NOOBIES: "I AM NEW HERE BUT HAVE A QUESTION" thread. Read FIRST post BEFORE posting!
07-20-2010 | 11:33 AM
#6081
Hi, I'm not new here but I hardly ever post. I just look for stuff and read up usually. I did search around threads and posts about my problem and couldn't find the direct answer... just bits and pieces that look like they may be my answer... anyways here's the story...
I was driving over to a buddy's house and my MAF was acting up like it had been the last couple days here (the CEL was on) and there (well I'm saying its my MAF because I had the same symptons before and swapped out with a used MAF but I guess it either A. got dirty again or B. was dying) so then on my way over the MAF starts acting up and I can't rev past 2800-2900 rpm and I'm just cruising as slow as possible (I'm in an automatic) just so I can at least make it to my friends house and park it there till I could fix it... So as I'm exiting the freeway and I slow down, the revs drop and my car stalls and shuts off. I try to turn it on again and the start is really rough and kept choking so i gave it a bit of gas to get the revs up and the car starts and then i hear a loud *POP* in the engine bay and white smoke/steam comes out from under the hood.. and I'm like oh god... but the car continues to run (my friend was another half mile) and made this weird grating type noise like when a diesel truck is at a stop, so I kept driving it and then more white smoke came out and I took a look at the temp gauge and the car was overheating like mad so I stopped at my friends place to park. On my way there at a stop light it started dropping revs again and i power braked it to keep the revs up or else the car was gonna stall again.
After I park it, I let it cool off for several hours and went out to check it. There was coolant all over the place when I lifted the hood, the reservoir was empty, and the radiator looked like it was probably empty. I checked the oil dipstick and it looked muddy and dark and it looked like it was the "chocolate milk" sign. I went on .org to check if it was the head gasket but I saw that there were other answers to the problem like the water pump (which hadn't been replaced in the last 100K miles or so I'm thinking since I got it as a hand-me-down), ects, t-stat, and things like that. (which I don't think have been replaced in a long time either) I tried to make it home in it which was like 6 miles.. and the car overheats once after about 3 miles on the freeway and I exit... then I hit a stop light, it stalls again, i re-start it and park somewhere to cool it off in which i waited an hour and half and then proceeded to make it home in one piece. I didn't notice any leaks because of where I park its already dark with oil, coolant, and water leaks but I checked today to see if there was and i didn't see anything. I'm sorry I'm kind of a noob about these things thats why I'm always on here to try to learn and do DIYs.
A lot of the basic symptoms point to the head gasket... what do you guys think? How can I make sure of this? Is it worth the fix? I just got a bunch of stuff in the car fixed in the last year like new radiator, rebuilt trans, new starter, tune-up, new tires, brakes, etc. I've probably spent well over what the car is worth and it looks like engine swap might be the best idea in this scenario... tell me what you guys think. please help!!
My car is a 97 Maxima with 272k miles and was running strong till this happened. If costs look like its gonna be too much, I might just sell it as is...
my poor baby.
I was driving over to a buddy's house and my MAF was acting up like it had been the last couple days here (the CEL was on) and there (well I'm saying its my MAF because I had the same symptons before and swapped out with a used MAF but I guess it either A. got dirty again or B. was dying) so then on my way over the MAF starts acting up and I can't rev past 2800-2900 rpm and I'm just cruising as slow as possible (I'm in an automatic) just so I can at least make it to my friends house and park it there till I could fix it... So as I'm exiting the freeway and I slow down, the revs drop and my car stalls and shuts off. I try to turn it on again and the start is really rough and kept choking so i gave it a bit of gas to get the revs up and the car starts and then i hear a loud *POP* in the engine bay and white smoke/steam comes out from under the hood.. and I'm like oh god... but the car continues to run (my friend was another half mile) and made this weird grating type noise like when a diesel truck is at a stop, so I kept driving it and then more white smoke came out and I took a look at the temp gauge and the car was overheating like mad so I stopped at my friends place to park. On my way there at a stop light it started dropping revs again and i power braked it to keep the revs up or else the car was gonna stall again.
