The knock sensor won't trip the CEL, that code has likely been there for a while unnoticed.

Check your codes, see what they come up as (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3AYrSAtjFPI), post back here.

They're likely quoting you for replacing the KS by removing the upper/lower intake manifolds, which isn't entirely necessary (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R2ntaxi7bXk and http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fPIMOIwLISc).

The FI stuff isn't necessary IMO, we do them at work all the time at customer's request with no complaints, but I've also done them to my car and have seen no actual benefit. You could pretty much do the same for a couple of bucks for a bottle of Seafoam, or any of the FI 'cleaner' additives sold at auto parts stores.

First step is finding out what codes are actually being thrown. Assuming they aren't recommending plugs as a maintenance item but to actually address one of the codes you're throwing, it could be a multiple or random misfire code, something like that.

 

Thanks so much pmohr. The person I spoke to didn't say what the codes where but he did mention something about removing upper manifold. Thats basically the reason why he said the labor was so expensive..because of where the sensor was located. He brought up the plugs because they do coincide with code. He said the tip of the plugs looked worn or almost "melted"? Does all that make sense? I have a copy of the estimate if you want to look at it. Its in PDF form.

Thanks again for all the advice. It is much appreciated.

 

Please do post it up, it should shed more light on the subject.

 

I feel like a dumbass. I do not know how to do that. I tried, but it didn't work.

 

Open it, screen capture it, put it on photobucket?

 

 

I figured it out. Sorry about the huge post!

 

My car has a shimmy only when braking, more noticable at higher speeds like a warped rotor type of feeling. Only thing is I have now replaced all the pads and rotors and it is still there. Any ideas?

 

I searched and had no luck (Search challenged)!!

I have a 97 SE (2/97 build) My CEL is on for a O2 sensor specifically Bank 2 sensor 1.

I read my Chilton and it said that the DS O2 will not cause running issues (Which I have, car surges and dies sometimes)

The question I have is Bank 2 Sensor 1 the DS or is it one of the US?

Thanks in advance.
S

 

At the very least, if you really do need one, get one of the oem knock sensors off ebay (you can test it with a multimeter). Even the dealer is cheaper than the $300 they quoted you ($150 at courtesyparts.com). Also, for the $300 they quoted you for labour, you could get a fantastic set of tools. Finally, as pmohr said, there must be another code in there somewhere since the knock sensor won't come up on its own.

 

Funny, they'll charge $300 for a KS but they gave you free labor on the plugs.

Shame they didn't give you the actual codes that were thrown. Give the manual code reading a shot, otherwise most auto parts stores will check your codes for free (in the hopes of selling you a part to 'fix it').

Have you checked for play in the wheel bearings (all the way around) or for an uneven rotor mounting surface? Rust/debris deposits on the hubs making the rotors not sit flush can have the same effect.

Sensor 1 is always an upstream, 2 is a downstream. In your case it would be the front/left bank, upstream sensor. A bad upstream O2 sensor (either lazy or reporting incorrect values that aren't extremely out of spec) can indeed cause driveability issues. If they're never been replaced and you're at high mileage, consider replacing both upstreams at the same time, as they will get lazy over time but not throw a code. Closed loop power and MPG will drop as a result.

Personally I've had good luck with the cheap eBay KS', IIRC ~$30 range shipped. Giving the required tools to replace it a glance, you're looking at anywhere from $20 (HF) to $500 (tool truck), and that's even for doing it the correct way. Consider saving the money you would've spent on a KS to get one of the nice ~300 piece Craftsman sets, and they'll certainly come in handy in the future.

 

I just recently purchased my '96 Maxima and was wondering if I could change the front bumper to the '97-'99 style front end just because I like the look of it better. Is this possible without any modification to the body, fenders, etc.?

 

Yes, but keep in mind the grill won't look exactly right w/ respect to the bumper.

The rear bumper can be changed too, although the changes are hardly even noticeable. Some even swap the trunk lid so they can get the 97-99 red/clear tailights.

 

Does anyone know how to program the homelink system with a craftsman garage door opener with the blue buttons for rolling code?

