NOOBIES: "I AM NEW HERE BUT HAVE A QUESTION" thread. Read FIRST post BEFORE posting!
08-25-2012 | 08:28 AM
#8681
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 12
From: Southern Maine
Crankshaft sensor? Bent flywheel? Something else?
Alright, so for approximately 3 years now I have owned my current Max, not my first but 3rd, and I have been trying to diagnose and solve the same problem for 3 years now. It is sort of an on and off thing, I am not continuously throwing parts at the car, but finally said enough is enough I need to talk to some people that really knows about these cars.
In 2008 I bought the car with 90,000 miles on it, Salvage title it had previously been totaled, front and back. When I test drove the car i noticed a hesitation around 2500-3000 RPM at highway speeds, and when I really get on the car around 3500-4000 its starts to stutter and loose power until 5000 then takes off.
First I thought it was a bad plug or coil, so I changed all my plugs to NGK plugs (previous owner used Bosch, and I hate Bosch in these cars). Then I unplugged all the coils one by one to see if I had a bad coil and everything seemed fine.
After the tune up and plug change it seemed to go away (maybe it was in my head) but it came back, this time it seemed like the hesitation and stutter points had changed, It was no longer a nuisance I hardly noticed it.
Then my starter went and i changed my starter, and for 3 months everything was fine until i thought my starter went again. Changed it out again and this time when i turned the car over all i got was a grinding sound almost like when you try to start your already started car. I though it was because of a bad connection, changed out my negative terminal (it was corroded) and it fired right up.
Every so often my starter does the same thing for a crank or 2 then fires right up (this is why i think its a bent flywheel) so I took my starter out and inspected my flywheel, and it looks fine no bent or damaged teeth
My next step was to look at my crankshaft sensors, I changed both crank sensors (by the oil pan, and on the bell housing). The connector on the bell housing had some dirt in it so i thought for sure the connector was the issue but it wasn't. I cleaned it and changed the sensor (I forgot to unplug the battery while doing this).
After changing the sensor on the trans the issue is worse so that is why I narrowed it down to these to things. The stutter is worse and i feel it all the time in every gear around 2500-3000, and the hesitation around 3500-4000 is back in 3rd-5th gear.
*Im throwing no codes by the way (i knew that was gonna be one of the first questions*
*What I have done*
-changed the crank sensors
-changed the spark plugs
-checked the coils
-checked the fuel pump (thought it could have been a fuel issue)
-ran 91 octane for a few months
-checked the flywheel
-cleaned my MAF sensor (using MAF sensor cleaner)
-tune-ups and oil every 3000 miles
**Help**
-could it be something as simple as disconnecting my battery to reset the new sensor
-did I ruin the new sensor by not disconnecting the battery
-could the flywheel be bent just not visibly
-any other ideas
Thanks for everyone's threads by the way I am on the website all the time whenever I have an issue to help resolve them. Its like my troubleshooting bible.
-
In 2008 I bought the car with 90,000 miles on it, Salvage title it had previously been totaled, front and back. When I test drove the car i noticed a hesitation around 2500-3000 RPM at highway speeds, and when I really get on the car around 3500-4000 its starts to stutter and loose power until 5000 then takes off.
First I thought it was a bad plug or coil, so I changed all my plugs to NGK plugs (previous owner used Bosch, and I hate Bosch in these cars). Then I unplugged all the coils one by one to see if I had a bad coil and everything seemed fine.
After the tune up and plug change it seemed to go away (maybe it was in my head) but it came back, this time it seemed like the hesitation and stutter points had changed, It was no longer a nuisance I hardly noticed it.
Then my starter went and i changed my starter, and for 3 months everything was fine until i thought my starter went again. Changed it out again and this time when i turned the car over all i got was a grinding sound almost like when you try to start your already started car. I though it was because of a bad connection, changed out my negative terminal (it was corroded) and it fired right up.
Every so often my starter does the same thing for a crank or 2 then fires right up (this is why i think its a bent flywheel) so I took my starter out and inspected my flywheel, and it looks fine no bent or damaged teeth
My next step was to look at my crankshaft sensors, I changed both crank sensors (by the oil pan, and on the bell housing). The connector on the bell housing had some dirt in it so i thought for sure the connector was the issue but it wasn't. I cleaned it and changed the sensor (I forgot to unplug the battery while doing this).
After changing the sensor on the trans the issue is worse so that is why I narrowed it down to these to things. The stutter is worse and i feel it all the time in every gear around 2500-3000, and the hesitation around 3500-4000 is back in 3rd-5th gear.
*Im throwing no codes by the way (i knew that was gonna be one of the first questions*
*What I have done*
-changed the crank sensors
-changed the spark plugs
-checked the coils
-checked the fuel pump (thought it could have been a fuel issue)
-ran 91 octane for a few months
-checked the flywheel
-cleaned my MAF sensor (using MAF sensor cleaner)
-tune-ups and oil every 3000 miles
**Help**
-could it be something as simple as disconnecting my battery to reset the new sensor
-did I ruin the new sensor by not disconnecting the battery
-could the flywheel be bent just not visibly
-any other ideas
Thanks for everyone's threads by the way I am on the website all the time whenever I have an issue to help resolve them. Its like my troubleshooting bible.
-
08-25-2012 | 01:15 PM
#8682
Alright, so for approximately 3 years now I have owned my current Max, not my first but 3rd, and I have been trying to diagnose and solve the same problem for 3 years now. It is sort of an on and off thing, I am not continuously throwing parts at the car, but finally said enough is enough I need to talk to some people that really knows about these cars.
In 2008 I bought the car with 90,000 miles on it, Salvage title it had previously been totaled, front and back. When I test drove the car i noticed a hesitation around 2500-3000 RPM at highway speeds, and when I really get on the car around 3500-4000 its starts to stutter and loose power until 5000 then takes off.
First I thought it was a bad plug or coil, so I changed all my plugs to NGK plugs (previous owner used Bosch, and I hate Bosch in these cars). Then I unplugged all the coils one by one to see if I had a bad coil and everything seemed fine.
After the tune up and plug change it seemed to go away (maybe it was in my head) but it came back, this time it seemed like the hesitation and stutter points had changed, It was no longer a nuisance I hardly noticed it.
