NOOBIES: "I AM NEW HERE BUT HAVE A QUESTION" thread. Read FIRST post BEFORE posting!
01-08-2010, 08:20 PM
#5241
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Philadelphia, PA
Posts: 8
Speaking of the check engine light, when I got mine, it was already on, and it said O2 sensor, but even getting a new one, the check engine light goes on and off every few hundred miles. is there anything I can do about that?
01-08-2010, 08:45 PM
#5242
Cylinder 3 mis-fire.
I've been trying to resolve an issue with my 1995 Nissan Maxima.
Initially and still we have been smelling Gas. And are suffering a mis-fire on Cylinder 3.
The story.
One day I thought to look, under the hood, and I saw GAS smoking on the fuel line, right around Cylinder 2, it appeared to be coming out of the Injector, or very close by, so I thought hey kill two birds with one stone, take a new Injector with me to the "Dealership" and have them pop it in. (I tried to swap it myself, but the injector was stuck pretty bad)
They popped it in Cylinder 2(FRONT MIDDLE). No change occurred so they did a Engine Compression Check. -6RPM on No.3
Dealer told me it was Probably the Cylinder 3 Injector(Back Middle) .
So I took it to a mechanic to have them pop in the Injector #3 at sub-dealer pricing.
He first swapped coils to see if the mis-fire moved. It did not so that ruled out the coils.
He put the new injector in #3.
No Change. He asked me when the last time I had changed the spark plugs...
It's been at least 5 years so...
So about 1 week later we changed the spark-plugs, fuel filter, and PCV.
We noticed three things.
1. The PCV did not rattle when removed, in which he stated means it may have been stuck.
2.The front easily accessible line from the engine to the air filter box had a broken connector (connector on air filter box was broke off).
3.Looks of dried oil around the engine gasket. I told him that the last guy had me buy a manifold gasket, but then sequentially told me it was brand new.
After the new injector in #3 was put in, the engine ran rough, one random day, it ran perfect, then not long after (1 Day) ran rough again.
After changing the spark plugs, fuel filter, PCV. The car still seems to have the misfire. Today randomly it started running fine again.
Any ideas on what may be causing this?
When one mechanic pulled all the codes, the ones I can remember are:
Knock Sensor,
Some Computer Warning,
O-2 Sensor
I read alot of post, and the only thing I came across that seems like it may have some merit, is some sort of ECM problem, where it's not communication. I also was thinking about "resetting" the computer, as it has not been done.
The last mechanic left me asking me to buy some "Expensive" Fuel Cleaner and see if it fixes the problem.
I kinda need to figure out what to do if the problem comes right back. (I'm still on my first new tank of gas since the "Tune-Up".
Also the Transmission will sometimes throw some blinks at startup. I replaced the transmission in the last year. The O/D lights 1 long then the rest. I read up this is the: Revolution Sensor. Not sure if this is related.
My home town mechanic told me before I started any repairs, it seems like my Fuel Pressure Regulator.
I was reading something on this. But noticed that when they removed my Fuel Filter, the guy got sprayed and had to hold the line a bit and ease the fuel pressure off. Does that eliminate this?
I've been trying to resolve an issue with my 1995 Nissan Maxima.
Initially and still we have been smelling Gas. And are suffering a mis-fire on Cylinder 3.
The story.
One day I thought to look, under the hood, and I saw GAS smoking on the fuel line, right around Cylinder 2, it appeared to be coming out of the Injector, or very close by, so I thought hey kill two birds with one stone, take a new Injector with me to the "Dealership" and have them pop it in. (I tried to swap it myself, but the injector was stuck pretty bad)
They popped it in Cylinder 2(FRONT MIDDLE). No change occurred so they did a Engine Compression Check. -6RPM on No.3
Dealer told me it was Probably the Cylinder 3 Injector(Back Middle) .
So I took it to a mechanic to have them pop in the Injector #3 at sub-dealer pricing.
He first swapped coils to see if the mis-fire moved. It did not so that ruled out the coils.
He put the new injector in #3.
No Change. He asked me when the last time I had changed the spark plugs...
It's been at least 5 years so...
So about 1 week later we changed the spark-plugs, fuel filter, and PCV.
We noticed three things.
1. The PCV did not rattle when removed, in which he stated means it may have been stuck.
2.The front easily accessible line from the engine to the air filter box had a broken connector (connector on air filter box was broke off).
3.Looks of dried oil around the engine gasket. I told him that the last guy had me buy a manifold gasket, but then sequentially told me it was brand new.
After the new injector in #3 was put in, the engine ran rough, one random day, it ran perfect, then not long after (1 Day) ran rough again.
After changing the spark plugs, fuel filter, PCV. The car still seems to have the misfire. Today randomly it started running fine again.
