I got a 1995 maxima 5speed with around 275.xxx on it. It does not run and will need timing done. I have it almost all apart but taking the oil pan and stuff off. Its a pa title that is clear. Im looking to get 1,000 for it the way it sits. I have all the part and extra to go with. If not going to sell, Im might part it out or put a junk yard motor in it. Im located near Lancaster, Pa. Will get picture upload. Im new here so I dont have 15 post yet. sorry.
thanks,
aaron

 

So when I finished work, I popped the hood. I had the valve cover gaskets changed over the weekend. One of the plugs for the coil packs was unplugged. The release tab was jammed and wouldn't lock. I got it to free up and it locked in. I think it's fixed. The light has not come back on. I'm going to get it scanned tomorrow just in case.

 

Every now and then my heater will blow cold. Any ideas?

 

Ok so I changed the rubber boot after the MAF. it ran great. Drove about 25 miles again and it started to sputter. Is that automatically the sensor that's bad?

 

With such little to go on...

When this happens, is the temp gauge in the cluster reading normal temp?
Is it only when it's very cold outside?
Does it gradually come up to temp, suddenly?
When this happens, are both heater hoses at the same or similar temp, or is one much colder than the other? And the radiator hoses?
Have you checked the coolant level?
Is it blowing cold (AC), or ambient temp?
Manual or automatic climate control? If automatic, checked self diagnosis for codes?
Are there any unusual circumstances that tend to make this happen?
Can you replicate it at will?

...and so on. If all you have is 'blows cold now and then', there's not much you can start doing to fix it.

 

Why do you assume its the MAF? For that matter, why change out the intake coupler post-MAF, was it damaged in some way?

Throwing any codes? Do you have a way of looking at live data while the problem is occurring?

Can you define 'sputter'? Is this an intermittent misfire, or is it actually dropping several cylinders? Is it just hesitation? Are there any conditions in which you can reliably replicate this 'sputter'?

 

Makes sense...the CEL is probably a misfire code for the cylinder that you found the unplugged coil for.

 

Cluster gauge reading normal. It's 73 degrees out side now and it does it. It's not a gradual increase. It's more of a random burst of heat then goes cold soon after. As for as I know both hoses are the same temp. The coolant flows fine. It's blows about ambient temp. Tried both manual and auto, both settings do the same thing. It blows cold most of the time and randomly gets hot. I haven't found anything in perticular action that causes it to get "warm" as in it's not 85 like its set at.

All I knew how to start the question was the original post sorry it wasn't a lot on info.

 

I assume the MAF only because I read other places that the MAF will make it do that and that someone said there coupler wad broken and it was leaking air and causing it. It was damaged. It was split all the way around it.

It did. It was p0100. faulty MAF. didn't have the cad for a new one and when I read about the coupler being bad and causing it I changed. I reset the code manually on the ECM. so far it hasn't came back on since.

The sputter is more like a intermittent misfire. Usually at start up it will run really rough like a bad misfire but get it moving and it will stop.

Replicating?? Most of the time after a fewiles of driving it will start or sometimes flooring it will make it hesitate like it wants to go but don't have enough fuel. It's kinda like a stall. The other day it was doing it real bad and I put the gas further down and it did nothing. I mashed it and it never moved.

Also if u get on it for about a block and let go to turn a corner it wi stall out and I will have to start it but will fire up almost instantly.

Hope that's enough infor for now.

 

So I got in the car this morning and the overdrive light flashed. It will do it almost every start up but not quite all the time. It blinks 16 time. The car runs fine. It does shift a little hard but it was like that when I got it. Can anyone help?

 

As far as you know, meaning you haven't actually checked? If you want to get to the bottom of it, you need to do some actual hands-on testing. How do you know the 'coolant flows fine'?

Tried both manual and auto, meaning that it's automatic climate control, as the manual doesn't have an 'auto' setting. So as said, have you done the climate control self-diagnostics?

Now you're saying that it blows cold most of the time and randomly gets hot. In your...brief earlier post, you said that every 'now and then' it blows cold. Which is it?

Trying to figure out a driveability problem and neglecting to mention any codes, much less why you're heading in the direction you are is...yea.

