NOOBIES: "I AM NEW HERE BUT HAVE A QUESTION" thread. Read FIRST post BEFORE posting!
#5761
Non-Bose Radio Problem
It's a 99 Maxima with the non-Bose, non-CD factory head unit. The unit powers up but no sound comes from the speakers. It previously worked fine, but I don't know where to start for fixing the problem.
#5763
#5765
I'm in the market for a Maxima, but I want to get one that has the xenon lights from the factory. Were these put in the Maxima based on year, or by trim?
What year did they start making Maximas with Xenon lights?
What are the differences between the different trim levels? (SE, GXE, etc.)
If I wanted something extremely reliable, would I shy away from the Maxima?
If I could choose between standard and automatic, which would be more reliable?
Do specific trims come with automatic A/C, Sunroof, Leather interior?
Paul
What year did they start making Maximas with Xenon lights?
What are the differences between the different trim levels? (SE, GXE, etc.)
If I wanted something extremely reliable, would I shy away from the Maxima?
If I could choose between standard and automatic, which would be more reliable?
Do specific trims come with automatic A/C, Sunroof, Leather interior?
Paul
#5767
Vegas,
THe car sputtering is a classic MAF issue. If the car hesitates to rev above 2500 rppm then your MAF is on its way out. FSM would have told u this. Unforunately, a malfunctioning MAF will not throw a CEL. However, ur other issues may be related.
Buy some MAF spray cleaner and spray the wire element inside the MAF. Read the how-tos to see how to do this.
See sig
THe car sputtering is a classic MAF issue. If the car hesitates to rev above 2500 rppm then your MAF is on its way out. FSM would have told u this. Unforunately, a malfunctioning MAF will not throw a CEL. However, ur other issues may be related.
Buy some MAF spray cleaner and spray the wire element inside the MAF. Read the how-tos to see how to do this.
See sig
Thank you sir I will do this since it's cheaper than buying coils although someone made me an offer on some coils that I can't turn down as long as they are all in working order I will be grabbing these...
#5769
Factory Head unit prolly dead....get urself a Aftermarket HU with 6 preouts. Sony or Pioneer FTW
#5770
I'm in the market for a Maxima, but I want to get one that has the xenon lights from the factory. Were these put in the Maxima based on year, or by trim?
What year did they start making Maximas with Xenon lights?
What are the differences between the different trim levels? (SE, GXE, etc.)
If I wanted something extremely reliable, would I shy away from the Maxima?
If I could choose between standard and automatic, which would be more reliable?
Do specific trims come with automatic A/C, Sunroof, Leather interior?
Paul
What year did they start making Maximas with Xenon lights?
What are the differences between the different trim levels? (SE, GXE, etc.)
If I wanted something extremely reliable, would I shy away from the Maxima?
If I could choose between standard and automatic, which would be more reliable?
Do specific trims come with automatic A/C, Sunroof, Leather interior?
Paul
Tranny is personal preference. Auto is more reliable, 5 spd is more fun (to me).
You can always buy Xenon bulbs and jus replace your stock headlights with them.
Maxima or nissan in general is not as maintenance free as toyota. But they are WAYYYYYYY more fun to drive. The Maxi is a good car but u need to have the preventative maintenacen attuitude. Its not a worry free car and there are alotta sensors on it that can make u pull ur hair. Even still with all its sensors and maintenance...the 4th gen 5 spd will always be my car of choice!!!
#5771
4th gen vs 5th gen...
If someone has asked this already, please point me the right way as search didn't.
I am right now looking at a '97 4th gen SE, manual with 240k km on it. Nice rims and a custom amp. And at a '00 5th gen SE with a manual and 230k km on it as well. Stock alloys.
Both are top of the line fully loaded (leather, sun roof, climate control, the works)
The '00 is about $500 more (which is not much)
My question is, given that most of the options are identical, and the mileage is nearly the same, and price isn't much different. Which is the better car?
I know the 4th gen has less weight, but the 5th gen got more HP, BUT does that really matter in real world situation?
(PS I will buy one or the other, loved maximas since my dad bought one 8 years ago - 400k km and still running well!)
I am right now looking at a '97 4th gen SE, manual with 240k km on it. Nice rims and a custom amp. And at a '00 5th gen SE with a manual and 230k km on it as well. Stock alloys.
Both are top of the line fully loaded (leather, sun roof, climate control, the works)
The '00 is about $500 more (which is not much)
My question is, given that most of the options are identical, and the mileage is nearly the same, and price isn't much different. Which is the better car?
I know the 4th gen has less weight, but the 5th gen got more HP, BUT does that really matter in real world situation?