Any ideas on what may be causing this?
When one mechanic pulled all the codes, the ones I can remember are:
Knock Sensor,
Some Computer Warning,
O-2 Sensor
I read alot of post, and the only thing I came across that seems like it may have some merit, is some sort of ECM problem, where it's not communication. I also was thinking about "resetting" the computer, as it has not been done.
The last mechanic left me asking me to buy some "Expensive" Fuel Cleaner and see if it fixes the problem.
I kinda need to figure out what to do if the problem comes right back. (I'm still on my first new tank of gas since the "Tune-Up".
Also the Transmission will sometimes throw some blinks at startup. I replaced the transmission in the last year. The O/D lights 1 long then the rest. I read up this is the: Revolution Sensor. Not sure if this is related.
My home town mechanic told me before I started any repairs, it seems like my Fuel Pressure Regulator.
I was reading something on this. But noticed that when they removed my Fuel Filter, the guy got sprayed and had to hold the line a bit and ease the fuel pressure off. Does that eliminate this?
Last edited by bc992164; 01-08-2010 at 10:16 PM.
01-09-2010, 03:23 AM
#5243
Cylinder 3 mis-fire.
I've been trying to resolve an issue with my 1995 Nissan Maxima.
Initially and still we have been smelling Gas. And are suffering a mis-fire on Cylinder 3.
They popped it in Cylinder 2(FRONT MIDDLE). No change occurred so they did a Engine Compression Check. -6RPM on No.3
Dealer told me it was Probably the Cylinder 3 Injector(Back Middle) .
Any ideas on what may be causing this?
When one mechanic pulled all the codes, the ones I can remember are:
Knock Sensor,
Some Computer Warning,
O-2 Sensor
I read alot of post, and the only thing I came across that seems like it may have some merit, is some sort of ECM problem, where it's not communication. I also was thinking about "resetting" the computer, as it has not been done.
Also the Transmission will sometimes throw some blinks at startup. I replaced the transmission in the last year. The O/D lights 1 long then the rest. I read up this is the: Revolution Sensor. Not sure if this is related.
My home town mechanic told me before I started any repairs, it seems like my Fuel Pressure Regulator.
I was reading something on this. But noticed that when they removed my Fuel Filter, the guy got sprayed and had to hold the line a bit and ease the fuel pressure off. Does that eliminate this?
I've been trying to resolve an issue with my 1995 Nissan Maxima.
Initially and still we have been smelling Gas. And are suffering a mis-fire on Cylinder 3.
They popped it in Cylinder 2(FRONT MIDDLE). No change occurred so they did a Engine Compression Check. -6RPM on No.3
Dealer told me it was Probably the Cylinder 3 Injector(Back Middle) .
Any ideas on what may be causing this?
When one mechanic pulled all the codes, the ones I can remember are:
Knock Sensor,
Some Computer Warning,
O-2 Sensor
I read alot of post, and the only thing I came across that seems like it may have some merit, is some sort of ECM problem, where it's not communication. I also was thinking about "resetting" the computer, as it has not been done.
Also the Transmission will sometimes throw some blinks at startup. I replaced the transmission in the last year. The O/D lights 1 long then the rest. I read up this is the: Revolution Sensor. Not sure if this is related.
My home town mechanic told me before I started any repairs, it seems like my Fuel Pressure Regulator.
I was reading something on this. But noticed that when they removed my Fuel Filter, the guy got sprayed and had to hold the line a bit and ease the fuel pressure off. Does that eliminate this?
When the codes were pulled, the ones you can remember? What does 'some computer warning' mean?
The OD light blinking at startup is just signaling a problem, not flashing out the code. You need to do the TCM diagnostics for that.
Just because there's some fuel pressure in no way eliminates the FPR, but it's also not a suspicious part here; if there was a major fuel pressure issue, it'd misfire in more than just one cylinder.
Have you tested for signal, power, and ground to both the injector and the coil on cylinder 3?
Get the codes and post back.
01-09-2010, 05:12 AM
#5244
I'll get the codes pulled again. I cannot remember exactly what it says.
I'm probably using the term compression check for the wrong diagnosis.
I have a sheet that says PWR BALANCE DIAG Result.. This is what I referred to as compression check.
No.1 194rpm
No.2 145rpm
No.3-6rpm
No.4 188rpm
No.5 203rpm
No.6 204rpm
I called this a compression check. It is most likely some other type of "power" diagnosis.
The Dealer Mechanic told me that this meant Injector 3 was bad.
We did swap coils, and the problem stayed in Cylinder 3. The coil worked on another Cylinder, so we figured it's not a bad coil.
I actually ran the procedures to pull the Transmission Codes from the Vehicle. That is how I came up with that result.
