You are correct my friend.

 

This is the first time my car has done this.

When I went to crank it yesterday morning, it idled up, and I walked off to let it warm up. Came back about 5 min later, went to open the door, and the car shut off.

Got back in, tried to crank, gave me a hard time, but finally cranked after 3 seconds.

Less than a minute later, it cut off again. So I cranked it again; took about a second. Then it idled up fine afterwards.

It didn't do it again for the day, but it's starting to take a longer key turn to crank the car. Mostly after sitting for a time.

Any clues?

 

I have a 98 Maxima SE, and I'm about to purchase an aftermarket steering wheel with the hub included. I saw a step by step how to online but the thing was on a honda civic which probably isnt anything like the steps for a Maxima. How do i go about doing this without screwing everything up for my steering. Thanks.

 

Noob here (can't wait for 15 replies)... I have a 98 Max with 124K miles, auto, no mods, no problems ever until 3 weeks ago...

One morning before work the car wouldn't start, it turned over, battery was good, but would not start. Figured I flooded it since I could smell gas out the tail pipe. (It had been a bit fussy starting before all of this, but always started) It wouldn't start the next day either, changed the plugs. No joy. (the original Nissan plugs looked pretty good actually)

Had a Camshaft Sensor pos code (0101), along with a knock sensor and 02 sensor, I changed the CMPS...The car started, seemed to run good!! On my way into work, it died at almost every stop light.

No codes... A mechanic suggested the crankshaft pos sensor or a throttle position sensor. Ordered both crankshaft pos sensors (left and right) and a TPS from Rock Auto... replaced all 3 - testing the car after each sensor replacement. (Aligned the TPS to 500 ohms when hot). I then changed the fuel pump (new) and fuel filter. The MAF is spotless as is the throttle body.

I cleaned all of the grounds I can find (sand paper, wire brush and alcohol), I added the transmission ground some, from maxima.org, have suggested might help (4ga wire). I also cleaned the battery posts.

Since I changed the CMPS and CKPS; The car will start without touching the gas pedal, it will run good (slight vibration at idle - almost imperceptible, but not there before these problems started), revs good, I can drive around with decent power (not quite normal tho), then it just dies - either while idling or while driving - no real pattern other than it takes 20 - 30 minutes before it starts acting up. When I restart the car, I can't get it to rev above 2500 RPM. Very rough when I try to rev it, acts like it's starving for gas. Leave the car sit for 30+ minutes... it starts, runs good, but again after 20-30 minutes of idling or driving the symptoms reappear.

I'm getting a CMPS and CKPS code again (0101 and 0905 - both sensors are new - the connectors are clean).

This car has no rust, burns no oil, did run great (30+mpg on the highway) and was my daily ride... I would hate to retire it, any help would be most appreciated.

Thanks,

dersh.

PS... I live in South Dakota and have been riding my '83 Goldwing to work, I'm not sure I'll get away with that too much longer, the weather has been mild... so far.

 

Try swapping your MAF with a known working one from a junkyard. If it still does the same thing, replace your ECTS (Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor).

 

Hey i just bought a 96, i dont know much about maximas yet and was wondering if anyone knew about intake manifolds for the car, how much they cost and if they are even worth it. Also whats the most effective exhaust system for the car, thanks

 

Does anyone know how to program the homelink for a rolling code garage door? I tried the standard procedure but it doesnt work.

Also what causes in intermit hard start? At time when cranking the engine it sounds like a weak battery. Other times it sounds just fine. The car always starts and runs ok. The battery is only a month old and watching a voltage drop when starting it only dips down to 11 volts. I was going to try to clean all the grounds but Im not sure why it only does it intermitly. Ive also heard that the ngk platinum plugs may help with easier starting and running smoother. Is there any truth with that? It currently has some bosch double platiums that are in there, and are about 25-30k old but dont look to bad.

 

actually you shouldn't change the exhaust for the car unless you change the intake.
usually, cars come from the factory with the parts they need to create enough intake and back pressure (exhaust). unless you change the way it inhales, you shouldn't change the way it exhales.
so make sure you pair them up correctly. don't just mix and match.
vacuum leak? before the throttle plate?

 

I have owned a 95 GLE for about 8 years. The car has 232k and has been leaking a lot of oil recently from the valve covers. I'm new in town and don't have a regular mechanic, but I called and got some quotes to have a used engine installed. Cheapest I found was a little over $1600 for an 82k engine. Comes with an 18 month warranty and some of my friends at work recommended the mechanic. What'd ya'll think, go for it or leave it alone?

 

Sure you can't do the job yourself? Have the skills/time? With $50 worth of tools, you can do it yourself in one days time. It's not that bad at all to do.

IMO, I wouldn't pay $1600 for a newer motor to be put into a car that's worth ~2k at the most.

 

Wizard - I guess I'll have to have a go at it next time. Took the car in and told him to go ahead. I guess he's got a family to feed as well. I really don't have access to a garage, I have a few tools but without a good workspace it's a moot point. Thanks for your input. I can see that the car isn't worth a lot to anyone else, but it means a lot to me and I can't think of anything else I'd rather drive. Thanks again.

 

Thanks. There is a leak somewhere from what I here. I need to find out what this connector connects too?

 

anyone know what this plug goes into to?

 

Since I am new here, I have read many threads on the starting issues. I have added ground wires, cleaned the CPS and CKS, changed the knock sensor, and am still having intermittent starting problems. I just bought a 96 I30, with 89K miles. It starts fine sometimes, but other times I need to press on the gas pedal. It will then start. Seems to me maybe a fuel problem?? Filter, Pump, Regulator?? Any ideas? Sometimes when it starts the idle goes high and low for a few seconds or more. Runs fine after that. Just trying see where I should go next??

