NOOBIES: "I AM NEW HERE BUT HAVE A QUESTION" thread. Read FIRST post BEFORE posting!
09-26-2011, 09:49 AM
#7721
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Alabama
Posts: 19
A while back I posted about my stereo not picking up a good signal. I had several replies (new head unit, new antenna, etc.) none of which worked.
The basic issue is that my stereo works fine for everything but the tuner. I get a signal that alternates between good and bad (there is not a pattern that I can detect). Some new information is that I tried the AM stations on a whim and they come in perfect. The only thing I can think of is that that antenna that handles FM frequency is corroded and needs cleaning.
Any suggestions (cleaning or otherwise)?
The basic issue is that my stereo works fine for everything but the tuner. I get a signal that alternates between good and bad (there is not a pattern that I can detect). Some new information is that I tried the AM stations on a whim and they come in perfect. The only thing I can think of is that that antenna that handles FM frequency is corroded and needs cleaning.
Any suggestions (cleaning or otherwise)?
09-26-2011, 12:19 PM
#7722
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Las Vegas, NV
Posts: 6
The P1320 says that one of the ignition coil packs is not firing. P0301 says that the coil pack on cylinder #1 is not firing.
Evidently the coil pack on cyl 1 has gone bad. You are running on 5 cylinders instead of 6. This explains the "chugging" that you are referring to. To check this out, unplug the wire connector while the car is idling. On a good cylinder, the engine will idle worse. On a bad cylinder, there will be no change. You could swap the ignition coil from cyl 3 or 5 and try the wire disconnectring process again and see (hopefully) that the problem has moved.
Evidently the coil pack on cyl 1 has gone bad. You are running on 5 cylinders instead of 6. This explains the "chugging" that you are referring to. To check this out, unplug the wire connector while the car is idling. On a good cylinder, the engine will idle worse. On a bad cylinder, there will be no change. You could swap the ignition coil from cyl 3 or 5 and try the wire disconnectring process again and see (hopefully) that the problem has moved.
I forgot to mention before that I also replaced the MAF cleaned the throttle body and the IAC with no change. Thanks again for your help.
09-26-2011, 01:27 PM
#7723
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 5
95 Maxima Wheels
Hi, I recently inquired about my exhaust issues. Well, its done. Used a Spectre CAT and a "custom" resonator to take care of the loudness and rasp. Left the Flowmaster on there and it doesn't sound half bad. Here's a video I recently posted and wanted to know your opinions.
Also, I've heard that the offset for 05 Maxima wheels is the same as the 4th gen offset. If that's true where would you recommend I get them from? Website or anywhere in between Chicago and Indianapolis.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iLBk...e_gdata_player
Also, I've heard that the offset for 05 Maxima wheels is the same as the 4th gen offset. If that's true where would you recommend I get them from? Website or anywhere in between Chicago and Indianapolis.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iLBk...e_gdata_player
09-26-2011, 02:32 PM
#7724
Buying my first Maxima 1998 GXE
Well after owning nothing but GM cars I am buying a 1998 Nissan Maxima GXE . It has 197,000 miles on it but seems to run real good. Only problem I found was the cruise control button on the dash lit up but when you try to set it on the steering wheel nothing happens. Also it pulls to the right real bad guessing it just needs a alignment.
Guess my question is is there anything I should be looking for or have dome right away not knowing the history of the vehicle and having that many miles? Thanks for you help.
Guess my question is is there anything I should be looking for or have dome right away not knowing the history of the vehicle and having that many miles? Thanks for you help.
09-26-2011, 06:54 PM
#7726
Well after owning nothing but GM cars I am buying a 1998 Nissan Maxima GXE . It has 197,000 miles on it but seems to run real good. Only problem I found was the cruise control button on the dash lit up but when you try to set it on the steering wheel nothing happens. Also it pulls to the right real bad guessing it just needs a alignment.
Guess my question is is there anything I should be looking for or have dome right away not knowing the history of the vehicle and having that many miles? Thanks for you help.
Guess my question is is there anything I should be looking for or have dome right away not knowing the history of the vehicle and having that many miles? Thanks for you help.
The alignment problem probably will need something replaced, tie rod end, control arm bushing. Again, age is catching up with our cars. Take the car to a place that specializes in suspension, where they know what to look for.
Things to check or do would be an auto trans oil change, engine coolant flush, new spark plugs, engine oil change unless you know when they were last done.
09-26-2011, 07:00 PM
#7727
If the previous owner used water instead of antifreeze, the coolant in the radiator would be clear. Antifreeze would be a rich, shiny green in the radiator, except for a few brands of antifreeze that are red. Even if water is used as coolant, The oil would still be a dark tan or brown because of the "mixing" process. The color of the coolant doesn't really seem to tint the oil.
09-27-2011, 05:00 AM
#7728
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Worcester, MA
Posts: 4,011
A while back I posted about my stereo not picking up a good signal. I had several replies (new head unit, new antenna, etc.) none of which worked.
The basic issue is that my stereo works fine for everything but the tuner. I get a signal that alternates between good and bad (there is not a pattern that I can detect). Some new information is that I tried the AM stations on a whim and they come in perfect. The only thing I can think of is that that antenna that handles FM frequency is corroded and needs cleaning.
Any suggestions (cleaning or otherwise)?
The basic issue is that my stereo works fine for everything but the tuner. I get a signal that alternates between good and bad (there is not a pattern that I can detect). Some new information is that I tried the AM stations on a whim and they come in perfect. The only thing I can think of is that that antenna that handles FM frequency is corroded and needs cleaning.
Any suggestions (cleaning or otherwise)?
09-27-2011, 07:30 AM
#7729
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 3
Help 95 Maxima
My daughters car will not start. We think it has to do with the security system.
we have been through all the door locking/unlocking trunk opening, windows up, till we just don't know what to do any more.
