I know that the "F" and "C" on the JWT chart means fed or Cali spec, but what does "U" mean?

 

I'm guessing it could stand for Canada as Nissan has 3 codes for North America. But the codes/letters on the chart are not the same ones that Nissan uses. The Nissan codes are:
U = USA, non-California
V = California
C = Canada

 

Hmmm..interesting. Thanks.
The search continues for a definitive answer..
What emissions does Canada have?
Fed or Cali? Lol

 

I have a 1995 Maxima Production date 1/95 that is leaking badly at the output shaft end of transaxle (manual LSD) that started shortly after replacing clutch. Car has maybe 250,000 miles on it. Is the Bearing and seal replaceable without splitting the case. It still shifts great and I hate to let Her go but to overhaul or replace would not be worth the price. Please help if You can..

 

The seal can be replaced from the outside, but to replace the bearing requires you to open up the case.

 

1998 Maxima GLE, 175K miles

I was driving on the freeway yesterday. As I exited, the wheel was extremely hard to turn. I drove it home and got on the computer to look at what could be wrong and how to fix it. First I thought the power steering belt was gone, no, still there, or the pump was frozen, nope, still turning. I turned the car off and it probably sat for 30 min while I looked online for a local parts store with the pump. When I started it to go get the new pump, power steering was back and has stayed that way for the last 24 hours. There are no leaks and the reservoir is full. Does anyone have any thoughts about why this happened? I'm going to replace the pump anyways, but this seems like an unlikely occurrence.

 

Double check all your lines including your high pressure power steering line.
When your engine is running is there foam created in your power steering reservoir?

 

Looking for a place to mount my fuel pressure regulator.

Is it safe to drill though the firewall near the hood/above the fuel filter to mount it?~or is there a risk of hitting something on the other side?

 

IIRC a good bit of the dash harness is right around that area, I wouldn't risk it.

If you don't have cruise, the place the actuator normally sits is a decent mounting spot for an FPR (right over the VIN on the firewall).

 

That's a great idea.
I have cruise, but it doesn't work because I have my clutch bypassed from the swap/no clutch needed to start/~so I might as well remove that anyways. Thanks.

 

FWIW if you just bypass the lower clutch switch (for starting) but leave the upper switch (cruise cancel) either wired up as normal or just open circuit, cruise will function just fine.

 

Mistake deleted.

 

I'm going to install an innovate water temperature sensor gauge and I got a T that splices into the radiator hose for the sensor.

I need to measure the heat coming FROM the block.
Which side is the "exit"?
I assume it is the driver side.

Thanks in advance.

 

Yes, the coolant exits the engine on the driver's side, the upper radiator hose.

 

Perfect. Thanks for your time!!

 

got a quick question and its probably a nooby one and most likely common sense..but my PS rack is leaking which has resulted in a soaked LCA bushing on the left side. last time i was under there when i was in a shop they told me i should get that fixed (fixing the leak by replacing the rack) or else **** will start to happen. So my question is...how BADLY do i need to change that bushing? it doesn't bother me too be honest, but i dont want it breaking completly off on me while im going like 70 on the hwy lol

 

My PS leak ruined the bushings on the left LCA and also caused a brutal rusting. After I replaced the PS rack I immediately replaced the LCA. I did not want a rough ride nor take chances of the LCA breaking which would cause a loss of steering control. During a minor wheel slamming accident over a decade ago the right LCA broke and I couldn't control the steering. The right wheel was wobbling so I had it towed.

If you want to change the entire LCA or insert new bushings on it is your call.

 

Upgraded my radiator recently and looking at the Z33 thermostats on courtesy, i noticed they have the exact same part number as our 4th gens.

That being said; how is the Z33 stat any better if it has the same part number as a 4th gen?
Same part then, right??

 

same p/n = same part, nothing "better" about it

 

Thanks. Why do people boast about it then?

I've read that is can keep your car 10 degrees cooler~I must not be looking in the right place or missing something here.

 

 

Where are you finding part numbers on Courtesy?

A32 part number is 21200-31U12, Z33 is 21200-4W01B, different parts.

Z33 thermostat opens at 169-174 deg F, A32 opens at 180 deg F

 

I was looking at the top number.
I see the product SKU is where it really matters.

