Yeah, thats super strange. Try replacing plugs. Even tho i dont think thats yur problem. Hit the JY and get a used plug. What year car u have. 99 coils are notoriously bad.

 

Sounds to me like the auto part store is giving you the wrong part.

 

Yeah, forgot to mention, it's a 99 Maxima. I've replaced a couple of coils on it already, some time ago. If I had the $$ to throw away, I'd just go to a different parts store (NAPA) or somewhere and get another coil. I may trade the coil in and get a new one AGAIN. I've seen my share of "new" parts that are bad off of the shelf. One of the parts guys suggested a throttle pos. sensor. I asked "Why does it follow the 'new' coil?", and got "UH.... I don't know." I know they aren't mechanics, but one of the parts guys (different one) also told me it was because the new coil was firing hotter, causing the misfire. WTF???

 

I have a p0400 code and have replaced all egr components. Does anyone have any ideas?

 

My BOSE head unit is supposed to be lit up with the green letters but some times it is and sometimes it is not its very random. And its not the interior dimmer switch or anything. The buttons that light up when you turn on the headlight work but the things that says like fm channel and cd works when it wants to. Any help?

 

Yes. The top of the strut shaft will have a hex opening where you insert a allen key and then turn the nut with a wrench.

 

Is it possible/practical to clean O2 sensors instead of replacing them? (Front heated, not rear)

 

I have 2 problems that im looking for possible causes and some help with. 1st to start my car i really have to mash down the clutch to get it to turn over and even then i have to do it 2 or three times and really stomp on it, any ideas what it could be? 2nd while im driving sometimes my car will just cut out and in extreme cases when it does this i can put the gas on the floor and i get no response for a few seconds then my car catches and reacts. I have a 96 gle any suggestions will be helpful.

 

will a 17x8 +38 wheel fit front and back on my 96 without any tire sticking out front or back

 

I've been looking all over the forums but couldn't find anything on how to repair this:

http://imgur.com/WpTfQ.jpg
http://imgur.com/txfMr.jpg
http://imgur.com/RZBjJ.jpg

My uncle gave me this '99 Maxima GLE back in April and I've been wondering how to fix this ever since. What products are there to repair this chipped off paint?

 

^^ that's not paint, man. it's your clear coat peeling off. you could try to clean and wax it first.

p.s. might try to wet-sand around it with very fine grit >=2000 to stop it from spreading.

 

You probably have a bad connection inside of the head unit. It's possible to repair, but would just be easier to replace. Read up on replacing the Bose head unit with an aftermarket one in the Audio and Electronics sub forum. Or if you want, track down a repair shop, but it will probably cost more than you want to spend on such an old piece of equipment.

 

Probably. I have 17x7 38mm and they sit in a bit. You could measure how far your wheels sit in now, then use a online calculator to figure out where the new ones would sit. Search the forum for the specs on your stock wheels.

 

300 dollar paint job from maaco

 

we did it on my boy camry and it worked out for a lil bit. jus wipe it off with a damp cloth.

U may still need to replace.

 

EGR is always PITA. Could be a clogged line or corroded electronics. U may have to take to dealer to have them pressure test.

 

There's a write up in the how-to section on how to repair that. I would suggest (if money allows) just to get a new one.

It's a good idea to always diagnose a problem before you spend money on it. Coils are expensive, especially if you have to buy more than one. Check that you're getting a spark signal to the coil pack, if so then it's a coil or plug problem, if not then you just replaced a good coil. If you're going to replace the plugs just to see, you should buy new ones, the coppers will cost you like $5 tops. There should be a section in the FSM about spark signal testing, also I've read a couple threads about how to check for spark signals.

Good luck.

ps. Now that I think about it, since it's following the coil around, in all likeliness it is a coil issue. Try to exchange or get your money back from wherever you got it from.

 

I've exchanged the first new coil pack, thinking I got a bad one from AutoZone, the second "new" one, also causes a misfire on what ever cylinder it is in. I asked about refunds, they only exchange, think I'll exchange for #3 and try another one. Won't be the first time I've seen a bad part off the shelf. I'll try to find the post about the spark signal and try that too. Thanks for the help, and any future input too.

 

Ya you will have to get a refund.

The part itself seems to be not compatible. You need to exchange with either a different one or get your money back and buy one at napa.

 

What years can you find a 4thg en in red? I have only seen 2 in red and I know '97 isn't a year cause the color isn't in my dealer ad.

 

99 SE-L, I think.

 

Here is my long question. I did a search although I found nobody as dumb as I that grounded the key cylinder tamper switch

I have a 1997 Maxima ~290K miles. I have an issue with starting, more specifically random starting. The starter is new but I am not ruling out a defective one. Battery is new and charged.

