[quote=cashoit;8254987]

If that dont work, remove the Anti-theft relay from the passenger side fuse box. TO start the car with the relay removed u will have to jump 2 of the contacts. Idk which ones and dont feel like lookin. You will need the FSM for this.

Sure,tell the internet how to jack our cars

 

Charge up the battery (or attach the jumper cables), then unlock the driver's door or the trunk with the key.

There is no valet switch on the factory security system.



Because bypassing a pitiful starter kill is a howto on 'jacking' a car. This doesn't power the ignition, disable the steering lock, or start the engine. It's a crap design starter kill, which is easily bypassed by just jumping the starter manually with any metal object.

Anyone who is intent on stealing an old Maxima will already know how to do so, it's actually quite easy. 45 seconds and a cordless drill is all it takes for a factory setup; been there, done that.

 

I have a starter problem with my recently purchased 1999 Nissan Maxima.

It wouldn't crank (only hearing clicking), ended up boosting the battery -it worked. Replaced the battery with a new one and everything was fine until I started using the defroster while I was driving. I noticed all other devices like power windows where starting to slow down. The digital clock light dimmed...etc.

When I shut off the car... same issue again. Constantly having to boost the battery.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

 

You need to have the charging system tested. It's likely that your other battery worked fine, but was just not being charged up.

 

ok, here goes
Have 98 maxima with 155,000 miles. I have been having a "rattle noise" near the frt of engine. From what I have read about it was a timing chain issue.
About 10,000 miles ago I bought a complete timing chain kit from Carquest and replace everything, sprockets, guides, etc

The engine still has a dam "rattle" at approx 2k to 3k rpms. But it only does it when the engine is under a load (driving)

If I just free rev the engine when the car is sitting I can not hear any noise.

Do the engines have any onther internal issues like maybe a wrist pin issue?

Any help would be appreciated
Thanks

 

yo man, if the rattle isnt as loud as literally a helicopter, i wdnt worry about it. And if the engine does blow, there are plenty of 3.0 VQs lying around.

What u may be hearing is valve noises tho.

 

i have a 97 maxima with the bose system and head unit, today seeing as how my tape player has been broken since i got the car i took out the head unit , removed the tape player and closed everything back up until i could get my hands on a soldering gun to attach an aux cord to what used to be the tape player unit, when reinstalling the complete head unit the plastic on the larger cord one of the clips on the side cracked , but i had no problem putting it in. after everything was said and done i went to turn my stereo back on and whenever i tap the dashboard theres a thundering static , almost comparable to that of a blown speaker, but i checked and none are blown. also i get this problem when playing cds, the few times it doesnt give me the CD ERR. if anyone could please help me with this itd be great. i know im knew here, but i plan to be here often if i can get some good help.
thanks

 

So you disassembled the radio, removed components, put it back together and now it's not working correctly?

Have you at least pulled it back out to recheck the harness connectors, make sure they're in place? Taken it apart to recheck whatever internal mods you've done?

1. It worked.
2. You messed with it.
3. It doesn't work now.

Your problem obviously lies somewhere with number two. Go for the obvious.

 

i have yet to take it back out, but i didnt really mod anything yet i just took the tape deck straight out, and i did notice as i was putting it back in i hooked up the connectors turned on the radio and had the static but when i moved the wires alittle and got them in just the right spot the static would disappear until that very small window of clear music would be gone again (kinda like when you over use your headphones and have to fiddle with the plug). im just unsure on whether its the harness or the unit itself.

 

No way to know until you pull it back out and have a look. Looking for bad solder joints on the pins going to the main PCB where the harness connectors plug in, a loose or pushed in terminal on the connector itself, a damaged wire, etc.

 

Man, so I'm getting both lower control arms, outer/inner tie-rod ends, axles, & sway bar end links replaced tomorrow & need to do the same with my struts/springs next month. I know nothing about struts & all that & was hoping someone could give a good setup that would reach the following goals...

Lower the car SLIGHTLY (Like an inch)
Give the car a Buick/Caddy-like ride (as much as possible)

Well, I guess that's it...was thinking about going with Monroe struts of some sort & just getting some Moog springs from RockAuto & taking them to Birmingham Springs & having them cut 'em

Help/Info from anyone?