After I park it, I let it cool off for several hours and went out to check it. There was coolant all over the place when I lifted the hood, the reservoir was empty, and the radiator looked like it was probably empty. I checked the oil dipstick and it looked muddy and dark and it looked like it was the "chocolate milk" sign. I went on .org to check if it was the head gasket but I saw that there were other answers to the problem like the water pump (which hadn't been replaced in the last 100K miles or so I'm thinking since I got it as a hand-me-down), ects, t-stat, and things like that. (which I don't think have been replaced in a long time either) I tried to make it home in it which was like 6 miles.. and the car overheats once after about 3 miles on the freeway and I exit... then I hit a stop light, it stalls again, i re-start it and park somewhere to cool it off in which i waited an hour and half and then proceeded to make it home in one piece. I didn't notice any leaks because of where I park its already dark with oil, coolant, and water leaks but I checked today to see if there was and i didn't see anything. I'm sorry I'm kind of a noob about these things thats why I'm always on here to try to learn and do DIYs.
A lot of the basic symptoms point to the head gasket... what do you guys think? How can I make sure of this? Is it worth the fix? I just got a bunch of stuff in the car fixed in the last year like new radiator, rebuilt trans, new starter, tune-up, new tires, brakes, etc. I've probably spent well over what the car is worth and it looks like engine swap might be the best idea in this scenario... tell me what you guys think. please help!!
My car is a 97 Maxima with 272k miles and was running strong till this happened. If costs look like its gonna be too much, I might just sell it as is...
my poor baby.If it quacks like a duck, and looks like a duck....
07-20-2010 | 12:11 PM
#6082
Thank you for your reply. The noise is only while moving and is speed dependent. I did recently inspect the brakes, etc (that's how I found the angular worn pads). I cannot recall however if the noise was there before or after. I will double check it.
As for the caliper guide pins, they moved ok. There wasn't much grease on them and they were pretty rusted so I re-greased them and put it back together. Will the pads begin to wear evenly now? or will they wear out prematurely because of the angled wear? If I do have to replace them early, is it best to do them in pairs or fours or just the one? The other pads have probably about half their life in them still.
Thanks a bunch.
As for the caliper guide pins, they moved ok. There wasn't much grease on them and they were pretty rusted so I re-greased them and put it back together. Will the pads begin to wear evenly now? or will they wear out prematurely because of the angled wear? If I do have to replace them early, is it best to do them in pairs or fours or just the one? The other pads have probably about half their life in them still.
Thanks a bunch.
A different tire size will affect your indicated speed, it could very well be.
07-20-2010 | 12:52 PM
#6083
Member
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 220
From: Mesa, AZ
Ok, my front passenger door will not open. I believe its my actuator that's broken. Pulling the handle on the inside and the outside do not open the door. Does anyone know how to get the door open? I'm unable to remove the door panel while the door is stuck closed. I was able to pry the top part out a few inches to look down through the window slot and I can see the rod moving when I pull the handle so I believe the rods are still connected its just the latch that is broken.
07-21-2010 | 11:10 PM
#6084
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 5
From: Williamston, SC
I'm new to this thread thing but I DO have a legitimate question
Where can I buy clear blinker lenses. I drive a '96 and I have looked on every stinking website to find them and I have no idea where to look. I joined this forum just to see if you guys would know.
Last edited by hykenfreak; 07-21-2010 at 11:12 PM.
07-22-2010 | 08:58 AM
#6085
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 3
Broke O2 (Oxygen) Sensor Mount off Cat pipe
Tore the mount bung (what ever it is called) off the cat pipe. Just below the exhaust manifold on the sensor closest to the firewall. Clean break, any ideas on fixing it? Could it be welded back on, or am I shopping for a new Cat?
98 Maxima SE, M/T, 192K miles
98 Maxima SE, M/T, 192K miles
07-22-2010 | 09:32 AM
#6086
Aren't they all over ebay? I know the black bumper lights are, so I imagine the clear ones are too. Type in "96 Maxima bumper light" for your search term on ebay.
07-22-2010 | 09:35 AM
#6087
It can be welded back on, or a new bung can be welded on. No need for a new expensive cat.