Thanks!!!

 

Courtesy doesn't show any part numbers. They'll show the first 5 digits, which is the part code; ALL Nissan thermostats have the part code 21200, all oil filters are 15208, all intake manifolds 14001, etc. And I've just noticed, the first three of the part code are the FAST section they're listed under.

The actual part numbers come from a lookup of the part code and the chassis code, with engine/trim/trans/etc options set as needed. Most everyone gets confused by Courtesy's site.

 

But good to know with courtesy, as I've been confused several times before.

 

I hope this is the correct procedure for this. I have a '97 SE manual gearbox. I searched the site a bit but time is short so please forgive if this info is here somewhere. My brakes started feeling funny so I replaced the pads and discs. Old disc were worn a bit but the old pads were nearly new condition. After install I had a soft pedal. Very strange since I didn't open the system. Tried to bleed, Good at RH front and LH rear but after a little squirt there is is no fluid being delivered to the LH front or RH rear. Test drove anyway. Under hard braking pull to Rt, locks up RT then "pow" RH releases. I'm thinking abs control box is the cause but need some guidance. Anybody familiar with this? Pulled the ABS connector as ref'd in the manual. .
Follow up to my post here. Found this issue in posts. I have checked fluid from master and it's good at front outgoing line. I need to get a flare wrench to check the rear master line or any ABS lines without rounding off the fittings. This problem seemed to occur with the pad/disc replacement for some reason. The hydraulic system was not opened at that time. Have tried to bleed the LH front a second time and it bled one squirt only after sitting for a week then nothing. The brake system is split into two, front and rear is it not. The fact that one front and one opposite rear are not getting fluid is bizarre to me. Good to see the experience level of many of the replies. I have several issues that I need to discuss but will do them individually. I will do a fluid check along the lines from master to caliper. Will stick to simple logic and not get freaked by the unknown. Sometimes the most obvious answer is the simplist. Easy to get tied up when you don't thoroughy understand how something works, ie the ABS controller manifold. Thanks in advance for your indulgence. I will try to keep my replies to stuff I actually know or admittred opinions. I need to reach the magic 15# too I guess?

 

Deleted.

 

Hi, I have a 1995 Maxima with 201k miles on it. I just put new tires on last year. I had the front brake pads redone and new rotors put on the front wheels at that time too. I started hearing a squealing/chirping noise coming from the left side of the car shortly thereafter. Nissan's put it up on the lift numerous times since then and can't seem to find anything, even though i've brought in a recording of the noise to prove it actually exists and let them hear what it sounds like. They had it up on a lift today and took the left side of the car apart and still couldn't even find so much as a metal shaving. I figured i'd come here to see if anyone else knew what this was. I can't find a recording of anything like it even posted on the web. I've never had this problem before with any Maxima I've owned.

To give some background - the car does not do this when it's cold. It has to have been driven, either in stop/go traffic or at highway speed for considerable distance before the noise starts. Things have to be warm. That got me thinking it might be a heat expansion problem of something expanding into something else. It comes and goes randomly. Doesn't matter if it's on a curve or straightaway. The speed of the chirping/whining speeds up and slows down with the wheel speed, so it doesn't appear to be a belt noise of any kind. My calipers are not sticking or dragging (and they would make a different sound if they did). I don't believe it's a bearing - it doesn't grind, and bad bearings do whine, they also sound different, and it's constant - this sound is not. It happens more frequently in hot weather/conditions than cold. While i am hearing it coming from the left side, it's possible it could be more centrally located on the axle, and the sound is just radiating outward.

Does anyone have any idea of what this could possibly be? I can email the mp4 file to anyone interested in more info since i can't post it to the forum. Please help!

 

Pull the axle out of the hub and spin the bearing by hand, I'd bet it's bad. Every time I've had an intermittent 'brake grind' noise only when hot, it's been a bad wheel bearing that's spun on the hub. Had the same on my '96 and a few vehicles at work. A proper repair will need both a new bearing and a hub.

 

Edit: Pmohr is likely right~but you could...

Best guess is to check all your heat shields, including your brake dust shields.
& do it yourself if you can.