 

Ill have to check all that out tommorow because I have a busy day today with work and other errands, but after driving around a little already today the static is worse when the car shakes from driving over bumps holes etc. So I'm guess what you're saying is probaly right and something is loose

 

Hi, I have a 1997 Nissan Maxima GLE and the Bose Rear Deck speakers went out so me and a friend were trying to mess with them and get them working again, but he ended up shorting the door speakers.

So now I'm replacing the whole sound system.

But I have a few questions to go that route, I know that the size of the speakers are 6.5" all the way around, but I was wondering if the rear deck speakers are the same type of speakers, or should I get different ones?

I've searched and haven't really been able to find anything specifically about what I'm asking, but what kind of speakers go in the rear deck? Are they subwoofers or what? I don't have much experience in this.

I'm also asking here, what's good speakers to buy and a good HU, so if anyone suggests something that's not too expensive but better quality I'll for sure be interested.

I'll post some links on products I was looking at purchasing.

Deck/HU:
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_158GT26...X-GT260MP.html

Wire Harness:
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_1207075...e-Harness.html


And here are the speakers for the door, which is my question if it would be good to put these in the rear deck? I'm willing to do that if it works.

http://www.amazon.com/Infinity-Refer...pr_product_top

Thanks for all the help if anyone provides additional information!

 

The best low budget drop is the tokico blue/H&R combo. THats what i got. drops the car 1.3 inch. With any drop the ride will be a bit harsher, but with the tokico/H&Rs its not bad (harsh) at all.


Do not Fawking cut springs. You only do that IF there are no lowering springs available for your car or if u REALLY tryin to be cheap.

Dont cheap out on suspension. You will end up paying more in the long run. Trust me.

EDIT:

Do a SEARCH for my name. I have a thread about my setup and all the additional stuff i bought for it.

 

all the links u posted will work perfectly.

the speakers are 6.5 front and rear. Just get full range speakers and be done with it.

Dont forget the antenna wire connection for the new HU.

 

okay so i finally found out what my issue was but somehow my thread was removed so im posting here. but does anyone have a right up on re setting the timing on the 4th gan vq30. my car had a bad WP and was replaced and a few weeks later died on me. i was getting no spark on none of the cyclinders and everyone kept telling me it was a issue with electrical. well i finally had time and checked a few things and popped off the timing cover and discovered the timing had jumped about 4 teeth. so my guess was right now i just have to figure out how to re set timing and probobly look into a new tensioner just to be on the safe side

 

Has anyone bought an aftermarket bumper or fender from ebay? Any news on the quality? Here are a couple of links to check out. http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Bumper-C...ht_1794wt_1139

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-FENDER-P...ht_1873wt_1139

Also how important is the front bumper impact absorber? Do I really need to replace it or will my car still drive and look ok without it?

 

The FSM is the best source you'll find for setting the timing. Failing that, you could check out the VQ35 hybrid swap threads, there are some pretty good timing pics in some of those.

I've gotten a pre-painted bumper off of eBay, typical aftermarket part fit (nowhere near exact fit, but relatively close enough to make it work), cheap enough that I didn't really care too much about it.

No, you don't need to replace or install the impact foam. You'll be regretting you didn't install it the next time you get into an accident, however; 'impact absorber' pretty much speaks for itself. The bumper will also flex more in the front, since there will be a large empty space where it should be. For $60 brand new from Nissan...why not replace it?

 

Hey everybody!!! someone knows how to contact Kevlo911 and get an answer from him?, I asked him about the led tail lights, I want it in may car, If he dont want to make it it´s ok, but i just want him to tell me some instructions to try to make it by myself, please if any knows him, help me!! or if he sell it I´m agree to pay.

 

dude PM him lol

 

Sup guys! Just got my black 98' painted, full lip (Need Rims, Intake), and I have a smaller cherry bomb where the glassspack is, Now I want to put another in place of the muffler. I Mean after the paint job I'm real low on money so I know it sounds cheap....because it is lol. So yea if I were to put a longer cherry bomb where the muffler is will I get a nice tastefull sound, or a mouth full of Rice LOL.

