Arcing the starter doesn't work, I tried that already and all the connections appear to be clean but I could try changing them.

All the fuses have been checked already and they are all good.

 

i'm trying to find them on other sites for cheaper.
which one of these is the oxygen sensor i'm looking for ?

right up stream before catalytic converter
left up stream before catalytic converter
down stream after catalytic converter
up stream before catalytic converter

 

Right Upstream before Catalytic Converter.

 

hi would the front corner lenses of a 4th gen max fit my 97 i30

 

Is anyone running those custommaxima.com springs? Pics and opinions would be awesome. Also are they the same ones that are on ebay for 37 bucks, lol because the description on there site and on ebay are identical Thank you.
*Oh sorry one more thing. Does anyone know if there is a engine torque dampener aval. for the 4th gen if so would love to know where.

 

Yeah I seen some cheap lowering springs on ebay aswell.

 

It would be awesome if someone has an idea on this one...I'll try to be brief but describe it the best I can.

Tonight when I went out to start my '95 SE (217K miles), it started just fine, and I shut the door and heard a clicking sound that sounded as if it was coming from all the doors. It sounds like power locks, but isn't quite as loud. It seems to happen randomly. Sometimes it will make this noise 5+ times in a row, then it won't for a minute or two, or it will every few seconds for several minutes. I can't tell what it is for the life of me, I just think it is coming from the doors.

That said, event though it is a slightly different noise, I think it is possible that it is related to the power locks. The locks have always had a little bit of a mind of their own...primarily that the car will lock itself overnight...not really a nuisance, and it doesn't happen often. Tonight, though, when I went to lock the car at the store, I hit the door lock button on the driver's door and the doors all locked, then immediately unlocked (just like they do when the key is in the ignition so you can't lock yourself out--except the key was not in the ignition). I tried several more times, then shut the door and tried the key (turning the key in the driver's door locks/unlocks all doors on this car) to the same result. I opened the door again and was able to lock them successfully on this attempt.

When I came back out to the car, the doors unlocked as they usually do with the key, and when I started it I could hear the random clicking noises in the doors again. It seems this happens whenever the ignition is in the "on" position, but the engine does not necessarily need to be running. I think that it only happens when the car is stopped, but like I said, it's a little more faint than the power locks (actually sounds almost as if the doors are already unlocked and it's trying to unlock them again...though I'm not sure about that), so I'm not sure if I'd hear it over the wind and studded tire noises.

Any ideas? Thanks in advance.

 

1995 Nissan Maxima 3.0L 24 Valve 280,000 miles:
My car was originally running fine 2 weeks ago, last weekend noticed that the engine began to miss, decided to replace spark plugs as it was needed, so Saturday I replaced all 6. After replacement engine still missed, and began to look further into the problem. Found that the (looking at car) front/left fuel injector was bad, so I replaced the injector using online guides in proper removal and installation. After replacement I took the car for a very short test drive, absolutely no problems. Today, I went to Food City and purchased gas, still no problem, drove to a local restaurant and after being there 30 minutes went back to the car. Now the car is missing again, blowing white smoke, which should indicate oil, yet there is a heavy stench of fuel in the air. I am afraid to allow my fiance to leave in the car; could it be bad gasoline, or am I looking more towards a blown head gasket/fuel regulator/or something I'm not considering? One other thing I did notice a little corrosion around the electrical plug to the fuel injector I replaced, did not think it was of much matter though. The oil is not milky, yet has a faint hint of fuel.

 

White smoke indicates fuel problem if you smell it coming out the exhaust heavily. Check the fuel injector you replaced and check that you have both correct o-ring seals on it.

 

Okay, no doubt about it...it is the locks. It keeps trying to unlock all the doors on its own...it is very strange. The clicking noise is what it does when the doors are already unlocked.

Any ideas as to what could be causing this?

 

Had you searched, you would have found that a few weeks ago there was a thread indicating that the custommaxima.com springs are the same as the ebay ones and they're crap. Get some real springs.

No CEL? You should check your injectors with a multimeter and see if that indicates anything. There's a chance you got a dud replacement injector. If it's misfiring though, it's not necessarily the injector. There's also the chance of another injector going bad too. It really is best to look up how to test them with a multimeter.

If the head gasket is bad, it should be visible. Look for oil.

 

drilling a hole in a aftermarket high flow cat for sensor be bad?

 

Why not do it after that cat? It be difficult to thread a hole inside the construction of the convetor.

I'd do it behind/downstream of the cat.

