Yup, NGK's are the only plugs you should run in your Max.

 

Cool thank , Wiz !!!!!

 

My left headlight just went out yesterday, I have high beams on both, but no low on the driver side. No cracks in the headlight lense whatsoever.

Here is a list of what I've found so far:

1. Daytime running lamps still work in this headlight
2. Removed and reseated bulb, no low beam.
3. Tried new bulb, no low beam.
4. Hi beams work on both.
5. Connector is not melted, I'm using standard 9004 bulbs. Nothing fancy.
6. a test light shows there is power to the harness on the middle connector.

Any ideas? Relay prehaps? (memory tells me I had this issue on an old 91 sentra.....details are foggy)

 

So I have a 98 Maxima, stick shift, just replaced the stater a couple months ago. Sometimes, especially when cold when I go to crank the car to a start, instead of starting I hear a grinding noise out of the starter. Seems like if I stop and try again it will make that noise several times in a row without starting. Before it seemed that if I waited a little bit and tried again it would start up with no noise, but now sometimes after I wait it will make the noise again. Could it be a bad flywheel? is the new starter I put in bad? Anyones help would be much appreciated.

 

Does anyone know where the vehicle speed sensor is located throw up some pics plz

 

Did you search?

First result, complete with pics: http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...peedo-cel.html

And another: http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...ed-sensor.html

Searching before posting will almost always get you an answer far quicker.

 

PLEASE HELP i have 1995 maxima se 5 speed what do i need to drop a vq 3.5 in it and i heared of people useing 3.0 parts on the engine when doin the swap WHAT WOULD BE THE EASYS WAY TO GO

 

You can't ask such a loaded question like that.

For starters, the VQ35 swap sticky in the All motor forum, that's a good place to start.

Please search....

 

Apparently I don't have thread starting priveleges, so here's my question/problem.

Got a 1995 GLE Maxima with 153k miles and that engine still runs butter-smooth, drips not oil, and seems to not burn/visibly any oil.

Windshield washer quit the other day:

1. I know the lines aren't plugged.
2. I checked the fuse board, but there's no fuse that identifies itself as covering the washer motor. Is the washer motor fused with the wiper motor circuit?
3. Looks to me like that washer/pump motor must be accessed from under the front wheel fender by removing the rubber under-fender mat/cover? Am I correct.
4. If it's a bad motor, is it replaceable or does it come with the reservoir?
5. By the way, could if have some inline fusible link.
6. My little yellow "low washer fluid" light has always worked. This time the washers just didn't do anything, and I did add quite a bit of fluid thinking the reservoir was empty. Didn't work. Even held down the button on the stock for awhile to see if the pump needed to prime itself or had air in the lines. No go.
*****
So could you 4 beneration Maxima owners who have had some experiences with the window washer, give me some insight?

 

How do you 'know' the lines aren't stopped up with debris?

You should be able to remove the pump from the reservoir without issue. Yes, pulling the fenderwell liner back will expose the reservoir.

No, no fusible links. The washer motor is on the same fuse as the wipers.

Do you even hear the washer motor activate?

 

I don't hear the motor, but I really don't remember hearing it when it was working. The cab is pretty insulated from those kind of sounds.

Reason that I don't think it's a plugged line is that it last worked perfectly, squirting strong out of the squirters, then nothing.
*******
Well, it ain't the fuse, as the wipers are working.

Glad to know the motor/reservoir is accessible from the under-fender area.

Is the pump an auto-supply item, or is something I'd need to go to Nissan for? Could Ebay carry the pump motors?

 

You should be able to hear the washer motor, have you not tried standing outside of the car and trying it, or getting someone else to?

The answer to the eBay question can be found by...searching eBay, surprisingly. Yes, they are available. As far as auto parts stores, have you not checked? I went to Advance Auto's website, typed in 'washer motor', and got a result in seconds.

 

That's a good idea. I will have my son stand outside and see if he hears the pump.

Also, I did find the separate pump units on the web. They range anywhere from $12 bucks to $25. Didn't check if that included shipping.

I have Kragens in my area, auto zone too.
******
Thanks for the help.