Then my starter went and i changed my starter, and for 3 months everything was fine until i thought my starter went again. Changed it out again and this time when i turned the car over all i got was a grinding sound almost like when you try to start your already started car. I though it was because of a bad connection, changed out my negative terminal (it was corroded) and it fired right up.
Every so often my starter does the same thing for a crank or 2 then fires right up (this is why i think its a bent flywheel) so I took my starter out and inspected my flywheel, and it looks fine no bent or damaged teeth
(snipped by dennis)
In 2008 I bought the car with 90,000 miles on it, Salvage title it had previously been totaled, front and back. When I test drove the car i noticed a hesitation around 2500-3000 RPM at highway speeds, and when I really get on the car around 3500-4000 its starts to stutter and loose power until 5000 then takes off.
First I thought it was a bad plug or coil, so I changed all my plugs to NGK plugs (previous owner used Bosch, and I hate Bosch in these cars). Then I unplugged all the coils one by one to see if I had a bad coil and everything seemed fine.
After the tune up and plug change it seemed to go away (maybe it was in my head) but it came back, this time it seemed like the hesitation and stutter points had changed, It was no longer a nuisance I hardly noticed it.
Then my starter went and i changed my starter, and for 3 months everything was fine until i thought my starter went again. Changed it out again and this time when i turned the car over all i got was a grinding sound almost like when you try to start your already started car. I though it was because of a bad connection, changed out my negative terminal (it was corroded) and it fired right up.
Every so often my starter does the same thing for a crank or 2 then fires right up (this is why i think its a bent flywheel) so I took my starter out and inspected my flywheel, and it looks fine no bent or damaged teeth
(snipped by dennis)
On the engine as you look at it fron the front, there are 2 wires attached to the head between the fuel injectors for cyl 2 & 4. Remove/clean/tighten these 2 wires. The give the car a test drive.
08-26-2012 | 09:52 AM
#8683
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 1
I'm not new to forums, just this one.
I realize joining a forum just to sell something is typically frowned upon...but such is life. Ignore or delete if necessary.
My mom just lost her '99 SE. She took exceptional care of it, and the interior (with the exception of the steering wheel) is immaculate. Insurance company is wanting around $600 for the car. I was mainly curious if an interior swap (grey cloth) would be something worth buying the car back for?
Car was impacted from the passenger side front corner and worked it's way down to the rear door. The wheel on that side is pretty tweaked and I'm unsure if there is damage to the trans.
Space isn't too much of an issue, I just don't want to have this thing lingering around for longer than 6 months.
Any help to allow me to make an intelligent "investment" purchase in this car would be appreciated.
Thanks in advance!
EDIT - Hell, I'll even through in my first $100 of profit to you or the site if the info is helpful and I go through with this plan.
I realize joining a forum just to sell something is typically frowned upon...but such is life. Ignore or delete if necessary.
My mom just lost her '99 SE. She took exceptional care of it, and the interior (with the exception of the steering wheel) is immaculate. Insurance company is wanting around $600 for the car. I was mainly curious if an interior swap (grey cloth) would be something worth buying the car back for?
Car was impacted from the passenger side front corner and worked it's way down to the rear door. The wheel on that side is pretty tweaked and I'm unsure if there is damage to the trans.
Space isn't too much of an issue, I just don't want to have this thing lingering around for longer than 6 months.
Any help to allow me to make an intelligent "investment" purchase in this car would be appreciated.
Thanks in advance!
EDIT - Hell, I'll even through in my first $100 of profit to you or the site if the info is helpful and I go through with this plan.
Last edited by LowFlyin'; 08-26-2012 at 09:59 AM.
08-27-2012 | 08:54 PM
#8684
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 9
I need an expert
This is my story I have been going through alot of troubleshooting to get down to the problem and I am still having problems... I have a 1999 Nissan Maxima GLE
About a month ago I started experiencing some chugging with what seemed like some misfiring and general rough driveability. I could smell gas every now and then some other wierd smells every so ofter. This was very intermittent at first but as it continued to get worse I decided to have it all checked out. I pulled a "misfire cylinder 5" code and a manufacturers code that my mechanic did not know what it was.
At this point I changed all my spark plugs, and a coil pack on cylinder 5 and the problem did not fix itself... This was still an intermittent problem until a week or so later when the rough during idle started to get gradually worse, at this I point I also started to experience some hesitation during acceleration and my rpm would stick in first gear until I got up to speed and it would sort of go away...
After words I decided to have the codes pulled on a better scanner and this is what came up... P1105/P1130/P1320
I then had the codes cleared and I replaced intake gasket and plenum gasket. When I checked out the cylinder 5 I saw there was a bent prong so I took it back to autozone and had it replaced with a new one... and I replaced the muffler (which was starting to get loud)
Then I used a can of seafoam, Throttle body cleaner, gas supplements, changed the MAP sensor and did some other routine cleaning and maintenance and still had no luck... My symptoms are getting gradually worse (rough idle getting worse as the car was being driven, hesitation during acceleration and jump RPM's would jump around during acceleration and changing gears) This time also as I would come up to speed and kinda have to floor the gas to do so, and the check engine light started to flash (type A misfire). I also smelled some something that didnt smell like gas or "rotten eggs" but more like the aftersmell of fireworks/smokebombs...
After this I did some more troubleshooting with a can of starter fluid and I noticed it made my EGR valve act funky... So that was taken off cleaned (looked to be functioning fine) and put back on... I also decided to replace the rest of the coil packs because I know they are all known to go bad... I also addressed a small vacuum leak. Also I added tranny fluid (it was fairly low) and a bottle of lucas oil tranny additive.
After doing this my car started up and ran idle beautifully and I took it for a test drive... It drove great for about twenty minutes unlike the other times I replaced things and it would start acting up after about two minutes of driving... So I stopped by my mechanics house and told him I though I got to the bottom of it... when I took off to go home it started acting up right away... rough during idle (but not as bad as pre coil pack changes) still hesitation during acceleration especially in the low RPM and... It went away after driving it some more and then came back even worse... I would put the pedal all way to the floor and almost got no acceleration... My RPM would also kick up for a spllit second then fall back down and I was puttering up my driveway... at this point there is No check engine light... and NO FLASHING when I drove the car up to higher speeds... but did smell of something like what fireworks smell like when they get set off
IM LOST AND TERRIBLY FRUSTRATED
please dont be afraid to give a lengthy detailed answer of why I am stupid
About a month ago I started experiencing some chugging with what seemed like some misfiring and general rough driveability. I could smell gas every now and then some other wierd smells every so ofter. This was very intermittent at first but as it continued to get worse I decided to have it all checked out. I pulled a "misfire cylinder 5" code and a manufacturers code that my mechanic did not know what it was.
