wat?

Check your respective regional forum for local meets.

 

Ask in your specific regional forum, not here.

There's Maxus, check the General forum for that.

 

Thanks for the tip, one of the mechanics I went too said he would have to remove the entire dash to get to it and it's not a small job. So Thanks again, he's probably trying to squeeze me for some more dough.

 

Hey guys,

I just bought my first maxima at the end of November. A super black 98 SE with only 81,000 miles, leather, bose, the works and I love it!

The seller informed me before I'd even seen the car that the ABS light was on and even gave me the quote a local shop had given him for the repair. I've lived in northern/central NY for 20+ years never owning a car with ABS so I wasn't too worried. I also wasn't that excited about the price on the quote.

Even though the car looked like it had been babied, I went through a number of the quick 60k tune-up steps over the first two weeks (plugs, cleaned MAF & TB & IACV, etc.) and resolved a cold starting problem it was having. Soon after this, the ABS light started to turn off for short periods but would usually come back during the same trip. I caught a CEL and I threw on my ODBII and found an O2 and a knock code. I reset the code to see if it would come back and when I turned the car back on the ABS light was out and hasn't come back to this day. (neither has the knock)

So, my questions are:

Was it fluke that the ABS light is now completely gone or does reseting a CEL reset the ABS also?

Though my ABS light is now off and I've actually had the pleasure of the system working whenever I stop hard in deep snow, should I be worried about it having been on in the first place?

Thanks!

 

Resetting the CEL has nothing to do with the ABS light. Next time the light is on, you should check the ABS system for codes to see if it's a wheel speed sensor or something else.

If you don't care about the ABS, then nothing worry about. Though I'd either fix it for good, or just permanently disable it; you don't want the braking characteristics changing day to day, or even worse while you're on the brakes.

 

Hey All- I have always been a fan of Pioneer head sets and speakers and am looking to hook up a system on my Maxima. Any one have any suggestions for some brands outside of Pioneer that sound good. I want to try something different this time and looking for some opinions.

 

thanks for the reply. but i figured it out. i asked around and i was told it was off alignment. so i got a hydralic jack, a piece of wood, and a 12 mm socket wrench. i loosend the bolts, jacked the door up and tightened it up. took about 3 tries to get it right. but its done

 

I have the shakey steering wheel issue at high speeds above 60mph. I know it can't be the tires because I replaced the front tires with new ones, tested and still shook. Then I swapped front tires to the back and still shook. Only thing that looks damaged is torn boots in rack. Could this be the problem? How can I test the rack so that I don't have to replace it if not necessary?I would like to start with smaller things.

 

Is only on acceleration? Decel? Cruise? All 3?

Did you check the balance on the wheels?

Check all of the front end bushings and suspension components. Torn bellows won't cause shaky steering.

 

NEW QUESTION!! lol. well i went for an alignment a about a week or 2 ago. they told me my camber was off on the passenger side do to my accident..

they told my i need to install camber bolts on the front to adjust the camber. is that all true or is there a way camber can be adjusted without these camber bolts.

btw my camber was at 0.8 on the drivers side and 1.3 on passengers.

 

You could loosen the strut-knuckle bolts and see if you get enough play with the stock equipment in place. If you absolutely don't want to do camber bolts, you could notch the strut tower a bit to slide the top of the strut around.

The camber is likely off because something's bent, if they can't get it back with just adjusting at the strut-knuckle.

 

they told me it was off cause something was bent lol. but what exactly do i do about that? and its not that i dont want to, it just seemed to me there must be another way. if i have to i will. i just wanted to see if there was a way around it. they charge $57 a camber bolt installed but then if i get 2 and an alignment then my total is gonna be about 180. if theres a way to save money im all about it. lol


also another question i have is would a busted strut mount cause a scraping sound and bouncing after a bump? i figured my strut was blown but then i hear it might not be the strut, it might be the strut mount.

 

You replace whatever component is bent...

I didn't say don't do camber bolts, but that's just masking the real problem of a bent suspension component.

 

yeah i read it wrong and went back and edited. its late, im a lil tired.

 

It takes literally 5 minutes to install a camber bolt per side, then alignment time. Though that $57 is probably parts and labor, but even so that's a lot.

But again, installing camber bolts is just covering up a bent suspension component. Do it once, do it right.

A busted strut mount could cause odd noises, yes. The bouncing is most likely just a blown strut though.

 

not to be annoying but what exactly do you think could be bent? could it be the strut and strut mount? after the accident i replaced the cv axle, lower control arm, and inner and outer tie rod.


heres the damage, sorry for HUGE crappy cell phone pics










and this is everything that was replaced



idk wtf happened to this pic btw lol

 

Strut being bent is definitely a possibility. Especially given that you're got excessive positive camber, and that's the direction the strut would've been bent in your accident.

If you've got a spare hour I'd pull it and lay a straight edge, it'll likely be bent ouwards.

 

im just gonna assume it is. its the only part that i didnt think about replacing. i will just pick one up soon and swap it and let you know from there. thanks for the help.

 

I have replaced both my head lights because one was out and for some strange reason. My parking lights and low beams work but when I turn on my HI beams they both go out! Any ideas? Thanks

 

By parking lights do you mean the corners next to the headlights?

Do you have stock headlights or R34s/Cefiros/etc? All stock wiring?

Is this just on flashing the high beams, or having the high beams on constantly?