From the outside I can see the alarm light flashing. I put the key in the door and turn it to the left, and the light goes out. Turn it to the right to unlock the door and it's still out. As soon as I open the door, the light starts flashing again. When I turn the ignition switch to on, all the dash lights come on . When I turn it to the start position, nothing happens. No noise, no cranking.
Nothing.
The battery in not dead, the terminals are clean. I have taken them off, and put them back on, no change.
I have to work and she needs to go to school.
I can't afford to have it towed to a dealership and pay their rates to fix stuff.
Jim
we have been through all the door locking/unlocking trunk opening, windows up, till we just don't know what to do any more.
From the outside I can see the alarm light flashing. I put the key in the door and turn it to the left, and the light goes out. Turn it to the right to unlock the door and it's still out. As soon as I open the door, the light starts flashing again. When I turn the ignition switch to on, all the dash lights come on . When I turn it to the start position, nothing happens. No noise, no cranking.
Nothing.
The battery in not dead, the terminals are clean. I have taken them off, and put them back on, no change.
I have to work and she needs to go to school.
I can't afford to have it towed to a dealership and pay their rates to fix stuff.
Jim
09-27-2011, 08:03 AM
#7730
My daughters car will not start. We think it has to do with the security system.
we have been through all the door locking/unlocking trunk opening, windows up, till we just don't know what to do any more.
From the outside I can see the alarm light flashing. I put the key in the door and turn it to the left, and the light goes out. Turn it to the right to unlock the door and it's still out. As soon as I open the door, the light starts flashing again. When I turn the ignition switch to on, all the dash lights come on . When I turn it to the start position, nothing happens. No noise, no cranking.
Nothing.
The battery in not dead, the terminals are clean. I have taken them off, and put them back on, no change.
I have to work and she needs to go to school.
I can't afford to have it towed to a dealership and pay their rates to fix stuff.
Jim
we have been through all the door locking/unlocking trunk opening, windows up, till we just don't know what to do any more.
From the outside I can see the alarm light flashing. I put the key in the door and turn it to the left, and the light goes out. Turn it to the right to unlock the door and it's still out. As soon as I open the door, the light starts flashing again. When I turn the ignition switch to on, all the dash lights come on . When I turn it to the start position, nothing happens. No noise, no cranking.
Nothing.
The battery in not dead, the terminals are clean. I have taken them off, and put them back on, no change.
I have to work and she needs to go to school.
I can't afford to have it towed to a dealership and pay their rates to fix stuff.
Jim
First try tapping the starter with a long tool. Lean over the drivers fender and follow the positve wire down to the started solenoid switch. A photo from this website will show you the location of the starter:
http://www.motorvate.ca/node/52
Last edited by jholley; 09-27-2011 at 08:10 AM.
09-27-2011, 09:43 AM
#7731
If a starter will not crank it's either the ignition switch, starter relay, bad connection to the starter solenoid switch, or a faulty starter. You already confirmed the battery is good.
First try tapping the starter with a long tool. Lean over the drivers fender and follow the positve wire down to the started solenoid switch. A photo from this website will show you the location of the starter:
http://www.motorvate.ca/node/52
First try tapping the starter with a long tool. Lean over the drivers fender and follow the positve wire down to the started solenoid switch. A photo from this website will show you the location of the starter:
http://www.motorvate.ca/node/52
I agree with jholley its either gotta be the ignition swich or something with the starter good luck !!
09-27-2011, 10:49 AM
#7733
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 3
Update on our problem
1. I talked to an independent shop, and the guy agrees with you all. He thinks it's the starter.
2. The wife talked to a dealership guy. He thinks it's related to the neutral safety switch. Maybe slop in the shifter cable?
3. My son came by and went back through all the security re-setting steps.
Car would not start. He shifted it out of P, and back in, then it started!
The dealer guy says the anti theft stuff does not keep the starter motor from turning. I have seen claims on the internet in both directions. I really don't know who to believe. It doesn't really say in the owners manual.
Now it starts, but I don't trust it. Using the bad neutral switch logic, I tried to find the bad spot where it won't let the car start, and I could not.
Should I just spend the $100.00 on a starter? and what ever on an ignition switch?
Jim
2. The wife talked to a dealership guy. He thinks it's related to the neutral safety switch. Maybe slop in the shifter cable?
3. My son came by and went back through all the security re-setting steps.
Car would not start. He shifted it out of P, and back in, then it started!
The dealer guy says the anti theft stuff does not keep the starter motor from turning. I have seen claims on the internet in both directions. I really don't know who to believe. It doesn't really say in the owners manual.
Now it starts, but I don't trust it. Using the bad neutral switch logic, I tried to find the bad spot where it won't let the car start, and I could not.
Should I just spend the $100.00 on a starter? and what ever on an ignition switch?
Jim
09-27-2011, 10:51 AM
#7734
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Worcester, MA
Posts: 4,011
My daughters car will not start. We think it has to do with the security system.
we have been through all the door locking/unlocking trunk opening, windows up, till we just don't know what to do any more.
From the outside I can see the alarm light flashing. I put the key in the door and turn it to the left, and the light goes out. Turn it to the right to unlock the door and it's still out. As soon as I open the door, the light starts flashing again. When I turn the ignition switch to on, all the dash lights come on . When I turn it to the start position, nothing happens. No noise, no cranking.
Nothing.
The battery in not dead, the terminals are clean. I have taken them off, and put them back on, no change.
I have to work and she needs to go to school.
I can't afford to have it towed to a dealership and pay their rates to fix stuff.
Jim
we have been through all the door locking/unlocking trunk opening, windows up, till we just don't know what to do any more.
From the outside I can see the alarm light flashing. I put the key in the door and turn it to the left, and the light goes out. Turn it to the right to unlock the door and it's still out. As soon as I open the door, the light starts flashing again. When I turn the ignition switch to on, all the dash lights come on . When I turn it to the start position, nothing happens. No noise, no cranking.
Nothing.
