Just removed Ignition Switch, short still exists.

Any ideas???

 

You probably blew the main fusable link, a 120 amp puppy in the fuse box by the battery. It is a big square thing pretty much dead center in the fuse box.

But this should not have happened if everything was OK.

You said "I have continuity from the negative lead to the positive lead."
If that is true, you have a short. I would examine the battery wire that goes to the alternator. For that matter, any wire that was involved with or near the engine as it could have gotten pinched.

 

I have a 95 maxima with bose system, and i wired up a new stereo to it (pioneer.) During the wiring, for some odd reason i did not unplug the battery when hooking it, something went wrong and now there is no power going to the stereo at all. I tried plugging back the original stereo and no power still. Can any one help me out please. I checked all the fuses and they are all good. Could it be the audio relay? if so where is it located?

I thought of putting in new speakers with amp but then what if i still won't get any power to the stereo?

 

How did you check the fuses? Visual, multimeter or test light?

Check again, as a blown fuse is your likely culprit

Also, you know the speakers don't work with the aftermarket stereo unless you have the adapter, right?

How did you hook the stereo to the car? Wiring harness, solder direct, or wire taps?

 

I recently replaced my alternator and battery. But for some reason after sitting a while I have to get jumped off and I can't figure out why---any suggestions on what I should check

 

How long is "a while"? If "a while" is a month, this is normal.

Otherwise you might want to check the hood alarm switch by the battery. Maybe it got damaged during the battery change.

There are many, many possibilities. Have you had the battery tested to see if it can hold a charge? Just because it is new doesn't guarantee that it is good.

But if you can't find something damaged, like the hood switch or the trunk light always on, you will have to test for a parasitic drain on the battery.

 

hi on my 95 maxima the exhaust tip has rusted and fallen off now my car sounds like a lawn mower mixed with a stick shift and my car is an automatic what my question for you all is what do i have to buy to fix this problem....do i need to buy a whole new muffler kit ?? or is therea n cheaper easier fix. thank you

 

If just the muffler tip rusted off, you would not have a change in exhaust tone. Chances are, your muffler itself is going bad too...you need a new muffler and tip, and depending on how bad the rust is, maybe new exhaust piping from the Y pipe downstream.

Take it to a local mom and pop type exhaust shop and get it up on a lift to take a look.

 

Hi all, my question is in regards to a 1997 maxima gle. The right rear passanger break light went out. I went to replace the bulb and noticed that one of the metal connectors in the socket had melted as well as the corresponding connector on the bulb. My initial reaction is that the socket (not sure if this is the proper name) needs to be replaced.

My local auto stores do not have this part and searching online has yielded little results. I've found the socket below but I am conserned that the part I need includes both the break bulb socket as well as the turn signal bulb socket. The photos I've included show that both sockets are connected and plug into the main wiring connector.

http://m.autopartswarehouse.com/deta...t/RB84809.html

Any help regarding parts needed and installation would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!

Photos attached
http://imgur.com/a/lSMZr

 

Check your local junkyard or ebay.

A few people have also had this problem; unsure why, but a new socket will fix your issue you're right.

 

My car got broken into, ever since then the power windows do not roll down. But the power lock works. The hazards don't work nor does the signals. But the headlights work. The radio module was pulled out and stolen. I don't know if it's a wiring problem if something ripped when the radio, vents, and AC control unit was pulled out or something with the power window regulator when the thief jimmy my car. Help none of the mechanics I take the car to can fix this. It's a 96 maxima. I have replaced the fuses.

 

The Hazard switch has to be plugged in for the turn signals to work. Did they rip some of the wires out when they stole the head unit? There are a lot of wires back there, my guess is that some other circuits were cut or ripped by the thief. Can you be a little more descriptive as to the damage?

 

I took the dash apart (the vents, radio, and temperature control unit) and took a look at it. The wires seems intact so I didn't bother to mess around, the signals seems to be working fine as well as the horn.

This is where I need help-

I took the door panel off as well and started testing the window switch. I have a feeling the master switch was broken. I took a voltage checker And tested the harness only three things lit up, I'm guessing thats the power door lock the courtesy foot light and the trunk open switch (those three thing were the only ones working) non of the other wires were live. So I checked the fuse box and it was good. So is there a relay I should check? Or the wires coming from the fuse box to door harness there is an issue? So what do I do from here?

 

The master power window switch is a fairly complicated device. It is a microprocessor based unit that uses a form of data communications to tell the different things to work. You will not find a lot of wires that have 12 volts on them. And these switches are kind of fragile. Many people have shorted them out when changing the light bulb in the door.

