Ok I'm having an issue with my door locks. Basically, when I lock my doors with my key chain remote or the lock on the armrest my drivers side and front passenger side door locks dont lock all the way. They lock about 3/4 of the way but from the outside the doors will still open and set off the alarm. I tried spraying some WD40 on the lock thinking it may just be stuck or something but that didnt help. Anyone else have this issue?

 

will code p0744 cause a car to fail smog


my 98 i30 gives off this code and sometimes it causes the mil to come on

would this make the car

 

If your knock sensor has a vacuum hose on it, it's not a knock sensor. Look in the how-to sticky/thread or search. There are threads with pictures, they will help you locate the knock sensor and will also give you ideas on how to remove/install it.

Literally typing in 'those plugs that go into coil injectors' in the search box won't help you, it will only yield results in which someone said 'those plugs that go into coil injectors', which I'm betting is few. Look around on the courtesyparts.com for the connector, the pictures will help you.

I'm not sure how comfortable you are reaching across a running engine and fiddling with electrical connectors, I'm not. When I had to test my coils/injectors I ran the car (to have a reference without anything unplugged) then stopped the car, unplugged something, started the car and if it was different sounding, etc then I knew where the problem was.

Finally, injectors and coils are two different things. You either have fuel injectors OR ignition coils. Don't waste your time and money that something is the problem (like the electrical harness you mentioned), only do it if you have proof. Test before you assume your problem is a loose harness. Try securing it with tape first, to be sure.

 

The card I was telling you about is a bunch of resistors. It is know for going bad. Basically when you have the fan on full there is no electrical resistance and the fan blows on full. As you move the fan speed down the resistance increases, etc.

 

i have a 98 i30

I found the complete 97 i30 repair manual online

( 1499 pages)

Is there ANY difference between a 97 and a 98?


thank you

 

need help!...i went ahead and bought a 90mm TB for my max. should i install it? have all the adapters and everything even have a 90mm q45 MAF and 3.5" intake pipe. will it work? do i have to s/c or turbo it to run right?

 

Do you have a link to the repair manual? I drive a 97 and would love this

 

Does anyone know if a rear hub assembly from a 4th Gen Maxima will fit a 4th Gen (97) Infiniti I30. The hub assembly is a 5 bolt pattern but I saw a pic of the Maxima being only a 4 bolt pattern. So was a little concerned.

 

I had to get a girl to install my knock sensor. I couldn't get my hands in there.

 

they should all be the same part. Sometimes vendors use a "generic picture" just to show you what the part might look like. Maxima has been 5 bolt for a looooong time.

 

IIRC digital dash and seat airbags were the differences. 99+ up got some extra emmission stuff.
There is a difference between cali spec and not cali spec for all years 95+ up.

 

I am having problem with my 95 SE with automatic and 185K miles. It has WR Dragon Intake on it.

Recently cleaned Throttle Body, Idle Air Control Valve. Replaced Knock Sensor. New plugs, Engine Coolant Temp Sensor because of the code. Cleaned MAF sensor.

After the cleaning, cold start has about 1200rpm. once warmed up, it drops to normal around 650~700rpm.

The problem now is the MAF sensor (code from the car shows MAF and ECTS mosto of the times). Wiring checked out fine. The car stalls a lot. Especially when the engine isn't hot enough. With running temp and at a traffic light, often it just dies. Sometimes, it dies during driving.

I read something about unplugging the MAF. It dies everytime, when I put the gear to drive, so I can't drive at all. Code comes out with front left O2 and MAF since it is unplugged.

If I plug in the MAF & clear the code for driving (if engine runs without quitting), the car often stutter and dies and code showing up with MAF and ECTS.

What should I check right now?

Thanks,

 

http://carpdf.net/1997-infiniti-130-...ice-manual.htm


here you go the 97 infiniti i30 shop manual

I had a g20 and the shop manual was so awesome. the actual thing i mean, it came with it.

this i30 no such luck.

you can find the owners manual online too pretty easy.

I have several chapters for the 98 version i found but not the whole thing like that.

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-I...Q5fAccessories


heres a 12$ knock sensor btw

seems like a lot of people are a bit out of the channel on those.

 

I am looking to buy my first car, and i have been looking for quite some time, i am just wondering if this car is worth the price for what it has.