Is it possible the air filter box with a broken hose adapter to the line from the front of the engine could be causing this type of problem?
How do I do this? How should it properly be done?
I'm probably using the term compression check for the wrong diagnosis.
I have a sheet that says PWR BALANCE DIAG Result.. This is what I referred to as compression check.
No.1 194rpm
No.2 145rpm
No.3-6rpm
No.4 188rpm
No.5 203rpm
No.6 204rpm
I called this a compression check. It is most likely some other type of "power" diagnosis.
The Dealer Mechanic told me that this meant Injector 3 was bad.
We did swap coils, and the problem stayed in Cylinder 3. The coil worked on another Cylinder, so we figured it's not a bad coil.
I actually ran the procedures to pull the Transmission Codes from the Vehicle. That is how I came up with that result.
Is it possible the air filter box with a broken hose adapter to the line from the front of the engine could be causing this type of problem?
How do I do this? How should it properly be done?
01-10-2010, 11:18 AM
#5245
Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Queens, NY
Posts: 48
I looked under my car today and I saw that my Transmission pan around the front is dripping with oil. Upon further inspection I opened my hood and looked at from there and it looks all greasy. I see there is a line or hose that connects to the radiator, and the end of the hose that connects to transmission looks all greasy and filthy from debris that sits on the top of the oil. Its literally all over the the end of the line and nozzle or whatever its called.
Whats up with tis guys?
I have no mechanic experience, what could this be due to?
Whats up with tis guys?
I have no mechanic experience, what could this be due to?
01-10-2010, 04:33 PM
#5246
I'll get the codes pulled again. I cannot remember exactly what it says.
I'm probably using the term compression check for the wrong diagnosis.
I have a sheet that says PWR BALANCE DIAG Result.. This is what I referred to as compression check.
No.1 194rpm
No.2 145rpm
No.3-6rpm
No.4 188rpm
No.5 203rpm
No.6 204rpm
I called this a compression check. It is most likely some other type of "power" diagnosis.
The Dealer Mechanic told me that this meant Injector 3 was bad.
We did swap coils, and the problem stayed in Cylinder 3. The coil worked on another Cylinder, so we figured it's not a bad coil.
I actually ran the procedures to pull the Transmission Codes from the Vehicle. That is how I came up with that result.
Is it possible the air filter box with a broken hose adapter to the line from the front of the engine could be causing this type of problem?
How do I do this? How should it properly be done?
I'm probably using the term compression check for the wrong diagnosis.
I have a sheet that says PWR BALANCE DIAG Result.. This is what I referred to as compression check.
No.1 194rpm
No.2 145rpm
No.3-6rpm
No.4 188rpm
No.5 203rpm
No.6 204rpm
I called this a compression check. It is most likely some other type of "power" diagnosis.
The Dealer Mechanic told me that this meant Injector 3 was bad.
We did swap coils, and the problem stayed in Cylinder 3. The coil worked on another Cylinder, so we figured it's not a bad coil.
I actually ran the procedures to pull the Transmission Codes from the Vehicle. That is how I came up with that result.
Is it possible the air filter box with a broken hose adapter to the line from the front of the engine could be causing this type of problem?
How do I do this? How should it properly be done?
You should either replace the midpipe or block off the hole for the hose there, as it'll be sucking unmetered air; this can very well cause a misfire.
For testing the coils and injectors, follow the directions in the FSM. For the '95, it's EC-120 and EC-245. The FSM can be found through the link in my sig.
I looked under my car today and I saw that my Transmission pan around the front is dripping with oil. Upon further inspection I opened my hood and looked at from there and it looks all greasy. I see there is a line or hose that connects to the radiator, and the end of the hose that connects to transmission looks all greasy and filthy from debris that sits on the top of the oil. Its literally all over the the end of the line and nozzle or whatever its called.
Whats up with tis guys?
I have no mechanic experience, what could this be due to?
Whats up with tis guys?
I have no mechanic experience, what could this be due to?
01-12-2010, 08:12 AM
#5248
The Aftermarket does make that little piece when it is needed. you may want to contact the manufacturer of the exhaust you are considering and ask them.
01-12-2010, 01:33 PM
#5249
Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: St. Charles
Posts: 168
So here's my problem, I've been looking through exhausts for the past month, I've narrowed it down to a couple desings but I know I want a direct bolt on. I've come to realize there's a lot of parts involved in the application of a exhaust system. So my question is, what steps or parts do I need if I purchase a bolt on system. I drive a 98 se and its completly stock. So from front to back what's necessary. Thanks for any input.