(PS I will buy one or the other, loved maximas since my dad bought one 8 years ago - 400k km and still running well!)
#5772
2005 Maxima SE V6..87K miles..
Hi, So I take the wife to lunch today, AC works fine...We finish eating, get back in the car, and I hit the arrow up for the fan to come on and NO Fan...Sounds like the AC is kicking on, but no air coming out..Like the blower or fan is not coming on..the panel is lite up, and it shows the bars for increased power (ie 1-4) but still no air...
Possible Solutions? I didn't see a fuse to check, I looked under drivers side panel, and there are 2 places marked Blower...both fuses looked fine.. Is there another location to check?
Thanks in advance..
Randy
Hi, So I take the wife to lunch today, AC works fine...We finish eating, get back in the car, and I hit the arrow up for the fan to come on and NO Fan...Sounds like the AC is kicking on, but no air coming out..Like the blower or fan is not coming on..the panel is lite up, and it shows the bars for increased power (ie 1-4) but still no air...
Possible Solutions? I didn't see a fuse to check, I looked under drivers side panel, and there are 2 places marked Blower...both fuses looked fine.. Is there another location to check?
Thanks in advance..
Randy
#5774
Yes, all new parts and seals were installed. The pump ran for almost 2500 miles without a problem. I believe the bearing failure let the water pass into the oil. If I could post a video showing the movement of the impeller in relation to the housing it might help explain this. Basically it is an opening from the water side of the pump to the oil side.
#5775
http://s1036.photobucket.com/albums/...t=MVI_2343.flv
poor quality video, but shows movement of the impeller within the housing.
poor quality video, but shows movement of the impeller within the housing.
#5776
REad the FAQs for a list of the differnece between the trim levels.
Tranny is personal preference. Auto is more reliable, 5 spd is more fun (to me).
You can always buy Xenon bulbs and jus replace your stock headlights with them.
Maxima or nissan in general is not as maintenance free as toyota. But they are WAYYYYYYY more fun to drive. The Maxi is a good car but u need to have the preventative maintenacen attuitude. Its not a worry free car and there are alotta sensors on it that can make u pull ur hair. Even still with all its sensors and maintenance...the 4th gen 5 spd will always be my car of choice!!!
Tranny is personal preference. Auto is more reliable, 5 spd is more fun (to me).
You can always buy Xenon bulbs and jus replace your stock headlights with them.
Maxima or nissan in general is not as maintenance free as toyota. But they are WAYYYYYYY more fun to drive. The Maxi is a good car but u need to have the preventative maintenacen attuitude. Its not a worry free car and there are alotta sensors on it that can make u pull ur hair. Even still with all its sensors and maintenance...the 4th gen 5 spd will always be my car of choice!!!
And side note... Learn how to consolidate your post, use line breaks, I was thinking each reply was a new person for awhile lol.
If someone has asked this already, please point me the right way as search didn't.
I am right now looking at a '97 4th gen SE, manual with 240k km on it. Nice rims and a custom amp. And at a '00 5th gen SE with a manual and 230k km on it as well. Stock alloys.
Both are top of the line fully loaded (leather, sun roof, climate control, the works)
The '00 is about $500 more (which is not much)
My question is, given that most of the options are identical, and the mileage is nearly the same, and price isn't much different. Which is the better car?
I know the 4th gen has less weight, but the 5th gen got more HP, BUT does that really matter in real world situation?
(PS I will buy one or the other, loved maximas since my dad bought one 8 years ago - 400k km and still running well!)
I am right now looking at a '97 4th gen SE, manual with 240k km on it. Nice rims and a custom amp. And at a '00 5th gen SE with a manual and 230k km on it as well. Stock alloys.
Both are top of the line fully loaded (leather, sun roof, climate control, the works)
The '00 is about $500 more (which is not much)
My question is, given that most of the options are identical, and the mileage is nearly the same, and price isn't much different. Which is the better car?
I know the 4th gen has less weight, but the 5th gen got more HP, BUT does that really matter in real world situation?
(PS I will buy one or the other, loved maximas since my dad bought one 8 years ago - 400k km and still running well!)
Power in a real world situation? The 4th gen would be better. The best way I've experienced it is... The 4th gen is "Quicker" yet the 5th gen is "Faster". In day to day task high top ends aren't really needed, it's usually that quick "oomph" that most daily drivers tend to notice. Now on the track @ the 1/4, the 5th gen would win hands down, but how often do you smash the pedal to the floor in 3rd gear to enjoy that difference? Yah thought so...