Problem: Turn key, no reaction from starter such as clicks or anything else. On the dash the Clock and other dash lights dim but the overhead light does not. I can SOMETIMES move the tilt wheel up and down or turn the wheel and it will start. I am leaning to something in the area of the steering column specifically the ignition switch and anti-theft system. Last night I went to test the key cylinder tamper switch using a copy of a 96 Altima service manual I had. I assume the anti-theft system was similar if not the same. As I went to test the switch at the connector that plugs into the top of the ignition switch (I am guessing the key cylinder tamper switch) nearest the key entry I accidentally grounded it. The security light and system now does not work at all not does the clock. When I turn the key everything else comes on but the clock, I can even hear the fuel pump. The remote activation for the security does not work either. So no security, no clock (which I am guessing is tied into the same system as the security at some point) and no start. I saw that all the security goes into the smart entrance control unit (silver box to the right of the steering column?). Did I fry that? or lock it out? I went though all the start and anti-theft fuses but tonight I am going to go though ALL the fuses. Any suggestions on where to start for my original problem and now my new one? Also when the car wouldn't start before I grounded out the key cylinder tamper switch it would still start in push starting (5spd)

Thank you for any help you can provide.
David

 

I recently cleaned out the EGR Guide Tube, EGR Valve, Upper and Lower Intake Manifolds, Throttle Body, IACV and replaced all related gaskets; mailed fuel injectors for sonic cleaning to Witch Hunter(reinstalled w/ new rings), replaced BPT Valve assembly...

After putting everything back together, the car runs with a high idle (1500RPM), droplets are expelled from the tailpipe, and after 3-4 minutes white smoke is emitted near the EGR/BPT area (possibly just under the Upper Intake Manifold).

I may have improperly swapped a vacuum line or two. Going to reconnect the vacuum line just right of the metal tube in the center of the pic. Would greatly appreciate clear pictures of a properly installed Vacuum piping system. Diagram of vacuum piping and photo of current status:

Edit: Is it possible that I need to bleed my coolant system / air pockets?

 

Ok I just climbed under my car and checked the rear O2 sensor. And I only saw the one that is in the back of the Catalytic Converter. But, I didnt see the one that is 22690N. So is there just one?

 

Hey guys I'm stumped. My car has been pumping water out into the reservoir and I can't figure out why. It's not running hot and the water that goes into the reservoir isn't hot either. It's like it's pumping air into the cooling system.

I thought there was a hole in the exhaust side of the manifold, so I put to bars stop leak in it. It seemed to work fine, it stopped the water loss for a while. Then, it blew out the radiator at the top. I put a new one in, got the air out of the system and it ran fine for a couple of days. Now, it won't start.

I'm completely out of ideas of what it could be......Any thoughts??

 

If you opened up the cooling system, you probably should bleed it. There seems to be something disconnected just under your throttle body.

You can readjust your idle by turning the car off, removing the two connectors for the TPS (throttle body area), starting the car and adjusting the screw on the IACV. Keep an eye on your tachometer, you'll probably want it set around 700 RPM. Turn the car off and reconnect the TPS connectors.

By water do you mean coolant? It is normal for coolant to go into the reservoir, that's part of how the system works. As the coolant warms up it expands. Without the reservoir there, the system would explode. With the car cold, check to see that you have sufficient coolant. On the reservoir, there should be a min and max marking. Make sure the system is filled and bled properly.

Do you mean there was a hole in the cooling system by the exhaust manifold? It is difficult to imagine what the cooling has to do with your car not starting.

Good luck.

 

Ok, is hot water and steam going into your coolant resevoir?

What youve got is a blown head gasket, but not the major one yet.

However it can cause spark plug fouling which will prevent starting.

You have the kind of gasket leak that those pour in fix a gasket things can fix.

ok water leaking out of the exhaust hmmmm...

I have a feeling that is just the hole from the water pump.

It could be.... leaking from the head gasket though. No picture on that

theres definitely nothing where water touches exhaust.

Sounds like head gasket leak in the area called the water closet. I dont personally trust you to fix it actually, what I would do is replace teh spark plugs and if it starts get a mechanic to replace the head gasket.

Feel reasonably confident you didnt ruin the heads and you just need the gasket replaced.

Hopefully you didnt cover up the weep hole of the water pump. Id personally stop everything and get it to a mechanic because you are close to ruining it regardless.

 

no offense but your descriptive language needs work.

I do believe what you have IS coolant overheating. Like its boiling into the overflow and going out.

Youve got a blown headgasket.

Check to see if the water is in the oil now. Is the oil muddy? Youre either before or after the point where you destroyed the heads . Every blow over of coolant your making it worse.

 

If you did actually cover up the weep hole of your water pump what would happen is the pressure would build until it blew up at the radiator like you said.

and are you putting coolant in or water?

So just having water makes it boil quicker and rots out the water pump, making it leak eventually.

It just reminds me of a car i destroyed thinking it wouldnt progress quickly but it did.

Just watch out man youre a very dangerous mechanic at this point in your education and youre about to ruin a great car.