07-22-2010 | 01:15 PM
#6088
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 6
car is stalling again
when i come to a stop, the rpm will drop to around 300 and either die or bounce back up to 800. the car runs weak for a lil after this happens. also, it doesn't happen all the time, made a good few drives to work with no problems and other times it stalls 1-3 times in a 30 min trip. the car normally starts back up fine but it did have trouble starting after the stall this morning, i had to give it some gas while starting it. i just replaced the knock sensor which seemed to rid the car of any problems but a few days later this started happening. gonna change the fuel filter to see if it helps at all.
also, the car only has 66k on it so it sat for a while. i also added fuel system cleaner with a full tank of gas, the same gas is currently in the car at 1/4 tank.
when i come to a stop, the rpm will drop to around 300 and either die or bounce back up to 800. the car runs weak for a lil after this happens. also, it doesn't happen all the time, made a good few drives to work with no problems and other times it stalls 1-3 times in a 30 min trip. the car normally starts back up fine but it did have trouble starting after the stall this morning, i had to give it some gas while starting it. i just replaced the knock sensor which seemed to rid the car of any problems but a few days later this started happening. gonna change the fuel filter to see if it helps at all.
also, the car only has 66k on it so it sat for a while. i also added fuel system cleaner with a full tank of gas, the same gas is currently in the car at 1/4 tank.
Last edited by strik9; 07-22-2010 at 01:41 PM.
07-22-2010 | 05:29 PM
#6089
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 3
Got the pipe out... Whew that was fun, the directions I found in the FAQ section were helpful. Have folks had any luck finding a Y Pipe in the junk yard? Is it worth getting the Y Pipe from a Junk yard? (in the 98's are there 2 little catalytic converters just south of the exhaust manafold and before the actual Y intersection?)
07-23-2010 | 09:12 AM
#6091
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 3
Next up replace my CV joints in my 98 SE M/T
The link in the How To: doesn't seem to work. Can anyone point me in the right direction? 98 SE with Manual Transmission. Both axles both ripped up, pass side clicking like mad.
07-23-2010 | 09:45 PM
#6092
Member
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 181
From: Western Pennsylvania
Here are some links that will also be helpful:
4th gen FAQs (READ ME! PLEASE! READ ME!):
reset airbag warning light ok, but the car won't crank
4th gen FAQs (READ ME! PLEASE! READ ME!):
reset airbag warning light ok, but the car won't crank
07-24-2010 | 04:07 AM
#6093
I recently acquired a 1999 I30 automatic with 120K miles, the car was my mothers since new. When the car downshifts into first at WOT, it seems clunky when it shifts almost like a motor mounts are getting worn. (it doesn't seem like they are broken) Is this normal wear and tear or an impending problem.
07-24-2010 | 07:55 AM
#6094
Member
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 221
From: Canada
07-24-2010 | 10:55 AM
#6095
Member
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 55
From: Oklahoma
I know I'm a Noobie and should keep my nose in the corner, but I would suggest Eibach Pro Springs. I currently have a 96 SE with GR-2 struts and Eibach Pro Springs. They give a great ride and I have yet to bottom out.
07-24-2010 | 11:03 AM
#6096
Member
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 181
From: Western Pennsylvania
No, No, I don't have that problem, I would like to read the big 4th Gen FAQ that seemed to preoccupy that link space i quoted previously. Might be a forum bug or something, I don't know.
07-24-2010 | 11:04 AM
#6097
type in this before www ---> web.archive.org/web/20080304034321/
It will lead you this page:
http://web.archive.org/web/200803040...ca/mvp.php/401
07-25-2010 | 05:51 AM
#6099
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...orks-high.html
Using the search forum will get most of your questions answered.
07-27-2010 | 12:53 PM
#6100
Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 21
Original codes from pepboys:
P1320- Primary ignition signal fault
P0325-Knock sensor problem bank 1
P0160-H02S2 B2, abnormal voltage
Problem 1: Car was bucking violently when gas isnt being applied (particularly in low gears) worsened to stalling and not holding idle
Fix 1: Vacuum line supposedly leaked (Crappy mechanic)
Took it into pepboys and they wouldn't touch my car cause it was so bad
Fix 2: Changed O2 sensor (Part # C5010-340482), problem 1 still occured thus mechanic changed Mass flow sensor.
