Alright thank you, and I should have just googled it sorry about that. so now I'm contemplating on blue or yellow and I found these blue ones that look good and seem to have better reviews then most. They are called Luminics. Has anybody used them and know if they're good?

 

blue does nothing to help cut the fog. If you just want to look pretty with the blue, go ahead but it is sh!tty output.

Yellow is actually best for cutting through the fog.

 

Locktite may work, but the A/C system is pressurized...I don't think that'll hold up too long

 

Id use some jb weld...put it in the hole, then put some oil on the bolt and thread it in the wet jb weld. Let it harden with the bolt still in and covered with oil. The oil will prevent the jb weld from adhering to the bolt which will in turn make new threads because it will adhere to the walls of the compressor.

Locktite won't work if there are no threads.

 

Loctite, JB Weld, any temporary kludge like that is just a bad idea. Drill it out and tap it for a larger size if you have the room, or use a helicoil/timesert kit.

 

Alright thanks for the suggestion, I'll get yellows then. I don't want ****ty clarity I just didn't know what would be brighter, but thanks!

 

So I've been lookin around for a website to order parts from at a good price but still with good/great lasting quality..one of my coworkers referred me to fcpimports.com
I just wanna get someones take on it..cuz I wanna order the control arm kit they have that includes tie rods which I really need..any ideas or opinions?

 

Apologies if need be, this is my first post and I did search extensively (at least it seemed like it) before posting.

Background - Girlfriend's 1995 Maxima just had body work post accident. After getting it back, I replaced window regulator and motor driver/rear successfully without incident. Replaced passenger/rear regulator and motor. Did not check passenger/front window operation post body work or before passenger

Question: could there be a problem in the drivers window switch panel that would take out power to both the front and rear passenger windows?

The windows will not operate from either "their" door switches, or the driver panel. Driver side both OK from panel and doors.

Confirming single fuse for the 1995 Maxima under hood.

Thanks in advance.

 

forreal yo its not hard at all to just retap the thread... rent a set from autozone

 

its probably the same cheap control arm kit that everyone sells including ebay, which would be cheaper probably.

 

you replaced those motors and regulators for what reason? if you hit both switches and nothing happens, make sure the window lock isnt on. then try a buddies switch or one from a JY to see if its just the switch.

to answer your question, yes if theres a problem with the main drivers switch or if its unplugged, it will prevent others from working.

 

My Lumincs burned out after a month. I went to Nokya bulbs with better luck.


In theory, yes, Yellow is best for cutting through fog. But 4th gen glass fog lights cutting through fog? I've yet to witness that in my car.

 

I've seen too many negative testimonial on ebay/FCP controm arm kits. I went to rockauto.com and spent $55 on Mevotech complete control arms. They included brand new bushings and ball joints. The build quality is great. I would also pick up a set of Energy Suspension sway bar bushings and sway bar end links while you are tackling the control arms.

Buy once, cry once.

 

Thanks very much for replying. Both rear windows weren't working and inspection showed regulator cables bound and so replaced. Driver/rear no problem. Window lock not on. After my initial post I removed the master switch and discovered individual door switches won't work without it (like you said). Can one "side" of the master go bad? Ordered a replacement JIC. Also want to confirm only one fuse is relevant to the power windows (the one under the hood). Could be the replacement part is bad and the passenger/front chose this time to break. Easiest way to test window motor w/o switch? Thanks again.

 

I have a strong smell of gas and it smells strongest under driver side door. I also had an egr low flow check engine light. I have searched the forum and cleaned the EGR tube and checked EGR valve by pushing up on it manually and the car stalls. I'm not sure if gas smell is related. Light has not come back since cleaning EGR tube but smell still present. Check all lines, no visible leaks. Replaced fuel filter. Still can't locate origin of smell. If anyone can point me in the right direction. PLEASE. Also smell is not in car or back by gas tank or gas cap. Also replaced gas cap just because it was recomended but of course no change.

 

easiest way to test window motor without switch? a jumpbox and two pieces of wire.

 

when you messed with your egr did you reuse the gasket? and tighten all the fasteners down?

 

Alright sounds good thanks

 

That's exactly wat I was afraid of..thanks for the input

 

Is there a specific brand I should be looking out for?

 

I ordered a new radiator for our automatic maxima, and it said the radiator has TOC. I read that TOC means transmission oil cooler.

Does that mean there is a radiator inside the radiator that cools the transmission oil? Cause there are 2 lines going to the bottom of the radiator... is that from the transmission? Will the transmission oil drain out when I'll be replacing the radiator?

 

alright, thanks for the input man. i guess i will go with those bulbs. but ive been searching and searching and a lot of people have hid kits for their fogs and i think the output is so much better with hid kit. but do you have to do any retro fitting to get them in? if i used H3c bulbs would they just plug and play or would i have to do something to my foglight housing to get it to fit properly? I have a 99 maxima and a lot of the threads ive seached through people are saying 95-96 fogs are different from 97-99 and that there is something that needs to be done for the hid bulb to fit.

 

97 maxima stock everythin 3.0L v6 auto trans 297874km

Check engine light is on. WHen I am getting up to speed on the highway (100km/hr) or accelerating to pass someone, as soon as I hit 3000rpms the light starts flashing until I reach 100km/hr and 2100 rpms. While the transmission is shifting i get a slight bucking sensation. If I turn off my OD everything runs smooth, however my rpms double, causing fuel waste. I ran a self diagnostic and both of the CEL decoders and the Hayne's Manual I purchased yesterday (best $25.00) of my life) gave the same definitions. Below are the codes from my ECU adn my Transmission.

