HELP NEEDED, my 99 GLE is showing an 0304(KS) and a 0213 (evap small leak), before this was showing 0304 and 0201(IGN COIL), I found the damaged coil; I replaced and this never come back, now with the 0304 and 0213, I´m a little confused beacuse in relation to the evap there are a lot of items to check, I don´t know where do I have to start, the most easy is the fuel cap, but it is ok, please someone that can give some help to solve this codes!!!
PD. specially the 0213, for the 0304 I´m going to replace the KS.
The car does not fail but the code is present.

 

Hold off replacing the knock sensor until you get the 0213 (P1440) code fixed. Many times the knock sensor code will show up with other codes when it really is OK. It may go away when you fix the other problem.

The 0213 (P1440) has a lot of possibilities. One of them is the gas tank filler cap. If it is loose, bad, missing the o-ring or completely missing you will get this code.

Download this section of the FSM and go to page 448 for more info on this code.

http://boredmder.com/FSMs/Nissan/Maxima/1999/EC.pdf

 

So I got a low-mileage motor with a new AT transmission. The PRNDL lights aren't turning on and the car won't come out of Park. I was thinking the Nuetral safety switch. It worked originally after the swap but recently gave way.

Im new to the whole forum thing. Hope i did this right.

 

So I got a low-mileage motor with a new AT transmission. The PRNDL lights aren't turning on and the car won't come out of Park. I was thinking the Nuetral safety switch. It worked originally after the swap but recently gave way.

Im new so not exactly sure what it might be.

 

^^^check your fluid on level ground with the engine running and warmed up for starters.
If you just had a lot of work done, hopefully it's an easy fix for you.

 

The lights could be a light bulb - easy to check.

Does the shift lever move or is it stuck in the park position?

 

Hey guys,

I have a 1998 GLE, it has a low idle issue.

When in park it idles at 700rpm, but when hot and at a stop, it idles slightly above 500. You can feel a slight vibration in the steering wheel.
When put back in drive the rpm's climb back up to 700, the idle is always steady even when in drive, but is abnormally low. The car accelerates perfectly fine.

When i bought the car a year ago, the original owner told me about the idle issue. But mentioned he replaced an ignition coil and that the car was running much smoother. Within a week or so, it started to run rough like i explained again, just like he mentioned. He also mentioned his mechanic checked the plugs and they were in good condition.

My question is, what is causing this idle issue?

If the issue was fixed with a new ignition coil before, is it likely that i need to replace them all?

All knowledgable advice is appreciated! Feel help me fix my baby Thanks guys!

 

clean your throttle body and Idle air control

 

When at normal operating temperature, our generation Maxima's idle at 750 (+/-50) RPM's. When under load, RPM's should drop to 550 (+/-50). If you're having sporadic vibrations at idle, definitely clean your TB and IAVC. If that does not resolve your issue, swap out the ignition coils one at time to see if you can isolate a failure.

 

while you're buying the rain-x to use on the windshield. I replaced my Bosch blades w/ Rain-X blades and haven't looked back since.

 

I've been trying to figure this one out for a while. Searching hasn't done me any good.

I'm getting a loud ticking/rattling noise when when it's really cold outside. Easily noticeable from inside the car while it's idling, and the rattling quickens if I rev the engine. It gets quieter as the engine warms up, though it gets loud again when accelerating.

I'm almost positive it's coming from around the throttle body area, possibly underneath? I haven't been able to pinpoint where it's coming from, so I'm really hoping someone can help.

 

hey guys im new to this forum and still pretty fresh w/ my 98 se max. have some strut/caster questions if anyone could lend a helping hand it would be much appreciated!!! so i bought it back in august for a good price so i didnt mind the hard right pull it came with. so i just took it to les schwab and got it aligned and they told me i had a very negative front right caster, and that i'd have to get my frame pulled to adjust it. So after a 5/8 frame adjustment the car drives pretty straight. however there is a left pull during acceleration, and right pull during deceleration. the left pull during acceleration is much worse in first starting from a stop.

 

Pull during acceleration usually is the control arm bushings. The right side is notorious, if the car has/has a power steering oil leak, ATF oil rots the bushing.

 

right on i was planning on getting freshy control arms and struts up front, anything else i should go ahead and replace while im down there? im pretty sure i'm all stock on 133k miles so i want to stiffen her up first before any other mods. Daddy always told me when you build a house you start from the foundation. i also was wondering about the possibility of engine mods later on, i want to get at least in the 225-245 range in that car for at very least the mpg benefit

 

I decided to attempt to repair the TCM myself.
First I searched online trying to locate a replacement for the burned capacitor (made by TDK), but nothing matched.
I ended up going to a local electronic parts store where they couldn't find that specific part either. They were able to locate a different part that I could try as a replacement, but it wasn't a capacitor (as I first thought), it was an MOV.
Since I didn't have a better option I decided to give it a try. Went back home, soldered it to the board and then plugged the TCM board back into the harness.