Recommends: Catalytic Converter change and timing chain changed, also told me 3 of my ignition coils were bad.(at the moment the idle varies from 1300/1500 to 900)
After this the car ran a lot better, CEL was not on.
Problem 2: About a month and a half later, CEL comes on with P0325, and P0140. I don't sense anything wrong with the car, except it kinda bucks in low gears when i let off the gas, dad said it was normal and didnt say anything was wrong when he drove it.
Wondering what to do now...should I change all my coils, O2 sensors? I don't have any diagnostic tools, but I have basic mechanics tools .
Sorry for the longness, thought it was best to give the experts as much info as possible. Thanks for all who help.
P1320- Primary ignition signal fault
P0325-Knock sensor problem bank 1
P0160-H02S2 B2, abnormal voltage
Problem 1: Car was bucking violently when gas isnt being applied (particularly in low gears) worsened to stalling and not holding idle
Fix 1: Vacuum line supposedly leaked (Crappy mechanic)
Took it into pepboys and they wouldn't touch my car cause it was so bad
Fix 2: Changed O2 sensor (Part # C5010-340482), problem 1 still occured thus mechanic changed Mass flow sensor.
Recommends: Catalytic Converter change and timing chain changed, also told me 3 of my ignition coils were bad.(at the moment the idle varies from 1300/1500 to 900)
After this the car ran a lot better, CEL was not on.
Problem 2: About a month and a half later, CEL comes on with P0325, and P0140. I don't sense anything wrong with the car, except it kinda bucks in low gears when i let off the gas, dad said it was normal and didnt say anything was wrong when he drove it.
Wondering what to do now...should I change all my coils, O2 sensors? I don't have any diagnostic tools, but I have basic mechanics tools .
Sorry for the longness, thought it was best to give the experts as much info as possible. Thanks for all who help.
07-27-2010 | 04:43 PM
#6101
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 1
From: Kansas
I have a 4th generation('96). It's 5 spd, when I first got it, there was a hollow-quick-zip.. "honking"/Grind/rumble thing going on, only after 2nd gear...well, now it's worse, seems like on all gears.. and the other day it was smoking from the front passenger, but the wierd noise seems to be comming from the middle/rear undercarriage. Also, the front end shakes a bit(I figure an alignment will resolve this issue) but I have no idea what's going on with the noise....please help...
Last edited by JuNeBooGie96; 07-27-2010 at 04:48 PM.
07-28-2010 | 11:55 AM
#6102
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 6
From: chi town
Sup to all my max fam. I know I'm still the new guy. But i have a 97 max with 249 on the dash and I just gat rear ended 
. car might be total. looking to buy another one and use my old one for parts or sell the parts off it, need some suggustion.
. car might be total. looking to buy another one and use my old one for parts or sell the parts off it, need some suggustion.
07-28-2010 | 02:44 PM
#6103
Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 23
From: Montreal
Well I just bought my max a few months ago. It's a 96 and I'm redoing the rear brake lines. Problem is... as I was taking off the line for the rear driver's side wheel, it broke nearly under the hood and I can't see where it routs to the master cylinder.
My question is pretty simple. I'd like someone to please show me (if possible) where the brake lines are routed from the master cylinder. That way I can just leave the broken line where it is and just route a completely new line to the back until I can bring it to my garage. Also, I assume there's a proportioning valve somewhere... so the routing from either the MC or PV please.
Any help is appreciated. In the meantime I'm gonna see if I can find it in mitchell.
Thx.
M.
My question is pretty simple. I'd like someone to please show me (if possible) where the brake lines are routed from the master cylinder. That way I can just leave the broken line where it is and just route a completely new line to the back until I can bring it to my garage. Also, I assume there's a proportioning valve somewhere... so the routing from either the MC or PV please.
Any help is appreciated. In the meantime I'm gonna see if I can find it in mitchell.
Thx.
M.