The battery in not dead, the terminals are clean. I have taken them off, and put them back on, no change.
I have to work and she needs to go to school.
I can't afford to have it towed to a dealership and pay their rates to fix stuff.
Jim
Try jumping the starter by touching a wire to the positive battery terminal and the starter itself. There is a 12 guage wire soldered onto the starter. Touch the wire to that solder spot. If the starter is good, the starter will crank. If the key is in the "ON" position, the car should start. Be warned, There will be some sparks from jumping the starter, dont worry its normal tho.
If the starter is bad, replace the starter.
If the starter is good, then a component on the starting circuit is bad.
Starting circuit consists of the ignition switch, P/N switch, inhibitor relay, theft relay.
I am willing to bet the wires are all good.
Its either the starter or one of the relays.
Last edited by cashoit; 09-27-2011 at 10:59 AM.
09-27-2011, 10:58 AM
#7735
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Worcester, MA
Posts: 4,011
1. I talked to an independent shop, and the guy agrees with you all. He thinks it's the starter.
2. The wife talked to a dealership guy. He thinks it's related to the neutral safety switch. Maybe slop in the shifter cable?
3. My son came by and went back through all the security re-setting steps.
Car would not start. He shifted it out of P, and back in, then it started!
The dealer guy says the anti theft stuff does not keep the starter motor from turning. I have seen claims on the internet in both directions. I really don't know who to believe. It doesn't really say in the owners manual.
Now it starts, but I don't trust it. Using the bad neutral switch logic, I tried to find the bad spot where it won't let the car start, and I could not.
Should I just spend the $100.00 on a starter? and what ever on an ignition switch?
Jim
2. The wife talked to a dealership guy. He thinks it's related to the neutral safety switch. Maybe slop in the shifter cable?
3. My son came by and went back through all the security re-setting steps.
Car would not start. He shifted it out of P, and back in, then it started!
The dealer guy says the anti theft stuff does not keep the starter motor from turning. I have seen claims on the internet in both directions. I really don't know who to believe. It doesn't really say in the owners manual.
Now it starts, but I don't trust it. Using the bad neutral switch logic, I tried to find the bad spot where it won't let the car start, and I could not.
Should I just spend the $100.00 on a starter? and what ever on an ignition switch?
Jim
you will need a multimeter to test electrical.
It prolly is a bad P/N switch. There is a ground for the P/N switch located near the shifter, make sure its nice and clean and secure
P/N switch is COMPLETELY different from ignition switch. Take the starter to AutoZone for testing.
09-27-2011, 12:37 PM
#7736
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 3
The dealer guy is a retard. How can the anti-theft NOT be integrated into starting the car lol. If that was true, what woudl be the point of anti theft lol. Power goes through the anti theft relay to the inhibitor relay.
you will need a multimeter to test electrical.
It prolly is a bad P/N switch. There is a ground for the P/N switch located near the shifter, make sure its nice and clean and secure
P/N switch is COMPLETELY different from ignition switch. Take the starter to AutoZone for testing.
you will need a multimeter to test electrical.
It prolly is a bad P/N switch. There is a ground for the P/N switch located near the shifter, make sure its nice and clean and secure
P/N switch is COMPLETELY different from ignition switch. Take the starter to AutoZone for testing.
Yea that's what I thought too.
Where is the anti theft relay? I don't see anything labeled like that.
Where is the P/N switch?
Jim
09-27-2011, 06:44 PM
#7737
The P/N safety switch is located on the front of the transmission behind the shift cable. Like cashiot said give it a cleaning then resecure it. That sounds like your problem.
Last edited by jholley; 09-27-2011 at 06:58 PM.
09-27-2011, 09:15 PM
#7738
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/YELLO...ht_1802wt_1084
anyone ever try these struts? not trying to be cheap but i am getting an eibach pro kit soon and would like some better than stock struts, thanks for any info guys i searched here and never saw these mentioned anywhere lol
anyone ever try these struts? not trying to be cheap but i am getting an eibach pro kit soon and would like some better than stock struts, thanks for any info guys i searched here and never saw these mentioned anywhere lol
09-27-2011, 09:54 PM
#7739
My daughters car will not start. We think it has to do with the security system.
we have been through all the door locking/unlocking trunk opening, windows up, till we just don't know what to do any more.
From the outside I can see the alarm light flashing. I put the key in the door and turn it to the left, and the light goes out. Turn it to the right to unlock the door and it's still out. As soon as I open the door, the light starts flashing again. When I turn the ignition switch to on, all the dash lights come on . When I turn it to the start position, nothing happens. No noise, no cranking.
Nothing.
The battery in not dead, the terminals are clean. I have taken them off, and put them back on, no change.
I have to work and she needs to go to school.
I can't afford to have it towed to a dealership and pay their rates to fix stuff.
Jim
we have been through all the door locking/unlocking trunk opening, windows up, till we just don't know what to do any more.
From the outside I can see the alarm light flashing. I put the key in the door and turn it to the left, and the light goes out. Turn it to the right to unlock the door and it's still out. As soon as I open the door, the light starts flashing again. When I turn the ignition switch to on, all the dash lights come on . When I turn it to the start position, nothing happens. No noise, no cranking.
Nothing.
The battery in not dead, the terminals are clean. I have taken them off, and put them back on, no change.
I have to work and she needs to go to school.
I can't afford to have it towed to a dealership and pay their rates to fix stuff.
Jim
First is the security light. When you unlock the car and get in, the light should not be blinking. If it is, the car is saying someone is trying to steal me and the BCM (Body Control Module) energizes the Theft Warning relay (people will call this the anti-theft relay) and the car won't crank because the Inhibitor relay now cannot energize. The Inhibitor relay is used to complete the circuit between the ignition swich and the starter solenoid.
The Theft warning relay is in the the plastic box by the power steering oil reservoir. It is on the fender side, 2nd from the firewall.