With the door being opened with a slim jim (or similar) they may have caused a short. Another factor is that the data communications lines go to the BCM (Body Control Module) and as the name implies, it also plays an important part in this. The BCM is located on the transmission hump in front of the shifter. If you have an auto trans, the BCM sits on top of the TCM (Transmission Control Module) sits. For manual trans, the BCM is all by itself.

When a car has been broken in and vandalized, it is hard to say what is wrong and where. It there is no wiring damage, I would suggest a visit to the local junkyard and get both a replacement master window switch and BCM. You need a master window switch from either a 95 or 96 Maxima or Infiniti I30.

For the BCM, you need to stick to a 96 model. There are 3 models, SE, GXE and GLE. The SE and GXE use one BCM and the GLE uses another one.

 

Ok so i figured i should post here before starting a thread. I have a 97 Maxima with 302,000+ miles on it, and im wanting a little more pep and better handling.
My question is should i put mods into this car? what should i do before modding, what mods should i do? All this has to be tempered with low price and above all reliability. Or should i save up the money and try to find another Max with low miles and mod it later down the road?
"requirements"/ wants
low price
reliable
all motor
mainly need stiffer rear suspension, better brakes, and quicker mid range acceleration (ie. coming out of corners or from 35-40 rolls)
basically think auto cross mods.
links to relevant articles welcome.

 

How deep are your pockets?

 

very shallow. I'll put it this way. i work at a grocery store and make minimum wage, im working through college, oh and im close to but but not at full-time.
P.S. as far as experience goes i can change my oil filter put a new belt on change an alternator that kind of thing just maintenance stuff, but i can learn. most mods/tune ups i want to do myself.

 

Just maintain your vehicle and don't focus on go fast/looks IMO.

Your car will last longer and more importantly cause you less unnecessary headaches and leave some money in your wallet.

You have quite a bit of miles and if you just stick with maintenance you could see another 100k or more out of your maxima.

If you start modding, trust me it never ends.
The mod bug bites hard.

 

ok thanks for the advice. Also i wasnt sure about overhauls and other long term maintenance stuff, and whether its a good thing to do when the car already runs great but just because of the miles. any tips there?

 

Hi, im new to this site and about to be a new driver on the road.
I have a question about the maxima im going to receive. The clear coat its peeling away along the trunk and around the gas tank. I do know it was in a car crash when my mother was driving it while i was in when i was much younger. Any ideas on how to cover it or make it look decent?

its a 96 gle if that helps

 

I want to install a transmission cooler (Hayden 678) on the 97 Maxima, and I need to order transmission hose. I've been searching but can't find this info. What is the ID of the hose from the tranny to the heat exchanger in the radiator? What about the barbs on the tranny and heat exchanger?

 

The cooler lines coming out of the transmission side are 5/16" OD. I have used a 3/8" ID hose, but I clamped it down really good.

 

Hello,

I am replacing the valve cover gaskets on a 1996 Maxima (my first major auto repair). In the process of removing the plenum, while trying to remove that very last U hose in the back, a mystery grommet fell out onto the garage floor and antifreeze started leaking. The grommet was cracked and unusable, and I have no clue where it goes! Anyone know anything about this grommet? It's about an inch in diameter and about a half inch thick.

 

Either the throttle body or the back of the UIM.
This is where a picture or two is worth a thousand words.

Try uploading some pictures to photobucket or somewhere similar and posting them on here and someone will be able to tell you 100% without as much guessing.

 

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B-r...it?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B-r...it?usp=sharing

I saved them onto Google Drive and copied the share link. Two different views of it (the black thing under the permatex)

 

Can't view the photos, get a "permission denied" message.

 

Fixed, sorry... I don't use that feature often

 

The photos should be fixed.

Another question, should I use the red, blue, or black permatex when I go to put the gaskets on and put it all back together?

 

That looks like it might be for the PCV.

Have a look on your rear valve cover to see if it's missing.

Oh, and I used grey on my VC and black for the oil pans if you ever work with them.
You can read the packages and make your choice though.

 

It wasn't the PCV valve grommet. That's still there, but since you made me think of it, I went ahead and replaced that

I decided to go with the Red, and got it all put back together tonight. So far things seem ok. No idea still where that grommet goes and I'm still curious, but hopefully I won't have to find out!

I also seen two other things that I'm not sure about. The person I got the car from changed to an aftermarket breather. I've got a hose that comes off the transmission and up to the top-right of the front valve cover. It's never been connected to anything, doesn't seem to draw vacuum or put out any pressure.

