DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

Any part that moves could be squeaking, so there are no doubt a lot of possibilities. Any part that is in a bushing such as the sway bar could squeak.

Can you press on the fender and bounce the car to get a noise? That would help to isolate the problem.

Also, do not use WD40. It is not an oil. It is chemicals that will penetrate rust and corrosion and then evaporate, leaving you where you started. Use Liquid wrench or similar.

skintigh

Good call on the test. I thought it was coming from everywhere, but only the front driver side squeaks. It only takes the lightest pressure with one hand to make it squeak.

2DAMAX98

Hello, I have been in the Maxima game for a long time just havent posted in about 15 years. Anyways just bout a 99 and it cranks over but no spark and the security light comes on while cranking. The previous owner said the computer went bad. I see this car does have key sense so my question is what ECU do I need to get? I take is a nonkey sense computer will not work. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

If the security light is on while cranking, then the NATS security system has been triggered. When this happens, the ECU does not fire the fuel injectors. You can spray starting fluid and the engine will catch and run as long as you are spraying because NATS does not kill the spark. If you don't have spark, you have 2 problems.

The ECU probably is OK because the NATS security has its own modules. They are in the steering wheel by the ignition switch. Also, the 1999 was the first year to have the chipped key and it was a bit flakey. If you read the posts about this, the 99 will blow the programming and needs to have the keys re-programmed and then the car starts.

Without having the Nissan Consult diagnostic tool, anything you do/replace is guesswork.

2DAMAX98

This was kind of a funny story. A friend buy this Maxima after alittle perseding on my part. The owner said a Nissan dealer told him the ECM was bad but not before putting in all new injectors, coil packs and crank sensors. I had a spare ECM for a 98 so figured we could get it cheap, through in the ECM and off he goes. The car was listed as a 98 and we got it for $300 but once we towed it home I realized it was a 99 with chip in key and that was probably what was preventing it from starting. After alittle checking I know I had fuel pressure, signal to all the injectors and all the coil packs so why wasnt it starting. Well if I have signal coming from the ECM I would still need ground to complete the circuit and make things work. I found that the grounds on the front of the intake were more then loose. I tightened then and it fired right up after sitting for over a year, SCORE!!! Car runs and drives great with ice cold AC. This is going to be his 16 yo daughters first car. Couldnt be more thrilled. Thanks for your help.

2DAMAX98

I know there have been a million 3.5 swap posts but I havent been able to find any saying if a 09-14 VQ35 can be used. All I see are guys using older VQ35 but most of those posts were created long before that. So does anyone know or can direct me in the right direction. I have a chance to get a VQ35 out of a 2010 Murano with only 30,000 miles for $500, so if it will work I really want to get it.

2DAMAX98

One more question, I have a 95 Maxima that the sunroof trim/seal is basically gone. I see that you cant buy just the trim. I also see that the glass, including the trim/seal have different part numbers for 95-96 and the 97-99. Does anyone know what the difference is between the two? Can I use a newer glass on an older one? Plus help as the 95-96 sunroof glass seems to be quite rear around here. Thanks.

emjee

Hey folks! My 4th gen 1995 Maxima came without a spare tire! Will other models and years bolt up to my hubs? If so, which ones? Also, I just had to replace one of the coils on the front bank. The old one had male tangs that were just a tad offset, while the new one had the tangs in the center of the recess. I was able to plug the new one in, but I didnt force it on so it is not on there securely. It does seem to run ok and no longer has the dead miss. Any help on these would be greatly appreciated Thanks!

Fakie J Farkerton

iTrader: (51)

I would just search for a local junkyard with 4th gen or an Infiniti I30, but any 5 lug Nissan/Infiniti should fit fine

The wheel info is: 5 lug 4.5 inch or 114.3mm High Positive Offset according to the internet

As for the coil pack that you replaced, I would try to make sure it snapped back together, but that's me..tape at the least

2DAMAX98

Anyone????? I really need to get out of newdy jail so I can get some of these questions answered!!!!

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

The 95/96 bodies are a different size from the 97/98/99, so I would have to say that the glass is a different size. But I don't know for sure.

