NOOBIES: "I AM NEW HERE BUT HAVE A QUESTION" thread. Read FIRST post BEFORE posting!
#5361
Clutch alignment tool
Got a 95 Max 5 spd. and I need to transfer the clutch and flywheel over to the replacement motor as it came out of an auto. Anyone know where I can get the alignment tool? Or is there another way of getting around it? tks, Mike
#5362
Need help in Ottawa, Canada
My son slammed his '99 Max (220K with 8 new Toyo tires and many new parts)) into a curb in parking lot at 30 km/hr. Airbags deployed and rad slammed off rail. Insurance co. says its a write-off, but it is such a beauty we want to keep it and buy another Max. to mix and match parts and drive. Would love to find a friend in Ottawa for advise and help with some work, or maybe to help part it out. Anybody in West Ottawa, Ont. listening, please reply. Thanks,
#5363
How can I tell?
Ok I have a 96 GLE
I need A new Half shaft installed on the driver's side.
Everyplace I called asked if it is limited slip differential. I gave them the vin # and they can't tell by that. Even the dealer can't tell from the Vin #. Where can I check to get the right Half Shaft for my Maxima?
I need A new Half shaft installed on the driver's side.
Everyplace I called asked if it is limited slip differential. I gave them the vin # and they can't tell by that. Even the dealer can't tell from the Vin #. Where can I check to get the right Half Shaft for my Maxima?
#5364
Ok I have a 96 GLE
I need A new Half shaft installed on the driver's side.
Everyplace I called asked if it is limited slip differential. I gave them the vin # and they can't tell by that. Even the dealer can't tell from the Vin #. Where can I check to get the right Half Shaft for my Maxima?
I need A new Half shaft installed on the driver's side.
Everyplace I called asked if it is limited slip differential. I gave them the vin # and they can't tell by that. Even the dealer can't tell from the Vin #. Where can I check to get the right Half Shaft for my Maxima?
#5365
My son slammed his '99 Max (220K with 8 new Toyo tires and many new parts)) into a curb in parking lot at 30 km/hr. Airbags deployed and rad slammed off rail. Insurance co. says its a write-off, but it is such a beauty we want to keep it and buy another Max. to mix and match parts and drive. Would love to find a friend in Ottawa for advise and help with some work, or maybe to help part it out. Anybody in West Ottawa, Ont. listening, please reply. Thanks,
#5366
Any reputable auto parts store will have the alignment tool.
#5367
Hello. I drive a 1995 Maxima and recently had a bunch of work done at my local Kelly Nissan dealer in Chicago. I'm talking knock sensor, o2 sensor, fuel injectors, etc. I was reading the paperwork and was floored when there was a comment saying that I was using 87 octane gas instead of 93 octane gas which is causing my car to misfire. For as long as I have been driving, I have been using what I thought was premium 93 gas from Shell. I've also been recommended this from a tech at Orland Park Nissan. When I told him that I've been using 93 premium, he looked at me like I was crazy.
Is it really my gas from Shell that is causing issues with my car? I always make sure to use premium gas as suggested by my manual and by the gas cap. All these years I've been thinking that I was using 93 while the techs at Nissan are telling me that it's 87? Thanks for all future replies if any.
Is it really my gas from Shell that is causing issues with my car? I always make sure to use premium gas as suggested by my manual and by the gas cap. All these years I've been thinking that I was using 93 while the techs at Nissan are telling me that it's 87? Thanks for all future replies if any.
Exactly how did they determine you were using "87" gas??
BTW, find a new mechanic.
#5368
UPDATE on TPS adjustment:
I got a #3 code from the on board AT diagnostics,
tested the TPS with the revised method(NTB99-053a) using the Closed Throttle Position Switch(CTPS)(right side) instead of the TPS variable output measurement(left side),
Turns out I had continuity on both feeler gauge thicknesses (.012 & .016 in),
So I adjusted the TPS so I had no continuity on .016 in thickness,
Now the tranny shifts smoother and picks a better rpm, to shift at.