Last edited by MaXPoWA; 07-28-2010 at 02:47 PM.
07-28-2010 | 08:16 PM
#6104
Well how bad is the damage? Does both rear quarter panels need replacing? if so, then yeah, you should start looking and use that for parts.
07-28-2010 | 09:55 PM
#6105
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 5
I have a 1996 Infiniti I30 and it is stalling sometimes. When I am slowing down or at a stop, it try to stall. I have no check engine light and my tachometer fluctuates when I am idle. Sometimes before it stalls, It surges then drop to around 300 rpms. My mechanic tells me to wait until it breaks down so he doesn't start replacing things that might be replaced. I notice today, that even through it didn't stall, my rpms drop drastically and fluctuated back and forth, and then went to 1000 rpms , which jerked my car ( I had my foot on the break).Also my tachometer floats between like 450 and 700 when I am idle, even through it doesn't stalls. What could be causing this and is it ok to 300 miles out of town?
07-29-2010 | 11:58 AM
#6106
Member
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 62
From: cleveland tn
I just got a 99 nissan gle. I have been trying to find some bolt ons that work together so i can pull as much hp out of my engine as possible. Can someone recommend some parts? Does anyone know where i can find a supercharger for the maxima? Or is the car ment for a turbo? If you can list the parts and the website that would be great.
07-29-2010 | 12:51 PM
#6107
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 4,011
From: Worcester, MA
I just got a 99 nissan gle. I have been trying to find some bolt ons that work together so i can pull as much hp out of my engine as possible. Can someone recommend some parts? Does anyone know where i can find a supercharger for the maxima? Or is the car ment for a turbo? If you can list the parts and the website that would be great.
07-29-2010 | 12:54 PM
#6108
I just got a 99 nissan gle. I have been trying to find some bolt ons that work together so i can pull as much hp out of my engine as possible. Can someone recommend some parts? Does anyone know where i can find a supercharger for the maxima? Or is the car ment for a turbo? If you can list the parts and the website that would be great.
http://forums.maxima.org/supercharged-turbocharged-38/
http://forums.maxima.org/nitrous-40/
07-29-2010 | 12:54 PM
#6109
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 4,011
From: Worcester, MA
I have a 1996 Infiniti I30 and it is stalling sometimes. When I am slowing down or at a stop, it try to stall. I have no check engine light and my tachometer fluctuates when I am idle. Sometimes before it stalls, It surges then drop to around 300 rpms. My mechanic tells me to wait until it breaks down so he doesn't start replacing things that might be replaced. I notice today, that even through it didn't stall, my rpms drop drastically and fluctuated back and forth, and then went to 1000 rpms , which jerked my car ( I had my foot on the break).Also my tachometer floats between like 450 and 700 when I am idle, even through it doesn't stalls. What could be causing this and is it ok to 300 miles out of town?
However, Its sounds like your IACV is the problem. Troubleshoot as per FSM. U will need a multimeter.
DO a SEARCH for IACV. Get yo info up. If u need FSM, Fallenone has a downloadable file in his sig.
07-29-2010 | 03:00 PM
#6110
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 5
First thing to do is to perfrom the TB, MAF, IACV cleaning as per the how-tos. The cleaning will help with overall driveability.
However, Its sounds like your IACV is the problem. Troubleshoot as per FSM. U will need a multimeter.
DO a SEARCH for IACV. Get yo info up. If u need FSM, Fallenone has a downloadable file in his sig.
However, Its sounds like your IACV is the problem. Troubleshoot as per FSM. U will need a multimeter.
DO a SEARCH for IACV. Get yo info up. If u need FSM, Fallenone has a downloadable file in his sig.
I took it to a mechanic a little over a week ago, when my check engine light was on ( which through codes P0325 for Knock Sensor, P0401 for the EGR tube being clogged with carbon, and P1401, which said Throttle body Position Sensor) and I know he cleaned my throttle body, intake manifold collector, my egr guide tube and replaced my egr temperature sensor and throttle body position sensor. I took it back to him because it is still stalling. I cleaned my mass air flow sensor myself with rubbing alcohol and a q-tip, but it wasn't dirty. I have a factory service manual, but I have been told it is either my mass air flow sensor or my IACV, but my mechanic doesn't want to replace both of them because he says they will be throwing codes. Is that true? Is it safe buying theses parts on online or going to a junk yard and getting them? I have been reading that the MAF may not throw a code. I will drive it some more tomorrow and see if I can give a more specific description of the problem.