01-12-2010, 03:02 PM
#5251
Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: New York
Posts: 25
Hello, Im sure you guys will provide a warm welcome. I cant seem to find the answer to anything im looking for. I finally decided to project my '98 nissan maxima. But, it has well over 150K miles and slipping auto transmission. I have the pay to play. But I cant find ANYTHING ANYWHERE. I cant find myself either a decent VQ30DE with manual tranny package. or even a VQ30DE period. And now i have an interest in a possible VQ35DE swap. Im so swamped with questions i dont know where to start. I guess it would go like this...
Where can I find VQ30DE Engines/Tranny's?? Looked everywhere, cant find them.
Is it possible for Swap a VQ35DE Into a 98 Maxima. If so, is it a direct fit or major modifications Needed (forgive me for this, i dont mean to upset anyone), but isnt the VQ35DE from the 350Z?? hence, is there a drivetrain issue??
Again, please forgive me if these questions have been asked or if their just stupid questions. Im new to the maxima seen, ask me about 240's, civic's, evo's and i know the deal...but maxima is a new field for me. Show mercy ;-)
Glad to be here.
Where can I find VQ30DE Engines/Tranny's?? Looked everywhere, cant find them.
Is it possible for Swap a VQ35DE Into a 98 Maxima. If so, is it a direct fit or major modifications Needed (forgive me for this, i dont mean to upset anyone), but isnt the VQ35DE from the 350Z?? hence, is there a drivetrain issue??
Again, please forgive me if these questions have been asked or if their just stupid questions. Im new to the maxima seen, ask me about 240's, civic's, evo's and i know the deal...but maxima is a new field for me. Show mercy ;-)
Glad to be here.
01-12-2010, 03:45 PM
#5252
Junkyards, eBay, craigslist, the classifieds here, local forums, etc.
http://shop.ebay.com/i.html?_nkw=max...1&_from=&_ipg=
Yes. It's also possible to swap in a B18, a 13b, a VK, etc. It just takes time and money.
Search: http://forums.maxima.org/all-motor/4...swap-info.html
Define 'major'. Depends on how you do it.
No drivetrain issues, but if you go with a RWD VQ it isn't exactly plug and play.
Search: http://forums.maxima.org/all-motor/5...s-lengthy.html
01-12-2010, 08:41 PM
#5254
01-13-2010, 09:25 AM
#5255
i bought a set of stock 06 18 inch maxima rims and tires for my 97 maxima and am going to pick them up tomorow, will the tires on the rims work for my car or will i have to get low profile tires?
01-13-2010, 09:54 AM
#5256
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: New Orleans
Posts: 14
Hi people, I was wondering if anybody could give me some insight on my car problem. My 1995 Maxima check engine light gave me four codes. 1) camshaft position sensor 2) knock sensor 3) evap canister purge control valve/ solenoid valve 4) cyclinder 2 misfire. The car has 140k miles and when I bought it only took me 2 miles before it started acting like it was starving for fuel. Now the car wont start. Please give me wisdom masters from one of youll newbies.
P.S. I already ordered the camshaft postion sensor and knock sensor. Should I order a new fuel injector to?
P.S. I already ordered the camshaft postion sensor and knock sensor. Should I order a new fuel injector to?
Last edited by geraldlieteau; 01-13-2010 at 10:09 AM. Reason: Forgot to add somthing.
01-13-2010, 05:18 PM
#5257
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Inland Empire
Posts: 7
No acceleration but everything else is fine?
Hello All,
My 1996 manual Maxima has finally lost all acceleration. I got the car at 130k, it's now at 170k. In that time I've replaced the knock sensor, MAF and other minor tune up things but this was all at least six months ago.
About a month ago I noticed a decline in the acceleration. The problem started getting worse a week ago as I found it harder to climb up hilly freeways while maintaining my top speed and there was no hope of gaining much speed over 40mph on an incline unless given time.
Today I was driving up a small hill and that was it, once I made it to the top I could barely accelerate. To get the car up to 30mph it took about a mile.
The only other problem is that it has shut off twice on the freeway while going 70mph or so but I was able to restart the engine and keep going.
Any thoughts?
My 1996 manual Maxima has finally lost all acceleration. I got the car at 130k, it's now at 170k. In that time I've replaced the knock sensor, MAF and other minor tune up things but this was all at least six months ago.
About a month ago I noticed a decline in the acceleration. The problem started getting worse a week ago as I found it harder to climb up hilly freeways while maintaining my top speed and there was no hope of gaining much speed over 40mph on an incline unless given time.
Today I was driving up a small hill and that was it, once I made it to the top I could barely accelerate. To get the car up to 30mph it took about a mile.
The only other problem is that it has shut off twice on the freeway while going 70mph or so but I was able to restart the engine and keep going.
Any thoughts?
01-13-2010, 05:27 PM
#5258
Hello All,
My 1996 manual Maxima has finally lost all acceleration. I got the car at 130k, it's now at 170k. In that time I've replaced the knock sensor, MAF and other minor tune up things but this was all at least six months ago.