I haven't checked to see if it's still getting the #3 code for TPS trouble, but for now, it's a lot better running....
I got a #3 code from the on board AT diagnostics,
tested the TPS with the revised method(NTB99-053a) using the Closed Throttle Position Switch(CTPS)(right side) instead of the TPS variable output measurement(left side),
Turns out I had continuity on both feeler gauge thicknesses (.012 & .016 in),
So I adjusted the TPS so I had no continuity on .016 in thickness,
Now the tranny shifts smoother and picks a better rpm, to shift at.
I haven't checked to see if it's still getting the #3 code for TPS trouble, but for now, it's a lot better running....
When I set the TPS thru the revised method, using the other TS(for the AT), I checked the variable, and it's 610 ohms fully closed to 4300 ohms WOT. Does that harm anything?
It also lowered the idle to 600 rpms, in gear.
#5371
#5372
Hello everyone. My name is Travis and i have a 96 5sp max. i decided to do the DE-K swap a few months back and STILL havent been able to get it started..
My set up:
01 DE-K Motor
96 5sp tranny
96 flywheel, timing ring clutch etc.
96 ECM
96 IACV
01 TB and TPS
96 CPS
96 CKPS POS
96 CKPS REF
no egr
Knock sensor resistor mod.
So heres the deal... when i go to start it, it cranks and kicks back.. It tries starting at 20*, and sometimes im able to get it to start up.... When the cars running, the idle is up and down( not at a consistant RPM). the scanner is telling me that the timing is around 50-60*. i have reset the ECM multiple times, and no codes have came up yet.. i wasnt sure if it was a bad scanner, so i unpluged a coil and it showed up with an ignition failure code..
i was told that the Crank position sensors were the same for 95-01, however the 01 ckps (under crank pulley) has the wiring coming in on the opposite side than the 96.
So for the past week I was thinking that maybe I didnt line up the flywheel to the crank properly. But would it make a difference in this situation since the timing rings from 95-01 dont have any marks(all teeth equally spaced and sized.) i remember see in a thread that pmohr has seen this problem a lot when people do clutch jobs. Is this only for the 3.5s?
Any help would be great.. i hope pmohr sees this post and has some ideas.
My set up:
01 DE-K Motor
96 5sp tranny
96 flywheel, timing ring clutch etc.
96 ECM
96 IACV
01 TB and TPS
96 CPS
96 CKPS POS
96 CKPS REF
no egr
Knock sensor resistor mod.
So heres the deal... when i go to start it, it cranks and kicks back.. It tries starting at 20*, and sometimes im able to get it to start up.... When the cars running, the idle is up and down( not at a consistant RPM). the scanner is telling me that the timing is around 50-60*. i have reset the ECM multiple times, and no codes have came up yet.. i wasnt sure if it was a bad scanner, so i unpluged a coil and it showed up with an ignition failure code..
i was told that the Crank position sensors were the same for 95-01, however the 01 ckps (under crank pulley) has the wiring coming in on the opposite side than the 96.
So for the past week I was thinking that maybe I didnt line up the flywheel to the crank properly. But would it make a difference in this situation since the timing rings from 95-01 dont have any marks(all teeth equally spaced and sized.) i remember see in a thread that pmohr has seen this problem a lot when people do clutch jobs. Is this only for the 3.5s?
Any help would be great.. i hope pmohr sees this post and has some ideas.
Any idea?
#5373
Anybody Install a Fidanza???
I am probably going to use stainless steel washers instead of the 'center bolt-hole part of the stock flywheel' that i cut out. It gives me good clearance but is too thick and thus, puts the teeth on the sensor sprocket over the outermost edge of the crankshaft sensor magnet... Does it need to be centered over the magnet or can it be on the edge? I know that if its off far enough, the car may not run after i get it all put back together. Anybody ever deal with this before?
