I think I found the answer. For some reason it looks like with the bumper piece being broke or missing the cruise switch thinks the brake pedal is pressed down all the time causing it not to engage. Am I close?

 

That's it exactly. With the plastic bumper missing, nothing touches the switch, so it's like the brake pedal is depressed all the time.

 

Hello everyone! I need help!

My dad says his Maxima started using too much fuel. He says it now burns up 5 gallons for only 60 miles, which is 12 miles per gallon (this is freeway and city together).

The only maintenance he has been doing to the car is regular oil and oil filter changes. The car just passed its 100,000 mile mark!

He also says the water in his radiator started slowly decreasing ONLY IF THE CAR IS DRIVEN. If the car just sits turned off, there is no leaking water under the car.

So I have 3 questions:

1.) What could be causing the high fuel usage?

2.) What do we need to replace on the car after it has passed 100,000 miles?

3.) What could be causing the radiator water to decrease?

 

I don't know of any stores in houston, I shop in my area. The stores I go to may also have a store in Houston or a town that is maybe closer to you. When I buy things, I do not always buy from the same store. Some of the stores I buy from are O'Reilly's Auto parts (www.oreillyauto.com), Autozone (www.autozone.com) Napa Auto Parts (www.napaonline.com - this website is hard to use). These three stores also have stores in Houston and Laredo. Autozone has the most stores, then O'Reilly then Napa.

A word of caution about Autozone - many members of Maxima.org that have bought rebuilt starters and alternators from Autozone have problems with them. I would suggest that you do not buy a starter or alternator from Autozone.

If you want (or need) to get Nissan parts, then you can call a Maxima.org member that works at a Nissan dealer in Austin TX. Tell him that you are a member of Maxima.org and he will give you good prices. But I do not know if he will ship to Mexico. He is

Dave Burnette
AKA Dave B
South Point Nissan
4914 South IH-35
Austin TX 78745
1-888-254-6060

Two more places that I buy Nissan Parts from are

Courtesy Nissan
Richardson, TX (a suburb of Dallas)
http://courtesyparts.com/

and
http://www.nissanpartszone.com/

Again, I do not know if they will ship to Mexico.

Maybe this can be of some help to you.

 

well if it were me looking at this car I would check the coolant temp sensor to see if its functioning properly. If it aint functioning properly the vehicles ecu could be thinking that its running cold at all times and it would try to compensate for that by increasing the fuel deliverd basicly the vehicle would never go into closed loop. as for the coolant loss it could be a slow leak. leaking onto an exhaust component and then evaporating hence why you never see a puddle on the ground. or it could also be a blown head gasket and the engine is burning the coolant in the combustion chamber. look throughly under the hood for coolant leaks but realisticly its going to be hard to diagnose this without the proper tools like a coolant pressure tester for the coolant and a scan tool that displays live data so you can check the collant temp sensor readings and maybe o2 sensor readings.

 

1 - Lots of possibilities here. First, is the Check Engine Light On? If no, does the Check Engine light come on when the key is turned to the ON position, just before you start the car? If yes, then the light works. Regardless, take the car to an auto parts store and ask them to read the codes. Unless you live in California. In California, Gov Jerry Brown took the money from the auto repair shop lobbyists and made this illegal. But bad O2 sensors, or a bad ECTS (Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor) are possibilities.

2- The following is recommended at 60K, so its almost ready for the second round. Spark plugs (80K). A cooling flush should be done, automatic transmission oil change, air filter, fuel filter, alternator & power steering belt.

3- If it is really as you state, then you may have a blown head gasket. But a car will rarely leak when the engine is turned off and cold. When the engine is hot, the cooling system is pressurized and then leaks. What may be happening is that the radiator is starting to leak (around the upper radiator hose is wayyy too common). The leak may be small enough that as it sprays out and lands on the hot engine, it evaporates. But because of the antifreeze, the engine looks like you drove through a mud puddle.

 

Problem

Solved with angle iron.

 

Thanks a bunch you both for the input!