The newbie 15 post thing was removed several years ago. It seems that the warning messages are still there, but the restriction is gone. You can post in the main section.

CeeyaFast

Laugh at me later, but I need to change the small 5/16(?) heater hose (bypass, possibly), approx. 7 in. long underneath the 3/4 in. diameter heater hose running to the firewall, next to the manifold. The hose clamp requires pliers to squeeze the "tabs" together to loosen the hose, but difficult to get a firm grip, and is so old it is embedded in the hose. Someone must know a trick to these clamps, or a way to break them, because I am having difficulty just getting to the tabs. I need my car! Suggestions?

Thanks

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

I wish I knew of a "trick" but it seems there isn't one. All you can do is squeeze those tabs together and try rotating it from side to side. Maybe if you got a different shaped pliers, like a long, thin needle nose, maybe curved, you would have better luck.

Part of what and how you do it depends on whether you are trying to save and reuse the hose.

uk21

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

Yes they will.

someguy96maxima

Hi, new member here, I have a 96 MAXIMA GXE and looking to get new ignition coils, boots, and plugs. I am not sure what boots to get. I am planning on getting the Hitachi coils part numbers: IGC0012 & IGC0015 from Rockauto due to them being a reasonable price but when looking at a few of the different boots that I am interested in getting from Rockauto they say either use w/ Hanshin coil or use w/ Mitsubishi coil.
For example:
"NGK 58994 Info
FitsRight Bank (Cyls. 1,3,5); Use w/Mitsubishi Coil
OrLeft Bank (Cyls. 2,4,6); Use w/Mitsubishi Coil"
I assume this means these particular boots are to be used only with mitsubishi coils. None of the boots on Rockauto say use with Hitachi coils so which boots will work with the Hitachi coils??? Am I missing something? Am I having a stupid moment? Is this not kind of weird...
The Beck/Arnley boots do say multi-coil system; does that mean they will work with different types/brands of coils; specifically will they work with Hitachi coils?
Anyone know? Thoughts?

Thank you!

Tony Two-Tone

If I'm not mistaken, they're interchangeable. Someone else may chime in with something different.

Kashik

It's been a while since I've been here, but I recently had some work done to my 95 Maxima. Had the hub and bearing replaced recently on the front passenger side. Since then I've had a squeak/squeal come and go fairly randomly from that area of the car.

It tends to occur when driving straight or turning slightly right. Yanking the steering wheel to the left and right seems to cause it to readjust sometimes and go away. Turning left or hard right it goes away. I can be going fairly straight down the road and it starts, sometimes making the noise slightly. Other times getting very loud like there's something getting worse. Again jolting the steering wheel seems to make it stop.

It sounds like some type of metal on metal. I've taken a look at the area to see if anything could be rubbing. Made sure the dust sheild wasn't rubbing, break pads are good, caliper isn't sticking and is positioned solid, rotor looks good, made sure the ends of the lock pin for the castle nut hadn't bent in a way to were it rubbed something. I've had all these problems before so I'm pretty confident I no how they sound and what to look for. I couldn't really see anything that may have been rubbing, and the noise it's making is different than what I've heard before.

With the wheel still off however, putting the car in neutral and spinning that side(front passenger) it sounds like there's a small squeak/squeal coming and going up in there where the CV axle meets the engine.

Thoughts? I know enough but I certainly don't know everything.

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

It is possible that the center support bearing on the axle is bad. Without crawling under the car and listening by the center support and the transmission, it is just a guess.

someguy96maxima

Found this online and thought it might be relevant to your situation: "Last fall I had to go into the front end of an F-150. Put in brand new seals after replacing the worn bearings. Got the same type of squeak you did, annoyed the hell out of me. Looked back over my work and couldn't find anything. Sprayed silicone spray on the wheel seal and it shut up. This was on a brand new seal, really threw me off and was the only one I have ever seen or heard of doing this. So it is possible.

