Stickies: http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...a-1995-1999-6/
To find the stickies, just go to the bottom of this page to the drop down that says forum jump, click on whatever generation you want then right at the top of the page will be all the stickies associAted with that gen. But here's the 4th gen link to get you started.

Guy that may be selling pathfinder throttle body: http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...le-feeler.html

 

was just wondering if anyone has any ideas on what i need to do.

did wait a few days before reposting. I have searched google. if i am not clear on anything i can try to clear up. I can also make a video of what it's doing on a full tank as well as when it gets lower.

Thanks for any help given,
Donnie

 

sounds like fuel pump to me

 

normal nissan behavior. all of my maximas have done the same. U can clean the TB and IACV see if the idle smooths out but i wouldnt worry too muych

 

Thanks 2brosgixxer... I do appreciate it...

 

Hey what does it mean when engine oil goes into one(#4) of my spark plug cylinders and what should I do or replace thx for any help

 

If the oil is in the tube where you put the spark plug socket in order to remove the spark plug, it means that you need to replace the valve cover gasket and the seal for the spark plug tube.

If the oil is getting into the cylinder as you stated, then either the cylinder head gasket is blown or the cylinder head or engine block is cracked. If this is happening, the car is burning oil and making a smoke screen.

 

it means u need to replace your spark plug tube seals.

The tube seals are part of the valve cover replacement kit. replace the valve cover gasket, Throttle body gasktet and any other gasket required to get to the valve cover gasket.

Do a SEARCH. There is a how to on the org for replacing the valve cover gasket.

 

Thx Dennis, and there is no smoke screen or smoke coming out it just has oil in the #4 tube, I called it cylinder cause its circled shape. So I'm guessing I need to replace the valve cover gasket and the seals, what about O-rings?

 

Hey cashoit, do you think u can tell me how to search on the org (guessing this forum) or do u mean I have to go one by one looking for this subject on here thx

 

Top of the thread, Search This Thread tool or the search bar right under you login screen. It will pull up all posts with your search phrase. Might have to try a few times to narrow down your wording. But it does work

 

I am not sure of what o-rings you are referring to. All you need is the valve cover gasket and the spark plug tube seals.

http://www.courtesyparts.com/13276-s...ml?cPath=1783&

 

alright well i was going to take your advice and just let it be but then yesterday my check engine light came on. so i brought it to my machanic and he plugged it in and said it is probably the
"knock sensor" and the "egr valve" he told me to get the parts and he would put it in for me so i went to autozone to get an idea of how much this would cost me and all i know is it is $125 for the knock sensor and i spaced and forgot to ask them to look how much it would be for the egr valve. i would just do this job myselp but im not all that mechanically inclined. how much would this cost me to do threw i normal mechanic? and does anybody know how much it is for the egr valve? also is this what would cause my problem i originally posted? please help! thanks for the help in advanced.

 

Hey org. what can be causing my car from not turning on with out me flooring the gas pedal so it doesn't die on me any help well be good thx

 

Im having issues with an inconsistent start on my 1998 maxima GLE. I went to autozone and the printout gave me two codes, P0325 which is for the knock sensor and P0340 which is for the CAM sensor.

The car will crank and crank but wont catch sometimes. Other times it starts right up and run without a hitch.

Could a bad CAM sensor cause the knock sensor code?

 

First, the codes don't mean those parts are bad, they just tell you that something may not be right with that part or circuit. They are far from a diagnosis in and of themselves (short of P0600 or similar).

For how much the EGR valve is, why don't you just check parts store websites with your zipcode? Actually, what was the code, insufficient EGR flow?

For the knock sensor, don't spend $125 locally, just order a cheap one from eBay, no real difference. $100 savings there. The KS has nothing to do with your problem.

As for you original problem, I wouldn't be suspecting the EGR valve, more of a potentially sticky IACV plunger, or possibly a switch keeping the PS/AC idle-up solenoids intermittently energized.

Does it not start without being WOT? That's clear flood mode, where the injectors are disabled on startup.

Do you have to be WOT for it to even idle? If so, you have some serious issues.

Throwing any codes? Did this just start happening randomly, or was it an existing problem that just got worse? Did you do anything, have anything done, or did anything happen to the car immediately prior to this becoming a problem?

 

Chances are the KS code has been there for a while, it won't trip the CEL.

Yes, a bad CPS can cause starting issues. Without being able to scope the sensor, you're pretty much limited to checking the wiring between it and the ECU, and if fine replacing the CPS.

 

Do you have any leaks in your exhaust? That could be triggering the code for the EGR valve.

 

I'm not sure if a CAM sensor malfunction can trigger a knock sensor code. Although they're both related to timing and both circuit codes. Check the resistance for their connectors if their in spec. Check the wires for fraying as well. Maybe the CMP and KS wires meet somewhere and they were damaged by something physical.

What's the code? There's a possibility that the problem is not the part itself.

 

there are no leaks from what i see and hear the exhaust seems solid.

 

[quote=pmohr;8343830]First, the codes don't mean those parts are bad, they just tell you that something may not be right with that part or circuit. They are far from a diagnosis in and of themselves (short of P0600 or similar).

For how much the EGR valve is, why don't you just check parts store websites with your zipcode? Actually, what was the code, insufficient EGR flow?

For the knock sensor, don't spend $125 locally, just order a cheap one from eBay, no real difference. $100 savings there. The KS has nothing to do with your problem.