Unfortunately we do live in California, so we can't go to a store to check the codes. We got them checked 8 years ago or so because we had the yellow "service engine soon" light. The results said it was the knock sensor and evap. My dad took apart the evap thing (I don't even know what that is) and cleaned it, and the yellow light disappeared. After a few years yellow light came on again, and again dad cleaned evap and the light disappeared. After a few years the light started coming on and off again, but he didn't do anything to the car... the light just stays on for a few days or weeks and then turns off. Recently it was on again, but now it turned off again.

Could the evap thing be causing fuel to evaporate and disappear?

Although I don't think I smelled fuel outside of the car before, however, I might have smelled fuel a couple times inside the car, not sure about that though.

 

There are several parts that have evap as part of the name, and they all deal with gas vapor fumes. I lean towards saying that they couldn't affect gas mileage by that much. But I could be wrong. A bad knock sensor would cause the ignition timing to be retarded, and that reduces gas mileage.

There is a self diagnostic proceedure that you could do and it would give you the codes that are causing the Check Engine light to be on. It's not that hard to do. You have to turn a screw on the ECU. Here is a how to video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3AYrS...C2C64F&index=3

The video was made by a Maxima.org member, Pmohr. On this video, remember that he said he has his ECU on a wire harness extender. You have to get down in the driver's side footwell and remove the plastic panel next to the gas pedal by pulling (and I mean pull) it off.

Yoy may want to bookmark this next link. It is all of Pmohr's how to videos.
http://www.youtube.com/view_play_lis...E3C3345DC2C64F

One last thing. If you have the knock sensor code, don't run out and buy a knock sensor. We refer to this code as a "ghost" code. It tends to show up with almost every other code. Fix everything else and see if it goes away.

One more last thing. You will need a FSM (Factory Service Manual) to decode the blinking check engine light. This info is within the first 5 pages of the EC section (Engine control). If you don't have one, you can download it from here.

http://boredmder.com/FSMs/Nissan/Maxima/ (this is Pmohr's website)

The file named fwd.pdf is the "cover page" file, the starting point.
The file named idx.pdf is the alphabetical index file.

 

My 4th gen A/T Shifter is loose. Is there a DIY to tighten it?

 

Hey, so, my engine does a little rocking and rolling when driving, and I also get a nice (small) "clunk" when I fully let out the clutch, or give it a lot of gas, or quickly let off the accelerator. I narrowed it down to a few things, engine mounts as one of them. Some of you guys' posts on here said "I checked them and xx mount was bad." How are you guys checking them? I can barely see mine, and most have a piece of metal covering one side. The one I am most concerned with is the rear, and looked at one in a junkyard today (easier than jacking up my own car, and I was already there for a headlight assembly. I guess I could rig up a system of mirrors, but... is there an easier way? Thanks in advance...
Mike

 

I would suggest investing in a OBD II code reader. You can get them as cheap as $25 on amazon, and the $25 has pretty good reviews. I have one, and it has saved my bacon on diagnostics a bunch of times. A lot easier to log onto the forums and just type in "code 1441" then trying to manually check each piece when your car's ecu and tell you where it thinks the problem is...

 

Have a second person help you. One of you watches the engine while the other person is giving the engine some gas with the transmission in gear, both forward and reverse. This is easier with an automatic transmission. If you have a manual trans, hope your parking brake works real good.

 

Hope I can post this question here. Have a 98 Maxima GXE Bought a rear spoiler for it at the salvage yard as I like the look of the maximas with the spoiler. Does anyone know if there is a template I can buy in order to know where to drill the holes for the spoiler?

 

Im in desperate need of suggestions, my 96 SE just took a crap yesterday. It will only start when the security light on the dash lights up which is intermittent. Also I've lost power to the windows, locks, sunroof, dash lights, tail lights, corner lights, radiator fans, stereo, and the interior blower motor. I've read through the forums but couldn't locate someone with the same problem. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

 

You either have several fuses blown or you could have a problem with the big wire harness connector that goes through the firewall that Nissan calls the "Super Multiple Junction or SMJ". You have fuses under the hood by the battery. The cover has the fuses labelled, so check the fuse labelled "TAIL", the "FL30A Power window". A bad ignition switch could cause a lot of these things to loose power, but not everything.

