brunos

Anyone have any idea why my accelerator pedal seems to have higher resistance (like a stiffer hard feeling)when I step on it on certain days while on other times the pedal seems to have less resistance where I can easily press on it easier. I'm mainly talking about pressing and stepping on the pedal and the pedals resistance from being depressed. It doesnt seem to correlate with the temperature either because it happens in both cold and warm weather temperatures. My brake pedal is fine too its only my accelerator pedal. Any ideas?

metalgod3082

Year: 1999
Make: Nissan
Model: Maxima
Engine Size: 3.0L
Refrigerant Type: R134a
Ambient Temp: 80
Pressure Low: 50
Pressure High: 150
Background info: My car is a 1999 Nissan Maxima. A/C would work intermittently. It seemed to work fine at night time or on cloudy days (When I say work I mean it blows ICE cold air). During the day I could sometimes get it to work when I was stopped at stop lights by turning off the A/C and back on several times but then when I would start driving it would start blowing ambient air again. AC compressor always engages.

I brought my car to the shop to have them diagnose it. They told me my TXV (Expansion Valve) was stuck open. So I told them to discharge the refrigerant and I would fix it myself. Replaced the expansion valve and receiver/dryer. Added all new O-rings and lubricated them first. Pulled a vacuum on the system for 45 minutes which held fine. And recharged using 2 cans of refrigerant with UV dye (12.5 ounce cans).

My car is rated for 25 oz so should be just about right. Also added 2 ounces pag 46 oil to receiver/dryer. This was at night that I recharged my system. Drove it for a few miles and blew ice cold air. Seemed to be even colder than before. So I'm thinking that fixed it. Well drove it today it blows ambient air again. When I checked the pressures last night the Low pressure was around 50 psi and the high side was around 150. Any ideas what is going on?

metalgod3082

Ok did a few more tests today. Rechecked the pressures, I think I had the pressures incorrect the first time as I didnt let it sit for a little to stabalize. I'm getting 68 for the low and 125 for the high. I let it sit like that on max A/C for 10 minutes and it stayed the same. I tried misting the condenser with the garden hose and all the pressures stayed the same. I checked the inside temp with a meat thermometer and its blowing really cold at 48 degrees. The thing is its a cool and cloudy day out today so It seems to be working fine but I know once I start driving and it becomes a little bit hotter outside it will stop working. Those pressures dont seem right do they? Do you think my compressor is shot?

LKW

Okay, my first post as a newbie, just registered. I have been reading the forums since December when I bought a '95 SE for my kids to drive. The forums have been very helpful so far and have one question that I have not seen any threads on:
The power steering has more power assist than my other vehicles (2002 Explorer, 2006 Jetta) - does anyone know if you can reduce the power assist by adjusting or replacing any part of the power steering system?

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

Not by design. You might end up with that by accident when you buy some non-Nissan made pump or steering rack, but it won't be designed that way.

LKW

Thanks. Has anyone experimented with larger pulleys to reduce the rpm. I know this has been done to reduce acessory power when racing, etc. so curious if this technique would work. Not sure if a larger pulley would even fit in the back corner of the engine.

LKW

One more problem with my '95 Maxima. At highway speeds, the odometer stops rolling. As far as I have researched, it is driven by the speed sensor in the transmission, not a cable. The manuals available don't have any information on the guage cluster, probably since it is not intended to be a repairable item. It will continue as normal on the next start. I have loosened the speed sensor and removed/connected the wiring again to ensure it is not a loose wire, but still shows up occasionally. I don't have any MIL lights on for speed sensor failure. Any ideas?

LKW

Same thing when I bought my '95, the previous owner probably didn't know it had the security system and remote door locks. I found mine on ebay, search for the following: FCC ID A269ZUA078. They may include the second line on the fob: ISC 700K1359. Programmed like a charm. Make sure your fob battery is good - this foiled me programming my Explorer fobs.

LKW

It sounds like one of the sensors is not reading correctly so the alarm won't arm. Try testing the switches in each door frame (they have a rubber boot over them) that they are being depressed sufficiently and move in/out freely. Also, check the hood switch near the firewall on driver side (I think that is were it is).

FallenOne

iTrader: (17)

ive asked before with no response. anyone know if the rear VCG from a 2K is the same as the rear VCG for the 95-99?

