NOOBIES: "I AM NEW HERE BUT HAVE A QUESTION" thread. Read FIRST post BEFORE posting!
11-21-2010 | 06:02 PM
#6521
Here's where I would start:
- Verify power/ground at the number 2 coil, and power at the injector.
- Ohm out the injector (spec is 10-14 ohms)
- Verify the ECU is (attempting to) trigger both the coil and injector. A noid light will help for this, or an analog multimeter. A digital one can work, but may not update quickly enough to see the signal.
- If all of the above check out, do a compression test (can do just that one cylinder, but best to do all).
The P1320 can be thrown by not only bad coils, but also the condenser (have never seen this) or a CKPS REF issue (seen this once, I think).
11-21-2010 | 07:13 PM
#6522
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 3
Car dies while drive and battery light comes on.
Hey guys for about a week my car was shutting off on me while driving , the engine would shut off , and the battery and brake light would come on. I came to find out my alternator was bad and got it replaced with an oem nissan alternator. Lastnight after about a week with the new alternator it suddenly died on me again but i dont believe the brake light came on this time. Could it be the new alternator has gone bad on me already?. I put the car in park and had my gf gas it to see if the lights would dim out but they didnt. That was something that was definitely happening with the old alternator. The car started right back up again and i made it home no problem. Any idea of what can be going on? A friend of mine said my battery may be going out since i was driving around for about a week with a bad alternator previously, is that a possibility? Any help would be much appreciated. Also for what its worth my car is a 1997 SE
11-21-2010 | 07:16 PM
#6523
Hey guys for about a week my car was shutting off on me while driving , the engine would shut off , and the battery and brake light would come on. I came to find out my alternator was bad and got it replaced with an oem nissan alternator. Lastnight after about a week with the new alternator it suddenly died on me again but i dont believe the brake light came on this time. Could it be the new alternator has gone bad on me already?. I put the car in park and had my gf gas it to see if the lights would dim out but they didnt. That was something that was definitely happening with the old alternator. The car started right back up again and i made it home no problem. Any idea of what can be going on? A friend of mine said my battery may be going out since i was driving around for about a week with a bad alternator previously, is that a possibility? Any help would be much appreciated. Also for what its worth my car is a 1997 SE
Driving with a bad alternator can cause the battery to fail, and driving with a bad battery can cause havoc on the electrical system (including, but not limited to, killing the alternator, causing issues with the ECU, etc). It can (not commonly, but can) cause certain driveability issues as you're experiencing as well.
Any codes?
11-22-2010 | 10:13 AM
#6525
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 43
Hey guys, I had an issue with my new to me 97' hard starting, it'd crank forever without firing, and eventually it'd just decide to fire and run pretty well. I changed the CKPS ref sensor which I ohmed out to find out it was completely open. I changed it out, and disconnected the battery for quite a while. Now the car starts right off without any hesitation, but it starts and then immediately dies. If I throttle it a little it'll run, I can rev it 3-4 times up between 2k-3k rpm and it'll settle into an idle and seemingly run fine. Once the car is warm the issue doesnt seem to present its self any longer. I've got a post-cat o2 sensor that I know is bad, but I dont think this will cause my issue would it? Wondering what else it could be, also, I swapped out of MAF sensor for another used one and it seemingly made no difference what so ever. And my cel is apparently not working as i've never seen it light up in any situation, something else to address, hopefully just a bulb.....
11-22-2010 | 02:53 PM
#6526
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 2
CEL Code P0443
Hi, I have the p0443 code and have looked through most threads about things to check. I came across the ones to check the evap vent control valve and when I went to check it, there's nothing there. There are three hoses that go to the charcoal canister, two small ones and one fat one. One of the small ones goes through a small round plastic part (not sure what that is) that just has an inlet and outlet. Also, the fat hose goes to a y-shaped plastic piece and the other end of it doesn't have anything connected to it. Is this normal or did someone take parts off and just leave it like that? It's a '95. Any help is appreciated thanks.
11-22-2010 | 06:45 PM
#6528
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 12
Cruise control minor surging
Any ideas to why my cruise control makes me feel like it is not staying consistent? When driving 75 down the interstate, it keeps the speed fairly consistent, however, it feels like the gas pedal is constantly being depressed then let off. The RPM only vary by about 100 and the speed usually stays within +/- 1 to 2 mph. It almost feels like I am driving with a crazy person that can't decide how fast to drive. Is there a sensor or something that could cause this?
Thank you for any input.
Thank you for any input.