At this point I changed all my spark plugs, and a coil pack on cylinder 5 and the problem did not fix itself... This was still an intermittent problem until a week or so later when the rough during idle started to get gradually worse, at this I point I also started to experience some hesitation during acceleration and my rpm would stick in first gear until I got up to speed and it would sort of go away...
After words I decided to have the codes pulled on a better scanner and this is what came up... P1105/P1130/P1320
I then had the codes cleared and I replaced intake gasket and plenum gasket. When I checked out the cylinder 5 I saw there was a bent prong so I took it back to autozone and had it replaced with a new one... and I replaced the muffler (which was starting to get loud)
Then I used a can of seafoam, Throttle body cleaner, gas supplements, changed the MAP sensor and did some other routine cleaning and maintenance and still had no luck... My symptoms are getting gradually worse (rough idle getting worse as the car was being driven, hesitation during acceleration and jump RPM's would jump around during acceleration and changing gears) This time also as I would come up to speed and kinda have to floor the gas to do so, and the check engine light started to flash (type A misfire). I also smelled some something that didnt smell like gas or "rotten eggs" but more like the aftersmell of fireworks/smokebombs...
After this I did some more troubleshooting with a can of starter fluid and I noticed it made my EGR valve act funky... So that was taken off cleaned (looked to be functioning fine) and put back on... I also decided to replace the rest of the coil packs because I know they are all known to go bad... I also addressed a small vacuum leak. Also I added tranny fluid (it was fairly low) and a bottle of lucas oil tranny additive.
After doing this my car started up and ran idle beautifully and I took it for a test drive... It drove great for about twenty minutes unlike the other times I replaced things and it would start acting up after about two minutes of driving... So I stopped by my mechanics house and told him I though I got to the bottom of it... when I took off to go home it started acting up right away... rough during idle (but not as bad as pre coil pack changes) still hesitation during acceleration especially in the low RPM and... It went away after driving it some more and then came back even worse... I would put the pedal all way to the floor and almost got no acceleration... My RPM would also kick up for a spllit second then fall back down and I was puttering up my driveway... at this point there is No check engine light... and NO FLASHING when I drove the car up to higher speeds... but did smell of something like what fireworks smell like when they get set off
IM LOST AND TERRIBLY FRUSTRATED
please dont be afraid to give a lengthy detailed answer of why I am stupid
08-28-2012 | 07:26 PM
#8685
P1105 - (A) MAP/BARO switch solenoid valve receives the voltage supplied though ECM does not supply the voltage to the valve.
-or- (B) There is little difference between MAP/BARO switch solenoid valve input voltage at ambient barometric pressure and that at intake manifold pressure.
* Harness or connectors (MAP/BARO switch solenoid valve circuit is open or shorted.)
* Hoses (Hoses are clogged or disconnected.)
* Absolute pressure sensor
* MAP/BARO switch solenoid valve
P1130 - (A) An improper voltage signal is sent to ECM through swirl control valve control solenoid valve,
(B) The vacuum signal is not sent to swirl control valve under specified driving conditions, even though swirl control valve control solenoid valve is ON,
(C) The vacuum signal is sent to swirl control valve even though swirl control valve control solenoid valve is OFF
(A)
* Harness or connectors (The swirl control valve control solenoid valve circuit is open or shorted.)
* Swirl control valve control solenoid valve
(B)
* Harness or connector (The swirl control valve control solenoid valve circuit is open.)
* Swirl control valve control solenoid valve
* Intake system (Intake air leaks)
* Hoses and tubes between intake manifold, vacuum tank and swirl control valve actuator
* Swirl control valve actuator
* Swirl control valve control vacuum check switch
* Mass air flow sensor
* Crankshaft position sensor (REF)
* Throttle position sensor
(C)
* Harness or connector (The swirl control valve control solenoid valve circuit is shorted.)
* Swirl control valve control vacuum check switch
* Crankshaft position sensor (REF)
* Throttle position sensor
* Hoses and tubes between air cleaner and swirl control valve vacuum check switch
* Swirl control valve control solenoid valve
P1320 - The ignition signal in the primary circuit is not entered
during engine cranking or running.
* Power transistor unit built into ignition coil
* Condenser
* Crankshaft position sensor (REF)
* Crankshaft position sensor (REF) circuit
* Harness or connectors (The ignition primary circuit is open or shorted.)
2 of the 3 codes list the crankshaft position sensor (REF) as a possible cause. I suggest you check this. The engine has 2 crankshaft sensors, (REF) and (POS). The (POS) sensor is at the flywheel and the (REF) sensor is at the crankshaft pulley. When you change the oil, you can see the (REF) sensor at the 4 o'clock position. You can unplug it and check it for resistance (470 to 570 ohms) and make sure that the area around the tip is clean. It is easy to take off, just 2 bolts.
The P1105 I think is a separate issue but I don't believe it is the cause of your idle problem.
The smell you get is an engine running too lean - result of your problems.
Do you have a FSM? You can download one here. The 3 codes you listed are explained in the EC section. Look in the index and click on the page number.
http://boredmder.com/FSMs/Nissan/Maxima/
08-28-2012 | 07:39 PM
#8686
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 12
From: San Rafael, Ca
This is my story I have been going through alot of troubleshooting to get down to the problem and I am still having problems... I have a 1999 Nissan Maxima GLE
About a month ago I started experiencing some chugging with what seemed like some misfiring and general rough driveability. I could smell gas every now and then some other wierd smells every so ofter. This was very intermittent at first but as it continued to get worse I decided to have it all checked out. I pulled a "misfire cylinder 5" code and a manufacturers code that my mechanic did not know what it was.