I Dont know all that much about cars and their worth, but i love the look of this car, and the fact it has speakers and sub.

Is this car a legit price.. too much? iuno

http://cgi.ebay.ca/Nissan-Maxima_W0Q...item20b0f03f5b


Please help!

Also - if anyone has a car like this for sale if u could tell me about it i would appretiate it.

 

looks really sweet to me

thats gonna be a 5th gen though maybe post it over there

were all gonna be old school 4th gens here.

 

Ok I got a question. I got a 1995 Maxima GLE with about 205k would it be better to sell it or part

 

Crank Position Sensor?

 

vague

Need moar info before a suggestion can be made.

 

So I ordered a rear hub wheel assembly for my driver side. I figured why I have that off that I might as well finish the suspension.

I ordered new struts/shocks but I am keeping the original springs. The shocks are KYB GR-2's 334150, (1) - 334151, and (2) - 341202. I also got new 2 Lower Control Arm (Left and Right side) complete which includes bushings and ball joint. 2 Outer Tie Rod ends, 2 Inner Tie Rod Ends, and 2 Sway Bar Link

I am replacing one rear wheel hub assembly and wondering if I should just replace the other one also. The car has 165000 miles on it. To my knowledge the car has never had it's bearings replaced before.

Also, what dust boots/bellows go with these shocks.

I assume KYB SB108 Strut Boot for the rear and KYB SB104 Strut Boot for the front. What concerns me is the KYB SB104 review on Amazon.

This is concerning because I drive a 97 i30. So I am unsure if I should order these or not. Searching the forum gave me mixed ideas. Most of the posts are about lowered suspensions. When I just want to get back to stock.

Should I also just replace the Strut Mounts why I am at it?

 

does the car search for idle? like wander low to high? then start over. like 800-1000 800-1000 over and over?


it sounds like a bad maf sensor i dont understand why youre not replacing that?

let me get this all straight, you are looking at a bad maf sensor code, and your car is driving like it has a bad maf sensor and you want to ask what you should do next?

not to be rude to anyone Im actually just making sure i understand you.

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/TOKIC...item2eabd24527


hey isnt this a really sweet deal?

These are the stock shocks with tokico springs.

All I dont really know is how good tokico springs are, are they as good as a name brand spring maker? As far as I know they are top notch and this is a steal

 

i would replace Intake air temperature sensor. I kno the FSM says its only for diagnostic. But damnit with the maxi, make sure all yur sensors are workin and up to date.

Also check exahaust for any obstructions or bends in pipe that could impede flow. If u stalling during idle, then the IACV could be toast. Test it per fsm. I think u remove it, then turn key from off to on position and watch for the IACV to open and close repsectively. DONT START THE ENGINE THO.

 

Ok repostt!
I got a Red 1995 Nissan Maxima 205k
mechanically sound
interior is good
exterior paint is fading on hood but it is good shape
all is good stock everything.
auto trans
3.0 v6
Sell or Part Out

 

I have a 97 maxima GXE with 171xxx miles. Its in good shape and has never had a problem, im just ready to get something new. What would be a good price that I could get for it? Its a V6 auto 3.0, moon roof, alloy wheels, all power. Just looking for some advice on where to start, and I want opinions on what these are actually going for, not just KBB. thanks.

 

Why not keep it? If you're set on getting rid of it, 2k seems like a nice price.

All depends on where you live... In Houston i'd say 3k TOPS, but in Kansas I'd say around 4k....

Example... KBB on my car in Houston was 4.2k, but in Kansas was 5.4k...

 

Hey y'all,
I need new tires for my Max ('97 SE, stock wheels). My current set is all different sizes and models with treads as worn as *****. Having just put like eight hundred highway miles on them, I have determined that the car is louder than a space shuttle launch. So I'd like to prioritize quiet tires.

I do not autocross or race and I am a pretty mild driver around town, so I don't really care about, like, "performance" grip. I'd like my car to stay on the road in rain and snow on the same set of tires as it uses in summer. I'm usually away at school, so the car is only driven four to five thousand miles a year; thus, tread life isn't all that important. Also, I'd like my car to be much, much quieter than it is now.

Cheap and available locally (installed and balanced) is also clutch. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance. P.S. i want quiet tires please recommend.