 

This is a follow-up to my previous post regarding the P1447 code for which one of ten or so EVAP system components could be the culprit. An OEM gas cap, EVAP canister, vent control valve, and EVAP purge control volume valve were replaced and the code recurred. Then I reluctantly took it to the dealer since I assumed they would run diagnostics using CONSULT. They instead charged $105 to just look at it, say there is a P1447 code, and $900 in repairs may or may not fix the problem.

Then took it to an honest mechanic who replaced the EVAP control valve, EVAP purge control solenoid, and vent control valve with new OEM parts for $675. P1447 recurred. $170 later, he installed a used EVAP vacuum cut valve and pressure sensor and the car then passed emissions.

Now I know way more about EVAP control systems than I wish I did. I replaced every vacuum line in the EVAP system then did a bunch of troubleshooting and diagnostics before finally sending the car to the shop. It would have cost less if I had simply replaced all EVAP components with presumably good used parts. I did test the EVAP vacuum cut valve, but not the pressure sensor. Doing so would have saved me $1k in repairs. The pressure sensor has a 5V reference voltage with an output voltage that varies with respect to the applied vacuum.

Sorry for the long post here, but this is a frustrating problem and hopefully this information will help someone else to fix a P1447 code. I had wanted to start my own thread, but I do not have enough posts to do so. I only use this forum for technical information.

 

I got a 95 Nissan Maxima 3.0 v6 and on cold starts it starts and then just dies. i start it again and i have to give it gas to like 2000 RPMS untill it warms up a bit like 10 seconds and then i let off the gas and it idles at like 200-300 RPMS very very low RPms and almost turns off.


What could my problem be? just change idle higher? or sensor?

 

If I replace the knock sensor and the timing chain is loose will the knock sensor go bad again soon?

 

If you search, you'll find your answer.

What, no more YouTube comments? Sad, it was amusing.

...no. What do the two have to do with eachother?

 

I already searched and couldn't find what im looking for. Only thing that might help is one was saying to clean the MAF sensor but the guy was having a different problem. im having a low idle problem.

 

Ok, I have searched high and low and all over this forum for help to my problem and its seems that either I can't find it or am just ignorant. I just registered to get some help so quicker reply's are appreciated.

1997 Maxima GLE wouldn't start. Replaced battery. Tested alternator (good). Tested starter (Bad, replaced). still nothing. Not even a click from the starter and now all accessories are out. Nothing inside the car works besides headlights, hazards, and the dinger that tells you the key is in the ignition. HELP!!!! I don't have much hair left to lose.

 

Ok, I have searched high and low and all over this forum for help to my problem and its seems that either I can't find it or am just ignorant. I just registered to get some help so quicker reply's are appreciated.

1997 Maxima GLE wouldn't start. Replaced battery. Tested alternator (good). Tested starter (Bad, replaced). still nothing. Not even a click from the starter and now all accessories are out. Nothing inside the car works besides headlights, hazards, and the dinger that tells you the key is in the ignition. HELP!!!! I don't have much hair left to lose.

 

Are we to assume that you've checked ALL fuses?
Are you getting power at the ignition switch?
If you backfeed power from the battery to an ignition source do all of the idiot lights come on, power windows work, etc?

 

Check your fuses aksteg all of them

 

Follow up question: cost to correct PO325 and PO136?? Need to pass MA inspection

 

Fuses are all good. Replaced ignition switch and that fixed most of the accessory problems. Fuel pump comes on now but still won't start.

 

This maxima is bad ***

 

If you know how to remove your intake P0325 will prob take you an hour the first time. See pmohrs link above in his sig for the how to. A shop will prob charge you for the whole manifold removal

for P0136 its most likely the rear O2 sensor. Its pretty simple if you are good with tools. you'll would need an O2 sensor socket most likely. A shop can do it in a half hour honestly.

What are you referring to? If you need assistance just make a post or bump your old post

 

is the mevi or 00vi a dealer item or where would be places to start looking for either item ? thanks in advance

 

Why won't it start? Does it have spark? Fuel?