As for you original problem, I wouldn't be suspecting the EGR valve, more of a potentially sticky IACV plunger, or possibly a switch keeping the PS/AC idle-up solenoids intermittently energized.

i went back and got the codes that came up today. i got P0400 and the other one is P0325. also i found out that the egr valve was pretty much the same price as the KS. so if i were to order the KS off ebay should i order the egr valve off ebay as well? why is my parts store charging me $100 more for something i can order off ebay for $25 bucks? also i now understand that the codes don't mean the parts are bad, like i said im not all that mechanically inclined haha..is there any way i could check if there is something wrong with the part or circut? could an IACV problem come up with either of these 2 codes i have?

 

I just changed the plugs in my 95 maxima because I thought there may be a problem with them or coil packs. I found by removing the electrical plug from each one that the back middle cyclinder was not working. I changed the coil packs and still nothing on the middle cyclinder with another working coil pack. It seems I am not getting any fire to that particular cyclinder. What should my next step be?

 

P0400 is no EGR flow, which is more than likely just carboned up EGR tubes.

I only suggest the KS off of eBay because of forum experience with it. Most of the time, a price too good to be true actually is.

Unless you can do anything yourself, you'll have to bring the car in for service somewhere, preferably somewhere that doesn't throw parts at the car because 'that's what the code says'.

You need to figure out why that cylinder isn't firing. Check for fuel, check for spark, check compression.

 

How do I check for fuel,spark,or compression? Is there a way to check the wire that plugs into the coil pack? It seems to go into a harness and then all those wires plug into something beside the intake maybe?

 

It sounds like it would be best for you to take it to a shop for a prior diag.

 

After checking closely the wire that plugs into the coil pack on the middle back cylinder seems to go in the harness and over to the idle air control valve. This code P0505 came up on the computer. Is there any way to check/clean the idle air control valve to see if this is causing the issues of missing? My car seems to idle low when stopped and seems to surge or miss while stopped. I just want to find out if there is a way to check any of this without just replacing parts.

 

No, the wires that are specific to the coil don't go to the IACV, why would they?

A faulty IACV would not cause a single cylinder misfire.

Yes, there are ways to check everything, but as I've said, it looks like it'll be best if you take to a shop for a proper diag.

 

I have a 96 Nissan Maxima V6 3.0L and I am wanting to replace the spark plugs. I have been having idling problems and because those plugs that are installed now have not been replaced in a VERY long time.

I want to know what are the best spark plugs for my car. I searched online and almost bought the Bosch Platinum +4. I then found on other sites saying that this was a bad idea and that I should stick with the standard NGK's.

I mostly use my car in town, but occasionally I take long trips highway trips.

My Question: Which spark plugs are the best for my car.

 

As you've heard, Bosch is a bad idea. Just go with the OE plug, NGK PFR5G-11. You could also use NGK coppers if the platinums are too costly, they just don't last as long.

 

[quote=pmohr;8344712]P0400 is no EGR flow, which is more than likely just carboned up EGR tubes.

I only suggest the KS off of eBay because of forum experience with it. Most of the time, a price too good to be true actually is.

Unless you can do anything yourself, you'll have to bring the car in for service somewhere, preferably somewhere that doesn't throw parts at the car because 'that's what the code says'.

alright thats good to know thankyou. is code P0325 for the KS? and is there any way i could check if it needs to be replaced or not before i just buy a new one?

 

Yes, P0325 is the KS.

Code: P0325 | Description: Knock Sensor



Diagnostic information is provided in the FSM, starting on EC-300.

 

alright sweetdeal, well i just looked up a forum on how to replace a KS and it doesn't look that hard just a pain in the butt to squeeze in that area so i might give it a shot. are there any forums about egr valves and how to clean the the egr tubes that you know of by any chance? btw, thank you for the help i really appreciate it.

 

Most of the time, it's the KS but check the harnesses first.

 

Go here......
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...on-maxima.html
This will be your best friend. It has how to's for the EGR and KS replacement. I just did my KS the other day, I found the best way to get in there is remove your air intake box and tubes then stand at the driver side fender and reach your left hand in there to loosen/tighten the bolt once you get it loosened with a 12mm wratchet. But, visit the link I gave you, it will answer A LOT of your questions you may have.

 

hi can some1 help me i have a 96 maxima and my ac compressor is makeing a bad squealing sound so i do not fell like wasting the money on 1 so i was just going to take it off and buy a smaller belt to put on that way i do not have the ac compressor any to make the sound go away and to lose weight i do not care if i have ac i drive with the windows down anyway is that ok to do dos it matter if it is there r not

 

Yes, that will work. Search, the belt size has been given a dozen times in this thread alone, not to mention all across the 4th and 5th gen forums.

 

cool ty hi and i just ordered nex coilovers for my maxima do u know if thay r any good and where can i find the belt size in the fourms r do u know it

 

Never heard of them.

And for the belt size, did you even read my last post? If not, read it. If you did read it, you obviously didn't read all of it; read it again.

 

ok sry ty and i need to see if some1 can help me with this to my maxima is a 96 and my blinker fuse well not stop blowing it well blow as soon as i turn on my blikers can any1 help me with that

 

It might do you well to use proper spelling and actual words instead of numbers or ridiculous abbreviations; the more difficult it is to understand you, the less people will care to read and try to help.

By 'blinkers' do you mean the turn signals, or the hazards? I'll assume turn signals, and again assume 'blinker fuse' meaning the 7.5a 'turn' fuse in the interior fuse box.

Does this only happen when you use the left turn signal, or the right turn signal? What about the hazards?

Did this just start happening suddenly, or was it an occasional thing that started getting worse? Did you do anything, have anything done, or did anything happen to the car immediately prior to this starting to occur?

Have you checked all of the turn signal bulbs, sockets, and exposed harness for signs of corrosion or chafing? Have you tried unplugging all of the bulbs to see if it would still blow the fuse?