I don't have the seal in front of me, but some of these seals have 2 lips on them. One holds the oil in and one keeps the dust out so it can't cut the lip of the inner. That outer lip could get dry and possibly make your noise."
from: https://www.ericthecarguy.com/kunena...the-conclusion

Best of luck!

RockyAnonymous

Why am I getting these water marks on the photos when I am on certain topics. It is annoying and I'm not sure how to get rid of it.

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

The watermark is there because photobucket is being a big a$$hole and sticking their name in your face so that you will use their service. They are too stupid to realize that this is having the opposite effect. The only way to get rid of it is to pay them a monthly fee or dump photobucket and use someone else.

Jason Chrest

Test drove (then purchased) a 1998 Maxima...

When I first got into the car and cranked it, the idle was a little rough but not absolutely horrible. When I put it in drive it almost felt like it was about to die and had very little power initially. I got it onto the road (thankfully no traffic) and hit the gas, it was almost like it wasn't reacting but it slowly accelerated. Once it got to about 30mph or so it came to life and ran so perfect and smooth. When I slowed down to turn around, once it got under 10 it started running rough but accelerated a little better to get back to the 30mph range and then again was running great. I gunned it after getting it over 30 and it came to life like one would expect. I do not recall seeing a CEL as I wasn't really considering buying it, but they dropped the price to a point that was hard to turn down (heck I could sell the tires and a few components to make my money back within a week) and my son really wanted it so he could work on it.

The car will be delivered this evening and I'll check for codes on it, but wanted to reach out and see if anyone has any knowledge of what may be causing this. I'm thinking camshaft position sensor is the culprit, but might it be the CAT or ignition (coils/plugs) or even the throttle position sensor? If I'm replacing the CPS I'm going to order OEM... not sure if TPS should be oem or if aftermarket is ok for that part.

Thanks in advance!

Theresi Pardesi

My ex-coworker left the state and I inherited his vehicle for $600. He told me it's about $300 to fix it so it can pass smog.
Drove it around. Cabin smells of gas/exhaust & acceleration is weak. I can get it up to about 45mph, although it's sluggish. Eats gas like crazy. I got a sound driving - I don't remember what it was but it did make me laugh rememebering thos commercials where the customers sound out the issues to the mechanic. maybe it was like a roosterish noise. I'll have to check that tomorrow, and I don't remember where it was coming from. with the holidays here, I've got about 128 tabs open in my head. That's all I can think of right now.
I looked around the engine to see if any looks out of the ordinary with hoses/connections/unusual sounds (the engine sounds pretty good - nothing out of the ordinary besides the noise when driving mentioned above) and came to see this situation:
I looked down the area next to the battery/fuse box and was a little disturbed to see what appeared to me like a broken and extra part - like when a surgeon forgets the sponge in a patient.
Not knowing what that was, perhaps some air filter thing (please go easy on me, I don't know much but I end up fixing my stuff regardless), it took me a little bit but I realized it was supposed to be attached to what I guess is the bottom of the air intake duct which co-incidentally had a bunch of duct tape.
If this is not the problem causing my issues, let me know and I'll continue my efforts via reading the other threads on this situation,
I did see a lot already and under normal circumstances is pretty straightforward but this particular problem I am not finding my answer.
In all honesty, I have posted this here as a last resort because I know dumb questions are irritating and I'm cringing at my ignorance and posting.
It was getting dark so these pics are the best I could get. I couldn't reach in to check the part or attempt to reattach it because the engine was still hot.
Despite my lack of expertise, I have no issues going to Pick-n-Pull and getting parts and installing them.

Jason Chrest

Yeah that’s part of the air intake, you’ll want to fix that to get more air into the car.

almost sounds like a Mass Air Flow issue with the poorer performance and you’re probably in need of a vapor canister if you’re getting fuel fumes. Possible he deleted the vapor canister which can cause the fumes. The car I’m working on had it’s charcoal filter rupture and filled up many of the vapor components with charcoal pellets... which kept it from giving off the fuel smell but is still not a good thing.

Colette Koretsky

Does anyone know how to tell if the car is manual climate control besides looking at the harness?