Then you have the situation where you moved the shifter and the car started. If the theft system was activated, this would make no difference. If the theft system is not active, then moving the shift lever points a finger at the park neutral switch. Nissan calls the park neutral switch the Inhibitor Switch and is designed to allow the Inhibitor relay to energize when in the park or neutral positions. The Inhibitor switch is on the transmission just above the oil pan.
The FSM (Factory service Manual) has an adjustment procedure for the Inhibitor switch and the shifter cable that connects to it. It is on pages 126 & 127 of the AT section (Automatic Transaxle). There is also a chart on page 105 that shows what pin numbers should have continuity in each of the gear/switch positions.
If you don't have a FSM, you can download it from either of these 2 web sites:
http://boredmder.com/FSMs/Nissan/Maxima/
http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/maxima/
The file named fwd.pdf is the "cover page" file, the starting point.
The file named idx.pdf is the alphabetical index file for the entire manual.
Each section also has its own index but it is not alphabetical.
09-27-2011, 10:06 PM
#7740
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/YELLO...ht_1802wt_1084
anyone ever try these struts? not trying to be cheap but i am getting an eibach pro kit soon and would like some better than stock struts, thanks for any info guys i searched here and never saw these mentioned anywhere lol
anyone ever try these struts? not trying to be cheap but i am getting an eibach pro kit soon and would like some better than stock struts, thanks for any info guys i searched here and never saw these mentioned anywhere lol
09-27-2011, 11:03 PM
#7741
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 8
any one one in NY/NJ area with a 4th gen max or i30
i just got a 98 i30 119k miles automatic
having a few issues
after i bought the car ses light went on ...pulled codes p0133 in multiples place 5 of the paces gave me that code
PO133 O2 Sensor Circuit Slow Response (Bank 1 Sensor 1
1 auto repair shop gave me a knoc sensor code...but the guy came back with the codes written didnt see it with my own eyes
had a week to pass inspection so i put this guranteed pass emissions spray in my fuel tank ....1 day later the cel light went off (and i passed emmisions) ...been off for 5 days until today it came back on after re fueling 91 premium
things to know
previous owner only used regular fuel
needs rear rotors
occasionally squeeks upon start up for 1-2 seconds ..every 4 out of 10 start ups
car shakes at the steering occasionally
60+ steering and pedal a little more virbation
got a oil change last week coming from the blackest of all black oil
i got an oil change and filter
today in ny it rained and i went to turn my car on the oil light flckered for half a second as i went to start it up...didnt come on or stay on
should i replace the heated oxygen sensor asap??
also my Maf sensor is madeby unisa jecs (is this after market) does the maf sensor need to be replaced??
i need a real mechanic in the nj /ny area one who is not gonna cut my throat like a dealer and these other shops but if any one could give insight on my situation now i would appreciate any feedback...
i can also do a video of me starting the car up and under the hood so you guys could hear or see under the hood.
i just got a 98 i30 119k miles automatic
having a few issues
after i bought the car ses light went on ...pulled codes p0133 in multiples place 5 of the paces gave me that code
PO133 O2 Sensor Circuit Slow Response (Bank 1 Sensor 1
1 auto repair shop gave me a knoc sensor code...but the guy came back with the codes written didnt see it with my own eyes
had a week to pass inspection so i put this guranteed pass emissions spray in my fuel tank ....1 day later the cel light went off (and i passed emmisions) ...been off for 5 days until today it came back on after re fueling 91 premium
things to know
previous owner only used regular fuel
needs rear rotors
occasionally squeeks upon start up for 1-2 seconds ..every 4 out of 10 start ups
car shakes at the steering occasionally
60+ steering and pedal a little more virbation
got a oil change last week coming from the blackest of all black oil
i got an oil change and filter
today in ny it rained and i went to turn my car on the oil light flckered for half a second as i went to start it up...didnt come on or stay on
should i replace the heated oxygen sensor asap??
also my Maf sensor is madeby unisa jecs (is this after market) does the maf sensor need to be replaced??
i need a real mechanic in the nj /ny area one who is not gonna cut my throat like a dealer and these other shops but if any one could give insight on my situation now i would appreciate any feedback...
i can also do a video of me starting the car up and under the hood so you guys could hear or see under the hood.
09-28-2011, 08:22 AM
#7742
any one one in NY/NJ area with a 4th gen max or i30
i just got a 98 i30 119k miles automatic
having a few issues
after i bought the car ses light went on ...pulled codes p0133 in multiples place 5 of the paces gave me that code
PO133 O2 Sensor Circuit Slow Response (Bank 1 Sensor 1
1 auto repair shop gave me a knoc sensor code...but the guy came back with the codes written didnt see it with my own eyes
had a week to pass inspection so i put this guranteed pass emissions spray in my fuel tank ....1 day later the cel light went off (and i passed emmisions) ...been off for 5 days until today it came back on after re fueling 91 premium
things to know
previous owner only used regular fuel
needs rear rotors
occasionally squeeks upon start up for 1-2 seconds ..every 4 out of 10 start ups
car shakes at the steering occasionally
60+ steering and pedal a little more virbation
got a oil change last week coming from the blackest of all black oil
i got an oil change and filter
today in ny it rained and i went to turn my car on the oil light flckered for half a second as i went to start it up...didnt come on or stay on
should i replace the heated oxygen sensor asap??
also my Maf sensor is madeby unisa jecs (is this after market) does the maf sensor need to be replaced??
i need a real mechanic in the nj /ny area one who is not gonna cut my throat like a dealer and these other shops but if any one could give insight on my situation now i would appreciate any feedback...
i can also do a video of me starting the car up and under the hood so you guys could hear or see under the hood.