 

Hi, brand new here. Looks like a great place to educate myself
I've been a member over @ g20.net many moon ( MODS I'm not spamming, just part of my history. If need be, edit that out)
Love Nissans & Infiniti's

I just got a 99 I30 last night, been trying to tackle some issues.
Luckily searching has helped me conquer a few already (signal flasher, and air bag light).
Unfortunately my battery died (maybe I left the door cracked overnight or something). Went to jump it and realized my ex got custody of the cables.. So I swapped the battery from my G into it....
I over torqued the nut on the + battery cable, snapped it right off (getting strong I guess, or more likely rust).
Now what?
It seems like that bolt is welded on the cable, or am I being dumb and its just rust holding it on?
Will I need to replace the whole cable (junkyard diving should be easier on this than the ol' g20 @ least) , Looking @ it is giving me a headache (thinking I'll have to splice all those wires).
Hopefully this isnt as bad as it feels right now. Any ideas?
I've been searching but cant seem to find anything on this, tried all the keywords I can think of right now
TIA

PS.
I thought to post some pics of the new I30, but I'm not sure if thats cool in this thread..
This forum seems more strict than any I've used, I dont wanna get banned for going off track.

 

You can post a pic of the terminal with the issue described. From your description, you can do either but to me, it's easier to replace the harness.

 

I had wondered if that bolt was really welded in or just rusted.
So I walked to the store and got a can of coke.
I let the bolt sit in a cup of it for an hour, rust gone and bolt out.

So I got the cables on the terminals. Jumped it and it started right up....
Then died.
We jumped it again, it started strong and died.
Then it would only crank.
I think the battery's toast (maybe alt too).
its only ~8v right now.
When we had the jumpers on it was ~12.5
I didnt get a chance to test it when she was running (all of 6 seconds).
When it was only cranking, it was 12.5v til you went to key on it dropped to ~8-9v. It needs around 10v minimum to turn over right?

Battery so bad even jumping cant start it now? Maybe in combo w/the alt?
Fuel pump? (sounds like its working, maybe time to buy a pressure tester).

I just hope its not that damn immobilizer..... On that note should the security light be blinking before it starts? If it were bad the security light would be on solid right? Reminder that its an I30 if that affects the immobilizer any.
TIA

 

The security light would be on (solid without blinking) when your actually trying to start the car.

Its likely with the failing battery the immobilizer screwed up and lost the correct info for the keys. NOw it thinks your using a copied key and disabled the injectors...and now it will just crank and crank and crank till you take it to the dealer...

 

Thinnk you hit it on the head.
It keeps acting differently, but now I'm really starting to think immobilizer.

I replaced the battery, it cranks hard, but now the security light is solid.
Gotta do some reading. Is the stealership really the only way to fix this?

 

Video to help diagnose.
Is this pretty certainly the immobilizer?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XxeW3WmD15c

 

Damn, that looks like the immobilizer...time to take it to Nissan and have them
reprogram the damn thing.Since the car doesn't move towing it is prolly the only option.

 

I've got a locksmith on the way from AAA.
I asked him to call before they sent him out.
I asked him if he could do it, and he said "Its a 99 maxima right? Because that happened to me on my old 99 maxima, I definitely can do it."

Got my fingers crossed.
Being a holiday tomorrow I imagine the dealer is closed...

 

I recently bought my first maxima a 1999 5sp i really like it got it very cheap girl hit a deer. I have the lower rad support issue and the top support is bent from the deer. Does anyone have any pics or info on replacing the whole rad support top and bottom?
Any help appriciated.

 

Hello im new here so i'll get to the point. I've searched for hours to come up empty handed. I Recently Just Bought A Used 98 Nissan Maxima. Before We Bought The Car We Checked It Out Thoroughly But Missed A Problem. Once We Got The Car Back Home Later That Evening My Husband Informed Me That Some Funky Stuff Was Going On. He Said If You Cut On The Headlights The Display On The Radio Goes Dark And The Clock Dims. There Are No Lights On The Dash So You Cant See The Instruments At Night To See How Fast You're Going. The Dimmer **** Does Not Work. It Does Nothing. Just No Lighting For The Dash. Some answers I've Gotten is It Could Be A Fuse But We Had All The Fuses Checked Out And Only The Fuse To The Cigarette Lighter Was Blown. We Havent Checked The Fuse Boxes Under The Hood Yet. We've also Gotten There Could Be A Shortage. We Just Dont Know. Want To See If Someone Could Help Before We Have To Go To The Nissan Dealership. I Would Really Appreciate The Help!!! Oh Yea There Is Also This Noticeable Pop When You Turn The Steering Wheel. Not All The Time But Noticeable.

 

my 95 max (130k) has had an issue if just up and cutting off, while running fine. Once it shuts off, it takes a few good turns of the engine to crank.

sometimes it does it at a lite, sometimes while just cruising down the road.

decided to get the dealership to diagnose.
they told me both o2 sensors were headed out. Also belts were cracking.

not sure how o2s going out would cause an ammediate hault to the engine.

he said everything else checked out. I was leaning towards fuel pump but idk now.

any ideas? I'm stumped. (ive also been using marine ethynol fuel stabilizer for long sitting- 3 wks at a time)

add: dealership said only thing would be camshaft and crankshaft sensor. Said they sell them in a pack of 2 and have to reflash ecm all for $287. Does this sound right?

 

Cool let us know how it goes.

 

Wow, this is the definition of Ignorance.

This is the goddamn newbies thread, post your dumbass question in here you spamming chit head.