 

I have a noise coming from the front timing cover more in the top-center area as isolated with a steoscope. I was wondering if this is more a sympton of the guide or tensioner. Is there a way to test the tensioners? I am assuming the tensioner is located in the access hole near the cam sensor, or is that where a guide is located? I want to try to fix it as soon as possible because of the noise. I first noticed it after I changed the oil in the car. I just recently purchased it and the old owner had penzoil synthetic in it and i put valvoline semisynthetic in it now. It usually starts ticking "similar to lifter tick" when the engine is warmed up. I can hear the lifters clack for .5 second when first started so I dont believe its the lifters as the noise isnt as pronounced on the valve cover. It is definatly inside the timing cover and sounds like a rough idler bearing type noise.

 

If I did do a bumper swap and also changed the grill to the 97-99 style, would that help?

 

The VQ doesn't have lifters, what you're hearing on cold start is chain rattle due to the main tensioner waiting on oil pressure to do it's job.

The top center doesn't have much, just a single upper guide. Upper left and right have the cam tensioners, as well as the secondary timing chains. You can't really test the tensioners on the bench, they need oil pressure to function properly.

Depending on year, there's a revised main tensioner/guide design that cuts down on chain noise, but you've got to remove the cover to install them (there are ways around that, but IMO are kind of hackish). The right side access cover is over the main tensioner and part of the guide, the left side is over the water pump.

What year visor? IIRC the later ones could do rolling code, but not the early models.

 

thanks for the help pmohr.

Mine is a 97. Im not sure why my sig isnt showing anymore.. Im guessing the visor is also the orginal as well.

As for the chain is there is only access for the main tensioner then on the right bank by the engine mount and the left bank is just for access to the water pump then? I didnt listen at all on the right bank as the noise is strongly coming from the left side with my steoscope. Would a bad primary tensioner just cause noise on the one bank? I tried to listen to the water pump housing and I can hear the noise as well but not as loud as if i just put the scope on the cover itself. Are there any good youtube videos of timing chain tensioner noise? The few I have searched and found on the sight are pw protected through photobucket.

 

Just got my max feels goood but feels like its lagging, I do have a code for KS n evap, new KS is on it's way n the evap is more than likely due to my gas cap not closing right my question is I would these issues cause my car to be a little slower? I ran a 15.3 fastest but only once n I felt like it should b a little faster, ne ideas?

 

If the knock sensor is bad then it is retarding your timing and slowing your car down.

 

1996 standard is making a clicking/rubbing noise when applying light/moderate brake. Noise mimics RPMs. Not as loud when applying heavy brake. Front brakes were replaced little over a year ago. Thanks!

 

hey guys i just put in some new copper ngk spark plugs and gapped them correctly and now im getting really bad missfires what should i do

 

I need to bleed my clutch but am having trouble locating it. I have a 1996 Nissan Maxima. Can Somebody help me locate it?

 

look just signed up and looking for some help around what parts to buy first... car is in great condition and its a 96 maxima planning to keep .. i need a new throwout berring soon anyways and was gunna just throw a heavy duty performace clutch kit in there...... is this a good idea or should i do all the work at once just want some discriptive feedback from true max fans... and it has 200k miles on it ... no lights or problems..plz someone get back to this..

 

u have to remove that plastic air duct thing.. dont really need it n e ways.. then theres a piston like finger joint that should move into the engine when u press the clutch . car can b off...... on top of that theres a valve ...looks like a tire valve... u loosen it(i think its a 6mm socket) just enough for the air to come out and slowly bleeed the clutch line...tighten the valve when releasing the clutch.

 

Have you pulled the wheels and checked the brakes? That's the first step when you have a brake noise.

Have you rechecked all of your work? If it wasn't misfiring before, but started misfiring after you put plugs in it, the problem should be fairly contained to either the work you did, or the parts you got.

Upper bleeder is on the left strut tower, lower bleeder is on the slave itself.



What do you mean should you do 'all the work' at once? Are you referring to putting an entire clutch kit in instead of just putting in a TOB?

If so, it really depends on how much downtime you can have with your car, how much money you are willing to spend right now, and whether or not your current clutch is bad or has a lot of wear on it. If you just throw a TOB in now and the clutch is on it's way out, you'll just have to pull the trans again in the near future to replace the clutch anyway.

If it's fine, leave it in there. If it's worn, then replace it.

Also, FWIW, unless your car has been swapped to a 5MT, it's not a GLE trim.

