does that sound plausible?

On a sort of funny note, he replaced the fuel filter as well. This morning, halfway on my trip while driving to work, the Check Engine Light came on (it hasn't been on throughout any of the car jerking problems).


EDIT: I was browsing around this forum and found the thread about checking the codes. I'll do that tonight. I gotta say this forum is great, I'm learning lots and having fun with it too !!

 

From a stop, accelerate like you normally would and just notice if the jerk is when your transmission shifts from 1st gear to 2nd gear, but not during the shifts thereafter (unless you come to a stop again)?

Checking your engine light is easy. All you need is a screwdriver. Just follow the directions that are on this site.

WARNING: Be careful when rotating the screw, not to put too much torque on the screw or it will break.

 

Quick question after searching, not worth making a thread imo....

For a 5 speed maxima, clicking when I'm in reverse sometimes means that the CV Joint is on it's way out? I was told the boot was bad, and I was gonna get to it this weekend, but is it already too late?

 

Clicking when you're riding the clutch, when you put the shifter in reverse, only when you're moving?

If it's only in reverse, I'd be looking at worn motor mounts and something contacting the hood or another stationary part, personally. First step is to find exactly where the click is coming from.

 

::EDIT:: I'm making a thread, this wasn't as simple as I thought then...

 

Found my power steering belt tensioner bolt has broken and was wondering if anyone knew either the length and size if I can get a hardware store or the part number

 

It should be in this exploded view:
http://www.courtesyparts.com/maxima-...1888_1893.html

I think

 

The tensioner is in 493, not 490: http://www.courtesyparts.com/maxima-...1888_1895.html

Assuming he's talking about the long vertical bolt that adjusts the tension on the PS belt, then the part number is 11719-31U00, $4.74 @ Courtesy.

 

Heeellllo Everyone!

I am a noob here! (as you can tell) A couple of my buddies are on this forum and told me about this.
I just recently purchased a 1995 Maxima Se from my good friend thats on this Forum.
It has 163k and I just put in a new clutch and replaced the left axle.

here is a picture of my new car Casper.

 

I checked the codes, and I got 1106 (Automatic Transmission 4th gear malfunction) and 0304 (Knock Sensor). I can't say I've noticed any malfunction shifting into 4th, but then again this car is mostly for city driving and I rarely get to higher speeds anyhow.

Question: are these codes always right, or do they sometimes give false readings? The reason I ask is because I wonder the CEL sometimes goes on and then off, etc.

I tried that, but the problem isn't happening anymore. I don't know if the fuel filter thing fixed the problem, but it seems ok now regarding the lurching.

But even when it was happening, I do believe it may have coincided with shifting from 1st to 2nd. However it didn't happen all the time, only a few times.