 

Sorry to clarify I replace my headlight bulbs with 9004 type and my low beams work but when i turn on or flash my hi beams they don't turn on. Stock headlights and stock wiring on passenger side and on driverside I had to splice it and attach another headlight harness because the bulb was burning out the prongs on the connector.

 

First a little background, I drive a 98 max GLE and have been loving it for over two years. Well it is getting up there in age and in mileage and It has been developing some problems. I did the whole, clean the EGR tube thing about a month ago, which got rid of my 0302 code. Shortly afterwards however the CEL came back on with some new codes, one of which was an O2 sensor. Since I was not going to tackle the rear O2 sensor for fear of breaking something I brought the car to the mechanic and he came up with a theory, after running some diagnostics and checking the O2 sensor with a voltmeter.

He believes that there could be some broken wires on the engine wiring harness. I did a search and read through a lot of threads that involved a broken engine harness, and my car does exhibit the shuddering upon braking that was a common issue.

Now for my question; has anyone ever had a problem that was diagnosed to be related to the engine harness and had it fixed by either replacing the harness, or just the broken wires. The threads that come up in the search do not conclusively say that the engine harness was/was not the problem. Any suggestions or feedback will be appreciated.

Keith

p.s. The mechanic is a family friend, and myself and about a dozen other family members have been going to this guy for a long time. He is very well qualified and I trust that he would not be trying to scam me.

 

There's a TSB about the engine harness where it turns near the right side strut tower, it's been known to cause problems for a long time.

If he diagnosed it as a faulty harness and you trust him, what's the problem? Either have him repair or replace the engine harness.

 

Does anyone know where I can find the TSB, I have searched for it and found that TSB 98008b seems to be what pmohr is talking about, but I cannot find anywhere to actually view it.

 

You need an account to view TSBs most places, like Mitchell or AllData.

http://boredmder.com/pics/maxima.org/98008b.pdf

 

Do I have to get a coil spring compressor AND the strut spring compressor to install new suspension or can I use one or the other to do the Job. Whats the major difference between the two types of compressors?

Thanks

 

Same thing, just different terms.

 

Thats what I thought but the peeps up at autozone said they were different and i needed to get both kinds..i was like....WHAT!?!?

 

So im starting to get some lag when trying to accelerate from a moderate speed. The RPM's move up a bit than back down before i get any acceleration. I have a 96 5 speed with a short ram thats it. Im really bummed out that this is happening, specially since i just realized it on the drive home from getting the lower core support fixed. Does anyone know what I can do to fix this?

 

Sounds like your clutch is slipping. Still on the original clutch?

 

It is still the original clutch, but it almost sounds like the engine is lagging, wouldnt think its the clutch but maybe your right

 

The engine can't 'lag' by revving up without acceleration. If you were an auto, maybe, but not on a 5MT.

So it's like this? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hMkVCne-HCw

Take it out for a drive, throw it in 5th at a relatively low speed 40, 50ish, and go WOT. If it's going to slip, you'll see it then.

 

Yea it does the same thing as the video....guess its time to get my dad to show me how to change a clutch, thanks pmohr

 

My 96 Maxima accelerates on its own and will not slow down when I have been driving on the interstate. The only way to stop it is to pull over on the shoulder hit the brakes and then kill the car. I replaced the IACV, since this is what my mechanic told me the code was. Well all was well for a week and it happened again yesterday. Also when this happens and I kill the car, when I start the car back up the engive revs up extremely high and I have to immediately kill it . After a few times starting and killing the car it goes back to normal. I am driving over 70mph when this has happened everytime.
I have searched on the internet and have yet to find an answer. Please help. Also I am not mechanically inclined at all.

 

Any codes? Are you hitting the throttle at all when you're restarting the car? Could be a sticky throttle cable, or it could still be an IACV problem.

 

its probably a sticky throttle cable as mentioned,on one of my cars it happened to me, there was rubber around the throttle cable that started to melt so it made it stick, was actually pretty scary you check that out asap

 

Hard Cold Start becomes No Crank. Also Electrical Buzz.

Got a 96 A/T. As the outside temp began to drop the car become harder to start until finally it wouldn't start at all. Replaced the battery with a known good one and still nothing. I get a single click from the starter and that's it. Starter is about 6 months old.

Checked the fusible link and fuses, all good. When the ignition is 'ON' I hear a hum/buzz that sounds very much like the noise made by one of those external battery chargers in the area of the starter.
Guessing it was the solenoid I pulled the starter. To make sure, I turned the ignition to 'ON' but the buzz remains.

Still have to bench test the starter. The ground from battery 'looks' good. Dashboard lights up fine as do headlights.

It's been damn cold up here so my opportunities to check things out are limited.

Anybody have any thoughts on the buzz and whether it relates to my single click starter.

Only code showing up initially is knock sensor. After pulling the starter also got a p0110 (IATS).

epilogue: replaced the starter under warranty and the car boots easily.
Crazy-assed noise still present.

 

OK, I have the code that is being given off and it is P0505-Idle Control System Malfunction.
Like I said already I changed the IACV ( OEM part) and no I am not touching the throttle at all when I start it and it revs all the way up. Someone told me it could be the Throttle Position Sensor but the only code is P0505 and not one for the TPS. Any other ideas on what to do?

 

I just put a y-pipe on my car and noticed that i lost alot of mid range tourqe what can i do to gain the power back ??

 

Could be the starter (bench test it, new one could be DOA), ignition switch. Is it a constant buzz? If it only happens for a second or so, it's likely just the IACV.