At this point I changed all my spark plugs, and a coil pack on cylinder 5 and the problem did not fix itself... This was still an intermittent problem until a week or so later when the rough during idle started to get gradually worse, at this I point I also started to experience some hesitation during acceleration and my rpm would stick in first gear until I got up to speed and it would sort of go away...
After words I decided to have the codes pulled on a better scanner and this is what came up... P1105/P1130/P1320
I then had the codes cleared and I replaced intake gasket and plenum gasket. When I checked out the cylinder 5 I saw there was a bent prong so I took it back to autozone and had it replaced with a new one... and I replaced the muffler (which was starting to get loud)
Then I used a can of seafoam, Throttle body cleaner, gas supplements, changed the MAP sensor and did some other routine cleaning and maintenance and still had no luck... My symptoms are getting gradually worse (rough idle getting worse as the car was being driven, hesitation during acceleration and jump RPM's would jump around during acceleration and changing gears) This time also as I would come up to speed and kinda have to floor the gas to do so, and the check engine light started to flash (type A misfire). I also smelled some something that didnt smell like gas or "rotten eggs" but more like the aftersmell of fireworks/smokebombs...
After this I did some more troubleshooting with a can of starter fluid and I noticed it made my EGR valve act funky... So that was taken off cleaned (looked to be functioning fine) and put back on... I also decided to replace the rest of the coil packs because I know they are all known to go bad... I also addressed a small vacuum leak. Also I added tranny fluid (it was fairly low) and a bottle of lucas oil tranny additive.
After doing this my car started up and ran idle beautifully and I took it for a test drive... It drove great for about twenty minutes unlike the other times I replaced things and it would start acting up after about two minutes of driving... So I stopped by my mechanics house and told him I though I got to the bottom of it... when I took off to go home it started acting up right away... rough during idle (but not as bad as pre coil pack changes) still hesitation during acceleration especially in the low RPM and... It went away after driving it some more and then came back even worse... I would put the pedal all way to the floor and almost got no acceleration... My RPM would also kick up for a spllit second then fall back down and I was puttering up my driveway... at this point there is No check engine light... and NO FLASHING when I drove the car up to higher speeds... but did smell of something like what fireworks smell like when they get set off
IM LOST AND TERRIBLY FRUSTRATED
please dont be afraid to give a lengthy detailed answer of why I am stupid
About a month ago I started experiencing some chugging with what seemed like some misfiring and general rough driveability. I could smell gas every now and then some other wierd smells every so ofter. This was very intermittent at first but as it continued to get worse I decided to have it all checked out. I pulled a "misfire cylinder 5" code and a manufacturers code that my mechanic did not know what it was.
At this point I changed all my spark plugs, and a coil pack on cylinder 5 and the problem did not fix itself... This was still an intermittent problem until a week or so later when the rough during idle started to get gradually worse, at this I point I also started to experience some hesitation during acceleration and my rpm would stick in first gear until I got up to speed and it would sort of go away...
After words I decided to have the codes pulled on a better scanner and this is what came up... P1105/P1130/P1320
I then had the codes cleared and I replaced intake gasket and plenum gasket. When I checked out the cylinder 5 I saw there was a bent prong so I took it back to autozone and had it replaced with a new one... and I replaced the muffler (which was starting to get loud)
Then I used a can of seafoam, Throttle body cleaner, gas supplements, changed the MAP sensor and did some other routine cleaning and maintenance and still had no luck... My symptoms are getting gradually worse (rough idle getting worse as the car was being driven, hesitation during acceleration and jump RPM's would jump around during acceleration and changing gears) This time also as I would come up to speed and kinda have to floor the gas to do so, and the check engine light started to flash (type A misfire). I also smelled some something that didnt smell like gas or "rotten eggs" but more like the aftersmell of fireworks/smokebombs...
After this I did some more troubleshooting with a can of starter fluid and I noticed it made my EGR valve act funky... So that was taken off cleaned (looked to be functioning fine) and put back on... I also decided to replace the rest of the coil packs because I know they are all known to go bad... I also addressed a small vacuum leak. Also I added tranny fluid (it was fairly low) and a bottle of lucas oil tranny additive.
After doing this my car started up and ran idle beautifully and I took it for a test drive... It drove great for about twenty minutes unlike the other times I replaced things and it would start acting up after about two minutes of driving... So I stopped by my mechanics house and told him I though I got to the bottom of it... when I took off to go home it started acting up right away... rough during idle (but not as bad as pre coil pack changes) still hesitation during acceleration especially in the low RPM and... It went away after driving it some more and then came back even worse... I would put the pedal all way to the floor and almost got no acceleration... My RPM would also kick up for a spllit second then fall back down and I was puttering up my driveway... at this point there is No check engine light... and NO FLASHING when I drove the car up to higher speeds... but did smell of something like what fireworks smell like when they get set off
IM LOST AND TERRIBLY FRUSTRATED
please dont be afraid to give a lengthy detailed answer of why I am stupid
08-29-2012 | 09:02 AM
#8687
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 1
I also have stuttering problems, but I get the codes P0300 and P1320
I have known that I had ignition coil problems about a year ago but they have recently become far more problematic. The engine stutters all the time, instead of on occasion (typically when it was hot) and I have had a significant loss in acceleration power - which I've had before, but flooring the gas pedal more typically fixed the problem.
I've talked to an Autozone guy that seemed reasonable and said I should start with cleaning my intake with seafoam. Otherwise, if it's not an ignition coil problem then it could be my cam sensor going out of whack. My mechanic has not been of much help as he told me to drive around until it gives me the code for a particular ignition coil.
I've read that people suggest unplugging ignition coils while in idle to see which ones are out, but the Autozone guy mentioned that it may be risky, depending on how many burned out ignition coils I have. Supposedly it can blow my engine if I put too much pressure on too few coils. From what I understand I just unplug them and see if the engine reacts at all - if it stutters more, then the coil is good. If not, it's bad. Is that about right? I'd really like to fix this problem asap cause I have to pass emissions soon...
I have known that I had ignition coil problems about a year ago but they have recently become far more problematic. The engine stutters all the time, instead of on occasion (typically when it was hot) and I have had a significant loss in acceleration power - which I've had before, but flooring the gas pedal more typically fixed the problem.