11-22-2010 | 10:04 PM
#6529
Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 22
From: South Dakota
Noob here (can't wait for 15 replies)... I have a 98 Max with 124K miles, auto, no mods, no problems ever until 3 weeks ago...
One morning before work the car wouldn't start, it turned over, battery was good, but would not start. Figured I flooded it since I could smell gas out the tail pipe. (It had been a bit fussy starting before all of this, but always started) It wouldn't start the next day either, changed the plugs. No joy. (the original Nissan plugs looked pretty good actually)
Had a Camshaft Sensor pos code (0101), along with a knock sensor and 02 sensor, I changed the CMPS...The car started, seemed to run good!! On my way into work, it died at almost every stop light.
No codes... A mechanic suggested the crankshaft pos sensor or a throttle position sensor. Ordered both crankshaft pos sensors (left and right) and a TPS from Rock Auto... replaced all 3 - testing the car after each sensor replacement. (Aligned the TPS to 500 ohms when hot). I then changed the fuel pump (new) and fuel filter. The MAF is spotless as is the throttle body.
I cleaned all of the grounds I can find (sand paper, wire brush and alcohol), I added the transmission ground some, from maxima.org, have suggested might help (4ga wire). I also cleaned the battery posts.
Since I changed the CMPS and CKPS; The car will start without touching the gas pedal, it will run good (slight vibration at idle - almost imperceptible, but not there before these problems started), revs good, I can drive around with decent power (not quite normal tho), then it just dies - either while idling or while driving - no real pattern other than it takes 20 - 30 minutes before it starts acting up. When I restart the car, I can't get it to rev above 2500 RPM. Very rough when I try to rev it, acts like it's starving for gas. Leave the car sit for 30+ minutes... it starts, runs good, but again after 20-30 minutes of idling or driving the symptoms reappear.
I'm getting a CMPS and CKPS code again (0101 and 0905 - both sensors are new - the connectors are clean).
This car has no rust, burns no oil, did run great (30+mpg on the highway) and was my daily ride... I would hate to retire it, any help would be most appreciated.
Thanks,
dersh.
One morning before work the car wouldn't start, it turned over, battery was good, but would not start. Figured I flooded it since I could smell gas out the tail pipe. (It had been a bit fussy starting before all of this, but always started) It wouldn't start the next day either, changed the plugs. No joy. (the original Nissan plugs looked pretty good actually)
Had a Camshaft Sensor pos code (0101), along with a knock sensor and 02 sensor, I changed the CMPS...The car started, seemed to run good!! On my way into work, it died at almost every stop light.
No codes... A mechanic suggested the crankshaft pos sensor or a throttle position sensor. Ordered both crankshaft pos sensors (left and right) and a TPS from Rock Auto... replaced all 3 - testing the car after each sensor replacement. (Aligned the TPS to 500 ohms when hot). I then changed the fuel pump (new) and fuel filter. The MAF is spotless as is the throttle body.
I cleaned all of the grounds I can find (sand paper, wire brush and alcohol), I added the transmission ground some, from maxima.org, have suggested might help (4ga wire). I also cleaned the battery posts.
Since I changed the CMPS and CKPS; The car will start without touching the gas pedal, it will run good (slight vibration at idle - almost imperceptible, but not there before these problems started), revs good, I can drive around with decent power (not quite normal tho), then it just dies - either while idling or while driving - no real pattern other than it takes 20 - 30 minutes before it starts acting up. When I restart the car, I can't get it to rev above 2500 RPM. Very rough when I try to rev it, acts like it's starving for gas. Leave the car sit for 30+ minutes... it starts, runs good, but again after 20-30 minutes of idling or driving the symptoms reappear.
I'm getting a CMPS and CKPS code again (0101 and 0905 - both sensors are new - the connectors are clean).
This car has no rust, burns no oil, did run great (30+mpg on the highway) and was my daily ride... I would hate to retire it, any help would be most appreciated.
Thanks,
dersh.
After 2 weeks of fiddling with the car, the mechanic found a leaking upper intake gasket. Car runs great now except it's a bit fussy to start when it's cold outside, need to give it a bit of gas while cranking to get it going, then it runs all day long.
11-22-2010 | 10:44 PM
#6531
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 43
FYI... I finally had to take the car into a mechanic since I don't have 15 replies and didn't get much feedback from the above... (it was suggested I try the MAF and ECTS - didn't help)
After 2 weeks of fiddling with the car, the mechanic found a leaking upper intake gasket. Car runs great now except it's a bit fussy to start when it's cold outside, need to give it a bit of gas while cranking to get it going, then it runs all day long.
