You'll get mixed reviews about additives. I'd personally just do a tune up and run 93 for now on. as for KN (oil?) filters, i personally don't know cuz I always use OEM or Mobil1.

 

Thx 4 response I don't have the tools or resources to do on my own tryna see if autozone sell a good part

 

Yo guys - I think my engine is a little laggy these days. I was getting the EGR (0400 code) / ACV (I think) - but it disappeared... Anyways, looking at the data stream on my obdii I noticed the 'short term fuel trim B1S1 was 099% and B2S1 was 000% - that seems wrong to me! Any ideas if that could be related to a dirty ACV or something else?

 

Would a malfunctioning Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor cause the car to act funny, while driving, when engine is not fully warmed up yet?

Does a faulty or malfunctioning ECTS cause other like symptoms?

My car has some very slight hesitant feeling going up an incline, while not fully warmed up, as if the tranny is slipping, moreso feeling in 3rd.

 

ects will cause hard starts and hesitation while driving even if car is warmed up or not

 

THIS IS FOR THE 129,000 MILE CAR QUESTION.
Chevron Techron...Only additives people I know in the PCA "Porsche Club of America" will use, AND THEY RESEARCH THE HECK OUT OF THIS STUFF....Google it & see what you think... Also repalce the fuel filter if you have not already.
Premium fuel and new plugs couldnt hurt. Just be careful what BRAND of gas you use.
Hope this helps !

 

im new here to, im from nyc

 

These are nice
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...o-you-put.html

http://forums.maxima.org/fluids-lubr...-gasoline.html

 

This topic usually opens a Big Can of worms

http://forums.maxima.org/fluids-lubr...-gasoline.html

 

I have a 96 Nissan Maxima GLE that began losing power and after one drive up a short hill it lost about 80% of it's pull. I posted on here and other sites before regarding this problem and a majority of responses said its most likely the catalytic converter going out.

I am looking for someone in the area that can test and replace the part if necessary. Please email me at hourslost@yahoo.com or call (909)653-5265 and include an estimate of how much it'll run me for work and repairs.

 

I bought the filter/gasket from Napa for my 95 Max.

The directions tell me I can't remove the filter without removing the valve body, on trannies RL4F03A/V and RE4F03A, because one of the bolts that holds the filter in, is a reamer bolt, and wouldn't allow for to be screwed back in, once out.

The build date is 11/94.

What's the deal?

 

I was just wondering how does the stock audio system sound in the Maxima?

And/Or the Bose system?

Just wondering if I'm going to have to add subs to get some nice clean bass.

 

Thanks for the feedback everyone, switching to premium, changing fuel filter, tune up time.

 

I dropped the tranny pan on my Max today.(120k miles)

I don't know if it's ever been dropped or not, but I drained the fluid a few thousand miles ago before this.




How does it look?

I didn't remove the screen mesh/filter on the valve body. However, when I sprayed non chlorinated brake cleaner into the square hole of the filter/mesh, more tranny fluid came gushing out. So I reckon the screen was somewhat clogged, idk.

Did the flush, and only took about 4 quarts to do, because I had drained 6.5 quarts from the pan drop already.

Tranny shifts smoother, but the 3rd-4th pause still happens on light throttle, almost coasting. Not sure what it is still, even bought a new tps and adjusted correctly.

Should I pull the battery overnight?

 

im new to automatic transmissions...my max is my 1st auto car. i been reading the stickies, and my service manual. the service manual says basially remove the drain plug and refill. ok, sounds easy enough.

the stickies say to remove a return line for the tranny coolant line...and start the car for 20 seconds...and 2 qts come out of the tq converer at a time...

ok...so my question is do you drain and fill the tranny before you remove the return line for 20 seconds...until there is nothing left at all in the transmission and the tq converter?, OR do you drain the atf from the pan, refill, THEN remove the return line? im confused on that part...hope someone an clarify, sorry for such a noob *** question

 

Noob here- I have read many posts in the great forum but could not find a similar issue. Help! I am on the forth pull of my trans and cannot find the issue.

The quick facts: 1996 Maxima, 5spd., 182K miles. Transmission intermittently jams in 2nd gear while attempting to put it into reverse. Can only un-jam by draining fluid and ‘popping’ it out of 2nd through position sensor hole. The internals all ‘look’ good. Clean, no noticeable metal shavings, bearings look good. Shifts smooth and runs quiet through the forward gears.

Full story:
This is the 1st front-wheel-drive clutch replacement I have done. So, I attempted to pull off the transmission from what I thought was the bell housing. I could get it to separate about an inch or so and couldn’t figure out why I could not pull it all the way off until I took out the bolt holding the **** reverse shaft. I finally was successful in removing what I thought was the transmission. But I quickly found out it was just the case. I never used any prying tools but I did yank the **** out of it. Several parts fell out: Two plastic pieces and a check ball. I pulled the rest off successfully and installed the new clutch. The check ball was the 3rd/4th rod one. It had come through the hole into the transmission body. It took me a while to figure out where the pieces went and that I had to have all the gears in neutral (from reading posts on this great forum) while reassembling the case, then putting the check *****/springs back in for the 1st/2nd and 3rd/4th rods . When I had the transmission on the bench and back together, I was able to shift it through the gears fine. I installed it and put the car back together. All seemed well. I could shift it with the shifter through all the gears just fine. I started the car and test drove it and all went well. However, the next time I tried to back it up it seemed to “feel” different trying to get it in reverse. When I pulled it back in neutral, I could feel it wasn’t going over towards 1st/2nd. I could not get it in neutral. It was ‘stuck’ in second. I drained the fluid through the gear position sensor and could see in there that it was in second. I pushed it back into neutral and all shifted well. Refilled transmission and all seemed well. I shifted through all the gears at least a dozen times and all was well. When I started the card I repeated the same procedure, it seemed OK. And I drove it fine. At my second errand stop, the same thing happened when I was trying to get into reverse. I drove home in second. I repeated the above procedure again. This has occurred 5 times, always while attempting to shift into reverse. Does anyone out there know what I could have screwed-up while up taking the case apart to cause this? Some idea of where the problem lies? Somehow when I am attempting to put it in reverse, it goes into second and there is no way to get it out except by performing the above.