Also I've got this "boost sensor" thing dangling around but I don't see any place to attach it. Both these things have been puzzling me since I got the car.

 

Manual trans?
If so, leave the hose alone, it's not supposed to be connected to anything.

Do you still have stock intake?
If so, the boost sensor/MAP sensor gets bolted to the snorkel by the hood.

 

I don't know what the average temp for the engine should be but mine's running at about 190. I changed my oil over the weekend and it was black, and I only got about 3.5 quarts out, did not change the filter. Filter was changed at last oil change in the shop, that was about 3400 miles ago. I've always had a slight leak in the center at the back of the motor right over the exhaust can't say I remember what it was draining before but I do believe it drained less than usual and was darker than usual.

I have changed the alternator, radiator, and front left control arm myself as well as most basic maintenance things. I take it in to have maintenance done about half the time so I have some other eyes on it that can catch things I don't know to look for.

In the shop I've had 2 fuel injectors replaced, the starter, and a pulley.

It's an early 95 with 251k miles on it still runs like a champ.

So I'm looking for what temp the engine should be and possible causes of black/low oil although I'm pretty sure everyone's gonna tell me it's the rear seal for the leak at least. On that subject how much would it cost to have fixed, or should I possibly attempt this myself?

 

^The engine will run at 190 degrees. Once over, the radiator fans kick on.

As for the oil leak, could be lots of things. Sounds like your rear valve cover is leaking. Easy job, should take 2-3 hours for your first time. Download the FSM in my signature and follow the procedure and put RTV in the corners as instructed.

 

Automatic...

and I don't have the stock intake. Time for zip ties?

 

Yeah... you've got a rear valve cover gasket leaking, exactly like what I had just fixed yesterday. The "center rear, right over the exhaust" that you mention is that exact location. Rear main seal isn't in that spot.

Here is one of the videos I used to follow it through step by step:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C_2GsFzAaMc

I've never done any major repairs and this one made me feel good enough to go ahead and go through with it myself.

BE SURE you get those spark plug seals in the right direction. I forgot which way they went when I actually did the work; that one totally screwed me and I had to take it all back apart and flip them the correct direction.

Red RTV, 10 foot pounds, and the correct torque sequence should get you the rest of the way there

 

Ok my water needed replaced on my 95 maxima my uncle was doing it but he dropped something inside that engine cover thing now the engine is making some kind of strange noise I think he said the plunger piece came off what can I do can I take it to the mechanic shop so they can get it and fix my water pump I'm so confused thus us what I get from messing around with these street mechanics instead of a real one

 

If something was dropped inside the timing chain cover, you should have NEVER NEVER NEVER started the engine.

The fact that you did and it did not immediately self destruct, you may be somewhat lucky. But DO NOT start the engine again. It is hard to say what kind of damage has been done, but it won't get better by running the engine.

You need to remove the timing chain cover and see what has happened. One thing is certain, whatever is happening is dropping bits and pieces of metal into the oil pan.

 

So, the guy I bought the car from had gotten locked out of the car and set the alarm off trying to get back in. He mangled the driver side door so badly the handle won't go back on, popped out the trunk lock, and tried to pry up the hood. Gently took off the passenger side handle, too, for some reason (now fixed) . Right this moment I have to reach into a hole and pull a bar to pop open the trunk. The button activates the "popper" but all it does is "thunk" and not open.

Are there any tutorials for adjusting/fixing the trunk popper?

As for the door....probably going to go the metal plate & bondo route and install a door actuator. Can't find a replacement door anywhere

 

Don't know about a tutorial for the trunk opener. But it sounds like the link between the solenoid and the latch mechanism got knocked off. IIRC, the lock cylinder and the solenoid are connected together, so the link between them may have been pulled out also and can't be put in without the lock cylinder.

 

ok.....after doing hours of research I still need help.....I have a 1999 Nissan maxima and I have a hole somewhere in the front of my exhaust system.....now here is where my problem/confusion lies.....I live in NY with a maxima that has CALI SPECS, I checked under the hood and my 12th digit is a "V"....so if I am not mistaking does that mean I have a CALI EMISSION vehicle??? So now my other problem is I am having trouble trying to find a exhaust that is compatible with my car/emissions can someone please help. I am not looking for performance exhaust just a nice simple exhaust.

But than I came across this on the forum...."On CA emission 99's Front pre-cat built into header, two extra oxygen sensors to monitor pre-cats (total of 4), Swirl valve in intake to improve emissions. Special aftermarket Y-pipe required and only 1 pre-cat can be removed."

If I can just get a link with a working emission exhaust kit that would be nice thanks.