Have you checked the engine control harness for wire damage by the right strut tower per the TSB? Common for wire breakage and intermittent driveability problems there.

When it's misfiring right after startup, will it only go away once you start driving? If so, immediately, or after a while? If you let it sit at idle, will the misfire go away on its own? If you rev it up does it have the same effect as driving the car?

The light is indicating a code stored in the TCM. Have you tried the TCM self-diagnostics?

 

if there is a bunch of wires taped up underneath the front passenger seat does that mean it is pre-wired for power seats? im planning on swapping i30 seats in the future

 

Nah, that just means that your car came with the ejection seats as a dealer-installed option

 

hi, i have a 1997 nissan maxima GLE and had gotten into a little accident. i needed to know if the passanger fender, hood, and bumper cover of a 96 nissan maxima are compatible with my car.

thanks in advance

 

The Fender and hood are the same. The Bumper cover is cosmetically different but should line up. Not a hundred percent on the cover though.

 

I need a stock radio. The CD player on mine just gives me an error and ejects the cd back out.

 

You can look in the classified section of Maxima.org or try ebay. There are 2 types of stock radios - Bose and non-Bose. get the appropriate one as they are not interchangeable.

 

Hi folks doing a swap of the 03 spec v 6mt gearbox into a 4th gen maxima with vq35 setup. Wondering if the shifter cables from the spec v will be long enough to reach the transmission properly or if I should look for shifter cables from a 02-03 maxima 6mt instead. The transmission setups are so similar but I just wanted to see if anyone here knew off hand before I go buy the entire shifter assembly off this parts car. Thanks in advance.

 

Anyone know of a good website that I can get a cheaper head gasket set for my 96. Cheap but good quality. I dont want them to break in 10k miles.

 

Dont cheap on head gaskets. FOR THE LOVE OF GOD.

 

where would be the best place to get a set??? I really need this done, as the car will burn all the water in the radiator in about 20 minutes.

Also, If someone can give me instructions on how to do the gaskets without separating car and engine that would be great.

 

You are aware that the QR trans will not mate up to the VQ, correct?

As for shifter cables, a quick search: http://forums.maxima.org/all-motor/6...e-lengths.html

$45 a piece for OE head gaskets from Courtesy.

 

Why would you pull the engine to do anything less than replacing it?

The FSM has step by step instructions on head gasket replacement.

 

Have a manual but can't figure out how remove the timing cover with the enging in the car. I had a hard time changing the water pump because of this. Until I realized that there is was a plate that had to be remove and the pump was right under it. But that's a whole story and problem in itself.

My knowledge is mostly in older model Chevy motors. Not too big on FWD. I see this as a learning car, but one that I need to work as I am driving a car that needs new gaskets.

 

By 'a manual' are you referring to a Haynes/Chiltons? Don't even bother with those.

Removing the timing cover is as easy as removing all of the bolts holding it on, after removing everything else that's bolted to or through it.

Also, how have you diagnosed bad head gaskets?

 

Hi, I replaced my TPS after having finicky starting issues. Nothing major, just had to depress gas pedal slightly to get an instant start. Now, when driving distances, then coming to a stop, followed by a slow acceleration, the CEL comes on. Mostly the P0136 code comes on, but have had the P0130 too. Why would this happen after a TPS replacement? I set the TPS using the feeler guage method. 96 Infiniti I30

 

Yes I am aware... well be swapping QR for the VQ bell. Also I did find that the search on this particular forum works very well! Thank you

 

I have a Chilton's manual

What about the motor mount. How would the motor stay in place while I work. I used a come a long and almost made the roof of the carport collapse.

I'm am burning all the antifreeze out the exhaust within minutes. This only happened after I unknowingly ran the car to the point of overheating and stalling as the temp gauge never moved. Also, I found the woman on facebook that had the car before the guy that I bought it from. Her father, who she says is a mechanic, told her that the head gaskets were going out as they was leaking oil. The one I bought it from failed to mention that to me so I'm stuck with it but I love this car and would rally like to get it back on the road as soon as possible.

Where can I get a FSM?

 

http://boredmder.com/FSMs/Nissan/Maxima/

or

http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/maxima/

 

Remove the motor mount, the engine isn't going anywhere.

As said, don't even bother with the Chiltons/Haynes. The FSM link has been in my sig this whole time.