i just got a 98 i30 119k miles automatic
having a few issues
after i bought the car ses light went on ...pulled codes p0133 in multiples place 5 of the paces gave me that code
PO133 O2 Sensor Circuit Slow Response (Bank 1 Sensor 1
1 auto repair shop gave me a knoc sensor code...but the guy came back with the codes written didnt see it with my own eyes
had a week to pass inspection so i put this guranteed pass emissions spray in my fuel tank ....1 day later the cel light went off (and i passed emmisions) ...been off for 5 days until today it came back on after re fueling 91 premium
things to know
previous owner only used regular fuel
needs rear rotors
occasionally squeeks upon start up for 1-2 seconds ..every 4 out of 10 start ups
car shakes at the steering occasionally
60+ steering and pedal a little more virbation
got a oil change last week coming from the blackest of all black oil
i got an oil change and filter
today in ny it rained and i went to turn my car on the oil light flckered for half a second as i went to start it up...didnt come on or stay on
should i replace the heated oxygen sensor asap??
also my Maf sensor is madeby unisa jecs (is this after market) does the maf sensor need to be replaced??
i need a real mechanic in the nj /ny area one who is not gonna cut my throat like a dealer and these other shops but if any one could give insight on my situation now i would appreciate any feedback...
i can also do a video of me starting the car up and under the hood so you guys could hear or see under the hood.
The knock sensor code likes to show up with other codes, so wait until until the P0133 code is fixed and see if the knock sensor code goes away.
The oil light flickering could be caused by the oil filter draining out while the engine is off. Oil filters are built with a valve inside them to prevent this, but sometimes they don't work and the filter drains. Then when you start the car, it takes a second or two to re-fill the filter and the oil light will come on briefly.
The MAF sensor is an after market one. As long as it's working and not causing a check engine light, leave it alone.
09-28-2011, 09:41 AM
#7743
Hello All, I´m new here and I have a lot of questions about my car I bought it recently and I need to know all the details abuot it, my car is a 4th gen 1999 Maxima, and i want to change the trans fliud, but i don´t know which fluid is the right for this, it has 92k miles on it! Thanks in advance for the answer, I live in Monterrey, Mexico, and other question about appearance where can I get the Kevlo Led taillights?
09-28-2011, 10:28 AM
#7744
Hello All, I´m new here and I have a lot of questions about my car I bought it recently and I need to know all the details abuot it, my car is a 4th gen 1999 Maxima, and i want to change the trans fliud, but i don´t know which fluid is the right for this, it has 92k miles on it! Thanks in advance for the answer, I live in Monterrey, Mexico, and other question about appearance where can I get the Kevlo Led taillights?
You can pm Kevlo and ask him. http://forums.maxima.org/member.php?u=1218
Click on the send message button just below his name in the top left corner.
If you want to download a FSM (Factory Service Manual) you can get it fron either of these websites:
http://boredmder.com/FSMs/Nissan/Maxima/
http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/maxima/
The file named fwd.pdf is the "cover page" file, the starting point.
The file named idx.pdf is the alphabetical index file.
I cleaned fuel system with chevron, seafoam & changed fuel filter.
09-28-2011, 04:44 PM
#7746
Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 39
All doors are hard to close
I've a 4th Gen A32. It appears that all of my doors are hard to close. But they close properly when one of the windows are open. I have a feeling that an exhaust vent is clogged/closed. Any idea where is the vent located? Thanks!
09-28-2011, 05:59 PM
#7747
Do you off the heat a/c system? try leaving the controls set for outside air and then close the door. Maybe that will help.
09-28-2011, 07:29 PM
#7748
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 8
If the P0133 keeps coming back, then you should replace the O2 sensor. Also, when you search for codes, make sure you get the info from a Nissan site, not a Ford site. Not all codes mean the same thing on every brand of car. You could spend hundreds of $$$ replacing the wrong part and not fixing your problem. You were lucky, this one is the same.
The knock sensor code likes to show up with other codes, so wait until until the P0133 code is fixed and see if the knock sensor code goes away.
The oil light flickering could be caused by the oil filter draining out while the engine is off. Oil filters are built with a valve inside them to prevent this, but sometimes they don't work and the filter drains. Then when you start the car, it takes a second or two to re-fill the filter and the oil light will come on briefly.
The MAF sensor is an after market one. As long as it's working and not causing a check engine light, leave it alone.
The knock sensor code likes to show up with other codes, so wait until until the P0133 code is fixed and see if the knock sensor code goes away.
The oil light flickering could be caused by the oil filter draining out while the engine is off. Oil filters are built with a valve inside them to prevent this, but sometimes they don't work and the filter drains. Then when you start the car, it takes a second or two to re-fill the filter and the oil light will come on briefly.
The MAF sensor is an after market one. As long as it's working and not causing a check engine light, leave it alone.
yea sorry i have the code from inf/nissan just seen ford has the same code and pulled it off the web real quick..
are there any good sites for reaosnable priced sensors?? that you would recommend how about the shaking and vibrating? wheel alignemnt or maybe new suspension?
09-28-2011, 10:13 PM
#7749
If you want Nissan parts, try http://www.nissanpartszone.com/
The shaking could be wheel alignment, but it could be that the tires need to balanced. Sometimes tires need to be rebalanced when they are 50 - 75% worn. Suspension rarely causes shaking.
09-29-2011, 02:10 AM
#7750
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 7
I have quite the dilemma on my hands !!
So i've had a 1997 gle sitting in the driveway/garage for about 2 years. I just brung it back to life the other day. Needs a new alternator & a caliper was frozen. I'm going to take it to the dealership tomorrow to see if i can get the alternator fixed (recall).
Any suggestions on how to do so? I havent searched yet, but i will be in a couple of minutes.
The real dilemma is that there is some body damage on the car, front bumper driver's side is smashed in, bumper is junk. I'd say bumper/headlight/fender would be replaced & it'd most likely look perfectly fine. I'm from Chicago && this car hasn't been driven much in the winter here, but now there is some rust starting to show, which was never there before.
Should i have this addressed & repaired (by someone on craigslist) or should i just leave it as is & beat the **** out of it for what it's worth? Worth it? What would you do?