 

I got two more, an o2 sensor and a ignition signal circuit. What would cause this problem more, an o2 sensor or the ECTS? And what about that ignition signal circuit?? I'm thinking coil packs or something? This car was given to me for free about 5 months ago.

 

Ok, here's a noobie question that I've been unable to find the answer to:

If I have aftermarket springs, which way is up/down? Tighter coils closes to the ground or the car?

And no, I can't read the lettering on the springs to tell me which way is up as the previous owner painted them.

 

the tighter coils are closest to the ground, yes...but you need to be able to align the springs so the part that is supposed to face outwards does.

Find pics of the same springs you have, and compare orientation

 

no, no, no! those springs do lower the car, 1.4 front, 1.25 rear. So the last part of what cdg2125 said is correct. they are progressive rate springs, meaning the tight part compresses after the wide part. the tight part should face UP on the front and the rear. I just installed that exact same kit this weekend. I have no noises whatsoever, everything is riding great. Here's what you can show your mechanic - point out to him that the words "tokico" in white stamped across the spring should be upright. If the installed the springs with the tight part on the bottom, then "tokico" will be upside down. Take your car back to him and have him do it properly ASAP!!

 

i have the same p1320 code popping up also p0325 and p1490 i know what the first 2 are but the last one is a vacuum cut valve bypass and i have no idea what that is. the ignition code 1320 I've been trying to figure out what is making it show up. sometimes at stoplights it'll die and soon as i crank it up it'll die again.When I'm accelerating it spits and sputters like it doesn't want to go. I changed the FPR,fuel filter, and cam positioning sensor. I cleaned the MAF sensor,TB,ERG valve, and went ahead cleaned the IAVC while I was at it. It still stutters a little bit but hasn't died at any stops yet. So I know its better but its still not all the way fixed. I don't know what to do next. either check the coils or could it be dirty gas or injectors. any feed back would be great.

 

I'm new here and just received my activation code and i put it in but still can't reply

 

oh okay so i can now ok cool

 

Vacuum Cut Bypass Valve is back by the EVAP canister.

 

I found some knockoff Altima VQ35 headers in the OKC area. I have a 96 VQ30 (non-00vi, ISO MEVI). My understanding is that these will fit my car with some possible minor modifications (EGR delete, xmember persuasion, o2 wiring, etc). Seller has no idea of the brand but from what I can tell these appear to be an M2 or Top Speed Pro 1 set. I can get him down in price.

http://oklahomacity.craigslist.org/pts/3620274272.html

The end goal is to achieve a smooth sound and my biggest hesitation is I don't want to install the headers and y-pipe and end up with a raspy, ricer sound. So help me out, will these get me there? Or should I just save my nickels and get a better quality, true equal-length set?

 

Do some research. Headers and ypipe will add rasp with Aftermarket muffler. If u keep the stock muffler then it will sound nice and deep plus perfomrance gains. But u shd also replace the stock muffler to a 5th gen to get best full flow out of the exhaust.

IMO there is no point to doing headers as the stock are pretty decent with flow and it requires a lot of work to remove/replace.

Just do the ypipe and 5th gen muffler and u good.

 

Hi Guys new to the forums, trying to buy one but had a few questions b4 i do.
Was wondering about how much does it cost to supe these cars up and is it actually worth suping up. Also i don't know how to drive stick shift and would it be possible to still supe up a automatic or should i just learn to drive stick.

 

That is a very open-ended question. It all depends on how much you want to increase the performance. The more performance you want to wring out of the car, the higher the cost. Small improvements like change the air intake to a CAI system should be under $100. Change the exhaust system could be in the area of $500. On the top end of the scale you could add a turbo or super charger and drop several thousand dollars.

Automatic or stick? Again it depends on how much power increase you add. The automatic transmission can't take much more than a stock engine produces. The more pedal-to-the-metal driving you do, the sooner the auto transmission pukes its guts on the street.

Visit our Track & Tune and Advanced Performance forums and read up.

http://forums.maxima.org/index.php#track-tune

http://forums.maxima.org/index.php#advanced-performance

 

hey im new to this site. My car is suffering from the effects of the NATS immobilizer system. i have read the threads and i am thinking about replacing all of its components. i havent found anything about how to replace the antenna ring that reads the key. Also how hard is it to buy an ecu from an earlier year and change the pin out as to eliminate the NATS altogether? i have put alot of money into the car i dont wanna just reprogram it and have it lock up again in a few weeks like i have read in other posts. i plan on keeping the car and any suggestions would be beautiful..

 

ok let me rephrase it, if anyone has put an earlier ecu in the 99 maxima how hard was it to do, what did you have to do?

 

Hello all, I just picked up a 98 Maxima (GXE I think, I'll check the model code when I get home and edit the post), 196k miles and needing some serious lovin'. I am a mechanic at a Kwik Kar here in North Texas and I like all of my used vehicles to get the royal maintenance treatment right out of the gate. This post is mainly to get some advice and a point in the right direction. So, without further ado, my list of the basics to get my new baby's engine bay back to it's old luster.