In the end though, neither car is perfect (all gens have their downfalls), I would definitely let the carfax decide which car to buy.
Last edited by aackshun; 05-06-2010 at 11:53 PM.
#5777
Hey all! Great site here. Used the information here to replace all six of my '99 Maxima's injection coils. (130k miles, one owner before me, and the previous owner was OCD about it)
The ignition coil codes were being thrown with rough idle, and I just decided to replace them all and be done with it rather than deal with it again later. So, that took care of that problem.
However, there's another problem (that I figured would go away with the ignition coils) - there's a sound while the engine is in high RPMs and only while driving. No sound if I rev it up in neutral.
It sounds kind of like a chain, it's very hard to explain. Best example I could think of is it sounds like an anchor being dropped from a boat (the chain clicking against the surface as it falls) except a bit higher pitch and a lot faster.
Second - just started today - is a buzzing when idle. ONLY when idling (in any gear). If I apply any pressure to the gas, the buzzing goes away, and then it comes on INSTANTLY when the car is back to idle.
Any thoughts?
The ignition coil codes were being thrown with rough idle, and I just decided to replace them all and be done with it rather than deal with it again later. So, that took care of that problem.
However, there's another problem (that I figured would go away with the ignition coils) - there's a sound while the engine is in high RPMs and only while driving. No sound if I rev it up in neutral.
It sounds kind of like a chain, it's very hard to explain. Best example I could think of is it sounds like an anchor being dropped from a boat (the chain clicking against the surface as it falls) except a bit higher pitch and a lot faster.
Second - just started today - is a buzzing when idle. ONLY when idling (in any gear). If I apply any pressure to the gas, the buzzing goes away, and then it comes on INSTANTLY when the car is back to idle.
Any thoughts?
#5778
Yes, all new parts and seals were installed. The pump ran for almost 2500 miles without a problem. I believe the bearing failure let the water pass into the oil. If I could post a video showing the movement of the impeller in relation to the housing it might help explain this. Basically it is an opening from the water side of the pump to the oil side.
Yeah thats a crappy pump. I wd contact the company and raise hell. See a lawyer, seriously
#5779
Couldn't have said it any better myself.
And side note... Learn how to consolidate your post, use line breaks, I was thinking each reply was a new person for awhile lol.
Get a 4th gen, of course this is probably the only answer you are going to get from this section, but base on my experience, there are a couple of common failures known to 5th gens not known to the 4th.
Power in a real world situation? The 4th gen would be better. The best way I've experienced it is... The 4th gen is "Quicker" yet the 5th gen is "Faster". In day to day task high top ends aren't really needed, it's usually that quick "oomph" that most daily drivers tend to notice. Now on the track @ the 1/4, the 5th gen would win hands down, but how often do you smash the pedal to the floor in 3rd gear to enjoy that difference? Yah thought so...
In the end though, neither car is perfect (all gens have their downfalls), I would definitely let the carfax decide which car to buy.
And side note... Learn how to consolidate your post, use line breaks, I was thinking each reply was a new person for awhile lol.
Get a 4th gen, of course this is probably the only answer you are going to get from this section, but base on my experience, there are a couple of common failures known to 5th gens not known to the 4th.
Power in a real world situation? The 4th gen would be better. The best way I've experienced it is... The 4th gen is "Quicker" yet the 5th gen is "Faster". In day to day task high top ends aren't really needed, it's usually that quick "oomph" that most daily drivers tend to notice. Now on the track @ the 1/4, the 5th gen would win hands down, but how often do you smash the pedal to the floor in 3rd gear to enjoy that difference? Yah thought so...
In the end though, neither car is perfect (all gens have their downfalls), I would definitely let the carfax decide which car to buy.
Yo aack,
Its cool see a fellow Vet help out the Noobs. Fallen too. Yo man the noobiness in here is astouding lol
____
I have driven the 5th gen and i wasnt too impressed. It feels like a 4th gen to me, jus not as quick. Or maybe its the fact that the 5th gen has more HP, and u expect it to be quicker but then when u drive the car, u feel dissappointed because the additional power isnt felt. Or at least thats how i felt when i test drove a 5th gen.
THat being sd, the quickness wasnt a real deal breaker for me. Its similar to the 4th gen so i cant complain too much. But the 4th gen is more reliable to me.
Put it like this, if the 4th gens 5spd were hard to find, i wd get a 5th gen. But the next max i wd get is the 6th gen 6 spd MT or the 04 g35x 6 spd MT. Yup yup
Last edited by cashoit; 05-07-2010 at 07:25 AM.