 

i have used this forum multiple times and have had alot of good advice from you guys and gals. but this one has me stumped.
i read the info on when it will turn over just fine but will not start that it should be either one of the crankshaft sensors or the cam pos sensor so i went and bought all three and replaced($200). no luck thou. i pulled the fuel line from the outside of the fuel filter on the firewall and turned the key on and fuel poured out so i dont think it is a fuel pump issue. i pulled a couple plugs and they are dry so it seems to be a fuel issue like the injectors are not sending fuel into the cylinder. i think its something controlling the fuel somewhere. any ideas ???? 96 ,v-6 , auto, 91,000 miles

 

buy a fuel pressure guage. it can be working just not well enough.

Use starting fluid, does it start with starting fluid?

If so then youre right its a fuel thing.

what are the codes?

theres something called a fuel pressure regulator too.

 

TPS connector doesn't "click" into place when reconnecting. comes loose while driving, causing many problems. I pushed the release tab down to release it (during EGR tube job) but when reconnecting it, the release tab doesn't "spring back" into "locked" position like the other similar connectors do. is there some trick here that I'm missing??

UPDATE: problem fixed. for those that run into this, you have to put the connector on firmly, then take a thin screwdriver and wedge it behind the release tab - this manually pushes the plastic holdback out of the way so the release tab can spring back into "locked in" position.

 

Hello,
I was following instructions on a thread related to reading ABS trouble codes and it said to ground terminal 4 of the data link connector, well needless to say, I didn't see the ABS light flash any codes so I (foolishly?) moved on to ground the other PINS in the data link connector. Well... the car won't crank now. All lights appear to work, pulled the negative battery cable off for a few hours still nothing. Did I do something horrible?

Thanks very much - John

 

It turned out to be a blown Engine Control fuse so thanks for listening to me.

 

I purchased my car a week ago tomorrow and i have a couple questions. I took it in because the filler neck had been rusted out and i couldn't put gas in. Well when they replaced that they noticed my cv boots were completely torn on the driver and passengers front side so i had to also replace the boots and the actual joints. Altogether it ended up costing me 756$ to replace all of that. What i wanna know is if thats a resonable price or if i got ripped. And my last question is the guy i bought it from put a CAI intake on it and Injen style and the guy at the garage told me that all it does is cut power. Is that true and if so how do i remove it.

 

I have a 97 Nissan Maxima GXE. My engine is misfiring when I sustain a speed of about 28-35 mph. I was hoping the problem would be fixed since I have recently undertaken the following procedures:

Cleaned MAF Sensor, Upper and Lower Intake Manifolds, IACV, Throttle Body, replaced all related gaskets, Ultrasonic Fuel Injector Service (Witch Hunter), Replaced Spark Plugs (NGK Plats), running premium fuel, new air filter...

I have read that the issue is potentially either an ignition coil or... IAT Sensor??
No codes are coming up, no lights etc... if an ignition coil is on the verge of failing, but not completely failed, how am I to verify if / which ignition coil is malfunctioning? I've also read that some people cover part of the ignition coil in electrical tape...?

 

Hey everyone
have a question on my daughters 96 max. she drove it to work and when she went to leave it wouldnt start. i got it home and got on here and found that the crank,cam sensors would keep it from cranking. so i replaced both crank sensors and the cam pos sensor. still turns over fine but doesnt start. when i turn the key to on the fuel pump starts then stops, i have ran a wire to the fuel pump and it runs fine, i hooked a multimeter up to the coils and fuel injectors and no power to them. it seems that something that controls all of them is not letting power to them. i hope its not the ecu but sounds like it to me. could bad wiring to one of the sensors cause all 3 to not have power? any help would be great thanks chuck

 

Hello everyone,

I am obviously new here and I am having some issues with my girlfriend's sister's car. It needs to pass emissions and the check engine light is on, so we got the codes read. P0403 and P0405, I've searched and it comes up with EGR insufficient flow, etc. I found the thread that details how to remove everything and clean it, but I have another question. Since the issue seems to be carbon buildup would running seafoam through the motor be a viable option or worth a shot? Would I have to wait for the motor to get up to operating temperature to go into "open loop" so the EGR valve is open? (not sure if that is the correct terms)

Thanks for any help,
Paul

Edit to add: It was also having an intermittent no start problem and I replaced the starter, hasn't happened since. Probably unrelated, but worth throwing out there. It is a '96 as well.

 

Update...
I exchanged coil pk. #2, for new #3, still have the misfire. Changed the platinum plugs for copper NGK's and the misfire is gone. It still seems like it misses on occasion, but not sure, seems like I feel it misfire one or two times and then nothing for awhile.

 

Passenger door lock issue:

I have a '99 Maxima. The passenger door lock seemed like it was sticking and would only close half way so I would have to manually push it the rest of the way. Now there is a more serious issue that it wont lock at all. When I push the door lock on the drivers side to lock all the doors the passenger door lock will make a buzzing sound like its trying to lock but then it wont. Also having issues opening that door. Have to pull on the handle really hard to actually get it to open. I took the door panel off and checked all the rod linkages and they all appear to be fine. I'm thinking it may be the Door lock solenoid. Does this sound right? If so does anyone know how to remove and replace it?