After 2 weeks of fiddling with the car, the mechanic found a leaking upper intake gasket. Car runs great now except it's a bit fussy to start when it's cold outside, need to give it a bit of gas while cranking to get it going, then it runs all day long.
I suppose that the time it was taking it to act up was just a matter of waiting of different engine materials to heat up and expand just slightly differently? Definately not a typical problem you had there, thanks for sharing your solution though, always sucks when your researching problems and someone has the same issues and never comes back with a solution. From one newbie to another thank you, even though I dont believe that is my problem
11-23-2010 | 03:31 PM
#6533
Hi, I have the p0443 code and have looked through most threads about things to check. I came across the ones to check the evap vent control valve and when I went to check it, there's nothing there. There are three hoses that go to the charcoal canister, two small ones and one fat one. One of the small ones goes through a small round plastic part (not sure what that is) that just has an inlet and outlet. Also, the fat hose goes to a y-shaped plastic piece and the other end of it doesn't have anything connected to it. Is this normal or did someone take parts off and just leave it like that? It's a '95. Any help is appreciated thanks.
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...ere-first.html
Last edited by jholley; 11-23-2010 at 03:44 PM.
11-23-2010 | 08:17 PM
#6535
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 5
Hello guys having trouble with 98 maxima feels like im stuck in one gear "say i'm stoped at a light once i hit the gas its like im going nowhere, i slightly take my foot off the gas then back on agian,then every feels like its shifting in place. What could this be? thanks in advance.
11-24-2010 | 03:15 PM
#6536
Misunderestimated
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 3
Hi folks, I have a '95 Maxima M/T with 135K, throwing ECU codes 0303 (front left heated O2 sensor) and 0308 (closed loop control). Two quick questions:
* Is the latter caused by the former?
* How are Bosch or Denso replacement O2 sensors? ($50 cheaper than Nissan label)
Thanks, and Happy Thanksgiving!
* Is the latter caused by the former?
* How are Bosch or Denso replacement O2 sensors? ($50 cheaper than Nissan label)
Thanks, and Happy Thanksgiving!
11-24-2010 | 10:01 PM
#6537
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 13
ill check the calipers but it happens only when accelerating not braking tho (i did hit that kid the other day jk) it was just aligned and its a very harsh pull so i doubt its the crown of the road
11-26-2010 | 03:49 PM
#6538
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 12
Replaced Fuel Pressure regulator - NOT
I posted a while back about my starting issue. I have done the grounds, cleaned the crank and cam positions sensors, and now replaced the fuel pressure regulator. My I30 sometimes requires me to press the gas pedal to get it to start. If it doesn't start normally, It always starts as soon as I give it gas. Could it be my TPS? Any other ideas? I have read it could also be the temperature sensor, but I just don't think that would be it as it seems to be fuel/throttle related, but who knows.
11-28-2010 | 11:29 PM
#6539
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 1
LED Corner lights
Hey, Noob here.. I had a question with LED lights.
Im installing them in the corner lights of my 99 maxima SE, as you know the bulb is an 1157 and also after reading up the site everyone loves is ( http://www.v-leds.com ).
Well the question i have is the 1157's on there site are 1) expensive (more then other sites) and 2) they say there dual color White & Amber for the blinker, now if i install them in the corner light will they work as white LED's? or are there single color 1157's that im too stupid to find
Heres the link to the Dual Color LED's ( http://www.v-leds.com/Exterior-LED/T...72058-1-2.html )
An answer would be appreciated :]
Thanks!
Im installing them in the corner lights of my 99 maxima SE, as you know the bulb is an 1157 and also after reading up the site everyone loves is ( http://www.v-leds.com ).
Well the question i have is the 1157's on there site are 1) expensive (more then other sites) and 2) they say there dual color White & Amber for the blinker, now if i install them in the corner light will they work as white LED's? or are there single color 1157's that im too stupid to find
Heres the link to the Dual Color LED's ( http://www.v-leds.com/Exterior-LED/T...72058-1-2.html )
An answer would be appreciated :]
Thanks!
12-02-2010 | 07:30 AM
#6541
Member
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 221
From: Canada
12-02-2010 | 01:36 PM
#6542
Tie rod question.
Whats up guys. I have a 96 gle and took it to get an alignment. My steering wheel was cocked to the left and the front tires were wearing funny (inside bald) indicating my wheels weren't aligned (toe in?). So the guy comes up and says I need two tires and two inner tie rods. The estimated cost was $465.72. I respectfully declined their offer to rape me and in return got an attitude from the front desk/manager guy. So I paid for the alignment and left.