So there is a guy who works on girls' cars and fixes them so that noone can fix them except him. I think I have figured out what he did, maybe. I think he put an auto climate control harness in my 98 maxima se and maybe it has manual climate control. I think because there is nothing on the harness that plugs into the air mix door motor or the mode door motor. There is a plug for the intake and the intake door works. There are two grey plugs and a white plug to go in the bcm and there are two grey plugs for the auto a/c control unit. There are no plugs for a manual unit. There is an aspirator. I will try to post pictures. But I don't know how to make the door work to keep the engine heat from coming inside. Everything else works except for the meter fuse blows alot and I have to put a new one in and jump the car. That['s probably because the whole dash is removed and the harness is exposed. I don't want to put it all back together until I fix the air flow problem. So any ideas would be appreciated.

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

Did you take the dash apart or did you buy the car like that?

The main difference between the auto climate control and manual controls is the control panel itself. All the ducts, the 3 motors (mode, air mix and recirculate) are the same, so both types of controls will have a wire harness connector going to those motors. Because the control panels are built to use different wire harness connectors from the other style, the under dash wire harness is different. But again, both styles will have connections for the air mix, mode and recirculate motors.

Both control panel types have 2 wire harness connectors on them. The manual style uses a 12 and a 16 pin connector. The auto style uses a 16 and a 20 pin connector.

So the easiest way to tell which type of climate control the car has is to look at the heater controls in the dash. The manual control has a slide lever for the temperature setting and a rotary switch for the fan speed. The auto controls are all push buttons and has a digital readout for the temperature setting.

Manual climate control panel:
(this fits 1995 through 1999)


Auto climate control panel 1995 through 1997:
(1998 & 1999 has an additional button on it)

darien87

Hey Folks,

I am new to Maxima's and Japanese cars in general. I've owned Mustangs pretty much my whole life. I just got a 2018 SV. I just want to do some basic suspension mods and perhaps an intake. I've seen Eibach Sport springs online and those seem good. I just want to stiffen up the ride and lower the car a LITTLE bit. I don't want to go so low that the car can't be properly aligned. Any recommendations for a basic set of sport springs, struts and shocks? I'm not looking to turn the SV into a race car. In fact my last set of HR race springs I had on my 07 GT Mustang were a bit too stiff for my taste. I just want to be able to take some spirited turns once in while.

In regards to the intake, again I was just thinking of something simple. Unfortuantely I see that the K&N and Stillen kits aren't CARB legal. What are people running for cold air intakes in California?

EDIT: Crap. I just realized this is the 4th gen forum. Sorry. I did a search on suspension upgrades and this is one of the threads that came up.
Please disregard.

LSJONLINE@YAHOO.COM

I get both sets of hazard light flashing when I program the key fob.. But the Key Fobs still don't work. They did work before. I disconnected the car battery and reconnected it and was able to get into the program mode only 1 time...It looked normal. But the FOBS did not work. I could not get into the programming mode again until I disconnected and reconnected the car battery again.. Any help is appreciated.

Colette Koretsky

Thank you for the info. I did get everything working by putting in doors from the auto air model. they have different plugs. So now the problem is with the A/C. I can get the compressor to turn on when I go to 4l on the self diagnosis, but that 's all. So now I wonder if I need another ECU. from a different car. Since I've established that this car had manual air and I put the harness for a car with auto air into it and so added all the other items that go along with it. exept for the ecu....

96Maximus_Prime

Hey guys...I'm new to Maxima.org but not new to maxima. I've had my maxima for a while and have done a few upgrades to prepare me for my final upgrade...the s/c. However, stillen has discontinued these. I've searched the forums and found parts list. It appears I may have to piece this the s/c setup part by part. Is there any other way to do this or am I on the right path?

2DAMAX98

Look in the for sale sections. They pop up every now and then. I just bought the whole setup from someone on there. Also check the stickys in the forced induction section. They have the full parts list on there along with a ton of other useful info.