This is a dilemma because i only paid 150$ for the car. I figured if i drop about 1 - 2 grand into it (bodywork), it'd kinda level out? If that makes sense.
it has about 159,000 && the car is mechanically sound, i just have to update all the routine mait & replace some things that'd need some attention. It's really just the cosmetic side that i'm stumped on.
Any input would be appreciated, thanks.
So i've had a 1997 gle sitting in the driveway/garage for about 2 years. I just brung it back to life the other day. Needs a new alternator & a caliper was frozen. I'm going to take it to the dealership tomorrow to see if i can get the alternator fixed (recall).
Any suggestions on how to do so? I havent searched yet, but i will be in a couple of minutes.
The real dilemma is that there is some body damage on the car, front bumper driver's side is smashed in, bumper is junk. I'd say bumper/headlight/fender would be replaced & it'd most likely look perfectly fine. I'm from Chicago && this car hasn't been driven much in the winter here, but now there is some rust starting to show, which was never there before.
Should i have this addressed & repaired (by someone on craigslist) or should i just leave it as is & beat the **** out of it for what it's worth? Worth it? What would you do?
This is a dilemma because i only paid 150$ for the car. I figured if i drop about 1 - 2 grand into it (bodywork), it'd kinda level out? If that makes sense.
it has about 159,000 && the car is mechanically sound, i just have to update all the routine mait & replace some things that'd need some attention. It's really just the cosmetic side that i'm stumped on.
Any input would be appreciated, thanks.
09-29-2011, 09:07 AM
#7751
I have quite the dilemma on my hands !!
So i've had a 1997 gle sitting in the driveway/garage for about 2 years. I just brung it back to life the other day. Needs a new alternator & a caliper was frozen. I'm going to take it to the dealership tomorrow to see if i can get the alternator fixed (recall).
Any suggestions on how to do so? I havent searched yet, but i will be in a couple of minutes.
The real dilemma is that there is some body damage on the car, front bumper driver's side is smashed in, bumper is junk. I'd say bumper/headlight/fender would be replaced & it'd most likely look perfectly fine. I'm from Chicago && this car hasn't been driven much in the winter here, but now there is some rust starting to show, which was never there before.
Should i have this addressed & repaired (by someone on craigslist) or should i just leave it as is & beat the **** out of it for what it's worth? Worth it? What would you do?
This is a dilemma because i only paid 150$ for the car. I figured if i drop about 1 - 2 grand into it (bodywork), it'd kinda level out? If that makes sense.
it has about 159,000 && the car is mechanically sound, i just have to update all the routine mait & replace some things that'd need some attention. It's really just the cosmetic side that i'm stumped on.
Any input would be appreciated, thanks.
So i've had a 1997 gle sitting in the driveway/garage for about 2 years. I just brung it back to life the other day. Needs a new alternator & a caliper was frozen. I'm going to take it to the dealership tomorrow to see if i can get the alternator fixed (recall).
Any suggestions on how to do so? I havent searched yet, but i will be in a couple of minutes.
The real dilemma is that there is some body damage on the car, front bumper driver's side is smashed in, bumper is junk. I'd say bumper/headlight/fender would be replaced & it'd most likely look perfectly fine. I'm from Chicago && this car hasn't been driven much in the winter here, but now there is some rust starting to show, which was never there before.
Should i have this addressed & repaired (by someone on craigslist) or should i just leave it as is & beat the **** out of it for what it's worth? Worth it? What would you do?
This is a dilemma because i only paid 150$ for the car. I figured if i drop about 1 - 2 grand into it (bodywork), it'd kinda level out? If that makes sense.
it has about 159,000 && the car is mechanically sound, i just have to update all the routine mait & replace some things that'd need some attention. It's really just the cosmetic side that i'm stumped on.
Any input would be appreciated, thanks.
It's you car - what do you want it to look like? Do you want a short term daily driver that you can beat into the ground and send to the junkyard? If so, make it drivable and that's it. You only paid $150. If it lasts only a year, you got a good deal out of it.
But if you don't like driving around in a ratty old beater, then fix it up. Then later on, you can sell it and maybe even make money on it. One thing to look at is the lower radiator crossmember support. It supports the front of the engine and has a nasty habit of rusting out.
Who you get to do the body work is important if you care about how it looks. Craigslist is a dangerous thing. You have no idea how good the person is and there are a lot of people advertising on Craigslist who don't know which way to point a spray gun. Get references, look at cars he has worked on (other than his). You can go to an area that has a lot of used car lots and talk to the body shops in that area. I did that. Went down the alleys behind the lots and found a guy that ran a small body shop out of a garage. Did good work and charged less than half of most places.
09-29-2011, 11:23 AM
#7752
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 8
hey dennis thanks you have been a big help...unfortunately today i discovered some more underlying problems..was doing a job next to a auto repair shop and decided to talk to the guy in there because he had a 98 max gle on his lift......earlier in the morning i put fuel in 91 premium
about 1 hour later i asked the guy about the sensor and he said he would run a check for me since we are working with his buddy next door... we hooked up the obii device and 3 new codes came out ...
the original P0133(air fuel ratio) af sensor 1 circuit slow response
probable causes were noted as
lean a/f ratio fuel system faulty
large vcauum leak on engine
faulty maf sensor
or faulty af sensor
those were the 4 probable causes noted
then the other 2 codes
p1448
canister vent control vale open
probable causes
failed canister vent solnoid
saturated evap canister
or failed fuel tank pressure sensor
then p0138
heated oxygen sensor bank 1 sensor 2 )ho2s12)
probable causes noted
rich a/f ratio
blocked exhaust
short circut
i couldnt get proper full on diagnoses besides codes because it was gonna run me $120
im just on edge with this vehicle ...the person who sold it to me ..promised there was no problems or anything...2 weeks in to it im full of new engine lights...
im hoping this is not a huge $$ fix
but i also have a feeling its something with my fuel system now..