 

it is a gle i got it on the regii when i bought the car.. and whats a tob... whatever it is i wanna basically wanna do is tweak it a lil and yes i got time to put into my car im on the site right

 

Just saying, all GLE's are automatics from the factory. Either your VIN plate says RE4F04A, or your body code doesn't say G.

 

well its standard... are u refering to the label in the doorjam?
\

 

Well, your registration is wrong, or it was swapped. NO GLE's came as a stickshift, as Pmohr has pointed out.

 

No, the VIN plate on the firewall.

 

my 98 Maxima feels like it has a poss of power. what is usually the main culprit?

 

New here, not necessarily a Maxima enthusiast... but own one & have a question not sure if this is the right place to ask?

When cold, car will not turn on unless I hit the gas pedal. Every once in a while a "pop,pop,pop" sounds comes out of the exhaust. Recently, the car started shaking & making a popping - buzzing noise every time i accelerate, most notable up hills... but definitely all the time unless im going at a constant speed. There is also smoke & bad smell coming from the exhaust pipe.

 

hey guys i got an i35 and i bought some led tail lights for it but am having trouble installing the lights that are on the trunk. it seams that i have to take off part of the trunk to be able to remove and install the lights but im unable and unsure of how to do it. dont wana go and break something just forcing it off you know. so any help would be much appreciated.

 

Knock sensor is usually the main culprit. Use a Scan tool and see if you have a KS code...


What color is the smoke coming out the exhaust pipe? White or blue? Either is not good, but a telltale sign of your problem.

 

I was thinking that. However, when I contacted this Nissan Tech I knew he said that most people don't notice the power difference after he changes the knock sensor.


He said it is most likely the TPS or air flow meter, etc.

 

Posted a while ago chasing an oil leak that seems to come from the driver side. Don't think its the valve covers leaking this bad, most oil is dried near them (where i can see on the back one) but i now have an aggressive leak that comes down what looks like part of the transmission. under the car there is some thin plate that looks like it covers where the flywheel would be (assuming) but it has oil leaking down it. Can not see where it's coming from. any help PLEASE!!


Car is tearin through oil.

 

Hi

I just picked up used 99 Maxima SE 5sp with 176,000km for $1450 Canadian. For the safely they needed to fix the radiator support as it was all rusted out. It cost me $600 to replace it with a OEM part from Nissan and for the body shop to put it in.
Please note I really love this car. The previous owner didn't tell me much about the history,, ie what has been replaced over the years... So, I pretty much have to assume just maintenance but nothing major has been changed.

Now, I've had the car on the road for 1 week and it drives really nice. I do hear a howl from the clutch when in 1st and just get moving. First question, Should I replace the clutch or are there easy try suggestions to keep it going as long as possible? If the clutch is replaced, any recommendations is to better to go with OEM or are there good after marked ones?

I did get a engine light come on. It was code p0140. heated O2 sensor. I cleaned the connection wires to the sensor and to the engine and all grounds, I then erased the code and it hasn't come back for 600km so far. I figure, I will just change O2 sensors if it comes back on. Will I also have to ask Nissan to reprogram the ECU? Is it good to have Nissan reprogram the ECU with the most up to date code for this model or does it make a difference?

Looking at the exhaust. Everything, back of the Catalytic converter looks really new. Everything on the other side of the cat looks really rusted. I've read about after marked Flex pipes and Y pipes and other exhaust components. When it comes due to replacing. Is there a recommendation for replacing with one of the aftermarket Y pipes/ exhaust components keeping in mind I am hoping to keep the car emissions legal to drive on the road in Ontario Canada?

Since, I do love the car, I want to keep her going a few more years to come. I would welcome any other maintenance suggestions too.
Thanks so much for your time. I really appreciated it

 

upon removal of the air box i noticed what looks like the start has oil dripping from the underside. the car DOES have starter problems sometimes (have to give it a second THEN start it) Gonna investigate further..

 

Congratulations on your new purchase. I don't think you should worry about the ecu, I've never heard of anyone taking it back to Nissan to have it reprogrammed or whatever.

You can do a little searching about exhausts, it's a pretty common topic on here. There are a bunch of brands Cattman, Warpspeed, etc. Search and you will find.

Get yourself a copy of the FSM (factory service manual). Keep up on the maintenance. Take a good look at everything (you might want to change the coolant if it's not looking to fresh, etc).

Good luck with your new car.

ps. Depending on where you are, there are local maxima groups too, like torontomaxima.com aka TMEC.