Vegas_s12

Hey guys I got a 1996 maxima and I have this problem where between 500-2500 rpms the car sputters real bad and doesn't want to go anywhere and just recently it's getting worse like through the whole rev range. Now this only happens when the car is warm (reg op temp) when it's cold it runs fine till it warms up. Also when sitting idle in drive the rpms are real low like 500rpms and it sputters and drops but doesn't die but if I put it in park or nuetral it goes away.
Now I went to autozone and got that diagnostic done and 2 codes came up one for the coolant temp sensor which I replaced about 2 weeks ago and another code which I don't understand....

P0323:
1). Ignition low resolution circut intermttent condition
2). Poor electrical connection
3). an engine misfire will set this code.
4). Failed ignition control module.
5). Moisture or corrosion within distibuter.

I understand 2-5 but I can't wrap my head around number 1 does anybody have any clue to what that is? Also with all these where should I start. The car hasn't had a tune up since I bought it which was about 2 months ago would that have anything to do with it I assume the tune up would fix the missfire issue if that is indeed the case. Any help would be greatly appreciated

schmellyfart

iTrader: (46)

Rear valve cover gasket? Yes, they are the same.

Vegas_s12

anybody??

Official

I'm having hesitating problems while the car is in the 1500 to 2000k rpm range, while stopped in drive it surges. Also I can hear a slight popping sound (sorta like a misfire of some sort) coming from the intake area when it hesitates. I have cleaned the the TB,MAF,IACV,changed sparkplugs to NGK v-power, and used some fuel injector cleaner. I'm leaning towards coil packs but not sure. any help would be greatly appreciated thank you

Vegas_s12

Atleast I'm not the only one with this problem

mdliber

iTrader: (1)

i would agree with the coil packs, i had all of mine replaced after this was going on with my car

Official

I've searched the 4th gen forums and from what I can gather there are more then a few people who have this issue, but there is many different answers which makes it harder to figure out what the actual problem is. Especially without a check engine light

Official

Thank you I will be looking into the coil packs next

DrivenToTheMAX

OK, here is a pamperred 95 Max. Never had any real issues with it that I couldn't fix. Recently I had my check engine light come on. Went down to autozone and they read a code P1335 (Crankshaft Position Sensor). I went ahead and replaced both POS and REF, just in case.
I disconected the batteries negetive terminal and changed out the two sensors. Buttoned everything up and reconnected the battery and notice that the check engine light was still on. So I manually reset by ways of the ECU. Then a week later. Same code. So I took the sensors off again and had them replace them. Swapped them and still having the same problem.
One of my symptoms was that the car would not start at all. Then by changing the sensors I was able to get the car started. Still starting pretty hard.
I'm stumped. Any suggestions

s vier

Guys I need some guidance before I go broke:

214k 95' GLE that was meticulously maintained by previous original owner. I bought in Jan and it was driving great. I pulled to a stop, shut it off, came out 30 minutes later and it is driving like garbage. Low revs, shaking engine, no power. I limp it home a change out two injectors and a coil pack on the front bank. First injector I swapped filled the rail/cylinder with fuel. I sucked it out and put it back together.

Same issue.

I drove it to autozone (almost) and it died while going down a hill. Would only start if I gave it gas and would die if I put it in gear.

I replaced the CPS. Nothing.

I replaced the MAF. Nothing

Any ideas?

I need help pretty urgently since I have two cars that are down and I just bought a fixer upper house that I need to work on day and night for the next few weeks.

Thanks in advance.

(I searched for a few days here already and it seems like there are several different fixes for problems like mine)

nm97max

Hey gang, I have been using this site for quite awhile, great info available by searching. Joined today so I could express my opinion on a failed part. I purchased and installed a new Bosch water pump in January as the old one started weeping.

Yesterday the timing chain was rattling, on further inspection I determined that either an accessory or the water pump was going out. I drove a bit more and started to lose coolant quickly. Got it home without getting hot, took it apart tonight and the water pump is bad. It gets worse though, the engine oil is full of water. The pump failed so bad that the ball bearings of the sealed bearing unit dropped out, and I think they ended up in the timing cover.

Needless to say, I do not recommend Bosch water pumps as of now. This was a new (not rebuilt) unit.

Has anyone had something similar happen? I do not know how long the water was in the oil. I am very concerned that the coolant has destroyed my cylinders or bearings.

sorry for a long first post, but I hope to save someone trouble down the road if the are considering this water pump.

PepeJns

Be careful with those ebay coils, if you decide to go that route. As others in this forum have experienced, after replacing my coils with ebay packs I had a check engine light that never went away with an 0201 code. I'd stick with the Hitachis.

PepeJns

Be careful S Vier, be careful.

I had issues similar to yours. Was leaking gasoline out exhaust--replaced all the injectors. Was left with 0606 misfire and replaced all ignition coils, codes didn't go away and was left with grinding noise on cold starts. Today my engine locked up and blew a hole through the block.