I am in the middle of a clutch/ flywheel swap and i am having a clearance problem with the new fidanza flywheel. I took the crankshaft position sensor's "toothed ring" off the stock flywheel and put it on the new fidanza and when i try to bolt it back on to the engine the "toothed ring" rubs against the side of the block in at least one spot. Do i need to shim the new flywheel? What should i use to shim it...(i cut out the center bolt-hole part of the stock flywheel out and it looks like it may work)? What are the tolerances that i am dealing with as far as: 1. How far can/should i shim it out? 2. How important is weight balance of the shim(s)? Any help is greatly appreciated._Matt_
#5375
Sunday morning I went out to start the max and to my suprise there was a high pitch squeal. I let it warm up and it never went away. When I put it in reverse and accelerated backwards it got louder. Could it be my accessory belt or possibly the alternator? Ive got a 97 GLE with 115k miles.
I have had the same issue a couple of times. The first time it had happened to me i had to replace my Crankshaft Pulley because the rubber piece between the actual pulley and the metal hub broke and caused the pulley to walk. And as of right now my car is still doing it...but i know that the only reason its doing it is because the belt is too loose and is slipping on the pulley. However, with it now once it warms up it goes away.
#5378
#5382
I'm looking into buying a daily driver for use while my '99 Altima is under the knife. I'm considering a '97-'99 Maxima SE, as I've always loved the look of this car, and I wouldn't mind owning a VQ.
My question is(and yes, I have searched), has anyone managed to swap out the rear live axle with the independent suspension out of another model(another gen Maxima, perhaps)? It is the only thing about this car that kind of bugs me.
Thanks!
P.S. Wouldn't mind picking up a '99 SE, as I hear they have LSD. Do ALL of the 99s come with LSD?
My question is(and yes, I have searched), has anyone managed to swap out the rear live axle with the independent suspension out of another model(another gen Maxima, perhaps)? It is the only thing about this car that kind of bugs me.
Thanks!
P.S. Wouldn't mind picking up a '99 SE, as I hear they have LSD. Do ALL of the 99s come with LSD?
#5383
Rough Idle... always wants to die under load
Hey guys, obviously new to the site. Got the car a few months ago from my dad with 74000 miles on it. Everything was fine until one morning it didnt want to start. He had told me everything was original that that no maintnence other then oil changes had been done. So first thing that came to mind was the fuel filter. So I changed that, but it didnt really do anything. it pretty much came to the point where I would have to just crank it forever and day. I ended up killing the battery, got a new one and all the problems went away. everything was fine for about a month and then it started pullin this crap where it would just randomly die. It was a once in a blue moon kinda thing so I didnt worry about it much. Finally the check engine light came on, pulled the codes and it gave me a cylinder 2 misfire. So I pulled The coil and noticed the plug cylinder was filled with oil. So I replace all seals in both valve covers and changed the spark plugs hoping that would cure my sick maxi but nope, still have the same problem. It idles at about 500RPM with a shudder. I have no where near the same amount of power as when I first got the car, and im going through gas like crazy. I managed to pull the new codes...
1008
0201
0304
The only code that I could diagnose was a bad coil. Im not sure about the others. Anyone else have this problem? Im not sure what else it could be. Im going to get a new coil this weekend. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance for yalls help!!
1008
0201
0304
The only code that I could diagnose was a bad coil. Im not sure about the others. Anyone else have this problem? Im not sure what else it could be. Im going to get a new coil this weekend. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance for yalls help!!
#5384
Have a 1995 Max with whinning noise coming from the engine. Is there a tensioner or certain pully that tends to go bad on these constantly? Havent gotten to run the CEL yet but when i do i'll be sure to let you know what it's telling me.
#5385
I'm looking into buying a daily driver for use while my '99 Altima is under the knife. I'm considering a '97-'99 Maxima SE, as I've always loved the look of this car, and I wouldn't mind owning a VQ.
My question is(and yes, I have searched), has anyone managed to swap out the rear live axle with the independent suspension out of another model(another gen Maxima, perhaps)? It is the only thing about this car that kind of bugs me.
Thanks!