I've talked to an Autozone guy that seemed reasonable and said I should start with cleaning my intake with seafoam. Otherwise, if it's not an ignition coil problem then it could be my cam sensor going out of whack. My mechanic has not been of much help as he told me to drive around until it gives me the code for a particular ignition coil.
I've read that people suggest unplugging ignition coils while in idle to see which ones are out, but the Autozone guy mentioned that it may be risky, depending on how many burned out ignition coils I have. Supposedly it can blow my engine if I put too much pressure on too few coils. From what I understand I just unplug them and see if the engine reacts at all - if it stutters more, then the coil is good. If not, it's bad. Is that about right? I'd really like to fix this problem asap cause I have to pass emissions soon...
08-30-2012 | 12:20 AM
#8688
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 2
I have a 1999 maxima SE. I have owned the car for a few years and the rear door locks and rear windows have never worked. I tried a new drivers side switch, but it did not correct the issue. I have checked the fuses as it seems like it would be fuse related; but the fuses are all sound. there may be a relay for this but i have not found it, and the relay box i found under the hood does not explicitly mention this circuit.
Other things not working that may or not be related are the heated seats, and the cigarette lighter. Not sure it is relevant , but if they are somehow on the same circuit someone might see a connection. I have found other threads with semi similar problems, but none have a solution, were different, or people just stopped posting in the thread.
Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance
Other things not working that may or not be related are the heated seats, and the cigarette lighter. Not sure it is relevant , but if they are somehow on the same circuit someone might see a connection. I have found other threads with semi similar problems, but none have a solution, were different, or people just stopped posting in the thread.
Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance
08-30-2012 | 09:37 AM
#8689
I have a 1999 maxima SE. I have owned the car for a few years and the rear door locks and rear windows have never worked. I tried a new drivers side switch, but it did not correct the issue. I have checked the fuses as it seems like it would be fuse related; but the fuses are all sound. there may be a relay for this but i have not found it, and the relay box i found under the hood does not explicitly mention this circuit.
Other things not working that may or not be related are the heated seats, and the cigarette lighter. Not sure it is relevant , but if they are somehow on the same circuit someone might see a connection. I have found other threads with semi similar problems, but none have a solution, were different, or people just stopped posting in the thread.
Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance
Other things not working that may or not be related are the heated seats, and the cigarette lighter. Not sure it is relevant , but if they are somehow on the same circuit someone might see a connection. I have found other threads with semi similar problems, but none have a solution, were different, or people just stopped posting in the thread.
Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance
The only thing that is in common with the heated seats and windows/locks is the wire harness. It could be damaged. The harness runs down along the driver's side outside on the floor. But I don't think the cigarette lighter wire is in the same harness as the doors and seats. The harness is enclosed in a plastic channel for protection, so it would take some force to damage it, like a car accident maybe?
Let's talk windows and door locks. The power for the windows and locks comes from the same source, Circuit Breaker #2. Since the front windows work, the circuit breaker is good. The windows and locks are computerized. There are 2 data busses that carry the commands, one for the left side and one for the right side of the car. A data buss controlls the front and rear door for its assigned side. The microprocessor that controlls the data busses is in the BCM (Body Control Module). The BCM is mounted on the so called "transmission hump" forward of the shift lever below the radio. It is possible that this is the problem but this is not much better than an educated guess. Disconnect the wire harness from a rear door window switch. Check for 12 volts on the white/red stripe wire (one of the corners). There is a black wire in the same row, second from the opposite end that is ground. Measure the voltage between the white/red and black wires. It is possible you have a bad switch. It would be unusual to have 2.
Heated seats - A heated seat consists of 2 sections, the seat back and the seat bottom. It is a heating pad and heating pads burn out. But all 4? Not that likely. Both seats get power from the same fuse, #29 (fuse panel, right column, 3rd from bottom). Start by pulling out a switch and see if you have 12 volts on the white wire when the ignition switch is in the ON position, not the ACC position. There is a black wire that is ground. Measure the voltage between the 2 wires.
Cigarette lighter - This gets its power from fuse #6 (fuse panel, left column, 6th from bottom). Check for 12 volts on the orange wire with the ignition switch in the ON or ACC position. The other wire is black and this is ground Measure between the 2 wires. If you have 12 volts, you need a new cigarette lighter.
Try these basic basic troubleshooting steps and see what you have.
08-30-2012 | 01:25 PM
#8690
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 23
From: Monterrey, Mexico
Hi everyone!, I´m back, I have some trubles with my max, the "service engine soon" light is on, since 2 months ago, when it started I went to the autozone to scan the car and they give me the code numbers P0325 and P1320, some days after this the car started to fail, I checked it and found an ignition coil damaged, then the fail dissapear, a week later the "service engine soon" light keeps on, then I get the car with a person that can erase the codes, and he did it but the light back again showing the same codes, the codes are not erased and there is another problem that i saw the past weekend when I stopped on a gas station and saw that the gas was dripping from the water separator near the EVAP canister, and today that I refill the gas tank, saw the drips by the same place, this is normal? or does it has relation with the codes? what do I have to do? because also I see an increase in the gas consumption, please some body tell me what and how to start to revise it!
09-05-2012 | 02:31 PM
#8691
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 3
New 99 GLE Owner
Greetings everyone. I am the proud new owner of a 99 GLE with 150,000 on it. When I test drove the car I noticed an odd shimmy/vibration in the steering wheel that occurs when accelerating. The transmission also shifts hard sometimes, giving me a thump I feel under my feet and in the steering wheel. Already had a busted tie rod replaced and that helped about 10% so I'm thinking this may be the transmission. The interior of the car is so imaculate I could tell the car was taken care of so for 3 grand I figured I could use the extra money I saved to track down the source of the shake/vibration. This is my third Nissan, having owned an 83 280ZX and a 93 300ZX before. Any help is appreciated. I also have the classic air bag light going on and code it spits out is side airbags. I think I'm just going to leave it, as I've already gotten used to the light and it doesn't bother me.