#5780
Hey all! Great site here. Used the information here to replace all six of my '99 Maxima's injection coils. (130k miles, one owner before me, and the previous owner was OCD about it)
The ignition coil codes were being thrown with rough idle, and I just decided to replace them all and be done with it rather than deal with it again later. So, that took care of that problem.
However, there's another problem (that I figured would go away with the ignition coils) - there's a sound while the engine is in high RPMs and only while driving. No sound if I rev it up in neutral.
It sounds kind of like a chain, it's very hard to explain. Best example I could think of is it sounds like an anchor being dropped from a boat (the chain clicking against the surface as it falls) except a bit higher pitch and a lot faster.
Second - just started today - is a buzzing when idle. ONLY when idling (in any gear). If I apply any pressure to the gas, the buzzing goes away, and then it comes on INSTANTLY when the car is back to idle.
Any thoughts?
The ignition coil codes were being thrown with rough idle, and I just decided to replace them all and be done with it rather than deal with it again later. So, that took care of that problem.
However, there's another problem (that I figured would go away with the ignition coils) - there's a sound while the engine is in high RPMs and only while driving. No sound if I rev it up in neutral.
It sounds kind of like a chain, it's very hard to explain. Best example I could think of is it sounds like an anchor being dropped from a boat (the chain clicking against the surface as it falls) except a bit higher pitch and a lot faster.
Second - just started today - is a buzzing when idle. ONLY when idling (in any gear). If I apply any pressure to the gas, the buzzing goes away, and then it comes on INSTANTLY when the car is back to idle.
Any thoughts?
What year car u got? If 95/96 u have the old style tensioner and those have lower reliablity that 97-99. Dont worry bout it too much tho. The chain can take a pounding. Jus make sure u keep up on oil changes. THere are some ppl on the org who have had the niose for 50k+ miles and still going strong.
You can replace tensioner now if u want cuz it is substantially cheaper and easier to replace tensioner than it is to replace chain and guides. but still dont fret, u can always replace the the engine. ITs easeier/cheaper to replace engine than the chain.
#5781
I changed the coil packs and its running like a dream again. Give it a try. We'll see how long it lasts. Thanks everyone for the help
#5783
Really don't want to start a new thread to ask my question so I will just ask it here.
Will 3.5 coils (from an 03) work on my 3.0 4th gen ?
Im asking because I can get them for free from a junker thats already been
written off ^^ my other car needs coils and I really dont feel like paying 50
bucks for a coil right now. I can also get coils from a 02 Sentra with the QR25DE
Will coils from that engine also work ??
Will 3.5 coils (from an 03) work on my 3.0 4th gen ?
Im asking because I can get them for free from a junker thats already been
written off ^^ my other car needs coils and I really dont feel like paying 50
bucks for a coil right now. I can also get coils from a 02 Sentra with the QR25DE
Will coils from that engine also work ??
#5784
'95 SE, 133k mi
#5785
2005 Maxima SE V6..87K miles..
Hi, So I take the wife to lunch today, AC works fine...We finish eating, get back in the car, and I hit the arrow up for the fan to come on and NO Fan...Sounds like the AC is kicking on, but no air coming out..Like the blower or fan is not coming on..the panel is lite up, and it shows the bars for increased power (ie 1-4) but still no air...
Possible Solutions? I didn't see a fuse to check, I looked under drivers side panel, and there are 2 places marked Blower...both fuses looked fine.. Is there another location to check?
Thanks in advance..
Randy
Hi, So I take the wife to lunch today, AC works fine...We finish eating, get back in the car, and I hit the arrow up for the fan to come on and NO Fan...Sounds like the AC is kicking on, but no air coming out..Like the blower or fan is not coming on..the panel is lite up, and it shows the bars for increased power (ie 1-4) but still no air...
Possible Solutions? I didn't see a fuse to check, I looked under drivers side panel, and there are 2 places marked Blower...both fuses looked fine.. Is there another location to check?
Thanks in advance..
Randy
That's an easy one... Insert correct answer here....................
#5786
did you look under the hood for fuses also if your car is not a 4th gen (95-99) may be a reason for the no response if its not a 4th gen then go to the 6th gen section and post seems to me though ur issues is either a fuse blown, wiring short, or ur blower motor is shot
#5787
I have a 96 SE and I recently installed a Progress RSB. Problem is that I cant get the parking brake cables back on to the trailing arm due to the interference of the RSB's bracket. Right now I have it zip tied to the bracket but if I decide to upgrade with tire/wheel width it might get in the way. Any suggestions? Reroute the cable? Pic...