 

I'm looking to sell my vg30e. Actually two of them, but one doesn't run; it does have plenty of working parts, though. Any direction would be greatly appreciated

 

Hello to all . I have 98 5Spd SE and my first ever mod will be to lower the car ,after spending 3 years and 4k to get it in great working order.I have H&R springs to be installed next week, with recently installed KYB GR2's all around.(please comment on the spring and shock combo) I want to get a y pipe , that's all i can afford for now,what kind of sound and performance will i get with the rest of the exhaust being stock? Can I just put a magnaflow muffler on there or do I need another piece?

I don't like how the stock muffler looks and I don't want a huge barrel in the back ,just a nice looking 2.5" polished muffler. Any advice will be appreciated.Please don't kill me if I screwed up I 'm still not sure if I posted the question in the right place

 

I checked all fuses and none were blown. Some people have told me it could be the ignition switch. Your thoughts?

 

Thanks for the tip bro.


I know for a fact the car will last well over a year..which is why i'm at a crossroads with it.

The rust that is starting to show is light && could be done for cheap...it doesn't have to be show room prestine, but **** with some descent bodywork i think it could be saved...i wouldn't mind dumping like 1500 - 2000 into it for repairs (rust, front bumper/fender)..

just have to decide...&& i have a couple of months to do so..before this ****ty chicago winter hits.

which is why i asked; what would you guys do if you were in my shoes.


I surely am planning on buying another 4th gen, a clean one at that. There was one on CL last week for like 3500 with no rust & only 89,000.

 

I also said that the ignition switch could have a problem, but I can't see it as causing all the problems. I could always be wrong, though. I've never seen or read of anyone having this problem.

 

As I look at the power distribution diagram, there is a 120 (or 140) amp fuse that seems like it would power all the things that you say don't work. It also powers some things that you did not mention, like the horn, windshield wipers, cigarette lighter and some others.

This fuse is under the hood in the box by the battery, just about dead center. It will be labelled FL120A (or FL140A) BATTERY. California emissions and Federal emissions cars have different amperage fuses. If this fuse is blown, you could have a bad alternator.

 

At regular body shop rates, $2000 isn't a lot of repairs. I would suggest that you focus on finding the body repair shop/person and find out how far that $2000 will go. Then you will be in a position to make an educated decision.

 

I will check tomorrow on that fuse. Yeah the horn, windshield wipers, mirrors and fog lights don't work either. Thanks for the help man!

 

1995 Maxima GXE
268,000 miles
Automatic

Symptoms:
Been doing this the past couple fall/winters when the temps outside get cool, I'm driving then engine will race/surge up violently like to redline with no warning the car will not move like it is in neutral. When this surging happens sometimes I just let off the gas and sometimes it will stop doing it but other times when I again press the gas it is stuck in this surging mode but then stops doing it. Never happens in spring or summer when it is warm.

Recently replaced the fuel filter. IACV also was recently replaced. Last year one faulty fuel injector was changed. Transmission was serviced at 231,000 miles, new fluid and filter. Sparks plugs are in good shape NGK Iridium.

I have codes P0400 = EGR Flow Malfunction and P0136 = O2 Sensor Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1, Sensor 2). Codes were there since I got the car at 230,000 miles, my mechanic told me not to waste money replacing these parts since they do not check for them during inspections because the age of my car.

Thank you for any assistance.

 

I disagree with your mechanic. These problems affect the efficient running of the engine. The P0400 causes the equivalent of an intake manifold air leak. The ECU is going to try to keep the engine from dying out and tells the fuel injectors to inject more gasoline. This may be causing the surging.

As for the O2 sensors, the ECU also adjusts the amount of gas the fuel injectors squirt out. It could be more gas, it could be less gas, depending on the feedback from the sensors. Less gas and the engine runs lean and you would probably have pinging. More gas and the engine runs rich, reducing gas mileage slightly and makes the catalytic converter to work more and plug up sooner.

I would get them both fixed, the P0400 first.

 

I have a 98 maxima GXE that has the factory security light next to the cruise switch. I gave the Nissan dealer my vin code and he said the car originally came with a remote to lock/unlock doors. I ordered one online and got in locked all the doors and did the insert key 6-12 times. First I did it fast, then slow and nothing happens. Any idea what could be wrong?