09-05-2012 | 05:43 PM
#8692
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 1,528
From: Maine
Greetings everyone. I am the proud new owner of a 99 GLE with 150,000 on it. When I test drove the car I noticed an odd shimmy/vibration in the steering wheel that occurs when accelerating. The transmission also shifts hard sometimes, giving me a thump I feel under my feet and in the steering wheel. Already had a busted tie rod replaced and that helped about 10% so I'm thinking this may be the transmission. The interior of the car is so imaculate I could tell the car was taken care of so for 3 grand I figured I could use the extra money I saved to track down the source of the shake/vibration. This is my third Nissan, having owned an 83 280ZX and a 93 300ZX before. Any help is appreciated. I also have the classic air bag light going on and code it spits out is side airbags. I think I'm just going to leave it, as I've already gotten used to the light and it doesn't bother me.
09-08-2012 | 01:23 PM
#8693
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 3
Thank you for the response. My mechanic has had the car twice now for brake pads and tie rod end. Im assuming that would be something visible with the wheels off the car, but I will check into it for sure. I have since added Lucas slip fix and it has made a noticeable difference on the hard shifting, but I feel like something is going on in the tranny and will have to be delt with at some point.
09-09-2012 | 06:09 PM
#8695
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 9
Let me start by defining the codes that you got -
2of the 3 codes list the crankshaft position sensor (REF) as a possible cause. I suggest you check this. The engine has 2 crankshaft sensors, (REF) and (POS). The (POS) sensor is at the flywheel and the (REF) sensor is at the crankshaft pulley. When you change the oil, you can see the (REF) sensor at the 4 o'clock position. You can unplug it and check it for resistance (470 to 570 ohms) and make sure that the area around the tip is clean. It is easy to take off, just 2 bolts.
The P1105 I think is a separate issue but I don't believe it is the cause of your idle problem.
The smell you get is an engine running too lean - result of your problems.
Do you have a FSM? You can download one here. The 3 codes you listed are explained in the EC section. Look in the index and click on the page number.
http://boredmder.com/FSMs/Nissan/Maxima/
2of the 3 codes list the crankshaft position sensor (REF) as a possible cause. I suggest you check this. The engine has 2 crankshaft sensors, (REF) and (POS). The (POS) sensor is at the flywheel and the (REF) sensor is at the crankshaft pulley. When you change the oil, you can see the (REF) sensor at the 4 o'clock position. You can unplug it and check it for resistance (470 to 570 ohms) and make sure that the area around the tip is clean. It is easy to take off, just 2 bolts.
The P1105 I think is a separate issue but I don't believe it is the cause of your idle problem.
The smell you get is an engine running too lean - result of your problems.
Do you have a FSM? You can download one here. The 3 codes you listed are explained in the EC section. Look in the index and click on the page number.
http://boredmder.com/FSMs/Nissan/Maxima/
they told me i had a bad coil and i took it back to autozone had it replaced... they also fixed a hose problem somewhere in the intake manifold... and said my CAT's were starting to plug and there was a big piece lodged in a valve which they cleared... Car was running pretty after that... but after a little while of driving I felt the misfire on idle a little bit but not as bad... and once in a while I would get some hesitation during accelerration... they told me this would stop once I changed my defective coil
09-09-2012 | 09:45 PM
#8696
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 3
Looking at doing the water pump replacement on our 96 and would like to replace timing chain tensioner as well. Want to go OEM, particularly on the pump. Rockauto lists Bosch as the OEM pump but I can't find any confirmation in the threads. Second, there appears to be 4 different TC tensioners? Rockauto lists a Beck/Arnley "outer chain" Part # 0241181, and Cloyes "Left upper" "Right Upper" and "Right Lower", all with Engine Code VQ30DE. Would someone confirm the correct part for the job? And are these TC tensioners OEM?
09-12-2012 | 06:12 AM
#8697
I'm stuck and need help.
I have a 96 GLE. 218,000 miles.
My issue is this. If I take off from a dead stop faster then a 115 year old woman. My RPM's drop to around 200-300 and I can't move. After it starts doing that letting off the gas or putting it to the floor does nothing. It has to catch itself and stop. But if I try to take off again faster then grandma. It starts all over.
Next. Once I'm actually able to leave the stop, as I'm gaining speed I feel a forward jerking motion and kind of a slow climb compared to before this started.
At first this wasn't that big an issue. Now it's just annoying. I'm down to 12 mpg, no take off, and really a nerve racker.
Things I've done.
Clean intake manifold
Clean egr valve tube
Clean IACV
Changed tps helped a little
If I pull a small vacuum line off the under side of the intake or cut a hole in the line on to in the rear center of the intake it's a lot better. Just don't want trash to get in those lines and I want it to be fixed right. Neither of these things help my gas mileage and that's what bothers me the most.
Please help
Hole in my pocket.
I have a 96 GLE. 218,000 miles.
My issue is this. If I take off from a dead stop faster then a 115 year old woman. My RPM's drop to around 200-300 and I can't move. After it starts doing that letting off the gas or putting it to the floor does nothing. It has to catch itself and stop. But if I try to take off again faster then grandma. It starts all over.
Next. Once I'm actually able to leave the stop, as I'm gaining speed I feel a forward jerking motion and kind of a slow climb compared to before this started.
At first this wasn't that big an issue. Now it's just annoying. I'm down to 12 mpg, no take off, and really a nerve racker.
Things I've done.
Clean intake manifold
Clean egr valve tube
Clean IACV
Changed tps helped a little
If I pull a small vacuum line off the under side of the intake or cut a hole in the line on to in the rear center of the intake it's a lot better. Just don't want trash to get in those lines and I want it to be fixed right. Neither of these things help my gas mileage and that's what bothers me the most.
Please help
Hole in my pocket.
09-17-2012 | 04:55 PM
#8699
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 11
I'm having an aggravating problem with my keyless entry on my 1996 GLE. With either locking or unlocking, I now have to hold the button for about 5 seconds before it works. I don't have a good theory on what would cause such a delay. I tried replacing the battery in the remote, but that didn't help. I would appreciate some suggestions.
09-18-2012 | 09:42 AM
#8700
I'm having an aggravating problem with my keyless entry on my 1996 GLE. With either locking or unlocking, I now have to hold the button for about 5 seconds before it works. I don't have a good theory on what would cause such a delay. I tried replacing the battery in the remote, but that didn't help. I would appreciate some suggestions.
Open up the remote, remove the battery and the little printed circuit board. You can clean the crud out from the plastic membrane and off of the printed circuit board with rubbing alcohol and a toothbrush.