Now trying to figure out what to do, rebuild or get a used engine Good luck and becareful.

v3rtex7740

Okay, my car has been driving weird for awhile now and I can't see why so I want to clean my TB/IACV/MAF, and probably my PCV valve. I'm reading the write ups, but I've never done anything like this so I wanted to know:

1.) Those gaskets, should I be using that sealant stuff with it? or do it just put it in by itself?

2.) The coolant hoses on the TB, I thought about clamping them, but I think I'd crack them. How do I prevent getting coolant everywhere when I unplug them?

3.) Is it really as simple as the pictures and steps make it out to be? I have a '99 cali spec I30 with 169k now. I'm worried something will be different, or maybe the advanced age of all the rubber and plastic under my hood is going to cause me great headaches.

4.) Why is there all that crusty foam stuff on the very end of my intake tube, right where it meets the grill?

tattedmax69

Considering the time length it is hard to tell when the water entered the system. If your able to check it yourself I would check the cylinder heads first. My boy had the same problem and we knew it was serious when we could smell the coolant from the exhaust lol.

tattedmax69

I recently had a new headliner put in and ever since the sun roof wont angle itself no matter how many times i press the button.. I noticed that the brown wire goin to the button has been slightly frayed. Wondering if this is the problem?

Vegas_s12

I know your pain on that on that one. I really hate these types of threads because nobody answers right away I really need this fixed as it is my daily and I need it to get to work and get my kids back and forth to school

Vegas_s12

????

tattedmax69

Ok vegas to answer your ?s for 1 it means you have a problem with your ignition coil or a bad connection surrounding the coil....For # 4 that can easily be tested at your local autozone just ask them to test your ignition control module......But the best solution is take it to your mechanic and see what they say it shouldnt cost you anythin to have the problem looked at. Hopefully that helps.

Official

Thank you I'm definitely staying away from ebay when it comes to the coils. Does anyone know what could happend if the gold plate that is held on with three screws on the IACV is missing? Would that small gold plate cause any kind of hesitation?

FatalException

Question

I have a 98 maxima and apparently the wheel of the A/C compressor began making a sort of winding noise depending on how many RPM's I'm doing, is it going to seize up or something? The air conditioning works just fine, it makes a different noise when its on, its actually quieter when its on. But when its off it sounds like a toy race car revving up. How long do I have before something bad happens?

tattedmax69

I need to know where the flasher relay on a 96 maxima is cuz my hazards and turn signals went out and i know its not the fuses i checked any help?

Vegas_s12

Thank you sir for the help I will check those when I get home

nm97max

I am hoping it is not too bad, I had just changed the oil and maybe had 20 miles on it when it failed. In fact after starting up from the oil change I heard a bit of noise and convinced myself that the belt tensioner was making a little noise. Unfortunately I was wrong.

My plan is to put it back together, fill it with oil, run it until it warms up and change the oil again. If it knocks or rattles too bad, I'll probably be in the hunt for a new engine.

tattedmax69

I hope the best for you man and look on the bright side if you have to get a new engine why not go with a VQ35 swap engine cost about the same and so will labor.....plus your pull more ponies with the upgraded engine

cashoit

Vegas,

THe car sputtering is a classic MAF issue. If the car hesitates to rev above 2500 rppm then your MAF is on its way out. FSM would have told u this. Unforunately, a malfunctioning MAF will not throw a CEL. However, ur other issues may be related.

Buy some MAF spray cleaner and spray the wire element inside the MAF. Read the how-tos to see how to do this.

See sig

cashoit

Did u replace water pump o-rings as well? Unless the pump was cracked the only way it could leak into engine is if the o-rings were damaged, worn, or not re-installed.

cashoit

It will be fine, jus make sure the catback comes with a resonator. It will keep the exhaust not much quieter. If it doesnt come with a resonator, buy a glasspack and install it where the stock resonator used to be, right after the cat.

Also, look under the car and see whether or not u need a test pipe. Depending on your car, u may need a small pipe w/ a flange directly downstream of the cat to install the catback.

Honestly, it will be cheaper and better performance wise to buy a straight thru bullet muffler w/ a silencer. I have one and its epic. No losses down low and better flow up top, plus a mean bassy exhaust not. only cost me 20 bucks ebay.

cashoit

I dont think so. I have a 00vi installation guide and they all say u wd need a 2k rear valve cover to work with 2k UIM and LIM

cashoit

Any codes?? PCM or ECU might have blew