 

96 I30, automatic transmission. When the car is cold the 1st to 2nd shift is very hard. Smooths out once warmed up. Is that just normal for these transmissions or is there an adjustment?

 

I've been searching for an answer to my no start problem also. I've read just about everything but recently learned about the engine coolant temp sensor telling the computer the wrong temperature therefore flooding the the spark plugs causing no starting. 2 suggestions if you not done already since your post, 1) check your eng. coolant temp sensor see if it's faulty at the same time inspect the connector for corrosion and rust. Good luck locating a new connector if that's your case. In San Diego only wiring harnesses available $50 t0 $150. 2) Press the gas pedal to the floor when the plugs are being flooded, this tells the computer to clear the flood out of the engine. I don't remember who said it but I believe it was page 1, 2 or 3 of this sticky. Good luck

 

In case you have postponed the appointment I really think you should either reconsider doing it yourself or negotiate the cost.
Case and point; I'm a DIY'er because of the economy but also my 96 Max is important to me too. I did my Valve cover replacement myself 2 years ago and it actually taught me a lot about the car and you don't need much space. One day to get to the Valve Cover, the next morning putting everything back in place. This being done without rushing being careful checking, rechecking learning and running back and forth to the auto parts store. Now takes me 3 hours tops without rushing and the tools purchased I can use for other cost saving repairs. Up to you though, I wouldn't pay $1600 unless he threw in a tranny or an engine with it. Good luck

 

I wasn't sure if the answer has been posted but I have the same plug and searched for at least 4 hours for what it is and what it connects to. I have no idea and no one else seems to know either. If I find out I'll let you know and upload a pic with it. Hope you do the same for me.

 

If you have to press the gas to start the car up from a cold start then replace your Fuel Pressure Regulator. As for the idling, when you start from cold, you should be at 1500RPM and then it works itself back down to 750RPM at normal operating temperature. If it goes past 1500 at startup, you will need to re-adjust your idle.

 

Yes, this is normal for automatics.

 

http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...rol-valve.html

http://lmgtfy.com/?q=evap+canister+95+maxima <-lol

 

I was wondering if that was normal as I never owned an automatic that shifted so hard.

 

I also get a P0136 code. I get it maybe once every one or two tanks of gas. Could lower octane fuel cause this or is it a pretty sure bet the O2 sensor is bad?

 

hi I've read a few threads about what spark plugs to use and most of the opinions are scattered. i have a 96 and i just put Bosch +4's in it but now that i put them when the car is cold i takes a good amount of time to start and i have a little stutter during take off and in the middle of acceleration all this started after putting these plugs in. now my question is do you guys recommend just swapping them out for ngk platinums?

 

Yes. These cars run the best on NGK's. Platinum's are the best, but NGK coppers are just as good too (just got change them more often than plats)

 

ok thanks alot for the quick response platinum are pretty cheap right now 3 bucks a piece

 

Where are you getting OEM NGK plats for $3?? They're typically $6-$7 each....

 

at pep-boys unless there different then getting them from Nissan

 

Be careful. Make sure they're the correct NGK's (same part # as OEM), don't trust the monkey behind the counter.

 

will do. do you know the part number by any chance? so i can make sure.

 

Platinum OEM Replacement: NGK #PFR5G-11

Gap should be 0.044.

I misspoke before. These are about $12 each... People state they're about $18 each from Pep Boys..





Coppers:

Gap is .044"

BKR5E-11 is the Part # for the Coppers

5 is the heat range (stock = 5), 11 is the gap in mm.

 

http://c2c.activant.com/ctoc/index.j...BFVFc6AFQAVz0A

those are the ones pep boys shows me and there 2.99

 

Those are the coppers I was telling you about...

 

weird cause it says platinum

Plug Type platinum

 

Part number's don't lie. Trust the part number, not the description.

 

oh ok i see the platinum ones are 9.99. that should be false advertising guess im getting coppers for now thanks alot for the help

 

No problem. Just be sure to check and set the gap, as I don't think they come pre-gapped already to 0.044.

 

i'll make sure to do that thanks

 

I had Platinum NGK's in my 96 Max only 2 months old. A friend told me to have it towed this auto shop he goes to. I trusted his advice but not anymore. My car wasn't starting and figure out why. My car sat in a parking lot across the street from the shop for 3 hours. I had another friend take me to run a few errands and drove past the shop a few times without stopping just to see if it was almost done. I called 20 minutes after the last time we drove by and the guy said "it's ready long time ago". I was stunned and skeptical but he said he got it to start no problem! He said I needed new spark plugs and now she starts. $96 he charged me I was amazed and pissed at the same time. He told me I should get my coolant temp sensor replaced, what an a**hole.
I drove the car short trips to store twice a week for 3 weeks back to no start and 30 warranty expired, ain't that a blip. I checked my plugs last week and found the plugs he replaced my Plat NGK's with are 2 different brands and never heard of neither one before. I'll pull em tomorrow and upload a pic see if u guys can tell if you've ever seen them before.
This only happened to me once and never again the guy new my temp sensor was bad giving wrong temp and causing the computer to flood the plugs with gas. He put in dry plugs and of course the car started right up. To cover himself he mentioned to check the coolant temp sensor

 

Hello everyone, I'm new here. I came here because I need some guidance/advice on what to do about an issue I have with my 1996 Nissan Maxima.

My emissions inspection is due for the end of Novemeber. My car will not pass because I have the check engine light on. I took it to a local shop to do a scan and it said I need to replace my knock sensor. The labor and parts come out to $632.47 which seems a little high but realistic. What I question though, is that they're saying I need to replace my spark plugs and they're also charging me for a "fuel system service" and "fuel induction kit". Is all that really necessary?

If you someone could please help me out here by telling whether this is really what it usually costs or if i'm getting shafted. Thanks guys.