Hoses are cheap. Replace 'em.

 

I have two vibrations I'm trying to diagnose and would appreciate your help.

1: Vibration when in gear (automatic)

I have a 99 Auto, and I have a slight shudder/vibration when in Reverse or Drive, but not in Park or Neutral. It happens when I'm stopped, but if it continues while accelerating it's unnoticeable. When it happens and I'm looking under the hood I notice the engine slowly shaking (not violently). Is this a sign of a bad motor mount or tranny mount? I'm not very auto-savy so I haven't been able to diagnose it myself. I took it to a mechanic that I've liked in the past, and he claimed it was due to a bad bushing on the front suspension A-arm, but this seems an unlikely culprit to me unless the tranny is somehow mounted to the same point?

2: Fan vibration

I also recently (within a month or two of getting the first vibration) have started getting a bad vibration at the fan/radiator. It used to be intermittent, and would stop if I turned the car off and back on. But, now, it happens every time I turn the car on. I can hear the fan slowing to a stop when I turn the car off. I've felt around and can't see anything the fan is hitting. One of the fans seems to have a lot of play (more than the other), so I'm guessing this is what's making the noise, and possible causing the vibration (like an out of whack ceiling fan) but would a slightly loose fan cause that much vibration? Could this be tied to the first vibration and thus a single issue such as a motor mount? I've looked at the motor mounts I can see at the top of the engine and they look OK, but honestly I'm not really sure how to tell if they are shot or not.

EDIT: I'm attempting to disconnect the fan that I think is out of balance, but I can't seem to figure out how to unplug it. Is there a secret to unhooking the tab that keeps the plug together?

EDIT2: OK, I figured out how to unplug the fan that I thought was causing the vibration (I had to watch a youtube video on how to replace the radiator, I told you I wasn't auto-savy) and lo and behold the rattle went away. I rehooked up the fan, and tried running the engine with the AC off and that also worked, so I at least figured out how to drive the car around while waiting for a new fan assembly. So I think this issue is solved.

I've searched and only come up with people having issues with standard transmissions, and nothing on the loose fan, so I'm sorry if these end up being common issues that I missed.

 

Where is the best place to start as far as running my exhaust for a front mounted turbo, any pre fabs? Im guessing im gonna ha e to chop up and existing manifold and weld it up, I have searched numurous times but still no definitive answer. Sorry if you think this is a stupid question haha


Posted from Maxima.org App for Android

 

Where is the best place to start as far as running my exhaust for a front mounted turbo, any pre fabs? Im guessing im gonna ha e to chop up and existing manifold and weld it up, I have searched numurous times but still no definitive answer. Sorry if you think this is a stupid question haha


Posted from Maxima.org App for Android

 

Where is the best place to start as far as running my exhaust for a front mounted turbo, any pre fabs? Im guessing im gonna ha e to chop up and existing manifold and weld it up, I have searched numurous times but still no definitive answer. Sorry if you think this is a stupid question haha


Posted from Maxima.org App for Android

 

Good job man. Report back if you have any further issues.

 

turbo is a custom setup man. the only FI kit for the max is the stillen supercharger kit which is discontinued

 

I have a 99 Maxima and it will crank but wont start. My spark plugs are damp and I smell gas. What are the possible problems?

 

FIRST AND FOREMOST... when you try to start the car, is the little red SECURITY light to the left of the steering wheel ON SOLID or flashing?

If its solid, your immobilizer is acting up and you need to get your NATS system reprogrammed.

 

So, after fixing my overheating problem a few weeks ago (radiator replacement) I noticed that my radiator fans come on at the high speed while at idle and with the A/C on. It's really not a big deal as the engine is no longer overheating, but it's somewhat irritating to have my fans on full speed when I'm just stopped at a light. Sounds like I have a microwave cooking a bean burrito in my engine bay. I realize that the fans should be on when the A/C is on, but I'm sure they shouldn't be at high speed. The only thing I can think of is that while trying to fix my overheating, I replaced the thermostat with one from oreilly auto rather than OEM (I know, if it could do it again I'd have bought it at the dealership). While the "Murray" brand stat is supposed to open at 180 F according to the store website, and I know the OEM should open around 182, is there any chance that its opening at too high of a temperature causing the fans to come on high at idle? I should also add that with the A/C off, the fan shuts off like normal. Maybe its an electrical issue.