09-18-2012 | 09:49 AM
#8701
It may be the remote itself. The remote tends to build up a lot of crud under the plastic buttons that you press and interferes with the actual switch being pressed.
Open up the remote, remove the battery and the little printed circuit board. You can clean the crud out from the plastic membrane and off of the printed circuit board with rubbing alcohol and a toothbrush.
Open up the remote, remove the battery and the little printed circuit board. You can clean the crud out from the plastic membrane and off of the printed circuit board with rubbing alcohol and a toothbrush.
Also, if you know how to solder, it is worth it to touch up the solder on the connection points on the PCB. I did this for a coworker's fob that was going out, losing range, etc and worked like a charm.
09-25-2012 | 11:09 AM
#8702
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 7
Won't go above 2000 rpms
I apologize in advance if I posted this in the wrong place, I'm an extreme newbie. I have searched around the forums and have not come to a conclusion.
This is my issue and everything I know about it:
Yesterday on my drive home my car just stopped going above 2000 rpms. If i try to push it the car sort of shakes and won't push past.
I have read about the maf being a issue, I did however disconnect it and then rev to see if I could go past the 2000 and i still couldn't, does that indicate it not being maf?
My roommate who is also on here (nismoeugi I believe is his name) says maybe temp sensor? But I stopped at a garage and they told me that shouldn't stop it from revving past 2000.
Only other info is that while I'm driving it for a while the overheating needle goes almost all the way up but as soon as I slow down it goes back to normal. I also just put coolant in today. Any ideas? Thanks guys!
Completely forgot to mention I have a 95 automatic.
This is my issue and everything I know about it:
Yesterday on my drive home my car just stopped going above 2000 rpms. If i try to push it the car sort of shakes and won't push past.
I have read about the maf being a issue, I did however disconnect it and then rev to see if I could go past the 2000 and i still couldn't, does that indicate it not being maf?
My roommate who is also on here (nismoeugi I believe is his name) says maybe temp sensor? But I stopped at a garage and they told me that shouldn't stop it from revving past 2000.
Only other info is that while I'm driving it for a while the overheating needle goes almost all the way up but as soon as I slow down it goes back to normal. I also just put coolant in today. Any ideas? Thanks guys!
Completely forgot to mention I have a 95 automatic.
Last edited by Hat1926; 09-25-2012 at 11:11 AM. Reason: Forgot car information.
09-25-2012 | 11:15 AM
#8703
I apologize in advance if I posted this in the wrong place, I'm an extreme newbie. I have searched around the forums and have not come to a conclusion.
This is my issue and everything I know about it:
Yesterday on my drive home my car just stopped going above 2000 rpms. If i try to push it the car sort of shakes and won't push past.
I have read about the maf being a issue, I did however disconnect it and then rev to see if I could go past the 2000 and i still couldn't, does that indicate it not being maf?
My roommate who is also on here (nismoeugi I believe is his name) says maybe temp sensor? But I stopped at a garage and they told me that shouldn't stop it from revving past 2000.
Only other info is that while I'm driving it for a while the overheating needle goes almost all the way up but as soon as I slow down it goes back to normal. I also just put coolant in today. Any ideas? Thanks guys!
Completely forgot to mention I have a 95 automatic.
This is my issue and everything I know about it:
Yesterday on my drive home my car just stopped going above 2000 rpms. If i try to push it the car sort of shakes and won't push past.
I have read about the maf being a issue, I did however disconnect it and then rev to see if I could go past the 2000 and i still couldn't, does that indicate it not being maf?
My roommate who is also on here (nismoeugi I believe is his name) says maybe temp sensor? But I stopped at a garage and they told me that shouldn't stop it from revving past 2000.
Only other info is that while I'm driving it for a while the overheating needle goes almost all the way up but as soon as I slow down it goes back to normal. I also just put coolant in today. Any ideas? Thanks guys!
Completely forgot to mention I have a 95 automatic.
MAF. Get yourself some CRC band MAF cleaner (aerosol) and spray the MAF. Let dry, and reinstall.
Has the system been bled properly? Are you actually overheating, or is your car lying to you? Feel both radiator hoses...top and bottom. Are both hot?
09-26-2012 | 02:24 PM
#8704
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 3
Greetings everyone. I am the proud new owner of a 99 GLE with 150,000 on it. When I test drove the car I noticed an odd shimmy/vibration in the steering wheel that occurs when accelerating. The transmission also shifts hard sometimes, giving me a thump I feel under my feet and in the steering wheel. Already had a busted tie rod replaced and that helped about 10% so I'm thinking this may be the transmission. The interior of the car is so imaculate I could tell the car was taken care of so for 3 grand I figured I could use the extra money I saved to track down the source of the shake/vibration. This is my third Nissan, having owned an 83 280ZX and a 93 300ZX before. Any help is appreciated. I also have the classic air bag light going on and code it spits out is side airbags. I think I'm just going to leave it, as I've already gotten used to the light and it doesn't bother me.
So 2brosgixxer, its looking like you were right about the CV axles! Thanks man.
09-26-2012 | 05:24 PM
#8705
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 1,528
From: Maine
UPDATE: Took the car to Firestone since my mechanic is pretty much a fix it guy only. I figured taking it to a corporate place to have it diagnosed would work because they damn sure want your money. They said the CV axles were busted and the inner left tie rod end was as well (already had the outer replaced). So with that news I took the car to my guy and had him change my CV axles. He only changed the driver side today as he had to order the passenger side (that he said was WAY more messed up than the drivers) and man I am excited! With just the drivers side replaced the shake is 80% gone! I've got my fingers crossed on the passenger side fixing the rest of it. My guy said the amount of play from the busted inner tie rod is barely a wiggle and thinks it is not involved and doesn't even think I should worry with it. Firestone said the way the car shifts they believe the torque converter to be going out.
So 2brosgixxer, its looking like you were right about the CV axles! Thanks man.
So 2brosgixxer, its looking like you were right about the CV axles! Thanks man.
09-27-2012 | 05:07 PM
#8706
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 7
So cleaned it that didn't do anything then put a new maf on and still same problem, any other ideas?
09-27-2012 | 06:50 PM
#8707
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 1
From: Colorado
Hey guys, this is my first post and a question too.