because this light came on first time for me 1 day after fuel
then 2nd time again when i put gas in...
i know i have to get the stuff fixed and im a novice with cars but i will save up to fix it i need a car to get to school and work..
if you have any ideas i would really appreciate it.
about 1 hour later i asked the guy about the sensor and he said he would run a check for me since we are working with his buddy next door... we hooked up the obii device and 3 new codes came out ...
the original P0133(air fuel ratio) af sensor 1 circuit slow response
probable causes were noted as
lean a/f ratio fuel system faulty
large vcauum leak on engine
faulty maf sensor
or faulty af sensor
those were the 4 probable causes noted
then the other 2 codes
p1448
canister vent control vale open
probable causes
failed canister vent solnoid
saturated evap canister
or failed fuel tank pressure sensor
then p0138
heated oxygen sensor bank 1 sensor 2 )ho2s12)
probable causes noted
rich a/f ratio
blocked exhaust
short circut
i couldnt get proper full on diagnoses besides codes because it was gonna run me $120
im just on edge with this vehicle ...the person who sold it to me ..promised there was no problems or anything...2 weeks in to it im full of new engine lights...
im hoping this is not a huge $$ fix
but i also have a feeling its something with my fuel system now..
because this light came on first time for me 1 day after fuel
then 2nd time again when i put gas in...
i know i have to get the stuff fixed and im a novice with cars but i will save up to fix it i need a car to get to school and work..
if you have any ideas i would really appreciate it.
09-29-2011, 11:38 AM
#7753
98 Maxima cruise break pedal switch
Thanks Can you tell me where I find this switch and how hard it is to change?
A common problem with the cruise control that prevents the cruise from working is the brake pedal. There is a switch that operates when you step on the brake pedal that is designed to turn off the cruise. What happens is that Nissan used a plastic "bumper" to operate the switch and this bumper is now drying up and falling off from age.
The alignment problem probably will need something replaced, tie rod end, control arm bushing. Again, age is catching up with our cars. Take the car to a place that specializes in suspension, where they know what to look for.
Things to check or do would be an auto trans oil change, engine coolant flush, new spark plugs, engine oil change unless you know when they were last done.
The alignment problem probably will need something replaced, tie rod end, control arm bushing. Again, age is catching up with our cars. Take the car to a place that specializes in suspension, where they know what to look for.
Things to check or do would be an auto trans oil change, engine coolant flush, new spark plugs, engine oil change unless you know when they were last done.
09-29-2011, 01:00 PM
#7754
http://www.courtesyparts.com/46512ma...-p-134045.html
You are going to have to lay on the floor of the car and look up along the brake pedal. You will see a flat piece of metal bar welded to the brake pedal like a letter t. The plastic bumper goes in this bar. You will see 2 switches touching this bar. One switch is for the brake lights and the other is for the cruise control. If you look closely between the switch and the brake pedal, you will see the plastic bumper, at least on the one side which will be the brake light switch. If I remember right, I had to take the switch out to get enough room to install the plastic bumper.
Some people have epoxied a dime onto the T bar instead of getting a plastic bumper. Which ever way you go, make sure that the brake pedal is not being stopped by the switch. That will eventually break the switch. The switch is adjustable if you encounter this. My cruise control bumper cracked and fell out like so many others. I went to the dealer and got one, but procrastenated and didn't put it in right away. About 3 weeks later the bumper for my brake lights cracked and fell out and my brake lights were on all the time. At least I had the part on hand to fix it right away. I still need to fix my cruise control.
09-29-2011, 01:49 PM
#7755
hey dennis thanks you have been a big help...unfortunately today i discovered some more underlying problems..was doing a job next to a auto repair shop and decided to talk to the guy in there because he had a 98 max gle on his lift......earlier in the morning i put fuel in 91 premium
about 1 hour later i asked the guy about the sensor and he said he would run a check for me since we are working with his buddy next door... we hooked up the obii device and 3 new codes came out ...
the original P0133(air fuel ratio) af sensor 1 circuit slow response
probable causes were noted as
lean a/f ratio fuel system faulty
large vcauum leak on engine
faulty maf sensor
or faulty af sensor
those were the 4 probable causes noted
then the other 2 codes
p1448
canister vent control vale open
probable causes
failed canister vent solnoid
saturated evap canister
or failed fuel tank pressure sensor
then p0138
heated oxygen sensor bank 1 sensor 2 )ho2s12)
probable causes noted
rich a/f ratio
blocked exhaust
short circut
i couldnt get proper full on diagnoses besides codes because it was gonna run me $120
im just on edge with this vehicle ...the person who sold it to me ..promised there was no problems or anything...2 weeks in to it im full of new engine lights...
im hoping this is not a huge $$ fix
but i also have a feeling its something with my fuel system now..
because this light came on first time for me 1 day after fuel
then 2nd time again when i put gas in...
i know i have to get the stuff fixed and im a novice with cars but i will save up to fix it i need a car to get to school and work..
if you have any ideas i would really appreciate it.
about 1 hour later i asked the guy about the sensor and he said he would run a check for me since we are working with his buddy next door... we hooked up the obii device and 3 new codes came out ...
the original P0133(air fuel ratio) af sensor 1 circuit slow response
probable causes were noted as
lean a/f ratio fuel system faulty
large vcauum leak on engine
faulty maf sensor
or faulty af sensor
those were the 4 probable causes noted
then the other 2 codes
p1448
canister vent control vale open
probable causes
failed canister vent solnoid
saturated evap canister
or failed fuel tank pressure sensor
then p0138
heated oxygen sensor bank 1 sensor 2 )ho2s12)
probable causes noted
rich a/f ratio
blocked exhaust
short circut
i couldnt get proper full on diagnoses besides codes because it was gonna run me $120
im just on edge with this vehicle ...the person who sold it to me ..promised there was no problems or anything...2 weeks in to it im full of new engine lights...
im hoping this is not a huge $$ fix
but i also have a feeling its something with my fuel system now..
because this light came on first time for me 1 day after fuel
then 2nd time again when i put gas in...
i know i have to get the stuff fixed and im a novice with cars but i will save up to fix it i need a car to get to school and work..
if you have any ideas i would really appreciate it.