-Felpro Full gasket kit ($109 from AZ @discounted price)
-(6) NGK Platinum Plugs (Is it ok to use Iridiums or best to stick w/ platinums?)
-Upper and Lower oil pan gasket (not sure if these are included in the full kit or just RTV)
-Serpentine belts (both)
-Timing chanin tensioner
-Water pump
-Rear main seal (read the how-to, may need a co-worker's help)
-Coil boots
-Brake pads and rotors (any specific combination of brands work well for dd?)
-Lower control arms (unless ball joints, bushings, and lca all can be installed seperatley)
-Struts and strut mounts (possibly coils depending on $$)
-strut tower bar and rear sway bar
-Energy suspension poly urethane engine mounts
- I'd like to replace the stock headlight housings with projector housings, but Sylvania silverstar ultras will work in the meantime.
-Oil change with K&N HP-6010 and 4qts Pennzoil Ultra Prem Synthetic 5w-30
-Fluid top off/drain & fill depending on condition of fluid
-If I missed any items on the 60k service list, they are included as well.

This list is fairly comprehensive, I think. If there's anything else you can think of replace, please post and let me know. I'm thinking about pulling the engine out and doing everything with it out of the car, is this a good idea or overkill?

Eventually, once all maintenance is up to date:
-G35 wheels (two sets of rears so I can rotate without worry of stagger)
-Middle East Intake Manifold (I need to read a bit more into these)
-Y-pipe
-cat back
-throttle body spacer or Pathfinder 70mm throttle body (whichever actually adds power)
-possibly a body kit, but I'm not really one to mess with the stock look other than wheels and a slight ride height drop to reduce body roll. I'd much rather it perform well than look like it does and then disappoint.

Thanks for reading, if there's anything I can help with as far as inspection item advice/making your car pass insp, don't hesitate to ask!

 

Welcome to the Maxima experience. You have an ambitious list of maintenance and I don't really have anything to add to it.

My only comment is about spark plugs. Platinum plugs were what the engine was spec'd for and I would personally stick with that. Iridium plugs were introduced because they will last longer than platinum. This is because iridium is a harder metal than platinum. But the harder metal with its longer life brings a negative with it. Harder metal is less conductive to electricity than a softer metal. When a harder metal is used in a spark plug, it will produce a weaker spark unless you beef up the ignition coil. this means that a platinum plug and an iridium plug with the same voltage applied, the platinum plug will have a hotter spark. It's fairly common knowledge that a copper spark will produce the best spark because copper is a much better conductor of electricity than any other metal used is spark plugs. However, copper plugs wear out very fast. But the difference in performance between platinum and iridium plugs is seemingly small. As a daily driver, I doubt if you would be able to tell thew difference.

 

Thank you, that was exactly what I was needing to know. I'm going to stick with the platinums since that's what it's specced for. I'll beef up the coils later on down the road. Already got started on a few of my listed items.

Ordered an 00vi from LKQ but will take a week or so to get it to me, ordered felpro valve cover gasket kit w/ intake plenum gasket from AZ, ordered OEM Brembo rotors w/ WBR pads from World Pac, and ordered a rear sway bar kit, strut tower brace, and every Energy Suspension mount and bushing that motovicity had available (btw motovicity actually Carries the Quaife Differential, I almost s*** myself when I saw it and I can get it wholesale price at cost...someday in the far future) grand total spent for the day: $684.43 not too shabby.
Only reason I can even afford all this is because I kept my spec v in such immaculate condition that when it was totaled, the ins company gave me very close to kbb excellent price. 3x what I still owed on it.

Ordering Lower Control Arm assemblies, rack&pinion, p/s high and low pressure lines, and possibly any gaskets needed to do the upper and lower oil pans (I think one of them is just sealed with RTV, correct?) next week. Struts, springs, strut mounts, rims/tires the following week. :-D this is so much fun, I may never buy a lightly used vehicle again. I'll take the beat to hell, sub $2000 junker any day.

 

Hi

I have several oil leaks around the engine. I think the part circled in yellow is leaking, though in the picture it has been cleaned a little. Can anyone tell me what this part is. This is on a 1998 Maxima.

Thanks!

 

I think that's the knock sensor and no, it looks more like a radiator hose came off or water pump seal/pump is bad, the belts have been slinging coolant all over everything. Does it ever overheat?

 

That looks like a crank shaft position sensor.

The knock sensor is located under the upper intake manifold..so it's not the KS.

 

That is the camshaft sensor. It uses a rubber o-ring to seal it, so you need to replace the o-ring, not the sensor.

 

Thanks guys. I noticed it yesterday when I was screwing the motor mount bolt back in.

Does the motor mount bolt located in the right passenger side have a nut? Mine does not have a nut, which might be why it keeps coming loose.

 

My car has a nut on the motor mount bolt.

 

Thanks mate. My nut must have fallen off.

 

Looking for the famous LED tail lights, anyone still make them?