About a month ago I noticed a decline in the acceleration. The problem started getting worse a week ago as I found it harder to climb up hilly freeways while maintaining my top speed and there was no hope of gaining much speed over 40mph on an incline unless given time.
Today I was driving up a small hill and that was it, once I made it to the top I could barely accelerate. To get the car up to 30mph it took about a mile.
The only other problem is that it has shut off twice on the freeway while going 70mph or so but I was able to restart the engine and keep going.
Any thoughts?
My 1996 manual Maxima has finally lost all acceleration. I got the car at 130k, it's now at 170k. In that time I've replaced the knock sensor, MAF and other minor tune up things but this was all at least six months ago.
About a month ago I noticed a decline in the acceleration. The problem started getting worse a week ago as I found it harder to climb up hilly freeways while maintaining my top speed and there was no hope of gaining much speed over 40mph on an incline unless given time.
Today I was driving up a small hill and that was it, once I made it to the top I could barely accelerate. To get the car up to 30mph it took about a mile.
The only other problem is that it has shut off twice on the freeway while going 70mph or so but I was able to restart the engine and keep going.
Any thoughts?
01-13-2010, 06:09 PM
#5259
Hi people, I was wondering if anybody could give me some insight on my car problem. My 1995 Maxima check engine light gave me four codes. 1) camshaft position sensor 2) knock sensor 3) evap canister purge control valve/ solenoid valve 4) cyclinder 2 misfire. The car has 140k miles and when I bought it only took me 2 miles before it started acting like it was starving for fuel. Now the car wont start. Please give me wisdom masters from one of youll newbies.
P.S. I already ordered the camshaft postion sensor and knock sensor. Should I order a new fuel injector to?
P.S. I already ordered the camshaft postion sensor and knock sensor. Should I order a new fuel injector to?
I would move the #2 coil to a different cylinder and see if the miss follows it.
Check the resistance on the #2 injector. it should be between 11-14 ohms.
The cam sensor should get you back running again as none of the other codes are disable ones.
You sure you got a code for a #2 misfire? I had #1 misfire (bad injector) but no code.
01-13-2010, 07:44 PM
#5260
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: New Orleans
Posts: 14
have you cleared the codes yet?
I would move the #2 coil to a different cylinder and see if the miss follows it.
Check the resistance on the #2 injector. it should be between 11-14 ohms.
The cam sensor should get you back running again as none of the other codes are disable ones.
You sure you got a code for a #2 misfire? I had #1 misfire (bad injector) but no code.
I would move the #2 coil to a different cylinder and see if the miss follows it.
Check the resistance on the #2 injector. it should be between 11-14 ohms.
The cam sensor should get you back running again as none of the other codes are disable ones.
You sure you got a code for a #2 misfire? I had #1 misfire (bad injector) but no code.
01-14-2010, 05:57 AM
#5261
Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Greenville, SC
Posts: 77
starter noise?
Hey all - been reading for a while, but not posting. I know how valuable these forums can be for getting specific information on your car. Now I have a question, but still too *noobie* to start my own.
The starter on my 142K '97 SE 5sp seems to be going. NEVER had a problem starting before. Last few days, turned over fine, but made a high pitched squeal after starting, and almost died. Yesterday, only got high pitched noise, and no turn over. Tried a few times, and just barely started.
Drove it home and put it on ramps, anticipating that the starter needs replacement - sounds like it isn't engaging the flywheel well. I have done some work before, so I think I can tackle this.
Searched for comparable info, couldn't find the following answers:
- do these symptoms sound like the starter?
- I have read that the Autozone starter is garbage, and to go OE, but where would I get one? I know the "stealership" would kill me on price, and buying one from a used car sounds questionable too. I didn't find a sponsor that seemed to deal with this. Where should I get one?
Thanks in advance!
The starter on my 142K '97 SE 5sp seems to be going. NEVER had a problem starting before. Last few days, turned over fine, but made a high pitched squeal after starting, and almost died. Yesterday, only got high pitched noise, and no turn over. Tried a few times, and just barely started.
Drove it home and put it on ramps, anticipating that the starter needs replacement - sounds like it isn't engaging the flywheel well. I have done some work before, so I think I can tackle this.
Searched for comparable info, couldn't find the following answers:
- do these symptoms sound like the starter?
- I have read that the Autozone starter is garbage, and to go OE, but where would I get one? I know the "stealership" would kill me on price, and buying one from a used car sounds questionable too. I didn't find a sponsor that seemed to deal with this. Where should I get one?
Thanks in advance!
01-14-2010, 07:53 AM
#5263
Hey all - been reading for a while, but not posting. I know how valuable these forums can be for getting specific information on your car. Now I have a question, but still too *noobie* to start my own.