I live in Colorado where the weather is a little unpredictable and gets wet a lot. I was considering putting some mudflaps on my Maxima. Was wondering if anyone has done this and how easy it is to do. I was considering getting these: They seem a little cheap but I didn't see any others that looked like the went specifically for my car.
And tips or suggestions on the matter?
I live in Colorado where the weather is a little unpredictable and gets wet a lot. I was considering putting some mudflaps on my Maxima. Was wondering if anyone has done this and how easy it is to do. I was considering getting these: They seem a little cheap but I didn't see any others that looked like the went specifically for my car.
And tips or suggestions on the matter?
09-27-2012 | 08:37 PM
#8708
Hey guys, this is my first post and a question too.
I live in Colorado where the weather is a little unpredictable and gets wet a lot. I was considering putting some mudflaps on my Maxima. Was wondering if anyone has done this and how easy it is to do. I was considering getting these: http://www.amazon.com/Power-Flow-Mud...xima+mud+flapsThey seem a little cheap but I didn't see any others that looked like the went specifically for my car.
And tips or suggestions on the matter?
I live in Colorado where the weather is a little unpredictable and gets wet a lot. I was considering putting some mudflaps on my Maxima. Was wondering if anyone has done this and how easy it is to do. I was considering getting these: http://www.amazon.com/Power-Flow-Mud...xima+mud+flapsThey seem a little cheap but I didn't see any others that looked like the went specifically for my car.
And tips or suggestions on the matter?
And they're splash guards, not mudflaps
09-27-2012 | 08:38 PM
#8709
09-28-2012 | 03:19 AM
#8710
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 7
09-28-2012 | 11:33 PM
#8711
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 7
update.. i did the ecu reset with the screwdriver.. was able to go above 2000 rpm.. i believe now that it is an overheating problem as a result of me puttin coolant in and a few hours later it being empty.. my guess is.. leak and then overheat.. ecu put into fail safe mode.. etc..
09-29-2012 | 01:45 PM
#8712
update.. i did the ecu reset with the screwdriver.. was able to go above 2000 rpm.. i believe now that it is an overheating problem as a result of me puttin coolant in and a few hours later it being empty.. my guess is.. leak and then overheat.. ecu put into fail safe mode.. etc..
Do you know where the coolant leak is at?
09-30-2012 | 10:27 AM
#8713
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 7
not yet, might have some time today or tomorrow to try and locate the leak. keep you guys updated, and thanks again guys for all the help!
10-02-2012 | 01:29 PM
#8714
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 1
Hello to everyone first off and maybe I'm not looking hard enough but I can't seem to find a complete write up with photos, or just a complete writeup on the 00v1 intake swap for my fourth Gen maxima. I currently have a 95 Nissan maxima 5 speed, and I'm planning on using the intake off of an 01 maxima. Any and all help very much appreciated as I'm looking to do this swap asap. Thanks in advance
10-02-2012 | 07:05 PM
#8716
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 1,528
From: Maine
Hello to everyone first off and maybe I'm not looking hard enough but I can't seem to find a complete write up with photos, or just a complete writeup on the 00v1 intake swap for my fourth Gen maxima. I currently have a 95 Nissan maxima 5 speed, and I'm planning on using the intake off of an 01 maxima. Any and all help very much appreciated as I'm looking to do this swap asap. Thanks in advance
10-08-2012 | 09:36 AM
#8717
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 1
Custom Headlights?I live on the East Coast and own a 1999 GLE Maxima. Where is the b
Newbie here:
I live on the East Coast and own a 1999 GLE Maxima. Where is the best place to get Custom Headlights for this car? Links and or phone numbers appreciated very much. Please email me the info: wiztim2001@yahoo.com
I live on the East Coast and own a 1999 GLE Maxima. Where is the best place to get Custom Headlights for this car? Links and or phone numbers appreciated very much. Please email me the info: wiztim2001@yahoo.com
Last edited by Max '99; 10-08-2012 at 09:39 AM.
10-08-2012 | 02:02 PM
#8718
Radiator question...
i've been wondering (might be a stupid idea/question) but can a smaller radiator be used in our cars? i'm trying to start "cleaning" up the bay and this is one of the issue/idea that has come accross my mind. at the moment i'm running one fan due to the oem fans being expensive and its been working fine (unless i'm at a stop for more than 20min) but it doesnt over heat. will the smaller radiator be not big enough? since i'm running one fan (for 4yrs) and not really any problems, i figure it'll be some what of the same concept. would this work? i'm prepared to see some insults as well as an answer (if there is one)
10-08-2012 | 06:53 PM
#8719
If you change to a smaller radiator, you would lose cooling capacity when the car is moving. You say that the engine will run warm if at idle because the one fan you have is not enough. Well, when the car starts moving, it is the air flowing through the radiator section that is not covered by a fan that cools the engine down. If you were to use a radiator the size of the fan, I don't think the engine would ever cool down.
Quit trying to cheap out. Get the nissan fans and you can idle all day, year around. I sit in stop and go traffic with the a/c on with 105+ degree days and the coolant temperature on both my 97 and 2000 regulate between 198 and 202 degrees. The Nissan cooling system works well.
Quit trying to cheap out. Get the nissan fans and you can idle all day, year around. I sit in stop and go traffic with the a/c on with 105+ degree days and the coolant temperature on both my 97 and 2000 regulate between 198 and 202 degrees. The Nissan cooling system works well.
10-10-2012 | 11:45 AM
#8720
If you change to a smaller radiator, you would lose cooling capacity when the car is moving. You say that the engine will run warm if at idle because the one fan you have is not enough. Well, when the car starts moving, it is the air flowing through the radiator section that is not covered by a fan that cools the engine down. If you were to use a radiator the size of the fan, I don't think the engine would ever cool down.
Quit trying to cheap out. Get the nissan fans and you can idle all day, year around. I sit in stop and go traffic with the a/c on with 105+ degree days and the coolant temperature on both my 97 and 2000 regulate between 198 and 202 degrees. The Nissan cooling system works well.
Quit trying to cheap out. Get the nissan fans and you can idle all day, year around. I sit in stop and go traffic with the a/c on with 105+ degree days and the coolant temperature on both my 97 and 2000 regulate between 198 and 202 degrees. The Nissan cooling system works well.
thanx for the input