If u go to the shop with springs and struts they wont know the difference.

But TBH, i had my personal mech install mine. In MASS u cant lower more than 2". I only lowered mine 1.3". Check your state laws and make sure its legal.

 

The thrush is gonna be hella loud.

Get a mild tone muffler or u can try the glass pack.

I got a $20 ebay straight thru bullet muffler. Sounds good and nice flow

 

wassup guys, as you can see im new lol but anyways i been a maxima owner for a little over 4 months. the car is amazing i love it, its recent owner did a very poor job on maintaining it. It has just over 127k miles and i changed the brakes and everything was still stock lol. Anyways lately there's been a strong smell of gas when i get out of the car. I thought I'd be the gas cap so i got a new one. I also noticed that there;s a hissing sound under the car by the fuel pump. Could it be that my fuel pump is bad and i have a fuel leak? Is there anyway to diagnose this by myself cuz the guys at a shop are charging me $100 just to put it on the lift =l..any suggestion? thanks in advanced btw my name is oscar lol.

 

First, front brakes lasting 127k sounds more like good driving than bad maintenance.

The fuel pump won't 'hiss' when it's bad, not like you're describing. You need to take a look underneath and locate the source of the noise.

Is there any fuel dripping on the ground, or just the smell? Are there stains on the tank or any of the hoses? Throwing any codes?

Yes, you can diagnose this yourself, just get underneath the car.

 

no there's no leaking or anything, its mostly the smell and when i changed the brakes it was scrapping metal lol i had to change the rotors too lol. also its throwing 2 codes and the dude at auto zone told me it might be the emissions valve and something else imma go get the codes and post them..maybe itll be easier to find out what the problem really is

 

Yes, it'll likely be easier. Do you know what this 'emissions valves' control? Gas vapor...

 

idk he was talking some bs..he told me its my gas cap that's why my check engine light is on but i just bought a new one and then hes was talking about i gotta drive 100 miles until it goes away...anyways the codes it was throwing were p0450 and p0446

 

Does anyone know where I can find an OEM shift **** for my Maxima or do I need to search junk yards?

 

Junkyards. Classifieds. eBay. Dealer.

 

i spoke to someone in pepboys and they told me that on my 96 max u do the alignment on all 4 tires but where i got them done yesterday they had told me that on my car you dont do the rear tires. is this true?

 

The only thing that's factory adjustable (or intended from the factory to be adjustable) is the front toe. All you have to worry about is a front toe adjustment, there is no real '4 wheel alignment' available.

That being said, all angles (toe, caster, camber) are adjustable on all 4 wheels, given the motivation and ability to fabricate.

 

thanks. the guy at pepboys made it seem like i wasnt getting the work done right.

 

quick question..i've been riding out my max and i love it..(1st car,198k) and i wanna go 5 speed but i want a 3.5..my mom offered me to buy me another car when tax time comes because the one i have now has been hit in the trunk and i rather part it out then fix it, would basically cost me just as much..point is..anyone know where i could get a 5 speed for a good price? im lookin to spend between 2000-2500

 

Since I cant post a new thread. Here:

I recently replaced my valve cover gaskets (both right and left bank), grommets, plug seals and also replaced the upper gasket on the intake phlenum. After putting everything back together the car turns but doesnt fire. My first guess was the coil packs but I just wanted to get an opinion before I go and spend more money. Would a failing EGR gasket (the one that connects to the intake manifold) cause the engine not to fire?

 

Are you sure you reconnected everything? Look closer at the IACV plugs behind the throttle body.

 

I took lots of pictures just for that reason to make sure everything was reconnected and everything seems fine. I also connected and reconnected everything to make sure it was all seated properly. Any more ideas? Thanks for your help.

 

What do you mean by 'doesn't fire'? No spark, or just not starting?

If not starting, do you have spark? Fuel (both at the rail and to the cylinder)? Throwing any codes? Does it sound normal, or like there's no compression (as in, planned on replacing the plugs but forgot to install them)?

 

Simple, but a mistake Ive made several times.....Is your MAF plug connected?

 

Honestly, I wasnt sure how to check for spark on the coil packs. I am going to check them using a volt meter to make sure that they aren't bad/failing. I have fuel at the rail and cylinder because I can smell it after I try starting it and I hear the fuel pump engage whenever I turn the key to "ignition." No codes (wiring has been tampered with tho, but has never been a problem). It sounds the same as it did before I changed the gaskets (cranking wise) and all the plugs are there and they are in decent condition, lol.

 

It 'tis, I even labeled the connection to make certain it was correct.

 

CPS installed and good? TB gasket and iacv gasket good?

 

I'm not so sure about the CPS, but the TB and IACV were never detached from the intake manifold so those should still be in working condition.

 

Eeeewwwwww, you said get a glass pack. That's the last thing u want to do, glass packs sound like ****. What the hell are u, a redneck?...

 

Do 4th gens have some kinda noise indicator when you leave your head lights on? Mine doesn't make a noise at all and want to know if I can fix what ever makes the noise?..

 

Yeah its attached to the plastic cover that the fuse panel cover snaps onto. The 'knee plate' I guess. Its directly below the steering wheel.