P.S. Wouldn't mind picking up a '99 SE, as I hear they have LSD. Do ALL of the 99s come with LSD?
My question is(and yes, I have searched), has anyone managed to swap out the rear live axle with the independent suspension out of another model(another gen Maxima, perhaps)? It is the only thing about this car that kind of bugs me.
Thanks!
P.S. Wouldn't mind picking up a '99 SE, as I hear they have LSD. Do ALL of the 99s come with LSD?
2. No 99's come with LSD. Only the Canadian models had LSD as an option.
#5386
Hey guys, obviously new to the site. Got the car a few months ago from my dad with 74000 miles on it. Everything was fine until one morning it didnt want to start. He had told me everything was original that that no maintnence other then oil changes had been done. So first thing that came to mind was the fuel filter. So I changed that, but it didnt really do anything. it pretty much came to the point where I would have to just crank it forever and day. I ended up killing the battery, got a new one and all the problems went away. everything was fine for about a month and then it started pullin this crap where it would just randomly die. It was a once in a blue moon kinda thing so I didnt worry about it much. Finally the check engine light came on, pulled the codes and it gave me a cylinder 2 misfire. So I pulled The coil and noticed the plug cylinder was filled with oil. So I replace all seals in both valve covers and changed the spark plugs hoping that would cure my sick maxi but nope, still have the same problem. It idles at about 500RPM with a shudder. I have no where near the same amount of power as when I first got the car, and im going through gas like crazy. I managed to pull the new codes...
1008
0201
0304
The only code that I could diagnose was a bad coil. Im not sure about the others. Anyone else have this problem? Im not sure what else it could be. Im going to get a new coil this weekend. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance for yalls help!!
1008
0201
0304
The only code that I could diagnose was a bad coil. Im not sure about the others. Anyone else have this problem? Im not sure what else it could be. Im going to get a new coil this weekend. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance for yalls help!!
What year max do you have? What brand sparkplugs did you recently put in? Gapped right?
Coils could be your problem for sure.
#5387
Nope, no particular pulley is known to go bad on the Max. Check your belt, and the check the tension to begin with. Then start looking at the pulleys etc
#5388
1008 - EVAP Canister Purge Volume Control Valve
0201 - Ignition Signal Circuit
0304 - Knock Sensor
1995, NKG Platinums, .044 Gap (what the autozone guy said it should be)
#5389
None of those three items would cause your Max to shudder. A bad KS will definetely rob you of power though.
Since you say it shudders, and you're going through gas fast, I'd check the fuel injectors, maybe one is clogged/stuck open. While you have the intake manifold off, test/replace the KS if need be.
#5390
Spark plugs are correct, and IIRC, they're gapped right too.
None of those three items would cause your Max to shudder. A bad KS will definetely rob you of power though.
Since you say it shudders, and you're going through gas fast, I'd check the fuel injectors, maybe one is clogged/stuck open. While you have the intake manifold off, test/replace the KS if need be.
None of those three items would cause your Max to shudder. A bad KS will definetely rob you of power though.
Since you say it shudders, and you're going through gas fast, I'd check the fuel injectors, maybe one is clogged/stuck open. While you have the intake manifold off, test/replace the KS if need be.
#5392
Injectors = resistance also, if I remember correctly. You only have to take the manifold off for the rear injectors.
#5393
Squeaking
Thanks Wizard. I'll be checking it out tomorrow. It's been sitting for about a year and a half so maybe it needs to be run a bit.
#5394
Got a P100 and P325 that happened two days after my smooth running 154k miles 1995 Maxima did a couple jolts and partial loss of power and then cruised smoothly there-after.
I was told on another thread that this is a dirty MAP sensor and I must clean it. Is the P325 a "result" of the dirty MAP/P100, and not the issue?
On my year Maxima, the P325 is the NOX sensor and it involves doing a very labor-intensive and expensive job of removing both intake manifolds to replace the NOX sensor.
Please, oh please tell me that the MAP sensor cleaning or fix would stop the P325 CEL, in addition to the MAP Sensor P100 code?