#5790
2005 Maxima SE V6..87K miles..
Hi, So I take the wife to lunch today, AC works fine...We finish eating, get back in the car, and I hit the arrow up for the fan to come on and NO Fan...Sounds like the AC is kicking on, but no air coming out..Like the blower or fan is not coming on..the panel is lite up, and it shows the bars for increased power (ie 1-4) but still no air...
Possible Solutions? I didn't see a fuse to check, I looked under drivers side panel, and there are 2 places marked Blower...both fuses looked fine.. Is there another location to check?
Thanks in advance..
Randy
Hi, So I take the wife to lunch today, AC works fine...We finish eating, get back in the car, and I hit the arrow up for the fan to come on and NO Fan...Sounds like the AC is kicking on, but no air coming out..Like the blower or fan is not coming on..the panel is lite up, and it shows the bars for increased power (ie 1-4) but still no air...
Possible Solutions? I didn't see a fuse to check, I looked under drivers side panel, and there are 2 places marked Blower...both fuses looked fine.. Is there another location to check?
Thanks in advance..
Randy
You have two options:
1. buy a new one $20-$30
2. pull it out from under your glove box (two phillips screws) and bust out your soldering iron and try to re-solder the connections on the top (the bumps) of the board.
It's easy and worked for me. Good luck.
#5791
A quick search for something like "fan doesn't work" or the like would have shown you that the blower motor resistor is broken.
You have two options:
1. buy a new one $20-$30
2. pull it out from under your glove box (two phillips screws) and bust out your soldering iron and try to re-solder the connections on the top (the bumps) of the board.
It's easy and worked for me. Good luck.
You have two options:
1. buy a new one $20-$30
2. pull it out from under your glove box (two phillips screws) and bust out your soldering iron and try to re-solder the connections on the top (the bumps) of the board.
It's easy and worked for me. Good luck.
I am thinking it is a wire, or resistor issue at this point, as it started working this morning for a while, then stopped...then started blowing again...
Thanks for the reply...
#5793
#5798
#5799
99 Max Knock Sensor HELP?
Hello All, I am happy to say I am a new member. I am not a mechanic by any means but I understand the basics.
I have been thru many threads and haven't seen anything like this, so I ask...
when trying to replace my knock sensor I have something in the way. It has some, what i believe to be regular vacuum hoses on it. I was hoping someone else has had to deal with this and can maybe help. My hands are way to fat to get anything underneath it, and i am not totally sure if I can take this thing off or not.
Thanks
Tim
I have been thru many threads and haven't seen anything like this, so I ask...
when trying to replace my knock sensor I have something in the way. It has some, what i believe to be regular vacuum hoses on it. I was hoping someone else has had to deal with this and can maybe help. My hands are way to fat to get anything underneath it, and i am not totally sure if I can take this thing off or not.
Thanks
Tim
#5800
Thanks a lot again, all.
Okay, real quick question... I'm getting a P1320 and a P0301, cylinder 1.
Cylinders:
====
1 3 5
2 4 6
====
(front of car)
Right?
Well on the 1st cylinder, the misfiring one, the plug that goes into the coil injector does not snap on. It will slide on, and stay on, but a tug will pull it right off, no reason to use the tab to unclip it because... it doesn't snap on.
I'm fairly certain that it's the problem. Any idea what this connectors are named specifically? (Preferably the whole set - might as well do it all at once!)
I did search but it's kind of hard to find since all I can ask is 'those plugs that go into coil injectors', and 'plugs' brings up 'spark plugs'.
Thanks a ton.
Edit: Also, I've read a lot of people online saying 'unplug the coil injector to see if that's the misfiring cylinder while the car is running' (obviously meaning this plug I'm talking about, not removing the coil injector). Is this actually *safe*?
Okay, real quick question... I'm getting a P1320 and a P0301, cylinder 1.
Cylinders:
====
1 3 5
2 4 6
====
(front of car)
Right?
Well on the 1st cylinder, the misfiring one, the plug that goes into the coil injector does not snap on. It will slide on, and stay on, but a tug will pull it right off, no reason to use the tab to unclip it because... it doesn't snap on.
I'm fairly certain that it's the problem. Any idea what this connectors are named specifically? (Preferably the whole set - might as well do it all at once!)
I did search but it's kind of hard to find since all I can ask is 'those plugs that go into coil injectors', and 'plugs' brings up 'spark plugs'.
Thanks a ton.
Edit: Also, I've read a lot of people online saying 'unplug the coil injector to see if that's the misfiring cylinder while the car is running' (obviously meaning this plug I'm talking about, not removing the coil injector). Is this actually *safe*?
Last edited by tnok85; 05-14-2010 at 07:08 AM.