CEL
0204 - Undefined
0706 - Undefined
0705 - EVAP control system leak
0707 - O2 sensor fault
0903 - EVAP cannister control valve
1005 - EGRC solenoid valve
1107 - Undefined
1106 - 4th gear signal fault/ improper shift
0304 - Knock sensor
0606 -CYlinder 3 misfire

Transmission Diagnostic
1st flash long and 4th flash long
Revolution Sensor
Shift Solenoid Valve A

 

Would the ECU give some code and make the check-engine-light turn on if there is a blown head gasket in the engine?

I think the gasket may be blown and water is getting into the cylinder. However, engine runs fine and no codes come up. Water level decreases in the radiator really fast though. We can't tell where the water is going. It does not go into the oil though, and it does not drip on the ground.

 

Im no car expert, but ill help you out as much as I can.

0706 is fuel injection system lean or rich on right bank, which I believe is where cylinders 1, 3, and 5 are. This is what is most likely causing your cylinder 3 misfire. Sorry I cant help you find exactly what is causing code 0706, (like I said, im not an expert) but you can search the forum for information on that. Don't worry about your knock sensor, its most likely a piggy back code of the o2 or misfire.

0705 is caused by 0903, easy fix, this link should help you: http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...0446-evap.html
If that thread doesnt help you enough, you can still search the forum and find a lot more helpful threads.

Code 0707 is for the downstream sensor, this sensor is only for the cat, it doesnt affect mpg or performance, so this code is the least of your worries.

1005:http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...875-p1400.html (search forum for more information)

1107 is A/T TCC solenoid valve fault.

You could have gotten all this information and more from this forum, all you have to do is search. I would fix the transmission problem before anything else, dont blow your money fixing all the smaller problems to later find out that your transmission is done for. Hopefully your tranny codes are not too serious. Sorry I couldnt be of any more help, just saw that no one had responded to you yet so I decided to help out a bit.

Correct me if im wrong anybody !

 

Q: im getting my coilovers this week but im trying to purchase 35th anniversity corvette swirlie ..what are the wheel adapters ima need ?

 

Hi! I'm wondering if anyone has or knows of someone who has a rebuilt or very good used non-vlsd 5 speed transmission or possibly knows of a reasonably priced quality re-manufacturer. My transmission is on it's way out (the famed differential bearing issue, leaking on the drivers side) I don't have the time to take it out and rebuild it myself I just need to swap it out for another one for now.

 

Have you checked out the PARTS FOR SALE/WANTED - 4TH GEN forum?

http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...-1995-1999-43/

 

My Bose stereo is only on AM now and as I never listen to am I wanted to change it back to FM. But there is no visable button on the unit face to change the mode to FM....where is it?? What am I missing here?? I think after I put a new battery in it has only been on AM and after pushing all the buttons there is no FM button that I can see. It works fine on CD or am, just cant find how to change it back over to FM....

 

Try pushing the button labeled AM-FM that is below the tape player.

 

Yes, I know it sounds stupid and moronic, but trust me there is no button there to press. But, after reading your reply, I looked more carefully at my faceplate and sure enough there use to be what looks like a place for a small metal bar lever or something that must have been attached there before but is not there now and has two holes that go into the unit to trigger the am/fm mode. So I took two pieces of stiff wire and pushed in the holes and voila, back to FM! Unless you have had this Bose system before you would have never guessed there was an am/fm bar there to push as it looks factory without it. Thanks!

 

It's good that you figured it out. FWIW, you have a replacement Bose unit. The Bose put in by Nissan in the 3rd and 4th gens had a black plastic button with white lettering for this, about 3/4 of and inch tall and an inch or so wide. The 5th gen Bose button is a little smaller, but not by much.

As long as it works, that's all that matters.

 

Hello my name is Arlie, Im new to the forums, I am looking at doing an engine swap for my 96 Maxima. So here is the question, what is the most common engine swap for my year? Thanks for any help you can give me...

 

any how to's on cleaning the IACV with pictures?

 

No power to either passenger side window. I have replaced master window switch and directly powered each passenger side window motor to confirm function. Driver side windows both operate from master; rear driver side operates from rear door switch. Passenger side windows operate from neither master nor individual door switches. Wiring diagram? Relevant fuse? Please recommend possible issues/fixes/diagnostics. Thanks in advance!

 

http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...dummies-3.html

All the pictures are inserted on post #99

 

thanks so much i really appreciate it! I looked and clicked on that thread and noticed it didn't have pics so i exited out right away, but thank you so much I plan on cleaning evening out this weekend!

 

... it has pics...the last post.

http://forums.maxima.org/8580278-post99.html

 

Is there a diagnostic that will help me determine why both passenger windows don't seem to be getting power? Again, thanks for your help.

 

Having an issue with my 98 maxima. The problem is intermittent but very regular. I know it sounds like an oxymoron. The car wants to stumble but only at aprox 1500 rpm or less. It is not throwing any codes. Does not matter whether I'm driving or idling as long as it's around 45mph or less. At idle i will notice the tach drop 200-400 rpm when this occurs. if I take it out of gear the rpm goes back up and will usually disappear. I have tried everything I can think of. Any ideas anyone

any help is much appreciated.