07-30-2010 | 09:11 AM
#6111
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 61
From: Austin, TX
can anyone refer me to a wiring diagram? specifically one to check the polarity of the wires to the knock sensor? my harness self destructed upon my attempt to remove it and i'm going to replace the plastic piece, so I'd like to know which wire is which (i'd rather not test to see if the KS is polarity sensitive and cause it to stop functioning just by guessing lol)
07-31-2010 | 07:21 AM
#6112
can anyone refer me to a wiring diagram? specifically one to check the polarity of the wires to the knock sensor? my harness self destructed upon my attempt to remove it and i'm going to replace the plastic piece, so I'd like to know which wire is which (i'd rather not test to see if the KS is polarity sensitive and cause it to stop functioning just by guessing lol)
Page EC-241 of this manual:
http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/maxima/1998/EC.pdf
Page EL-308 of this manual:
http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/maxima/1998/EL.pdf
07-31-2010 | 07:33 AM
#6113
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 5
Thank You for replying. It is now doing something else ( now I realize) . I recently had to move out of my apartment, so I had to use my car. Now when I first turn it on, when in park idle, it is revving 1500 rpm, more then usually. When I put it in drive it drops to 700 rpm and sways a little ( give or take 100 rpm). But when I was moving, it stalled while I was at a light. I cut it back, a couple seconds later, it shut off again ( both times it sways to like 1000 rpm then down to 500 rpm) Then I turned it on again, took it out neutral and put my foot in the gas and went. While I be driving with my foot off the gas, it would be at normal rpm and then drop and come back up, when I put my foot back on the gas. It never cut off while I am accelerating. I am going to take it back to the mechanic on Monday and tell him what is happening, he said he already cleaned the IACV. Could the mass air flow sensor be causing this, or is it definitely a faulty IACV? ( I would replace both, but they are both expensive)
07-31-2010 | 12:32 PM
#6115
wassup guys...i just bought a 4th gen as a project for a weekend beast but before i start tuning i gotta get the little things done...so far the two problems i have are
1. when i put the key in the ignition its very stiff and hard to turn on and off
2. previous owner replaces the cluster and while the car has never been in an accident and has airbags the airbag light keeps repeatedly blinking
any solutions would be appreciated...thanks
1. when i put the key in the ignition its very stiff and hard to turn on and off
2. previous owner replaces the cluster and while the car has never been in an accident and has airbags the airbag light keeps repeatedly blinking
any solutions would be appreciated...thanks
07-31-2010 | 01:56 PM
#6116
Member
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 221
From: Canada
wassup guys...i just bought a 4th gen as a project for a weekend beast but before i start tuning i gotta get the little things done...so far the two problems i have are
1. when i put the key in the ignition its very stiff and hard to turn on and off
2. previous owner replaces the cluster and while the car has never been in an accident and has airbags the airbag light keeps repeatedly blinking
any solutions would be appreciated...thanks
1. when i put the key in the ignition its very stiff and hard to turn on and off
2. previous owner replaces the cluster and while the car has never been in an accident and has airbags the airbag light keeps repeatedly blinking
any solutions would be appreciated...thanks
07-31-2010 | 02:21 PM
#6117
Member
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 221
From: Canada
Thank You for replying. It is now doing something else ( now I realize) . I recently had to move out of my apartment, so I had to use my car. Now when I first turn it on, when in park idle, it is revving 1500 rpm, more then usually. When I put it in drive it drops to 700 rpm and sways a little ( give or take 100 rpm). But when I was moving, it stalled while I was at a light. I cut it back, a couple seconds later, it shut off again ( both times it sways to like 1000 rpm then down to 500 rpm) Then I turned it on again, took it out neutral and put my foot in the gas and went. While I be driving with my foot off the gas, it would be at normal rpm and then drop and come back up, when I put my foot back on the gas. It never cut off while I am accelerating. I am going to take it back to the mechanic on Monday and tell him what is happening, he said he already cleaned the IACV. Could the mass air flow sensor be causing this, or is it definitely a faulty IACV? ( I would replace both, but they are both expensive)