 

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D4b4fDvaFxk

doesnt sound horrible though

 

I have a 97 max with 160,000 and I want to change the rear wheel bearings, rock auto has only non abs hubs without the tone ring attached , my question is what is involved in switching over the abs tone rings from the old hubs onto the new ones?,is a press needed? I really dont want to shell out $150 each if I dont have to......thanks

 

A punch and a hammer works just fine for swapping those over.

 

So i am trying to fix code 0807. In the thread on the codes it has this:

The CPVCSV is easy to see and reach. It is located in the engine compartment, mounted to the top of the upper intake manifold. Notice the Vehicle Serial number stamped into the firewall. Put your finger on the third-from-last number. Move your finger three inches toward the radiator. That's the CPVCSV. It has one two-wire electrical connector and two vacuum hoses.

You may test the valve. This test procedure is performed with the engine off. Remove the electrical connector and both vacuum hoses. Fasten a length of clean rubber vacuum tubing to either nipple. Gently blow through the hose. The valve should be closed and it should be difficult or impossible to send air through the valve. Now use a pair of fused test leads to provide 12 volts to the electric terminals. The polarity doesn't matter. With the solenoid energized the valve should be open and it should be easy to send air through the valve.

I found the valve that is described and it has two hoses but the electrical connector has 6 wires, not two. I tried to test the valve as described and when i initially blew through the hose i could pass air through it easily so I guess this means the valve is open. I applied 12 volts to it and nothing happened, no change. So it sounds like it is stuck open. Is this possible/does this sound correct? Should I remove the valve and try and get it to work or buy a new one? Does anyone know the part number and price?

 

It sounds like you're looking at the canister purge volume control valve (CPVCV), not the canister purge control solenoid valve (CPCSV). Code P0443 (0807) relates to the CPCSV and the CPCV.

The CPVCV you're looking at:


The CPCSV and CPCV, respectively:


As you can see in the image, the CPCSV is tucked away underneath the engine control harness where it comes past the front cylinder head. There will be a MAP/BARO SV and the CPCSV, the CPCSV will be the closest to the engine.

 

i re-looked at the fsm, and kinda followed most of the steps because it was just specifically for remove and replace but i followed the steps and hopefully it is done right. I imagine as long as the rear chains and in the right spots and you line up each link to were it needs to be you cant really go wrong. the colored links and exactly the right amount of length aprt from each other and as long as your a TDC it should be fine... if im wrong someone chi,e in please.

 

Thanks for the help. Ok so i found both of the parts and pulled them out. On the CPCV i can blow air through one end and not through the other. So the air flow is one-way. I think that this is how it is supposed to operate so i dont think that is the problem. On the CPCSV i can blow air down through the top and out one of the bottom openings. Then if i apply twelve volts to it i here the solenoid click and i can then blow air through the top and out the other opening in the bottom. So i think this is working as well. Any suggestions on what to do next? I have to pass emissions and i am trying to figure out what is causing the code because i dont have the money to just start replacing parts of the evap system. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

 

Indeed, they both seem to be operating correctly. First thing I do with these EVAP issues is check the charcoal canister to see if it's starting to come apart. If it does, the system gets clogged up and has to be completely cleaned out.

Now the components seem to be okay, but that still doesn't rule out a problem with them. You still have to look at the control side. Running about 2000 RPM with the engine warm (no indication of vehicle speed being a factor), the ECU should command the CPCSV on. Pull the vac hose off of the CPCV, check for the presence of vacuum at that speed. If not, you then need to check for a good 12v source at the CPCSV harness on pin 2 (R/Y), and that the ECU is providing a ground on pin 1 (L/Y).

 

http://www.raceinspired.com/p-10433-...1995-1999.aspx

If I were to purchase this, it would replace my currently muffler too, right?

 

Yes, it's a cat-back; everything from the converter rearward. The muffler is the leftmost piece shown in the image.

 

Ok thanks man! I've looked at a few of these on youtube and they sound amazing, just pricey.