When I got on the highway about a 1/8th mile away I gave it some gas on the ramp to get to roughly 70. As I sped up the whole front end started shaking and wobbling. Really pissed me off. So at about 68-70 mph this car develops a mean wobble. It didn’t seem like a good idea to push it any further to see if it stopped wobbling and shaking at say 85. It totally didn’t do that before the alignment....and it pulls worse than it did lol.
My question is: Will the tie rods make my steering wheel, dash, etc wobble and vibrate at 70 mph if they are in fact bad?
I plan on getting some tires and have an FSM as well as air tools so I am completely capable of swapping tie rods. Advance has Moog tie rods for $39.99 each. Nissan wants $47.43 for theirs and they have to order them.
Should I get the Nissan ones or the Advance ones?
Do I need to get another alignment after I replace the ones that are worn out?
Should I be looking at something else, like wheel bearing, LCA, etc?
Thanks for your time guys.
When I got on the highway about a 1/8th mile away I gave it some gas on the ramp to get to roughly 70. As I sped up the whole front end started shaking and wobbling. Really pissed me off. So at about 68-70 mph this car develops a mean wobble. It didn’t seem like a good idea to push it any further to see if it stopped wobbling and shaking at say 85. It totally didn’t do that before the alignment....and it pulls worse than it did lol.
My question is: Will the tie rods make my steering wheel, dash, etc wobble and vibrate at 70 mph if they are in fact bad?
I plan on getting some tires and have an FSM as well as air tools so I am completely capable of swapping tie rods. Advance has Moog tie rods for $39.99 each. Nissan wants $47.43 for theirs and they have to order them.
Should I get the Nissan ones or the Advance ones?
Do I need to get another alignment after I replace the ones that are worn out?
Should I be looking at something else, like wheel bearing, LCA, etc?
Thanks for your time guys.
12-03-2010 | 08:17 AM
#6543
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 17
Hi folks, I have a '95 Maxima M/T with 135K, throwing ECU codes 0303 (front left heated O2 sensor) and 0308 (closed loop control). Two quick questions:
* Is the latter caused by the former?
* How are Bosch or Denso replacement O2 sensors? ($50 cheaper than Nissan label)
Thanks, and Happy Thanksgiving!
* Is the latter caused by the former?
* How are Bosch or Denso replacement O2 sensors? ($50 cheaper than Nissan label)
Thanks, and Happy Thanksgiving!
* I've had good luck with Denso O2 sensors. I've also tried NTK and Beck/Arnley sensors and for some reason they both died within a year, my Denso sensor has lasted 3 years so far though. No experience with Bosch sensors.
12-03-2010 | 08:23 AM
#6544
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 17
Yes, you will need an alignment after replacing tie rods. Some alignment shops will give you a free one if you just bought one from them within 6 months.
12-03-2010 | 11:30 AM
#6545
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 13
From: Strong Island, NY
question about audio...
Hey guys, i'd really like some help on this.
I got an 03' Max GLE. Bose system, no navigation.
I've been searching around for an in-dash navigation unit.
Im just not sure if i have to stick with a flipout unit or can i go with an actual in dash unit?....
ive been searching around but havent found any real answers. i joined the forum because you guys seem to know everything about these things..hahaha
thanks
I got an 03' Max GLE. Bose system, no navigation.
I've been searching around for an in-dash navigation unit.
Im just not sure if i have to stick with a flipout unit or can i go with an actual in dash unit?....
ive been searching around but havent found any real answers. i joined the forum because you guys seem to know everything about these things..hahaha
thanks
12-03-2010 | 01:36 PM
#6546
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 17
Hey guys, i'd really like some help on this.
I got an 03' Max GLE. Bose system, no navigation.
I've been searching around for an in-dash navigation unit.
Im just not sure if i have to stick with a flipout unit or can i go with an actual in dash unit?....
ive been searching around but havent found any real answers. i joined the forum because you guys seem to know everything about these things..hahaha
thanks
I got an 03' Max GLE. Bose system, no navigation.
I've been searching around for an in-dash navigation unit.
