upon removal of the starter. there is definately oil getting into the flywheel area, which would explain why it leaks from the cover...how is it getting in there?!

 

If it's actually dripping off the starter and heavily visible at the top of the bellhousing, it could be VC gaskets or a head gasket leaking from an oil gallery. More likely it's an upper oil pan seal underneath the RMS leaking and being flung everywhere.

 

Hi,
Have '98 with 129,017 with a nasty rattle noise heard upon hard accelration, more so when engine is cold. I have read about the "possible timing chain" issues that others have discussed.

Now my question, is it really necassary to remove both oil pans just to get the frt cover off the engine? Hoping that some one who has done this job before knows of a way to cheat the job and save some time.

Thanks

 

The lower oil pan is absolutely required, unless you were looking to take the timing cover out in more than one piece. There are two bolts that come up through the upper pan into the timing cover, only accessible with the lower off.

You can R&R the timing cover without removing the upper pan, yes. Some say there's a high risk of an oil leak where the two meet, though personally having done this, I haven't had a problem with it. Due to the locating pins for the front cover, it must be slid straight in to place; not the best way to ensure the upper oil pan seal correctly mates with the lower section of the cover, but with care it can be done.

 

Just one more question, why is it necassary to remove the lower intake manifold? I know the upper part has to come off but can't see a reason for removing the lower half.

thanks in advance

 

To just remove the front cover, you don't even have to touch the intake manifolds, upper or lower. In the FSM they have you remove the valve covers to hold the cams with a wrench while removing the cam gear bolt, but I've never had an issue using an impact on them, YMMV.

Looking at the way the FSM goes through the steps, they're going for a complete tear down, in which case the LIM would have to come off in order to remove the heads. Just the front cover, absolutely no need to touch any of that.

Drop the accessories, crank pulley, motor mount, and zip out all the bolts. Easy job, just tedious; I've done it two or three times in-car and it sucks, but it's not a 'hard' job by any means. The worst part about it is probably getting the front cover back in place and bolted up without getting RTV absolutely everywhere.

 

im thinking of buying a 1998 Maxima that has a bit of rust on the driver side doors. I currently have a 1995 maxima with the body almost rotted out. I was wondering if i can put the doors from the 1995 onto the 1998, if they will fit or not. Thanks!

 

All doors from 95 to 99 are the same. It will fit.

 

thank you very much!

 

I just purchased a 97' GLE Auto w/ 199,500 miles. It's got some issues to resolve that I get. Needs both CV Shafts, and sway bar link, and rear struts are gone. I paid $950 USD for it so I'm not afraid of spending some on getting it back in shape. It does have another major issue though, I've done some searching and will continue to but I'm starting to get dizzy

It doesnt want to start. It'll crank over for a long while and eventually thus far it has started. Previous owner did tell me it has stalled at stop lights, but I've not experienced this. I replaced the MAF with one from a salvage yard with seemingly ZERO change in symptoms. Once it's running it seems fine, smooth idle and seems to have decent power as well. I dont think my check engine light even works though(doesnt come on with key turned forward). Also, I noticed the down stream O2 sensor is bad(physically damaged), but from my reading that shouldnt have much of an effect on it's performance only toss a code? Hope you guys can help a noobie on the forum lol. Thanks!


Found a band crank position REF sensor, open load, coil actually shining through the plastic, hopefully a new one will solve my problem!

 

Hello all i would like to know the stock piping size for a 95se5spd i keep reading and searching and i get conflicting numbers and i dont want to get the wrong ID size or reducer and have to go back to the store to get different muffler- thanks

 

Hey Guys. New to the forum. I have a 2000 Maxima. I just got Tokico Illumina's and S-Tech Springs that are going to lower the car by 1.4 inches all around. I am looking into getting Enkei EDR9's in 17 or 18's. Will the 18's cause fender rub? And also, I would perfer they just fit on (no customization). What is the best width and offset to use? Width options are 7, 7.5 or 8 and offset is either 45mm or 38mm. Thanks for the help. Need to know so I can order.

 

Depends where you measure it, really. General consensus is that most piping is 2 1/4.

Wrong section, post here: http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...on-thread.html

 

I Have a 95 max. Anytime im driving im hearing like the door is open as if air coming in. i have no idea where the air is comin in from

 

Did you check all your window weatherstripping?

 

I am having problems with the heat in my 98 maxima. If the car sits still the temp gauge comes up and the heat is great. When the car is moving the temp gauge drops, sometimes below the 'cold' indication, and the hot air goes away. This does not sound like a thermostat problem to me. Could it need a simple coolant flush or is the heater core acting up? Open to any suggestions....

 

Nope. It's your themostat. It's stuck open. So, at idle, cooant is warmed up sufficiently. However, when you're driving around, it doesn't close like it should and the coolant gets too cold.

http://www.courtesyparts.com/21200-t...-p-130206.html

It's a cheap part, but you'll have to change your coolant too (which probably isn't a bad thing). Hit up the local dealer and grab some coolant and the thermostat then the grocery store and get some distilled water. That's about it. Search the forum for how to change the coolant or check your FSM.

 

hey im posting for my nephew he has a 99 4th gen maxima 5sp and the other day he was driving it and the car shut off on him and wouldn't start, it cranks over nice and strong but nothing, i have check the fuel pressure and it has pressure also checked to see if it has spark and there is no spark... i have been told that is the little black box next to the ignition cylinder that reads the chip key but not sure what it could be i have replaced the crank and cam sensor with the ones on my 98 SE and wont start still if any one has any ideas to help thanks

 

The immobilizer disables injector pulse, not spark.