08-01-2010 | 04:32 AM
#6118
Member
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 62
From: cleveland tn
I have a 99 maxima gle which y-pipe is better? i seen magnaflow ,warpspeed ,cattman , and erz . whats a mevi kit? Whats a 00VI swap?Which one of the two (mevi kit, 00VI) is easier to install?? Oh and i installed a cold air intake on my car and after a couple of days my check engine light came on and i had it check and its my knock sensor and O2 sensor would my cold air intake cause that to happen? Im still really new with my maxima ive only really owned dodges so any help would be great thanks
08-01-2010 | 08:26 AM
#6119
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 61
From: Austin, TX
Page EC-241 of this manual:
http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/maxima/1998/EC.pdf
Page EL-308 of this manual:
http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/maxima/1998/EL.pdf
http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/maxima/1998/EC.pdf
Page EL-308 of this manual:
http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/maxima/1998/EL.pdf
Thanks man, was able to re-construct the wiring harness to my KS. Now I'm down to one final issue I'd like to see if anyone can help with.
I pulled the codes and I'm having only one little hiccup with my car ('95 max GLE, auto, CAI) I'm getting an 0608 (cyl. 1 misfire) that I can't seem to place the cause of.
My knock sensor was JUST replaced, my whole set of coilpacks replaced. I've been running it for a week or two trying to see if I'd get a code thrown for anything that could be causing it, but to no avail. I pulled the spark plug, cleaned the varnish off it, cleaned the contacts to the coilpack and wiring harness, cleaned the spring to the coilpack, stretched the contact spring. EVERYTHING.
Any suggestions or ideas? I'm thinking a fuel injector that may be stuck open or going out, bad wiring harness, or a short somewhere.
Last edited by kymera_gr7; 08-01-2010 at 09:10 AM.
08-01-2010 | 09:25 AM
#6120
Member
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 221
From: Canada
I have a 99 maxima gle which y-pipe is better? i seen magnaflow ,warpspeed ,cattman , and erz . whats a mevi kit? Whats a 00VI swap?Which one of the two (mevi kit, 00VI) is easier to install?? Oh and i installed a cold air intake on my car and after a couple of days my check engine light came on and i had it check and its my knock sensor and O2 sensor would my cold air intake cause that to happen? Im still really new with my maxima ive only really owned dodges so any help would be great thanks
Thanks man, was able to re-construct the wiring harness to my KS. Now I'm down to one final issue I'd like to see if anyone can help with.
I pulled the codes and I'm having only one little hiccup with my car ('95 max GLE, auto, CAI) I'm getting an 0608 (cyl. 1 misfire) that I can't seem to place the cause of.
My knock sensor was JUST replaced, my whole set of coilpacks replaced. I've been running it for a week or two trying to see if I'd get a code thrown for anything that could be causing it, but to no avail. I pulled the spark plug, cleaned the varnish off it, cleaned the contacts to the coilpack and wiring harness, cleaned the spring to the coilpack, stretched the contact spring. EVERYTHING.
Any suggestions or ideas? I'm thinking a fuel injector that may be stuck open or going out, bad wiring harness, or a short somewhere.
I pulled the codes and I'm having only one little hiccup with my car ('95 max GLE, auto, CAI) I'm getting an 0608 (cyl. 1 misfire) that I can't seem to place the cause of.
My knock sensor was JUST replaced, my whole set of coilpacks replaced. I've been running it for a week or two trying to see if I'd get a code thrown for anything that could be causing it, but to no avail. I pulled the spark plug, cleaned the varnish off it, cleaned the contacts to the coilpack and wiring harness, cleaned the spring to the coilpack, stretched the contact spring. EVERYTHING.
Any suggestions or ideas? I'm thinking a fuel injector that may be stuck open or going out, bad wiring harness, or a short somewhere.