TtheConqueror

I let my maxima sit for a bit over a year without starting it for various reasons (shame on me, I am aware). That said the other day I replaced the battery and the fuel filter and it started right up, no weird noises or anything. I was going to move onto an AC issue I have been having and thought I would connect a code reader to see if there was anything going on that wasn't obvious. After the code reader showed these three codes: P1490, P0446, and P1105 it would no longer crank. I've delved deep into various threads on this site and near as I can tell none of these individual codes would cause the engine to no longer crank, but I wanted to make sure by asking; did I miss something and are these my no crank issue or is something else getting in my way?

97nismax

Hey everyone,
I hope this is the right place to post this. I've been a member for over 10 years, but have just lurked to use the info I found on here. I just recently got my 3rd Maxima (1996, manual, if that matters) and I'm trying to fix a starting issue. In the process, I discovered the trans mount (under the air box by the battery) was missing one bolt. I have searched this forum, the fsm, Google, and auto parts stores (which are a joke) and haven't been successful in figuring out what I need. I left a message with my local dealer parts dept, and I'm waiting for them to call back. On a random diagram I found online, it says the part number is #11520AA but can't find one anywhere. I tried to take one out to compare at the parts store but I can't get them to budge.
Can anyone tell me what size/type I need?
Thank you in advance.

Karim

this thread may help you https://maxima.org/forums/all-motor/...ize-bolts.html

The Wizard

iTrader: (43)

To be sure, your best bet is to get one out, so it can be matched at the hardware store. Hit it with PB Blaster, tap it moderately with a hammer. Slightly tighten it, then loosen a little, then tighten a little, then loosen a little bit more etc. It should break loose. If you can hit it was some map gas w/o burning anything, try that too. Heat works wonders.

Alaskus

Just visit a local pull a part and grab the bolt.

Arizenheimer

Hi all, first off thanks for hosting this resource for guys like me who aren't mechanically inclined beyond fuel pump, brakes pad changes, etc.

My problem, she cranks but wouldn't start. I started to tackle it today and she actually started up for a split second then immediately died. This was the first thing resembling a start in about 8 or 9 tries and I haven't gotten anything like it in a couple tries after. My first thought was to check the easiest thing that it could be (but probably wasn't) a blockage in the airflow/filter. I checked and the filter was fine and no blockage. While I was checking around the area I noticed a connector unplugged. It goes pretty deep down in there and I havin the damndest time tracing where it connects to! It could be that it hasn't been connected for the whole almost year that I've owned her. After I post this I'm going to pull the tire and wheel well and see if I can see from that angle. I've attached a couple pictures. Thanks in advance for any help.

Tl;dr Where does this connector go and is it the reason she cranks but won't start?

Arizenheimer

Hi all, first off thanks for hosting this resource for guys like me who aren't mechanically inclined beyond fuel pump, brakes pad changes, etc.

My problem, she cranks but wouldn't start. I started to tackle it today and she actually started up for a split second then immediately died. This was the first thing resembling a start in about 8 or 9 tries and I haven't gotten anything like it in a couple tries after. My first thought was to check the easiest thing that it could be (but probably wasn't) a blockage in the airflow/filter. I checked and the filter was fine and no blockage. While I was checking around the area I noticed a connector unplugged. It goes pretty deep down in there and I havin the damndest time tracing where it connects to! It could be that it hasn't been connected for the whole almost year that I've owned her. After I post this I'm going to pull the tire and wheel well and see if I can see from that angle. I've attached a couple pictures. Thanks in advance for any help.

Tl;dr Where does this connector go and is it the reason she cranks but won't start?




Edit: View from underside with wheel pulled so you can see where it hangs down to.

Jmedina

Hey guys hopefully this thread is still pretty active. I want to know if anyone has swapped a 5A/T into a 4A/T 4th gen. Now obviously this won’t be plug and play I’m sure I’ll have to do plenty of wiring which is easy besides figuring out how each transmission works (shifting points and that kind of stuff). If anyone has done this and can point me in the right direction instead me having to stare at FSM’s for 3 weeks that would be much appreciated lmao. Also not looking to swap in a 5M/T, my other car is a 240 with a stiff *** clutch so I want to keep this one as a nice daily with a little bit more power 👍🏼.