Have you checked all fuses? Checked for power at the ECU? Checked for codes?

 

hi, im currently working on my dads 1995 maxima, im trying to replace the sparkplugs, but i have NO IDEA how to remove the upper plenum to get at them. Can anyone help me quickly???

If possible can you provide some illustrated pictures? That would help a lot! Thanks!

EDIT: i removed 2 bolts from the back that were the support brackets, and i removed the 2 bolts, 2 nuts in the front.. it moves, but something is still holding it down... blahh i need to get this done quick.

 

http://www.youtube.com/user/boredmde...21/v-iM5_C9Vh0

 

No need to remove the UIM!! Remove the coilpacks (2 brass screws each) to access the spark plugs. Done!!

 

I have a question concerning my 1998 Nissan Maxima. My car is extremely hard to start at times and I know most people claim it could be the starter, but I refuse to believe it is my starter. Sometime I see white smoke coming from my muffler when this hard start problem occurs, but I am not losing any coolant and my oil and coolant is not mixing. I also hear a rumbling noise whenever my car is difficult to start. Could this be a timing chain problem? Could it be a PCV problem? Would a bad timing chain tensioner cause starting problems? I had a mechanic look at it, but he could not identify the problem. I guess I will take my car to the Nissan dealership for a diagnostic test, then take it to someone else if it’s not to expensive to fix…I already have many repairs that need to be done like rack and pinion, real main seal, cv boots/axle and I need to replace the blower in the AC. I brought the car used, so I don’t know much about the history. Any ideas on the hard start issue? I would greatly appreciate it.

 

Quick quesiton. I read all the posts I can on Knock sensors and I still need your help. Its for a 99 Maxima SE.

I do not have any engine lights on... however when I scan the ECU I do get the code P0325.

I attempted the resistor test and can't get any readings from the Knock Sensor.

If I clear the code, sometime, it will not let me and sometimes it will but come back after a few minutes of driving.

I ordered a replacement knock sensor from ebay, still waiting, .. likely next week.. it should arrive.

I would like to get the knock sensor sub harness as well but am finding it hard to find the right part. I even called two Nissans here and they couldn't find the part for me.

Does anyone know, the part number and or a place that I can get the harness for the knock sensor?

Guess the other question, is, am I way off the mark in replacing the knock sensor and the harness?

Thanks so much for your help

 

i have checked all the fuses and they all fine ive checked the ground to the ecu and it is grounded.. he had a check engine light on but they said that it was both o2 sensors were bad but thats it...im just running out of things to chek on it...

 

hey um new to this site just registerd, now i am a current owner of a 2001 nissan se 20th anniversary maxima i jus bought with onli 57k now i current ran into a problem with my catalytic converter now i have no idea if i have 1 or more now ineed some info plz. and i would like to also try and figure out what are some major problems i will run into in the near future with my maxima plz any info would be very much apprecitated thanks in advance names rick. and its good to be on this site. herd nothing but good about it

 

Wrong subforum, post here: http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...on-thread.html

Call Dave B, he'll get it for you, and for cheap(er than most anywhere else).

Have you checked for power and ground at the coils? Checked to see if the ECU is sending a signal to fire?

 

Seriously? You post in the wrong section, then bump after an excruciating 15 minutes?

I have two things to tell you:

1. Read the subforum titles, it says right there what years are what generation, and where you should post.
2. Be patient. This is a forum, not a chat room; if you expect an instant response, look elsewhere.

 

Any advice on my question?

 

First step is to do some likely overdue maintenance, clean the TB and IACV. Add a ground from the battery to one of the starter bolts, see if it helps your starting situation.

 

oh okay thanks

 

hey so i guess ill get straight to the question when i accelerate my car pulls to the right and when i let go of the gas it pulls to the left the car has been aligned what do you guys think it could be

 

can some one tell me how to remove the upper plenum?.. with detailed instructions?

 

In the "How to" section
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...im-w-pics.html

 

THANK YOU VERY MUCH (I THINK I LOVE YOU) lol

caps were on purpose btw.

 

Thanks so much, I was able to find it after lots of searching. This is a great site. Thanks. Go Maxima Go!!

http://www.courtesyparts.com/24079-harness-assy-egi-sub-maxima-a32b-1995-1999-p-130866.html

 

hello, im new to the forum; i was wondering if someone could help me with an issue with my 1998 maxima 144,000 miles. question is having bad "carbon-gas" like fumes when i start the ignition and somtimes while driving so bad that i have to roll the windows down. could someone please help me out. Thanks in advance.

 

If you have had an alignment recently and haven't done anything to take it out of alignment (hit curb, small child, etc) then check your calipers, one may be seized. As for the pulling to the right, keep in mind the crown of the road and that most maximas just do it.

Check for exhaust leaks.

 

Most likely an exhaust leak at the converter or resonator that's letting exhaust gases come up into the cabin.

Check your LCA bushings, most likely the right side forward bushing. It tends to degrade with the PS and oil leaks most of these cars have, and leads to throttle-induced steering pulls. While you have it up in the air, shake down the front end to see if anything has play.

 

1999 Se Misfire on #2 Cyl. Codes P0300-P0302-P1320. Replaced Coil pack 3 times, still misfire. Unplugged coil packs as car ran and no difference on idle on number 2 cyl. I took coil pack 6 and swapped with Cyl 2. Still #2 cyl is not firing. What could this be?