So my car was stalling this morning (would not start). Found out it was my started that went bad, so i changed it. welll i had to really crank it for it to start after i changed it.

Here is the thing, after i finally got it started i noticed a check engine light. i cleared. However, i did not have it before.

Also, i am noticing my rpms jump faster now! car picks up quicker. why could this be?

 

Hello 4th gen owners I suppose I am indeed a "noob" and just wanted to introduce myself to fellow 4th gen drivers. I own a 96 SE. Look forward to becoming a full and active member

 

Hey guys, I've been looking for a new intake for my 4th gen 95 Maxima and after much research, I've come to a conclusion that there are no Short Ram Intakes that would fit or were actually made for it.

Now, odds are I'm probably wrong but I AM a newbie so cut me some slack.

 

Who knows. Why did you clear the codes without first checking them?

Yes, you are wrong. There are many aftermarket intakes made specifically for the A32, 90% of which are SRI. What 'research' did you do? Search '95 maxima intake' on eBay, the very first result is a short ram. Research done in 10 seconds.

If you're looking to get one for more power, don't bother. Stick with stock. If you're looking for sound, there you go.

 

Hey thanks for the input pmohr,

I was thinking 'research' as in the best brands, the do's and don'ts, etc etc.

Is there anything I can do to maximize my performance for my car?

Thanks!

 

99 coils are notorious for going bad. I wd check those first.

The security system has a few fuses that need to be checked along with the immobilizer. See if those are are in good working order.

 

to maximize performance on any NA car, u have to redo intake and exhaust. Once thats optimzed/upgraded u can see gains of 10-15 HP.

If u want to do more, then u can get a UDP and lightweight flywheel. If u really looking for power u can bypass AC compressor and do some weight reduction.

Get the secret weapon intake.

 

I checked my ignition coils last night with a multimeter using the 20k Ohm settings between pins 2 & 1 (as shown in the FSM). My numbers ranged from 7.23-7.14 (Left Bank) and between 6.31-6.13 (Right Bank). The FSM says that if there is any resistance then they are "OK" and not failing. Do these numbers represent a healthy resistance? Is there another way to test wheather they are good or not?

Thanks.

 

Also, how would one check to see if the TPS is good? I have the FSM but its a little confusing for me and was looking for some clarity (what setting on the Multimeter and the pins to read the resistance between). It says to warm the car up, but my car doesnt start up so anything to check this would help.

Thanks.

 

It doesnt say start the car you just need to turn the key to the on position. If you set the meter to volts it should read 5 volts. if you set it to ohms it should be 0.5 with the throttle closed and 4.0 open

 

The FSM specifies engine warm, as potentiometers like the TPS will have different readings at different temps. There's no need for the key to be on to test the TPS.

No, the signal wire shouldn't read 5v, it will vary based on throttle position...that's the point of the TPS. Also, you seem to be implying that the only relevant readings are closed throttle and WOT, which is false. You must check the entire sweep for glitches or dropouts, which generally will be seen in the most common throtle area (~15-20%).

 

What part are you reading?

 

The FSM. Step 1 in component inspection is clearly 'Start engine and warm it up sufficiently.'

What are you reading?

 

Oh lol, im reading from the HRM (Haynes Repair Manual)

 

Between which pins should I check for voltage? and can this be done without the car previously being warmed up?

 

Haynes is crap in comparison, don't even bother with it. Use the FSM and you'll have much better information.

 

You should have your 5v ref at pin 1 (IIRC wire color depends on year), ground at pin 3 (black), and signal at pin 2. You'd want to check resistance between 2 and 3, from fully closed to WOT. An analog ohmmeter is best for this, much easier to se any dropouts.

Yes, you can do it with the engine cool, just be aware the readings may change somewhat when warm.

If you're trying to rule out the TPS as causing your no-start, just unplug it.

 

lulz, thanks.

 

Question,
So I have a97 maxima. I turned left the other day and car stalled out.
It started right back up. I got home turned it off and no dome lights or
anything. Turned the key....nothin. Turned the key again moved shifter from start to neutral and lights came on started right up.
Today same thing it runs fine then turned the heat on and it almost stalled out doing 45. Turned heat right off and tried it again and it almost stalled every 3rd time I did that. Any help is appreciated, oh and when it almost stalls the airbag light comes on and the check engine light flickers and car interior lights dim out.

So driving about 45 again and it was like someone pulled the plug on the car. Shut off, and would not get any power, no interior-couldn't even turn on hazards in the middle of the two lane highway. About three minutes of turning the key, moving the shifter from park to nuetral the power just came back on. Made it home, volts reading on battery were 12.6-13.4 staying the same while the air/heat was on.

Help!!!Please!!

 

I have a 99 Maxima SE with 160k on it (had it since new). I am wondering if it’s worthwhile to change the spring/shocks for the car.