Thanks for all replies

David

 

Fans runs in high speed whenever the AC is on and ECT is above 95 degrees. It's normal.



Ignore the 'non California' information, that's just for 95/96. 97 uses the Cali spec chart.

 

Well I guess the mig welder and pipe Bender are coming out... Was just trying to save myself some hasle


Posted from Maxima.org App for Android

 

Well I guess the mig welder and pipe Bender ars comimg out... Was just trying to save myself some hastle


Posted from Maxima.org App for Android

 

Thanks for the info pmohr. I actually saw that picture (also posted by you) on another thread I searched up and that's what convinced me that something was off. The diagram shows that the fans should only run on high after about 203 F. I guess I didn't take into consideration the ambient air temperature (100 F today here in Idaho) or that just because the stat opens at 180 doesn't mean that that's what the engines temperature stays at beyond that point, which is most likely the cause.

Also, good job making those DIY videos on youtube. I've watched all of them and several have helped me out with my own repairs.

 

hey guys i just had a quick question, does anyone know where to get a shorter e-brake handle for a 99 se, or if they even exist?

 

I need a new radiator, and I found this one online for cheap. Only $50 and free shipping. Does it look reliable enough? I am not good at car parts, so looking for advice!

 

it says it works, but I don't know that I'd do it, especially when you can get a koyo radiator for 100 bucks.

http://forums.maxima.org/group-deals...ricing-27.html

 

i have a dumb question, could an unresponsive o2 be the reason why i keep getting a code for my maxima running too lean?

first the code came up for running too lean after 2 hrs of highway driving so i went to autozone and got it coded, cant remember the code atm. then they printed out a list of things it could be so i noticed one thing was low fuel pressure. i then thought ok, ill replace the fuel filter (it looked old and a little rusty anyway) and then after doing that the CEL went off so i thought sweet, that fixed it. but then after driving the same 2 hr highway drive again a week and a half later it came back on the way home. went to autozone again and this time they coded it for running too lean and also an unresponsive o2 sensor in bank 1. could that be in any relation to running lean? what would need to be done to get it to not run lean?

 

The CEL is telling you what is wrong. you have a malfucntion 02 sensor. replace it. Yes, a bad o2 can cause a lean condition and so cant bad spark plugs.

Check your plugs, clean TB and MAF per how tos. If the code stil comes back replace the o2.

 

Hi folks. Newbie to the Maxima forums here.
The last Nissan I had was an 82 280ZX 2+2 Turbo. That car was more fun to drive that either the C4 vette or the 924 Porsche that I've owned in the past. Once I got 'er spooled up past 2800RPM it was game over for opponents. ;-)

Anyway, I'm preparing to buy a 1995 Maxima. VIN comes out as a SE, but the options make me think maybe really a GXE. Everything from all leather, to full power options w/sunroof, to hi-end Bose system, etc.
It's a chain motor {thank you for the thread with the pics of chain vs belt motors!} w/300+ on the odo.
Car has been parked for a few months but when we jumped it off it runs sweet {no chain slap, valve noise, any other obvious uglies...} but haven't driven yet as I'm waiting for seller to get new title copy.

Only bad re interior is need a new P-brake boot and the sunroof doesn't retract {either fuse, switch or motor} but NO signs of leakage. The rest of the inside is SWEET! ;-)

I'll need to replace front bumper & windshield.
They hit something {maybe a deer...lots of that where I live...} and crunched the bumper, turns/marker lights and a few supports & brackets, as well as the front of the hood. I can save the hood.

I'm getting the car for $800 and I estimate another $4-5 hundred for bumper, glass, etc.
I think I'm getting a good deal {as long as road test proves good}.

What do y'all {who are def more knowledgeable than I re: Maximas}think?

 

Probably a dumb question but will 00 &01 doors fit 4 gen

 

No, they will not. While they may look the same, the sizes are different.

 

Guys, any help would be appreciated. From time to time my car ac is giving me headaches. thing is when i turn the ac on (mostly when the temperatures are high and idling) i hear the ac compressor sounds like is compressing against an obstruction and if i live it it, it let the refrigerant escape (i think that there is somewhere a security valve), but if i turn on the ac whit the car running everything works OK

 

this is on a maxima 01

 

i figured its just they are imaculate and my car was in a crash I need three doors and some paint.