I went ahead and cleared the codes yesterday, and filled the tank with the high octane fuel. I've been using unleaded regular for years without any problems, but wonder if I got a bad batch of unleaded regular.
Is cleaning a MAP sensor fairly easy. I have changed the starter, on the Maxima and the plugs, and even the belt, and will tackle a thermostat/water pump, but is the MAP sensor cleaning or servicing very involved?
I was told on another thread that this is a dirty MAP sensor and I must clean it. Is the P325 a "result" of the dirty MAP/P100, and not the issue?
On my year Maxima, the P325 is the NOX sensor and it involves doing a very labor-intensive and expensive job of removing both intake manifolds to replace the NOX sensor.
Please, oh please tell me that the MAP sensor cleaning or fix would stop the P325 CEL, in addition to the MAP Sensor P100 code?
I went ahead and cleared the codes yesterday, and filled the tank with the high octane fuel. I've been using unleaded regular for years without any problems, but wonder if I got a bad batch of unleaded regular.
Is cleaning a MAP sensor fairly easy. I have changed the starter, on the Maxima and the plugs, and even the belt, and will tackle a thermostat/water pump, but is the MAP sensor cleaning or servicing very involved?
Last edited by eightball; 02-09-2010 at 08:57 AM.
#5395
Maxima replacement parts
Can anyone recommend a good site to purchase some replacement parts? Such as power steering pump, radiator, clutch kit. Of course looking for some good prices and quality. Thanks.
#5396
Blown head gasket - dump or new engine?
I have a 96 Maxima GXE with 130K. I bought it with 15K miles so I have been the only driver basically.
Anyway, apparently I have a blown head gasket. One day the engine quit on the freeway and I had a leaky water pump and all my coolant was gone.
I put in the Blue Devil engine sealant and the white smoke stopped coming out of my exhaust pipe, but it only lasted 3 weeks and it is back. Mechanic says I need to replace engine.
My question is: Is there a place to buy and replace engines and if so, is that worth it?
OR is there any better/cheaper options in fixing the head gasket issue?
OR do I just dump a great car and go buy a new Maxima?
Thanks for any advice.
Markham
Anyway, apparently I have a blown head gasket. One day the engine quit on the freeway and I had a leaky water pump and all my coolant was gone.
I put in the Blue Devil engine sealant and the white smoke stopped coming out of my exhaust pipe, but it only lasted 3 weeks and it is back. Mechanic says I need to replace engine.
My question is: Is there a place to buy and replace engines and if so, is that worth it?
OR is there any better/cheaper options in fixing the head gasket issue?
OR do I just dump a great car and go buy a new Maxima?
Thanks for any advice.
Markham
#5397
I have a 96 Maxima GXE with 130K. I bought it with 15K miles so I have been the only driver basically.
Anyway, apparently I have a blown head gasket. One day the engine quit on the freeway and I had a leaky water pump and all my coolant was gone.
I put in the Blue Devil engine sealant and the white smoke stopped coming out of my exhaust pipe, but it only lasted 3 weeks and it is back. Mechanic says I need to replace engine.
My question is: Is there a place to buy and replace engines and if so, is that worth it?
OR is there any better/cheaper options in fixing the head gasket issue?
OR do I just dump a great car and go buy a new Maxima?
Thanks for any advice.
Markham
Anyway, apparently I have a blown head gasket. One day the engine quit on the freeway and I had a leaky water pump and all my coolant was gone.
I put in the Blue Devil engine sealant and the white smoke stopped coming out of my exhaust pipe, but it only lasted 3 weeks and it is back. Mechanic says I need to replace engine.
My question is: Is there a place to buy and replace engines and if so, is that worth it?
OR is there any better/cheaper options in fixing the head gasket issue?
OR do I just dump a great car and go buy a new Maxima?
Thanks for any advice.
Markham
Or you can just tear the motor apart and replace the head gasket. Do some searching around and see what you can find...your call!
#5399