The starter on my 142K '97 SE 5sp seems to be going. NEVER had a problem starting before. Last few days, turned over fine, but made a high pitched squeal after starting, and almost died. Yesterday, only got high pitched noise, and no turn over. Tried a few times, and just barely started.
Drove it home and put it on ramps, anticipating that the starter needs replacement - sounds like it isn't engaging the flywheel well. I have done some work before, so I think I can tackle this.
Searched for comparable info, couldn't find the following answers:
- do these symptoms sound like the starter?
- I have read that the Autozone starter is garbage, and to go OE, but where would I get one? I know the "stealership" would kill me on price, and buying one from a used car sounds questionable too. I didn't find a sponsor that seemed to deal with this. Where should I get one?
Thanks in advance!
The starter on my 142K '97 SE 5sp seems to be going. NEVER had a problem starting before. Last few days, turned over fine, but made a high pitched squeal after starting, and almost died. Yesterday, only got high pitched noise, and no turn over. Tried a few times, and just barely started.
Drove it home and put it on ramps, anticipating that the starter needs replacement - sounds like it isn't engaging the flywheel well. I have done some work before, so I think I can tackle this.
Searched for comparable info, couldn't find the following answers:
- do these symptoms sound like the starter?
- I have read that the Autozone starter is garbage, and to go OE, but where would I get one? I know the "stealership" would kill me on price, and buying one from a used car sounds questionable too. I didn't find a sponsor that seemed to deal with this. Where should I get one?
Thanks in advance!
01-14-2010, 06:26 PM
#5264
Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: New York
Posts: 25
So if i do the VQ35DE Motor swap into a 1998 maxima. What year maxima should the motor be from. does that matter?
My maxima currently is an automatic. but im told you can use a manual transmission from the VQ30DE with the VQ35DE, you just need to swap flywheels or something of that sort. would it be easier to just go with the VQ30 manual tranny, or the VQ35 manual tranny. will the manual tranny fit with the 4th gen body??
and i cant seem to find a manual tranny any where for either motor. i've searched and looked, only auto's :-(
My maxima currently is an automatic. but im told you can use a manual transmission from the VQ30DE with the VQ35DE, you just need to swap flywheels or something of that sort. would it be easier to just go with the VQ30 manual tranny, or the VQ35 manual tranny. will the manual tranny fit with the 4th gen body??
and i cant seem to find a manual tranny any where for either motor. i've searched and looked, only auto's :-(
01-14-2010, 06:30 PM
#5265
So if i do the VQ35DE Motor swap into a 1998 maxima. What year maxima should the motor be from. does that matter?
My maxima currently is an automatic. but im told you can use a manual transmission from the VQ30DE with the VQ35DE, you just need to swap flywheels or something of that sort. would it be easier to just go with the VQ30 manual tranny, or the VQ35 manual tranny. will the manual tranny fit with the 4th gen body??
My maxima currently is an automatic. but im told you can use a manual transmission from the VQ30DE with the VQ35DE, you just need to swap flywheels or something of that sort. would it be easier to just go with the VQ30 manual tranny, or the VQ35 manual tranny. will the manual tranny fit with the 4th gen body??
Yes, you can use either trans with either. The 6MT is bit more work, without all that much gain. Then again, if you're going from an auto straight to a 6MT, there's only a few extra steps (motor mount, new starter, new axles).
As far as year, 04+ Maxima VQs have external EGR, which may be good or bad depending on how you want to swap. If you want to do a full swap, it can be used as is, or if you do a hybrid and wish to keep EGR then it can be made to work. Otherwise, you'd have to either block off the EGR port on the manifold or pick up an A33B UIM, which don't have external EGR.
The '02-'03 engines are most often used as they're the oldest and cheapest to find and lack an external EGR system.
So the real question is, are you going hybrid or full?
01-15-2010, 08:50 AM
#5266
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 1
wiring colors for 96 alternator module plug
I broke the wires flush to the module plug for the alternator. Nissan Dealer was useless to help. It is a 4 terminal plug, only the inside 2 terminals are used. Can someone please tell me which color wire goes closer to the engine, or back of car, and which wire goes closer to the fan or front of car. Thanks in advance for your help.
Robert aka OTreborO 96 Maxima GXE
Robert aka OTreborO 96 Maxima GXE
01-15-2010, 09:27 AM
#5267
Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: New York
Posts: 25
Did you read the links I provided above? They cover trans choice and flywheel fitment/modification.
Yes, you can use either trans with either. The 6MT is bit more work, without all that much gain. Then again, if you're going from an auto straight to a 6MT, there's only a few extra steps (motor mount, new starter, new axles).