 

whats it mean when the cruse control light flashes....i was crusing on the highway and started some MAJOR hydroplaneing i hit the clutch to shut it off and regain control of my car but it had shut off already and was flashing i had to reset it before i was able to use it again...i dont have traction control or abs, ive owned the car for 6 years and this is the first time ive seen this

 

I do not completely understand your problem. You say that the refrigerant escapes, but then later you say that everything works ok. If the refrigerant escapes, the a/c will not be able to cool.

My guess is that you may have a bad bearing in the clutch on the a/c compressor.

 

will a 95 ecm work in a 96

 

Yes they are interchangeable.

 

I want to do it soon since everyone says it benefits the car a lot. but i am not sure how to. i checked the how to's and there's one in there but its a video that doesn't work. could anybody guide me in the right direction on how to do it?

 

About 2 years ago I purchased a 1995 Maxima and from the jump it had exhaust issues which made it bog down. I removed the catalytic converters and also replaced a majority of the exhaust with performance headers, y pipe, and muffler. I also replaced the fuel rail include pressure regulator and injectors. I am still getting a miss or what some would call a "sputter" I am wondering if it is a mass air flow sensor. How could I check?

 

Basically, you pour one can in the tank when it's 1/4 full. Spray some into the throttle body, and another half into the brake booster vacuum line. FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS!!! here:

http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...ster-line.html

Much much more available elsewhere online, just do a google search for "how to seafoam a maxima" and be amazed at results!

buy some CRC brand MAF cleaner spray, and spray the MAF according to the directions. Usually MAF issues will cause the car to not want to go into higher RPM bands than 3k... "Stuters" can be MAF, they can also be coil packs going bad or spark plugs fouled... Any codes?

 

[QUOTE=99maxwell;8545969]i have a dumb question, could an unresponsive o2 be the reason why i keep getting a code for my maxima running too lean?

first the code came up for running too lean after 2 hrs of highway driving so i went to autozone and got it coded, cant remember the code atm. then they printed out a list of things it could be so i noticed one thing was low fuel pressure. i then thought ok, ill replace the fuel filter (it looked old and a little rusty anyway) and then after doing that the CEL went off so i thought sweet, that fixed it. but then after driving the same 2 hr highway drive again a week and a half later it came back on the way home. went to autozone again and this time they coded it for running too lean and also an unresponsive o2 sensor in bank 1. could that be in any relation to running lean? what would need to be done to get it to not run lean?[YES!!! it would definitely cause it to run lean. O2 sensors act as thermometers and the tell the injectors on how much gas to shoot out depending on temp ]

 

That's not how oxygen sensors work.

If you were referring to the ECTS then sure, you could stretch it a bit like that.

The ECU uses the O2 feedback to try to keep the AFR at near stoich levels (all depending on load, RPM, throttle position, etc), but they don't do anything near acting as 'thermometers'. Yes, they are heated; this is to get them to optimum temperature to properly read the AFR.

To the OP: yes, an O2 sensor sticking near zero volts (remember, low is lean) can and will cause a lean code.

 

Alright thanks for the tip, also it sucks that those videos dont work. a lot of videos dont work. I'm just going to google it like you said

 

yeah, google works well with updated vids. The smoke show is freaking incredible!!

 

ok, i found the brake booster line, now what side do i pour it in? the right side? (looking at the engine)

 

Hey guys I need a little help. So after about 2 yrs of no AC (100plus degrees of weather here in charlotte) and finally taking some time to figure it out, my hi AC has been the culprit of my leaks. So upon relacing the o-ring that connects it to the ac compressor, I see the bolt stripped the grooves, so at some point when I got my new compressor, someone over torqued it. So I tried to screw it back in, and it just keeps turning...and turning...and turning. Is there anything I can do at the moment to remedy this? (lock tight or something?)

 

Is there any Bulbs I can put in my Stock housing to make them yellow?

 

Go to Google, type in "yellow h3 bulbs". There's a set at amazon made by nokya for $15. I've had them before in blue...good brand. For future reference, you could have googled that yourself.