Im just not sure if i have to stick with a flipout unit or can i go with an actual in dash unit?....
ive been searching around but havent found any real answers. i joined the forum because you guys seem to know everything about these things..hahaha
thanks
I imagine anything DIN would fit. See for example: http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...-pictures.html
12-04-2010 | 05:39 PM
#6548
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 2
help
so about a week ago i put a new idler pulley on my 95 maxima after it fell off while driving tonight while i was driving my radio started to flash i started losing power no accelaration dim headlights i tired to turn my overdrive off then that light started to flash then the car died and had no power at all checked and the belt didnt fall off the pulley i just replaced and i never got a battery indicator light telling me anything was wrong with my battery thanks for all the help in advance
12-04-2010 | 06:27 PM
#6549
Member
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 221
From: Canada
so about a week ago i put a new idler pulley on my 95 maxima after it fell off while driving tonight while i was driving my radio started to flash i started losing power no accelaration dim headlights i tired to turn my overdrive off then that light started to flash then the car died and had no power at all checked and the belt didnt fall off the pulley i just replaced and i never got a battery indicator light telling me anything was wrong with my battery thanks for all the help in advance
I suspect your belt was not properly tightened. That will stop the alternator from providing output. If you're not sure how tight it should be, you can get a deflection gauge at a tool store for about $20 probably. The specs are in the FSM.
12-05-2010 | 06:20 AM
#6550
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 12
Any ideas??
Any ideas?? Kind of stumped here.
I posted a while back about my starting issue. I have done the grounds, cleaned the crank and cam positions sensors, and now replaced the fuel pressure regulator. My I30 sometimes requires me to press the gas pedal to get it to start. If it doesn't start normally, It always starts as soon as I give it gas. Could it be my TPS? Any other ideas? I have read it could also be the temperature sensor, but I just don't think that would be it as it seems to be fuel/throttle related, but who knows.
12-05-2010 | 06:53 AM
#6551
I posted a while back about my starting issue. I have done the grounds, cleaned the crank and cam positions sensors, and now replaced the fuel pressure regulator. My I30 sometimes requires me to press the gas pedal to get it to start. If it doesn't start normally, It always starts as soon as I give it gas. Could it be my TPS? Any other ideas? I have read it could also be the temperature sensor, but I just don't think that would be it as it seems to be fuel/throttle related, but who knows.
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...g-dummies.html
A need to hit the gas pedal to get a start can also idicate lack-of-air.
12-05-2010 | 11:29 AM
#6552
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 1
Hey guys I'm looking at buying a 99 Maxima and I need some advice. It's a bright red limited edition with a 5 speed. The guy wants 2500 for it and he's not budging on the price. I took it for a test drive and everything seems fine. The interior is immaculate and the exterior is in good shape. The only problem is it has 230k miles. I was just wondering if you all could tell me some things to look out for. My dad used to have a 2000 Maxima and it would go through ignition coils left and right but other than that it was a great car. I know Chevy trucks inside and out but I don't know the first thing about these cars. Thanks for any advice.
To clarify what I'm asking, what are some common problems on these cars, what should I look look for when I'm checking it out, is 2500 a rip off, is it even worth buying with 230k on the clock? Any help is much appreciated.
To clarify what I'm asking, what are some common problems on these cars, what should I look look for when I'm checking it out, is 2500 a rip off, is it even worth buying with 230k on the clock? Any help is much appreciated.
Last edited by Rebelution; 12-06-2010 at 06:12 AM.
12-05-2010 | 12:43 PM
#6553
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 12
Great link, thank you.
Thank you for the link. I am going to have to wait for a warmer day to tackle all of that though.
Give your air intake parts a good cleaning:
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...g-dummies.html
A need to hit the gas pedal to get a start can also idicate lack-of-air.
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...g-dummies.html
A need to hit the gas pedal to get a start can also idicate lack-of-air.
12-06-2010 | 02:47 PM
#6554
Member
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 221
From: Canada
Hey guys I'm looking at buying a 99 Maxima and I need some advice. It's a bright red limited edition with a 5 speed. The guy wants 2500 for it and he's not budging on the price. I took it for a test drive and everything seems fine. The interior is immaculate and the exterior is in good shape. The only problem is it has 230k miles. I was just wondering if you all could tell me some things to look out for. My dad used to have a 2000 Maxima and it would go through ignition coils left and right but other than that it was a great car. I know Chevy trucks inside and out but I don't know the first thing about these cars. Thanks for any advice.
To clarify what I'm asking, what are some common problems on these cars, what should I look look for when I'm checking it out, is 2500 a rip off, is it even worth buying with 230k on the clock? Any help is much appreciated.
To clarify what I'm asking, what are some common problems on these cars, what should I look look for when I'm checking it out, is 2500 a rip off, is it even worth buying with 230k on the clock? Any help is much appreciated.