 

I promise I have searched and searched, but I cannot figure out what the issue is.... first a couple videos...

http://s688.photobucket.com/albums/v...114_110446.mp4

http://s688.photobucket.com/albums/v...114_111124.mp4

A little back story... I bought my 99 maxima limited with a bad engine; it had blown head gaskets and it had been sitting for some time. I had a good engine from a 2001 maxima sitting around, so i took that engine and swapped over the 99 intake manifold to it. I ended up changing the 8 pin plug that connects to the harness that runs down behind the power steering pump to the front CKPS; I'm wondering if this is where my problem is.

Anyway, my main issue is a very hard start. Quite often when cranking, the starter will "jam" or jolt and lock up for a second and then continue cranking. sometimes it does it repeatedly and sometimes it doesn't do it at all. I have verified that it isn't the starter because 1 - i have replaced it already; and 2 - when I unplug the cam position sensor, the engine will crank with no issues whatsoever; no jamming, jolting, or anything of the nature, but of course it wont start. Based on what i have read, it is acting as though there is some sort of electronic issue with the timing, but I do not know what is causing it.
The other issue is that once it is started, it has an intermittent rough idle issue. I'm not sure if this is due to old gas, or if there is another issue going on, but my main concern is the starting issue.

If I missed something in my searching, please point me to it and I will read it. If you need to know something and I left it out, please let me know. I appreciate any and all help as I need this issue resolved ASAP.

 

Why not keep the 00VI?

Sounds like the typical bad grounding through the bellhousing problem, try running a ground cable directly to the starter.

 

I wanna replace my cat conv with a glass pack straight pipe but I need to know what size the exhaust is after the flanges. Im going to be removing the cat and flanges together. My car is a 96 Maxima al stock with a hybrid modified airbox.

Reason I'm removing the cat is because recently I've been getting a rotten eg smell at high RPMs and really bad gas milage. Also at 80MPH I slam the gas and the car revs but doesn't go faster. I believe my cat is clogged and/or dead.

Thanks for any help.

 

i cant advocate deleting the cat. Not my style.

But any ebay test pipe will work.

Magnaflow cats not too expensive less than 100 bucks i think

 

Ended up bringing the Max to a local shop today. The exhaust that is on the car now is not the stock/oem exhaust. I was just going to have a test pipe made, but when they put the car on the lift, they discovered the whole exhaust had been REALLY butchered by the previous owner. The spot where the resonator is supposed to be is replaced with 1-3/4" piping... not even 2" piping. The cat was (badly/poorly) welded on and the O2 sensor that goes into the cat wasn't even in correctly.

They had to cut and replace about 60% of the exhaust. But, the owner only charged me $100 for everything. Can't complain. Don't have a cat anymore, but I do plan on buying a full performance exhaust before next summer.

 

Back again, Whats up with shops and coil overs?

I'm so new to the car scene so I just kind of call around a lot to see who does what.

I called up 2 auto shops and asked if they did suspension, they both said yes, and then I asked if they did lowering springs or coil overs and they both said no. So I said whatever I'm new to this I'm just calling the wrong shops. But when I asked they gave me these really weird reasons lol. They were like "We don't because........no we just don't.......sometimes when we try to do that things get.............its just not the right shop, we don't do that."


Sorry if I look like an idiot posting this but why did 2 shops basically give me the exact same response? As in, no real reason, but it sounded like they just had horrible experience doing it.

 

Ok. One quick question...

I really love the way the Maxima sounds without the cat/resonator. It kind of howls like a 350z but slightly different. My problem is it only really howls when I press the gas a little, and not when I'm just coasting/cruising. I'm not looking to be my neighbors alarm clock after work, but I would like to be heard a little bit. Like a stock 350z can be heard about 200-400 ft away, but a nice howling tone that can be heard by other people, not just in the car (similar to the Ferrari 360).

I was wondering if anyone knows a way to make these cars howl similar to a 350z (I know it will never sound the same). Someone told me to replace my stock muffler with a Thrush Turbo muffler or even a glasspack. Thoughts?