As far as year, 04+ Maxima VQs have external EGR, which may be good or bad depending on how you want to swap. If you want to do a full swap, it can be used as is, or if you do a hybrid and wish to keep EGR then it can be made to work. Otherwise, you'd have to either block off the EGR port on the manifold or pick up an A33B UIM, which don't have external EGR.
The '02-'03 engines are most often used as they're the oldest and cheapest to find and lack an external EGR system.
So the real question is, are you going hybrid or full?
Yes, you can use either trans with either. The 6MT is bit more work, without all that much gain. Then again, if you're going from an auto straight to a 6MT, there's only a few extra steps (motor mount, new starter, new axles).
As far as year, 04+ Maxima VQs have external EGR, which may be good or bad depending on how you want to swap. If you want to do a full swap, it can be used as is, or if you do a hybrid and wish to keep EGR then it can be made to work. Otherwise, you'd have to either block off the EGR port on the manifold or pick up an A33B UIM, which don't have external EGR.
The '02-'03 engines are most often used as they're the oldest and cheapest to find and lack an external EGR system.
So the real question is, are you going hybrid or full?
01-15-2010, 09:45 AM
#5269
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 13
I'm new to posting but, I have been following the threads! I'm taking on 3 projects for my 98' Black Max this weekend and I have a few questions.
1) Fog Light Rewire
I'm gonna follow this STEP-BY-STEP. Does this look correct?
2) Shaving Rear Emblems
I'm gonna use a hairdryer and some dental floss. Any other pointers?
3) Custom Painting the rim center caps
Should I sand or prime the plastic before I put a black spray paint base coat?
Then I'm using a fine brush and silver paint to hand paint the Nissan Burger
Following up with some clear coat
Any pointers would be helpful!
1) Fog Light Rewire
I'm gonna follow this STEP-BY-STEP. Does this look correct?
2) Shaving Rear Emblems
I'm gonna use a hairdryer and some dental floss. Any other pointers?
3) Custom Painting the rim center caps
Should I sand or prime the plastic before I put a black spray paint base coat?
Then I'm using a fine brush and silver paint to hand paint the Nissan Burger
Following up with some clear coat
Any pointers would be helpful!
01-15-2010, 11:08 AM
#5270
I broke the wires flush to the module plug for the alternator. Nissan Dealer was useless to help. It is a 4 terminal plug, only the inside 2 terminals are used. Can someone please tell me which color wire goes closer to the engine, or back of car, and which wire goes closer to the fan or front of car. Thanks in advance for your help.
Robert aka OTreborO 96 Maxima GXE
Robert aka OTreborO 96 Maxima GXE
01-15-2010, 12:48 PM
#5271
I'm new to posting but, I have been following the threads! I'm taking on 3 projects for my 98' Black Max this weekend and I have a few questions.
1) Fog Light Rewire
I'm gonna follow this STEP-BY-STEP. Does this look correct?
2) Shaving Rear Emblems
I'm gonna use a hairdryer and some dental floss. Any other pointers?
3) Custom Painting the rim center caps
Should I sand or prime the plastic before I put a black spray paint base coat?
Then I'm using a fine brush and silver paint to hand paint the Nissan Burger
Following up with some clear coat
Any pointers would be helpful!
1) Fog Light Rewire
I'm gonna follow this STEP-BY-STEP. Does this look correct?
2) Shaving Rear Emblems
I'm gonna use a hairdryer and some dental floss. Any other pointers?
3) Custom Painting the rim center caps
Should I sand or prime the plastic before I put a black spray paint base coat?
Then I'm using a fine brush and silver paint to hand paint the Nissan Burger
Following up with some clear coat
Any pointers would be helpful!
2) and patience! and goo gone to remove any excess glue
3) yes, of course, sand and prime then.
01-15-2010, 01:51 PM
#5272
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 13
This Weekends Mods
1) yes, but i soldered my connections instead of using the wire taps. instead of using the bumper light for the new source of power, i opted to use the corner light harness (because its closer to the relay harness than running the wire down to the bumper light)
2) and patience! and goo gone to remove any excess glue
3) yes, of course, sand and prime then.
2) and patience! and goo gone to remove any excess glue
3) yes, of course, sand and prime then.
Thanks for the help! I will let you know how everything turns out and show you pics! I already have some Goo Gone and I just got back from AutoZone. I picked up some black spray paint for plastic. I also got some clear coat and some Nissan Silver Mist touch up paint. I'm all set!!
Where is the corner light harness?? Do you have a pic?
01-15-2010, 03:12 PM
#5273
Member
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: PA
Posts: 205
i did the ecu mod on my 5 speed 99 max to stop the governor from limiting my mph. i also ran a switch to it to turn it on and of when i race to prevent a permanent cel. now this is the problem, after doing the mod i drove it for 10 min and it died out and coasted when i was comming to a slow stop at a red light. i started it back up with no prob. same thing happened last month when i had my cel reset except it died on a coast and wouldnt turn back on for 10 min. that time the power would go out when i started, but i havent had that prob since. what could the problem be? is it a possibility the ecu was reprogramming itself or is it something else...