 

They pulled the entire left side of the car apart, and couldn't find anything. It's not a grind, it's a chirp and squeal. Heat shield/brake shields have also been found to be fine.

If you want, i can send you the audio file.

 

Shields are good, no rubbing. The only thing i can think of, that's already been checked, is that the brake pad is dragging an indicator somewhere on the rotor. I have aftermarket pads on the front, and new rotors. I didn't get those done at Nissan. Given that the noise started after those were put in, I'm highly suspicious of that brake pad, even though nobody's found anything wrong with it, and i can see no wear patterns on the rotor itself. I'm half wondering if i can pay somebody to put it on a dyna and run it until the noise shows up. Having it on a lift might not work, because it takes the load off of the wheels and associated joints. If it's not the brake pad, that could be why they're not finding anything (aside from running it cold).

There's no grinding, and no clicking, creaking or clunking, and it doesn't matter what side i shift load to when turning, it doesn't start or stop the noise. Think of a giant hamster wheel squeaking every time it turns when a hamster runs on it. If it's already happening, it just keeps going. The only thing the noise seems directly correlated with is the wheel speed. It speeds up and slows down as the wheel does, and it'll happen anywhere from accelerating under 5mph to upwards of 70mph, as long as the car's been driving for a while. And it's loud, especially when it's refracting off of a barrier or another car.

 

[QUOTE=phenryiv1;4711300]Since people with less than 15 posts cannot start their own thread, but MIGHT have a legitimate question, I am opening another thread for noobie questions.

I just bought a 98 GLE from an 80 y/o lady who took extremely great care of the car, i got it 100k, since buying it i had put gas in it twice and used premium since having to go to emissions b4 registration, anyway it past reg and i put 89 octane in it 2 days ago and now its cel is on and spitting P0133 and P0325 is it a coincidence or does lower octane gas suck that bad? any help would be appreciated!!!! thanks!!!!!!!!

 

[quote=98maxaholic;8793002]
lower octane gas just sucks that bad. Add some octane booster to the rest of that swill in your gas tank, and fill it up w/ at least 91 octane...


go forth my son, and sin no more.


(get yerself a fsm, it has all that good stuff in there.)

 

I'm 3.5 swapped and I had an eBay fuel pressure regulator I swapped out for an Aeromotive 13109.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ae...FUtgMgodYEAA2A

After the fpr swap I went to adjust the pressure and the gauge needle didn't move no matter where I set it.

Pinched the bottom return line as suggested by the seller...no increase.

I rebuilt the fpr and slapped on a new gauge*~
Still no increase.

So I assume it's the fuel pump out @ about 190,000 miles.
I replaced it with a walbro and the pressure went up from low to mid 40's to almost 50~but the adjustment screw still does nothing.

I'm lost.

I noticed while I was working that there was an uncapped line next to my return line.
I assume it is evap?~metal line nearest the fender..anyways I capped it just because~and I thought I should mention that.

Other than the mystery line, I believe it all to be hooked up correctly.
[from fuel filter to right side/left side to the rail/and bottom to the return]

It was running fine on the old pump with this new fpr, but I don't have my wideband in yet and wanted to see higher numbers on the gauge...that's why the upgraded pump.

I haven't tried pinching the return line to look for an increase in pressure since the new FP went in.
I'll check that tomorrow.

Any ideas??

*don't ask.

 

I lost my wallet in El Segundo,i gotta getit i gots gots ta get it

 

http://m.youtube.com/#/watch?v=NCxFL5od9D0&desktop_uri=%2Fwatch%3Fv%3DNCxFL5od9D0
So I play that in my car and problem solved?

 

WRONG the Low temp one is dis one right here! and you have to swap it into the old housing.i have one somewhere when I find it just pay shipping and you can have it

 

Sold!

 

I have a '97 Maxima GLE A/T

I'm getting codes -

Fuel Tank Temperature Sensor - 0402
Inhibitor Switch - 1101
EVAP Canister purge control valve/soenoid valve circuit - 0807
Mass Air Flow Sensor - 0102


I replaced the MAF Sensor last night and I'm still receiving the code, also ideas on how to fix the rest?

From what I've read, the only way to repair the inhibitor switch is to replace it?

I'm lost on codes 0402 and 0807 though, help?