 

craigslist.

i just bought my 2nd max from there,a 99 5spd.

 

 

Anybody have any more ideas as to why I have this problem?

Thanks!

 

Check for spark. Recheck everything you touched. Can you post a video of trying to start it?

 

I'll check for spark prob. this weekend as Im working only with one car. and I'll definetly post a video of me trying to start it.

thanks.

 

hahahaahahaha naw man im from Mass and im black!


I thought the glasspack was supposed to quiet things down.

O wait a sec, if u get a short glass pack then no, it wont do anything to quiet the exhaust.

 

exactly where ive been looking..only found about 2 or 3, hard to find them in NYC, i might have to start lookin in jersey

 

I'm a newbie I had posted on another thread and was told to post the issue here.

Anyway here's my story, over the last 6 mnths I've been having issues with my 1999 Maxima (180K miles) , the Air Bag and Seat Belt lights start flashing on and off and engine stalls and car does not start when these lights are flashing. Otherwise it runs fine, but this problem had become more frequent and worse, and finally couple of days ago stopped while I was driving. Over the course and recently I've changed the Alternator (2.5 yrs), Battery (4 mnths) and Starter (2 mnths)... so when I took it to Sears they told me it was an electrical issue since everything else checks out fine.

So finally I took it to the auto electric specialist, they charged $85 for the diagnostic. After the diagnosis they told me the problem is in the engine harness and voltage level from I believe the charging unit was low and was not properly powering other systems which most probably is the cause of all the issues and it had to be repaired (but they will not know for sure until they fix the harness and get power back to normal levels). I've read earlier posts on similar issues and in several cases the harness seemed to be the cause of flashing lights and stalling. So I went ahead, it cost me $500 where they opened the harness and fixed the wires that was damaged, but here's the point that has me thinking now, at that time he also mentioned before starting the harness job that in 10% of the cases when they repair the harness that the alternator can get damaged when everything is re-attached, I did not think about it much given the low probability of it happening. So the harness was fixed and problem was resolved, but now the mechanic tells me that the alternator got damaged and I'm unfortunately one of 5% - 10% of folks it happened too. He can't really explain why it happens and mentioned it can be due to change is resistance and several other factors, tells me that he cannot really explain it but in 5% -10% of all harness replacement/repair jobs it happens. I'm basically SOL and told him to go ahead replace the alternator which is another $300.

My question to the experts, does this sound logical and have you come across or experienced similar issues while repairing the harness wiring. The mechanic sounds honest and was recommended by a friend, but I also don't want get ripped off and have this strange feeling that I'm spending more than I should.

Please help with your inputs!!!

PS: All this was discussed on the phone as I dropped the car at the shop and was not present to see the issues myself, had to go on the word of the mechanic.

 

My security light only comes on after I've been driving for a while, cut the car off and then attempt to cut it back on. When trying to restart it, the car just cranks and cranks but won't turn over. It seems as if the car has to cool down for it to start properly without the light coming on, taking anywhere from 10-30 minutes to finally start. Sometimes the light comes on and it wont start, and sometimes it comes on and stays on and will disappear while i'm driving. This problem only started after I had my tranny replaced. I've sanded down all of the grounding points for the battery going to the transmission, thinking it could be a grounding issue. This has got me stuck in the parking lot of several stores and is getting pretty annoying. It doesn't sound like the key needs to be reprogrammed because it doesn't occur everytime. Any one have any ideas? Thanks

 

300 bucks for an alternator is about right.

500 bucks for rewiring is highway robbery. My mech would not have rewired shyt. He wd have went to the JY, cut a harness and replace it. Would have cost me prolly 150. Either way, before u done the work u shd have tried to fix it yourself using the FSM.

Air bag and seat belt light flashing should not have casued any starting issue, but do a SEARCH for more info

 

you have a 99, its your ignition coils. test them and /or replace.

Also check fuses for security sytem
Wh

 

Thanx a lot!....

 

@cashoit.

300 bucks for an alternator is about right.
Question is it was a working alternator but was told the power surge or reduced resistance once harness was ficed caused alternator to overwork and bust.

500 bucks for rewiring is highway robbery. My mech would not have rewired shyt. He wd have went to the JY, cut a harness and replace it. Would have cost me prolly 150. Either way, before u done the work u shd have tried to fix it yourself using the FSM.
They claim that they did not jerry-rig it (run wire around harness) they actually opened the harness removed the bad wires and replaced. Also they charged $150 for parts not sure what new parts were required. Only visible change is the battery connectors have been replaced now there are 2 connections from +ve terminal of the battery, where there was 1 earlier.

 

U might have been taken for a ride man.

If the mech knew that the alt could blow then why didnt he disconnect the harness for the alt or the positive battery terminal to make sure it didnt overload???

And 500 bucks for rewiring is ludicrous. 150 for parts??? Unless he bought a new ECU harness (which is Waaaaaay more than $150) what other parts were needed? jus wires, right. that dont cost 150 bucks.

Sorry to say man, but im calling on that mech story.

 

cashoit, what would the ignition coils have to do with the security light going off and cause the car not to start? I'm confused...