 

Ahh that's what I meant, obivously - ignition coils. Thanks.

Well, the problem is that I think it's a very intermittent problem. VERY intermittent. So it's not like I'm dropping Cyl 1 every RPM.

Ah well - I'll try duct tape first and see if the light comes back on! Thanks!

 

kbb on my 98 i30 is 3000$ so um dont sell it here

 

im going to put two firestone hrs on my i30 this weekend.

they are the cheapest performance tire at firestone stores, and they are on sale.

so before the balancing and rip off they are 60 apeice.

however at full price I TOTALLY recomend the bridgestone potenza as the best deal for 90 apeice. Definitely feel those were the best tires i ever had for my g20.

you can get better tires, like michelin or whatever but they arent much better because its not possible to get much better those are a+ grade and are priced with tires that are like b- grade from the other manufacturers.

theres my tire review.

 

In mass, u cd get 2500 tops as street value. It has high mileage and is 1997.

THe funny thing is, On craiglist, i have seen ppl try to sell maximas of this ilk and mileage for 3500!! I wd never pay that much for a car over 150k mi.

I kno this girl that is selling a 1998 BMW 5-series Auto 300K miles for 3000 bucks. Thats ridiculous if u ask me. But if ppl buy it then its all good.







I wd sell. Part out takes too much time and effort. Someone is gonna have to remove parts and eventually u will have to get rid of the body somehow.

 

ya i put my i30 on cl for 3000$ and so many people responding i decided not to sell it

I think you can beat kbb with a maxima. This is because kbb says its worth less than a accord.

So anyone whos out tire kicking and actually test drives is going to see an accord is an inferior car in almost all ways, yet its more expensive? look up 97 accord and try to sell it for that. Even write accord in your ad.

its more ridiculous with my i30, its got literally power everything but its cheaper than a 98 civic? not thats retarded. but thats kbb most people dont even know what an infiniti is.

 

Awesome. Are they quiet?

 

I try to be as straightforward as possible, so here's what you may need to know if someone is able to help.

Car: 1995 Maxima, 160k

Recent maintenance: Flushed fuel system, replaced ALL coilpacks, ALL spark plugs (NGK6 Platinum), SeaFoamed the engine

Problem: Misfire on cylinder 1. Removed the coilpacks from harnesses one by one and pinpointed it at this particular spot.



Now, I removed the coilpack and kept the harness attached to it to check for spark. It appears I'm getting ignition, but I'm still getting a misfire/knock on cylinder 1. I know my alternator is running borderline when I checked it and it is going to get repaired soon. My fuel injectors are running strong and solid so I doubt its those. Can anyone pinpoint what may be causing this problem on cylinder 1?? Any input, solutions, or the like would be much appreciated.

 

[quote=j-dawg;7565236]Hey y'all,
I need new tires for my Max ('97 SE, stock wheels). My current set is all different sizes and models with treads as worn as *****. Having just put like eight hundred highway miles on them, I have determined that the car is louder than a space shuttle launch. So I'd like to prioritize quiet tires.

I do not autocross or race and I am a pretty mild driver around town, so I don't really care about, like, "performance" grip. I'd like my car to stay on the road in rain and snow on the same set of tires as it uses in summer. I'm usually away at school, so the car is only driven four to five thousand miles a year; thus, tread life isn't all that important. Also, I'd like my car to be much, much quieter than it is now.



Check Discount Tire they have good tires and cheap prices too.

 

I have tried searching do this question but so far I have not found the answer. I have a 96 maxima automatic with charcoal interior. I want to buy this 95 max manual with beige interior. Will the seats ( rear as well) and carpet fit directly?

 

I'm sorry my question was . Will the interior from the 96 fit directly into the 95?

 

they will fit

 

Just to be sure: as long as they both have the same features the dash and all will convert as well?

 

hey hi everybody i'm new in this forum and i have a 1997 maxima se with manual transmission and i was wondering if every body part of a 1995-1996 fit my car... and i was also wondering if there is a way that the remote can open the sunroof or make the windows go up... thanks!

ps. i have a trunk issue too i press the button on my remote i hear the thing click but the trunk doest open same thing when i press the button on the door inside the car... but when i do it with the key it works...