Courtesy sells the MEVI whenever they get them in, which isn't all that often these days. You can get the 00VI through the dealer, but you'd be looking at well over a grand in parts.

eBay, classifieds, junkyards, etc.

 

Well, embarrassingly, it was a fuse that I overlooked (140 amp) Dealership didn't say which one. They overnighted it for me. $17 fuse, overnight cost $20. Man I feel dumb. But at least it will be fixed and back on the road. Thanks for all your help, I was just too frustrated to deal with it any longer.

 

i got a 95 5 speed with 272k miles on it. just recently the power steering went out and im wondering what the problem could be. but first let me tell you the circumstances in which this happened.

On the day that it happened it was raining, but not too bad. I started my car and took it to the store to go get somethings. There is no problem with the steering at this point. When I parked the car, it was raining harder but again not too bad. I'm in the store for maximum of 20 minutes. As I come outside, it is pouring outside. I mean coming down, like they do it in the movies. So I run to my car and get in. I proceed to start the engine and back out. No problems, until I begin to turn the wheel. Now it feels as if there is absolutely no power steering at all. First thing that comes to my mind is the belt broke. So I pull into an empty lot and check it. But to my surprise the belt is intact and running fine. Only difference is that now I hear this noise. It doesn't sound like a screeching noise or like the belt is rubbing up against anything; it sounds rickety, like something is loose. So I took it to Pepboys thinking the belts just need to be tightened, and no luck.

So what do you guys think? Could it be the pump? If so what does a bad pump sound like? Would the pump just go bad so abruptly? Could it be anything else??

 

Today I was driving in the first rain of the year when my power steering went out,then brake and battery light went on and then a cel for crankshaft sensor went on.

I found that both my power steering and serpentine belt were missing when i got home.

Should I just change the belts(did they slip off with rain, mechanic installed ~10k ago) or is there something that could have caused both to break?

 

would the 00vi fit on a 96 ?

 

Yup. It will fit all 95-99's.

 

If they broke, chances are you would've heard it before you noticed the lack of PS.

Replace them, see what happens.

 

My 1995 Maxima GLE has been a great car. It has 153k miles on the odometer, and the engine still runs silky smooth, uses no oil between 3k changes, and doesn't drip any either.

Anyway, my power driver's seat goes forward and back, and the seatback tilts forward and back fine, but the seat won't go up or down or tilt the seat cushion at all.

Did a little experiment. Got out of the seat and stood on the street with door open and tried the up/down/seat cushion tilt, and it all worked fine.

I raised the seat up all the way this way. Then I got in the seat and you could hear a raspy gear teeth sound and the seat dropped down to bottom with my full weight.

Ok, no obese jokes now. I'm a tad over 200 lbs, but it shouldn't do this.

Is this an easy fix? Can I pull the seat and is their something broken, or are their some important gears that aren't lining up that lift/lower and tilt the seat-bottom cushion.

I'd prefer to work on it myself and save the $$.

Don't really know how these power seat motors.

 

http://boredmder.com/FSM/Nissan/Maxima/1995/bf.pdf

your motor may be shot which is why it cant lift you.

 

I was talking about my Maxima, I love it! lol. love the leather and Bose sound system.

I got it driving today with only new axel lol, well now i got new problems.


The Engine seems to bog a little, like ill give it gas and it feels weak and i give it more gas and it takes off and downshifts like im racing. maybe it needs transmition fluid?


It feels like its going into a to high of a gear for the speed. is this normal? i came from a 3 speed auto it sucked loll.

 

do you have a Check engine light? What other work has been done recently?

 

Its been parked for 8 months has been started n all but not driving cause the broken CV Axel. I fixed it and thats it. went down the street and the first thing i noticed is that is stayed in 1st gear for a while and when it went into 2nd it was ruff.

The fluid was a bit low i added some stop slip into it now its almost full again now it shifts good but still seems like its going to high of a gear and when i try n slowly pick speed up it dont move at all untill like half throttle then it down shifts and takes off.


And yes their is a Check Engine light. Can you help me check it?

 

Wait, you have a axle from a 3 spd Maxima??? where did you get that info from? Check to see if you have the right axle for your car