 

Can someone tell me where cylinder 3 is so i can change this coil pack

 

1 3 5 <-- back side of car/left side of engine near the firewall

2 4 6 <-- front side of car/right side of engine near radiator

 

Thanx Wizard

 

OK, I bought my nephews ol 95 Max while he is on vacation with the state. Im stripping it down for the sportsdromeonline.com FWD class coming up. His keys are with his personal stuff waiting for him to get released in December. Ive already hot wired the car, but the steering is locked... How can fix this?

One of my buddys told me that some old cars and motorcycles you can just manhandle the steering wheel one way and then it will break loose?

 

Any help is appreciated..

 

Also, where is the best place to cut off they exhaust for max power?

 

BTW, its for a little Figure 8 car...no worries about sound or emissions

 

I have a 98 maxima GLE and when I start the car it revs up just fine and then the RPMs drop really low and sometimes shutters and stalls. It only happens in the winter and it only happens when the engine is cold. Put in new plugs and I have to replace the knock sensor. Whats up with the stalling though? Also as the RPMs start to drop, I usually just give it some gas and rev it up for a few seconds and it will idle just fine.

 

How often to people check this forum?

 

Not every hour...

I searched(!) and found two useful threads for you:
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...-problems.html

http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...nsor-wire.html

Just check your ects with a multi-meter. If it's busted get one from whatever car parts store is closest, it might cost $20. It's very easy to change.

Good luck.

 

Thanks

 

im going to agree ects

 

1996 Maxima GLE. Was running fine but won't start this morning. Turned key and no juice at all, no dash lights, no nothing. I popped the hood and the first thing I see is that red plastic thingie with two wires going to it and attached to the positive post of the battery has corroded so bad it has broken off where the loop of it attaches to the battery post (now this is NOT the big battery cable it is two smaller wires that are in addtion to the big battery cable). This must be the problem, but I don't even know what the function of it is, and can I get an aftermarket one, or do I have to get it from Nissan? Could I bypass it and just connect those two wires directly to the battery? Like I said I don't even know what it's function is. Thanks in advance.

 

yes connect those directly to the positive terminal post all will be well

 

bump

 

Well, it sounds logical to drain and the refill and then disconnect the return line, that way you will flush the old stuff out with the new stuff. You will probably be able to notice when it's been flushed by the colour of the fluid coming out of the return line (it'll start to look new/pink in colour). Make sure to refill the transmission as you go, if you drain 2 quarts put 2 quarts back in, otherwise you will run it without enough fluid.

I was a little intimidated by taking the return line off and running the car when I changed my transmission fluid, so I just dropped the pan. But if I remember correctly, that's how it's done.

Best of luck!

 

Hey all! New to the site here. I was wondering if anyone's ever done a quad bucket seat conversion in one of these cars? I searched and didn't find anything about it.

I'm getting a '96 GLE with heated power leather, and thought it'd be a really interesting and unique first mod. I'd like to get heated power leather for the back too, and figure out a center console for it ( maybe a flip-up third seat from the front of a mid-to-late 90s Taurus/Sable so as to keep a middle seat but still have a console...).

Also, I'm not sure how much I'd have to modify the seat mounts or anything like that. I have access to a full array of tools, just wondering if anyone could give me any pointers. Thanks!

EDIT: I found one thread on it after lots of digging, and it seems like nobody thinks it can be done, but if anyone feels like trying it out, let me know what kind of work you have to do!

 

yea its definetley not hard buddy...all you need are the right seat brackets and some imagination. an easy way is to just take whats on the original maxima seats and make it fit on the seats your switching to.. then u you have to compensate for the stuff under the center console and decide where youre gonna relocate everything... also if youre gonna put heated seats in the back i would cut the molding under the back seats and get another heater or something smaller from another max or wutever you can find and run the wires to switches somewhere of your choice and run the power to them or splice the wiring from your already heated front seats...theres a million ways to do this so just be creative... good luck with it to

 

well that helps my mindset a bit lol. thanks...yeah am a bit nervous about running the car w the return line off. or for that matter running the car and allowing any type of fluid to drain.

 

It looks like a lot of people have done it that way. Maybe get someone to lend you a hand, so when you start the car they can make sure fluid isn't spraying out all over the place. You will be alright, good luck.

 

If it is corroded so much that it broke off, it may need replacement. Attaching it to the terminal is a good, temporary fix.

 

I plan on putting in rear heated seats from the I35, but that's not going to happen for awhile, I will definitely put up a thread detailing my endeavor whenever I get around to it.

 

recently acquired '99 Maxima GXE that came with one key (immobilizer) and found from dealer that it came with keyless entry. the 6+ key in ignition does not make any lights blink as it's supposed to. Where do I find the Keyless Remote Receiver (if that's what its called) to check it out. Is there a fuse for this? Can't find info in Chilton's or Hayne's manuals I have.
thanks for any help and thanks for allowing me to post this.

 

what r the best spark plugs 2 put in my 97 se with 187,xxx