 

Ok, I have searched this forum for resolution of the code P1130. Found a post, one post, but no response. So I hope my post does not go on deaf ears like the one that was first posted.

Just like the Supraforums that I belong to, I hope in a time of crisis, fellow Maxima owners can be as helpful as my Supra brethrens/sisters. On to my problem. My Maxima is a 99 SE.

In this forum I did find some help but I still have a few questions if you all don't mind.

1) If I find that it is the swirl valve that is bad and based from this forum, most dealers have no clue on what that is. Does anyone have a part number and the best place to purchase the part?

2) I know my check engine light is on for the P1130 code and also from this forum I learned that it can affect fuel economy and start up. What's weird, my car doesn't have any issues like that, so can it be something else that is making the P1130 code turn on?

Again, I appreciate any help that I can get and thank you for reading.

Robert

 

Clock is normal, radio is being to dark is due to dimmer switch more than likely.

Use a small flat screw driver to gently pry of the dimmer switch and make sure it is firmly connected

 

Catbacks- Mine cracked right at the rear flange near the back muffler. To my chagrin I find that this is an expensive part going all the way up to the resonator and replacing it is going to cost me 200 bucks or so that I currently dont have. When it cracked, the whole danged system is now rattling all over the place and my dumb question of the year is, do they make a flanged sleeve or something I can do a rigged repair until I'm in a better position to buy one? I mean, the pipe itself and the res thats a quarter mile away from the break doesnt look to be in that bad of shape...If not, can anyone point me toward a place where I can get a better price on this too long to be in one piece pipe? Thanx in advance

 

AAA locksmith did the trick!
Although I came across a page in the owners manual the following day that said you can reprogram key by going key on 5 seconds, key off 5 seconds, repeat.
If this works for anyone please post it.

On another note can I use the key fob from other generation max or other models?

 

Wow, I had an oil leak on my 98 maxima for a long time and i have done everything to stop it from leaking but by far the easiest was changing the O-ring on the camshaft or crankshaft sensor not sure what it's called but it is the one on the passenger side of the engine towards the top and all it took was a 10mm socket and an O-ring kit(about $3) from advanced auto parts , althought they tried to sell me the sensor for like $70 asked if they had it in stock and they did and then I asked them to help me find an O-ring that would fit and it worked out great. anyways I was writing this wondering what other oil leaks you guys may have encountered and found a simple solution to after throwing money at it without resolve?

 

One moe question any advice on fixing the broken power antenna it finally broke off an I really miss listening to the radio on my way to work, I bought one of those autozone replacement antenna mast but I am sure I'm doing something wrong and the instructions aren't clear. hopefully I have time this weekend to go to the yard and buy one from another max but am afraid I buy and it breaks shortly after. thanks to all of you for reading and for your support in advance.

 

Umm, what other oil leaks are you experiencing??


Buy the Antenna mast from dealer and replace your existing one. Pull it out while someone turns the radio on and then guide the new one in by turning radio off.

 

I've been on this for a while but to busy to post anything..but when I first got my 98 max..i used power steering fluid..then my boy told me its better to use atf for some reason..i forgot why..but now I have a small leak of atf and 100% sure its not my tranny..meaning its comin from somewhere involving my power steering..any1 have any ideas as to what I should change to stop the leak? I have to put in atf almost every other month or when I steer it makes the worst sound..

 

Tighten your hoses by PS pump and check belt for proper tension. If you do both and it still makes a noise, you can try to flush the system and refill. If it still keeps the noise, then your PS pump needs to be replaced.

 

I could really use some help here.

I have a 96 maxima that had 200000 miles on the motor before it gave out a month ago. I got a great deal on a motor with 70,000 miles on it so I began the swap out. I have changed all the seals and the rear main as it had a small leak. Engine is good to go and ready to be put in which is good news.

Now the bad news. I replaced the water pump the other day and when retightening the chain around the new pump I could hear it jump teeth one or two times. Not sure if it was the teeth on my water pump or on one of the other pulleys in there.

Is there a good chance that my timing is thrown off?

What is the best way to check the timing before I put the engine back into the car? I can pull off the timing chain cover if I have to but would rather not.

I've given consideration to just trying it out since it may have just been the water pump teeth but what's the worst case scenario if the timing is bad? I don't want to ruin this engine after all the work I've put into it.

Any help is greatly appreciated. I searched and searched for a write-up on timing on here but didn't find anything.

 

Hey, I just bought a 1998 Maxima with 190k miles on it recently. I've been having trouble with my car taking extra long to start after it has been sitting for a while. Its especially bad in the cold mornings, and it sometimes causes my trip counter to reset on its own. I'm unsure if its a battery problem or fuel pressure related...I was hoping one of you guys would be able to help me out with some guidance as I am not great with cars.

 

Thanks a lot

 

Hey everybody i got a question how do you chip an ecu for a 96 maxima to take off a camshaft sensor and a crankshaft sensor? please help

 

Chip the ECU? You want to clear the codes for those two sensors?? Did you actually replace them? If you did, after 50 miles of driving, it will take itself off.