 

This proceedure worked for me:

1. Unlock all doors and get in car.

2. Close and lock all doors with power door lock switch on driver's door.

3. Insert the igniton key and completely remove from the ignition switch
at least 6 times within 10 seconds. The hazard warning lamps (both turn
signals) will then flash twice and all previous codes will be cleared.

4. Turn ignition key to "ACC" position.

5. Push the "Lock" button on the new remote controller once. At this time,
the car learns the new ID code. The hazard warning lamps (both turn
signals) will then flash twice.

If you are programming just one remote, go to step 10.
If you need to activate additional remote controllers, continue with Step 6.

6. Manually unlock the driver's door only then lock again with door lock
****.

7. Push lock button on the additional remote controller once.

8. Hazard warning lamps (both turn signals) will then flash twice and
additional remote is programmed.

9. For additional remotes, go back to step 6.

10. When done, open the driver's door to exit programming state.


NOTE: A maximum of 4 remotes can be programmed to any ONE car.

 

I been trying steps 1-3 and no lights flash. Guess I will keep trying. Either I am doing something wrong or the remote system just doesn't work.

 

Might have to take it to the dealer to try. Hate to spend the $95.00 they want but I just can not get anything to flash.

 

Never mind I'm an idiot I guess. Went out there again and did the same thing I think and it worked perfect this time.

 

Hey guys, planning on adding some performance mods to my maxima so tell me what you think so I don't go around wasting my parents money!


LED Wheel Well Kits

Neon or LED Million color Underglow

Steerinig wheel grip (Honda Logo) I dig that.

Bigger Spoiler, one I had now wasn't getting enough down force, found myself hitting 60 in 55's only to find my car had too much power to handle.

New brake caliper paint, the red I have now is chipping!

POSSIBLY a Skyline GTR Badge. Won't add a lot of horse power but its better than nothing!

Colored window tint, once again, not much HP but still SOME.

Autozone Side Vents, not real but stick on just so I can atleast get a more aggressive look.

Decals. Nothing says fast better then some colored flames on my hood.


Stilld doing some revisions, so let me know what you think!

 

Performance Mods? Horse power from window tinting? That's some good dope you're on. Care to share?

 

It's was the 140A fuse. I appreciate it, thank you!

 

Ok found another way to go. I found a excellent shape trunk lid with the spoiler for $50.00 . It is off of a 99 maxima. Mine is a 98. Anyone know if they are the same and I can just take off my trunk lid and bolt this one right in? Will have to get it painted to match my car but the paint and body class at the local college can do it for $100

 

I have never tried to swap one, but based on part numbers, yes. If you were to go to Nissan and buy one, the 97, 98 and 99 are all the same part number. But originally the 97 and early production 98 had one part number, the late 98 and early 99 had another part number and the late 99 had a third part number, which is now the only part number for 97 through 99. Hopefully someone else will jump in that has body work experience and give you a "Yes, I've done it" confirmation.

 

My key fob works great. Locks, unlocks, rolls window down ect. My question is should the horn beep or lights flash when you lock or unlock? Neither one happens. Seems like something would happen to let you know it locked when you press the button.

MY power antenna works sometimes. It mainly stays in the up position. Sometimes out of the blue it will go down or go part way down. Is this a sign of a motor going bad?

 

When I use the key fob to lock the doors on my 97, the hazard flasher lights blink twice, both front and rear. When I unlock the doors, the interior dome light comes on, but no other indications.

The antenna is probably going bad. You could open the antenna motor and see if maybe there is corrosion in there. The antenna is a self contained unit.

 

i have a 99 with 188 thou miles on it. 5 spd.greddy exhaust. at high RPM, around 4000 and up. i get what sounds like alot of valve noise. only happens when car is under a load. wont do it if u jus sit there and rev it. car dosnt smoke at all. does run really rich for some reason. i guess my question is. could this be valve noise or somthing else?

 

I replaced my power antenae mast & now my key fob doesn't work. I did unplug the cat V looking cable from the keyless module as I had to remove antenae motor, but reconnected. I wouldn't think this would cause any issues.
I have tried to reprogram key fob but no luck. I have also replaced the battery.
Can the fobs just go bad & I need to buy another?

1995 maxima