P0138
The maximum voltage from the sensor is not reached to the
specified voltage. (bad gramer is from the manual, not mine.)
Harness or connectors (The sensor circuit is open or shorted.)
Rear heated oxygen sensor
Fuel pressure
Injectors
Intake air leaks
Check for vacuum leaks but it could be the O2 sensor is bad.
And most likely the P0133 code is also a bad O2 sensor.
O2 sensors aren't exactly cheap, they tend to cost over $100 dollars. I don't know who makes the ones Nissan uses, but Bosch is a good brand.
The P1448 could be a bad gas cap. If the gas cap doesn't seal, the car can't create a pressure in the tank. After you drive the car, if you take the gas cap off, you should hear a "shushing" sound as the air comes out of the tank. I'm thinking about this because you said you got the codes after buying gas. Check the rubber O-ring on the cap that it isn't damaged. When you look at the bottom of the cap there is an air valve right in the middle. You should not be able to blow through this. But the P1448 code talks about the EVAP canister vent control valve. This is located in the rear of the car, attached to the underside behind the driver side rear wheel opening. This valve is facing the tire. It's held on by 2 bolts, so take it off and do a quick test on it. Jumper 12 volts to where the wire harness plugged in and see if you can blow through it. If you can, then the valve is good and something else is the problem.
Last edited by DennisMik; 09-29-2011 at 01:51 PM.
09-29-2011, 05:22 PM
#7756
09-29-2011, 07:01 PM
#7757
If it is an automatic transmission, uses Dexron type oil. If it is a manual transmission, use an oil that meets API GL-4 SAE 80W-90 standards.
You can pm Kevlo and ask him. http://forums.maxima.org/member.php?u=1218
Click on the send message button just below his name in the top left corner.
If you want to download a FSM (Factory Service Manual) you can get it fron either of these websites:
http://boredmder.com/FSMs/Nissan/Maxima/
http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/maxima/
The file named fwd.pdf is the "cover page" file, the starting point.
The file named idx.pdf is the alphabetical index file.
You can pm Kevlo and ask him. http://forums.maxima.org/member.php?u=1218
Click on the send message button just below his name in the top left corner.
If you want to download a FSM (Factory Service Manual) you can get it fron either of these websites:
http://boredmder.com/FSMs/Nissan/Maxima/
http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/maxima/
The file named fwd.pdf is the "cover page" file, the starting point.
The file named idx.pdf is the alphabetical index file.
09-29-2011, 08:01 PM
#7758
Did you want to drive to Texas and buy the accessories in Texas? If the answer is yes, I do not think I can help you. I live by Dallas and the cities that are closest to you, like Laredo, McAllen or Brownsville, well, you live closer to them than I do. Monterrey is about 150 miles from Laredo. Dallas is about 450 miles from Laredo. I'm sorry but I do not think that I can help you.
09-29-2011, 09:41 PM
#7759
Did you want to drive to Texas and buy the accessories in Texas? If the answer is yes, I do not think I can help you. I live by Dallas and the cities that are closest to you, like Laredo, McAllen or Brownsville, well, you live closer to them than I do. Monterrey is about 150 miles from Laredo. Dallas is about 450 miles from Laredo. I'm sorry but I do not think that I can help you.
09-30-2011, 06:53 AM
#7760
Sorry but I am confused. If the plastic bumper turns off the cruise when you press the brake pedal, how does this effect the cruise not turning on in the first place? Not asking because I don't believe you, I am asking so I can learn how this works and to gain knowledge.
It's not the switch that I think may need to be replaced, it's the plastic bumper that presses against the switch.
http://www.courtesyparts.com/46512ma...-p-134045.html
You are going to have to lay on the floor of the car and look up along the brake pedal. You will see a flat piece of metal bar welded to the brake pedal like a letter t. The plastic bumper goes in this bar. You will see 2 switches touching this bar. One switch is for the brake lights and the other is for the cruise control. If you look closely between the switch and the brake pedal, you will see the plastic bumper, at least on the one side which will be the brake light switch. If I remember right, I had to take the switch out to get enough room to install the plastic bumper.
Some people have epoxied a dime onto the T bar instead of getting a plastic bumper. Which ever way you go, make sure that the brake pedal is not being stopped by the switch. That will eventually break the switch. The switch is adjustable if you encounter this. My cruise control bumper cracked and fell out like so many others. I went to the dealer and got one, but procrastenated and didn't put it in right away. About 3 weeks later the bumper for my brake lights cracked and fell out and my brake lights were on all the time. At least I had the part on hand to fix it right away. I still need to fix my cruise control.
http://www.courtesyparts.com/46512ma...-p-134045.html
You are going to have to lay on the floor of the car and look up along the brake pedal. You will see a flat piece of metal bar welded to the brake pedal like a letter t. The plastic bumper goes in this bar. You will see 2 switches touching this bar. One switch is for the brake lights and the other is for the cruise control. If you look closely between the switch and the brake pedal, you will see the plastic bumper, at least on the one side which will be the brake light switch. If I remember right, I had to take the switch out to get enough room to install the plastic bumper.
Some people have epoxied a dime onto the T bar instead of getting a plastic bumper. Which ever way you go, make sure that the brake pedal is not being stopped by the switch. That will eventually break the switch. The switch is adjustable if you encounter this. My cruise control bumper cracked and fell out like so many others. I went to the dealer and got one, but procrastenated and didn't put it in right away. About 3 weeks later the bumper for my brake lights cracked and fell out and my brake lights were on all the time. At least I had the part on hand to fix it right away. I still need to fix my cruise control.