 

Good day all!

I have a 1998 Nissan Maxima GLE, 5-speed with 301,600 km... yes that is correct.. haha. I just purchased the car for $500, a younger lad bought the car and wasn't doing anything with it, and his parents wanted it gone so I picked this beast up, anyway...

My main problem is when I start the car, it idles real rough, like its not firing on a cylinder. When I shift, its boggy at low rpm until about 3000 rpm. Theres almost a faint knocking/chugging sound, its real boggy getting up to the 3000 rpm mark.

There are NO engine lights on. I've changed the one #6 coilpack that the owner said was bad, as well as all the spark plugs. Ive done the coilpack tests as i've read on another thread, and they all check out.

Ive read cleaning the IACV, MAF and EGR valve may help, however I'm wondering if I have an injector problem possibly? Any tips on cleaning them? Or should I just buy a bottle of injector cleaner and run it through the system first?

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

 

try seafoam or injector cleaner. Made sure too that your FPR is good, same with fuel pump and filter. Check vac lines as well, those could cause the rough idle.

can you unplug coil packs one at a time when it's idling rough and see if unplugging one makes it run any worse? The one (or more) that does NOT change the rough idle is more than likely suspect as well.

 

Thank you for your quick response. I havent checked the fuel filter yet, it probably hasnt been changed at all, whats the best way in checking the fuel pressure? All vac lines should be accessible and easy enough to see from the top?

I will unplug each connector one at a time and reply with the results once that is complete.

thanks again for your help

 

on my Pontiac there's a "suck test" for the FPR but I doubt it's the same with the VQ. You can go to your FLAPS (favourite local auto parts store) and rent a fuel pressure test kit.

At that mileage, I would think fuel filter is a nobrainer...change it. Use the 350Z filter, it's longer or something and will last longer between changes.


Vac lines are relatively easy to see...they're the little narrow lines, almost look like small versions of the swimming pool "floatie" things...(yes, that's the technical description btw)

Do the IACV MAP and EGR cleaning anyway. Again, with the mileage you've got it can't hurt.

When I get a max the first thing I'm gonna do (well, one of them anyway) is the above-mentioned cleaning and FF change. Maybe even plugs (likely).

Speakeing of plugs...did you use NGK double Platinum / Iridium? Apparently the VQ is very picky on which plugs it uses.

 

The 350z fuel filter is no more than a sock on the bottom of the fuel pump assembly. The Z32 300zx filter is the compatible larger filter that is commonly used.

 

Wow, I feel like a dummy, maybe one of the connectors wasnt tight. The idle is now steady at about 1000 rpm, however the bog is still there when I took it for a quick drive. Its idling at about 1000 like I said but when I give it some gas I feel a rumble in the shifter and the pedal... it sounds like a V8. ( No there is no exhaust leak) Any idea? same issues as before, minus the idle, the idle is now steady.

I will do all of the cleanings that were mentioned, I should go ahead and order the gasket for the IACV? I read it should be changed when you clean it? Im going to check for vac leaks anyway, and with it running with a bog when im driving, maybe it could be a plugged fuel filter?

Yes, i did some research and bought the iridium plugs to save myself a headache.

thanks again

 

Thank you for your input on this, I take it this is a common replacement that is used due to the longer life?

 

Im also curious if the timing may be off making it boggy. With this much mileage, what should I look into getting for fixing the timing? im assuming this car was neglected with every owner.

 

My bad. I knew there was a Z somewhere, and for the life of me 350Z is all that came to mind.

If your timing would be off I think that you wouldn't even be getting spark to some cylinders. Being "boggy" but still runs, to me, doesn't sound like timing chain issues. Sounds like spark/fuel/exhaust issues. Since you have a timing chain and not a timing belt like most Honda/Toyota/Subaru, you should not have to "fix" the chain. The tensioner and guides, yes, if you're getting the TC rattle at startup, but I think you have a different issue.

Then again, I told you to get a 350Z fuel filter so maybe you shouldn't listen to me :-)

 

my lower radiator support broke on me today. i called a few shops and they could give me a price on how much it would be to get it fixed with out seeing the car. i dont want to drive it in case something else happens. what are some prices that ppl have paid?