01-15-2010, 03:47 PM
#5274
Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: New York
Posts: 25
Well i still cant start a thread so ill ask here.
Im in love with the sound production form the Greddy Spectrum Elite- SE.
only thing is im really trying to get the dual exhaust for a 1998 Maxima. Does anyone have a dual exhaust on theirs?? does the Greddy spectrum come dual like in the later year model maximas. if not. is there a year that will bolt onto the 98 maxima maybe with some fabrication?
Im in love with the sound production form the Greddy Spectrum Elite- SE.
only thing is im really trying to get the dual exhaust for a 1998 Maxima. Does anyone have a dual exhaust on theirs?? does the Greddy spectrum come dual like in the later year model maximas. if not. is there a year that will bolt onto the 98 maxima maybe with some fabrication?
01-15-2010, 05:10 PM
#5276
Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: New York
Posts: 25
lomaro69
Im in the process of doing the smae thing. these links really helped me get a better grasp on what needs to be done. im still asking a couple of questions myself. but maybe u'll turn up more lucky than me. good luck bro.
Pretty much everywhere. Where have you been looking?
Junkyards, eBay, craigslist, the classifieds here, local forums, etc.
http://shop.ebay.com/i.html?_nkw=max...1&_from=&_ipg=
Yes. It's also possible to swap in a B18, a 13b, a VK, etc. It just takes time and money.
Search: http://forums.maxima.org/all-motor/4...swap-info.html
Define 'major'. Depends on how you do it.
The Z33 has a VQ35, yes. But it's far from the only vehicle with one. Have you never seen a VQ35 Altima, Maxima, or Quest?
No drivetrain issues, but if you go with a RWD VQ it isn't exactly plug and play.
Search: http://forums.maxima.org/all-motor/5...s-lengthy.html
Junkyards, eBay, craigslist, the classifieds here, local forums, etc.
http://shop.ebay.com/i.html?_nkw=max...1&_from=&_ipg=
Yes. It's also possible to swap in a B18, a 13b, a VK, etc. It just takes time and money.
Search: http://forums.maxima.org/all-motor/4...swap-info.html
Define 'major'. Depends on how you do it.
The Z33 has a VQ35, yes. But it's far from the only vehicle with one. Have you never seen a VQ35 Altima, Maxima, or Quest?
No drivetrain issues, but if you go with a RWD VQ it isn't exactly plug and play.
Search: http://forums.maxima.org/all-motor/5...s-lengthy.html
01-15-2010, 05:31 PM
#5277
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: New Orleans
Posts: 14
Changing Camshaft position sensor.
Hey Guys, I was wondering if youll could tell me if it was hard to change the Camshaft position sensor on a 95 max (automatic tranny)? I also was wondering if youll know where any videos or pics are for this project? Im going to start on this project saturday. Thanks for the answers in advance!!!!!!!!
:greenb oun
:greenb oun
01-15-2010, 05:59 PM
#5278
I broke the wires flush to the module plug for the alternator. Nissan Dealer was useless to help. It is a 4 terminal plug, only the inside 2 terminals are used. Can someone please tell me which color wire goes closer to the engine, or back of car, and which wire goes closer to the fan or front of car. Thanks in advance for your help.
Robert aka OTreborO 96 Maxima GXE
Robert aka OTreborO 96 Maxima GXE
well i have my theories. I want the swap to be swift but which ever works more efficiently and reliable and best power output. I figure this. If the ECU for the VQ30 or the tranny made for the VQ30 engine is built and functions for the fact that your running a 3.0 litre in comparison to a 3.5L which we all know, that means more air/fuel volume and so on and so forth. I figure going full swap is the most efficient thing to do. But im more or less worried about the additional modifications if needed for the full VQ35 swap. like electrical wiring for the different ECU. and you mention axles. I just want to do this right. but im kind of going in blind. never done a swap before. but Im not completely incompitant (i think i spelled that wrong, lol). The guides you sent were amazing, but it still leaves questions. the write up was for the VQ35 swap. but he kept ecu and tranny. so it still leaves a couple of open issues.
Did you even try reading this very thread before asking your question?
Did you try searching?
01-15-2010, 06:01 PM
#5279
Hey Guys, I was wondering if youll could tell me if it was hard to change the Camshaft position sensor on a 95 max (automatic tranny)? I also was wondering if youll know where any videos or pics are for this project? Im going to start on this project saturday. Thanks for the answers in advance!!!!!!!!:greenb oun
:greenb oun