Whats up guys. I have a 96 gle and took it to get an alignment. My steering wheel was cocked to the left and the front tires were wearing funny (inside bald) indicating my wheels weren't aligned (toe in?). So the guy comes up and says I need two tires and two inner tie rods. The estimated cost was $465.72. I respectfully declined their offer to rape me and in return got an attitude from the front desk/manager guy. So I paid for the alignment and left.
When I got on the highway about a 1/8th mile away I gave it some gas on the ramp to get to roughly 70. As I sped up the whole front end started shaking and wobbling. Really pissed me off. So at about 68-70 mph this car develops a mean wobble. It didn’t seem like a good idea to push it any further to see if it stopped wobbling and shaking at say 85. It totally didn’t do that before the alignment....and it pulls worse than it did lol.
My question is: Will the tie rods make my steering wheel, dash, etc wobble and vibrate at 70 mph if they are in fact bad?
I plan on getting some tires and have an FSM as well as air tools so I am completely capable of swapping tie rods. Advance has Moog tie rods for $39.99 each. Nissan wants $47.43 for theirs and they have to order them.
Should I get the Nissan ones or the Advance ones?
Do I need to get another alignment after I replace the ones that are worn out?
Should I be looking at something else, like wheel bearing, LCA, etc?
Thanks for your time guys.
When I got on the highway about a 1/8th mile away I gave it some gas on the ramp to get to roughly 70. As I sped up the whole front end started shaking and wobbling. Really pissed me off. So at about 68-70 mph this car develops a mean wobble. It didn’t seem like a good idea to push it any further to see if it stopped wobbling and shaking at say 85. It totally didn’t do that before the alignment....and it pulls worse than it did lol.
My question is: Will the tie rods make my steering wheel, dash, etc wobble and vibrate at 70 mph if they are in fact bad?
I plan on getting some tires and have an FSM as well as air tools so I am completely capable of swapping tie rods. Advance has Moog tie rods for $39.99 each. Nissan wants $47.43 for theirs and they have to order them.
Should I get the Nissan ones or the Advance ones?
Do I need to get another alignment after I replace the ones that are worn out?
Should I be looking at something else, like wheel bearing, LCA, etc?
Thanks for your time guys.
12-06-2010 | 04:14 PM
#6555
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 2
1999 evap error codes
had error code for bad ks - replaced ks and code cleared
also had code p0446 - replaced vapor can vent valve code did not clear and added code p0443.
I've checked the purge valve solenoid with 12v and it does fire but doesn't seem to be doing anything while the engine is running.
What am I missing here?
also had code p0446 - replaced vapor can vent valve code did not clear and added code p0443.
I've checked the purge valve solenoid with 12v and it does fire but doesn't seem to be doing anything while the engine is running.
What am I missing here?
12-06-2010 | 04:23 PM
#6556
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 2
the can vent valve is mounted right in front of the charcoal canister. The canister has a hole in it that the valve pushes into. The other side of the valve has the power connector and another hose port which should be routed out to behind the car.
12-06-2010 | 07:58 PM
#6557
Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 20
From: Phx, Arizona
hey guys still a noob here, i recently changed out the water pump on my 95 maxima. i think i might have moved the crank before installing the new pump, it runs fine but it feels alot slower... could i have thrown off the timing? if so how can i go about adjusting it again. i havent found ne thing on the timing chains
12-07-2010 | 02:02 PM
#6558
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 3
99 maintainence 'upgrades'
I have a '99 SE with 174K on it, mostly used for trips and my wife's running around. She's tired of it and I get to play a little bit. I am not real experienced or have a lot of space to work with but is there a list of 'starter' mods or maintainance steps I can use? (I've seen references to using a 300Z fuel filter for ex.)
The forum has a huge amount of information and I may have missed this if it exists. Thank you.
The forum has a huge amount of information and I may have missed this if it exists. Thank you.
12-07-2010 | 03:39 PM
#6559
Member
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 114
Noisy tensioner Pully?
I had my alternator replaced yesterday and they said I needed to replace my idler/tensioner pully. When I started it up i did hear a sort of medium/high pitched metallic noise coming from that area, but it seemed to go away. Fearing that the pully would seize up, I replaced it today with a new one from autozone. Now it's even louder. I hate autozone, but they were the only store with the pully in stock. Does this sound like I bought a bad pully or is something else going on? I never noticed the sound before they replaced my alt, but I am not 100% sure.