There are 2 symptoms. First, the rear of the vehicle is sagging, not significantly, but it’s noticeable even if the car is carrying no load (other than a 30lb hit receiver). If 2 adults sit in the back, then it really sags and I can feel the difference when I drive. (Only the rear sags, the front does not). The 2nd issue is, the car seems too bumpy, making long trip more tiring. I noticed this after driving a new car.

I would like to fix the rear sag, and make the ride more enjoyable if possible, without spending a fortune.

The car is 12 years old, and the parts (OEM, called a local Nissan dealer) along would be around $600+ (springs + shocks). The KBB value of the car is under 4k.

I called the shop I usually visit, and they said I only need the shocks, not the springs replaced. Quoted me $420 for a pair of shocks installed (KYB). Is this correct? My understanding from reading this forum is springs holds the car, while shocks dampens the bouncing. So if the car is sagging, I need to replace the springs right? The shocks should help with road bumps and to smooth out the ride, or is that also the spring?

How difficult is replacing the shocks/springs? I’ve done some simple work on the car, like installing the hitch receiver (re-connecting the muffler), replacing the spark plugs/coils, but nothing too serious (ie, don’t know how to replace break pads..)

Thanks!

 

There's really no set spec for those, at best you can check for the odd man out after testing all the coils the same way. Really, the best way is ramping them with a scope and an amp probe, but that's not an option for most.

Battery terminals clean and tight?

Some of the problems would seem related to a bad ignition switch, but the hazards are run straight from the battery.

Now you say that you were reading 12.6 at idle, engine running? Have the alternator tested (and check the belt tension), that charging level will barely keep the battery at full charge, much less power anything else.

Also have the battery tested, a bad battery can present with the same symptoms of a bad a alternator, as well as intermittent internal shorts causing crazy electrical issues.

Correct, ride height is set by the spring height (short of a frozen strut), and springs do sag over time. A good example of that is the older Ford Taurus, almost every single one you see is riding far too low in the rear.

You could (not with our setup, but for sake of argument) drive a car with springs and no struts/shocks, but the ride would be unbearable. The purpose of the shock absorber is exactly that, to dampen the compression/rebound forces of the springs.

A few funny videos that illustrate their purpose rather well:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ng3hb...eature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rCukk...eature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FyYvLZ2NjW4

The rear struts aren't that hard of a thing to replace, just 2 nuts and a bolt to swap them out. Probably 30 minutes per side for the inexperienced, assuming no . Weather permitting, I'll be doing a rear strut video hopefully next weekend (if you haven't already, check out the how-to videos listed in my sig; then you will know how to change brake pads).

Raybestos offers quick struts for the rear, check part number 717-1293, ~$150 at AZ. Sometimes it's nice to just have a complete bolt-in part.

 

Can someone please tell me what is this tapping noise. I am guessing it has to do with the timing chain tensioner but I am not sure.

Car is 96 I30 with 235K miles. The noise will go away after driving the car for 30 minutes or more.
Thanks in advance.

 

I have a 96 maxima se 5speed and sometimes as i drive, the car randomly stalls out. It has nothing to do with my driving skills. Whenever i'm in neutral at idle the car just shut off. I'm thinking i need to add more tension to my throttle cable or clean out my IAC. Any help?

 

whats the condition of your car.. maintenence wise?

 

Does the noise follow engine speed?

Any change if you turn the wheel, or turn the AC on?

Tried a stethoscope to pinpoint the location of the noise?

Any codes?

Tightening the throttle cable will have no effect on a stalling problem, the throttle can only close so much. When it's fully closed, the IACV takes over.

Pull and clean the TB and IACV, that's a start.

 

QUOTE=pmohr;8292924]
Any codes?

Tightening the throttle cable will have no effect on a stalling problem, the throttle can only close so much. When it's fully closed, the IACV takes over.

Pull and clean the TB and IACV, that's a start.[/QUOTE]
Its in pretty fair condition. Ill try cleaning the TB and IACV.

 

Wow...200 pages!

I am thinking of maybe dropping 2 to 3 grand on a 95-96 Maxima with between 150-175k miles on it. My questions...I read that the motor in this gen Max is basically bulletproof...

What should I be aware of and make a point to look at with these models? I know as with all models there are the general upkeep questions, but are there any glaring things one needs to pay special attention to in the early 4th gens?

Thanks

 

Greetings,

I have a '98 GLE with 100k miles. I purchased it one year ago, almost exactly, In that time, it has blown 3 stoplight switches. Well, the switch has been replaced twice, and my brake lights went out again within the last few days, so I assume it is the same problem.

[Possibly though not necessarily related - the clock illumination does not work properly. For the first several months I owned the car, the clock appeared completely dead. Then, one day, after it had been sitting in the sun in 90+ degree heat, I started the car and the clock illuminated. After it cut in and out several more times, I realized that applying pressure to the clock will usually make the LED work.]

Within the last few days, possibly at the same time that the brake lights went out, the clock time reset. I started the car, noticed the clock wasn't on, and pressed the glass to see the time. When it came on, it was not displaying the correct time. It has been fine since I reset it.

Also, I have the Bose audio with the retractable antenna. Since I bought the car, the antenna has been broken. When the radio would turn on or off, it would try to raise/lower for a second or two then stop. Within the last few days, it spends considerably more time attempting to raise/lower the antenna (to no avail), and the noise appears to be louder than it was before.

I can probably change out the switch myself, based on a post elsewhere in the forum. But I am curious if anyone has ideas on what electrical gremlins may be lurking. I am certainly not qualified to investigate more in-depth electrical issues, and I'd like to have a better sense of what's going on before taking it to a shop and paying through the nose for their diagnostic time...

Thanks.

 

The stop light switch may be a victim of improper installation. Make sure that the switch plunger still has a little play (or travel) left when the brake pedal is not depressed.

As for the clock, it is most likely suffering from cold solder connections. That was as big problem in the 3rd gen Maximas. Nissan claimed they fixed the soldering problem with the 4th gen, but not completely. The cold solder problem is usually at both ends of the power resistor on the clock printed circuit board. Someone that solders can look at it and tell you right away if you have cold solder problems.

As for your power antenna, if you aren't going to fix it, just unplug the antenna in the trunk. There is a thick nylon "string" in the antenna mast that moves the mast up & down. A part of it probably broke and now the motor gears are no longer connected to it so the motor runs for the default timeout.

 

Thanks, Dennis. That's very helpful. Just to clarify a few things, I have a couple of other questions.

If this were the case, would it have worked for a while then stopped? Are you suggesting that it just came out of alignment, and may not be broken, or that the improper installation caused it to cease functioning after a few months?

That makes sense, and was pretty much what I was figuring. My main concern, though, is that the actual time on the clock reset around the same time that the brake lights went out. Ordinarily, when the display goes out, the time remains accurate. So I'm curious whether there could be some short in the electrical system that would affect these two components. I tried looking at the FSM online, but the wiring diagrams made my head spin and I didn't have the time to really sit down and try to figure out if there are any common connections between the clock and brake lights.

Good to know - I will go ahead and unplug it.

 

Hey everyone, newbie checking in. I have a 98' that I want to hook up an alpine amp and sub into. Now I have removed the stereo and noticed there are no RCA plugs for the amp to plug into. So my two questions are:

1) How do I connect the RCAs to the stock deck?

2) How do I know where to wire the amp remote wire?\

Thanks! liking the site already! Very useful!

 

Which raises the next (obvious) question - how do I unplug it? After I parked at the Metro this morning, I popped the trunk and pulled down the cloth covering on the right side (the piece to which the jack cover affixes). There was an electrical box there, but it was labeled as being part of the remote keyless system. That box is mounted on a metal piece, with the antenna behind it. I reached back there and felt the antenna, but it appeared (by touch) as though the wiring coming out of it was taped up, and not attached via an easily removable connector. I gave it a tug nonetheless, but nothing happened. Consulting the FSM was no help.

 

It may be tough to get back there, but it can be unplugged just through the jack access panel without having to remove anything else. See my power antenna replacement video (link in sig) for exactly where the connector is.

IIRC it's on the upper left side of the motor, retainer clip facing out.

 

If there are no RCA's from the head unit I doubt you can connect an amp. Likewise if you cant wire the remote to turn your amps off.

 

Honestly it sounds like ignition switch to me or a bad alternator.

But cd be:
Rough idle: Rough running engine accompanied by check engine light may require revised powertrain control module. (1997)

Rough idle: Several problems (no-start, no A/C, rough running, etc.) can be traced to broken wires in the engine compartment where the harness bends near the right strut tower. (1995-97)

 

Get the monroe quick strut assembly. It combines the spring/strut and other components into a nice package and everything will be new nothing to worry about.

 

Check your IACV (Idle air control valve). Clean throttle body and maf

 

Is it a 5spd or auto? Check the tranny and make sure its not leaking. If it is leaking, walk away.m

Check lower radiator support for rusting.

make sure the car has plenty of power and no hesitation/stalling.

 

Yes this noise will increase when I accelerate but you cannot hear it above 35-40 MPH. I can hear it increase at idle when giving it some gas.
Does not increase with A/C on or off or while turning the steering wheel.

Have not tried to pinpoint the location but I will be contacting a local org member to help with this problem and to repair a few things on my car. I did not want to buy a stethoscope and possibly use it only once.

 

Its a lot harder if tryin to use the stock radio. There is a special harness u need that splices the speaker wires. And then i still think it wont really work/sound well.