I have a coolant leak on the aluminum part that connects to upper radiator hose that is mounted on the right side of engine. one of the aluminum pieces just broke from corrosion and need to replace that whole aluminum part I believe. I just can't seem to find what the name of this part is and wondering if I can get some help. Also, would like the write up to replace that part and any recommendations on where to get a new one. thanks so much.

 

Hard to tell exactly what everything is with an engine bay full of dirt, or rust, or...whatever the hell is going on there, but I believe you're talking about the coolant log.

Nissan calls it a 'water outlet', $136.43 @ Courtesy - http://www.courtesyparts.com/11060-o...-p-130195.html

Just grab one from a junkyard, no real need to go new OEM. It's a fairly simple replacement, a couple hoses, the ECTS and temp sender, and just bolts on to both heads.

I would recommend getting new gaskets where it seals to the head, only $2.58/each at Courtesy - http://www.courtesyparts.com/11062-g...-p-130198.html

 

Your photos are so close up that it is hard to determine exactly what we are supposed to be looking at. Based on your words, you need the part that the upper radiator hose attaches to and to both cylinder heads. Nissan calls that the "OUTLET-WATER". It is part number 11060-31U0B, list price $176, on-line $133

It is reference # 11060 in the parts diagram. See link, lower right corner.
http://www.nissanpartszone.com/Page_...mponentsNo=210

Because it is a rather expensive part, you may want to go to a junkyard for that. If you go to a pick & pull yard, you will be able to practice on an engine that doesn't matter. You just have to make sure you have all kinds of tools with you.

You had that problem because you are not running antifreeze or corrosion inhibitor. You need to flush that engine real, real good. Also, you can expect your water pump to be failing soon.

And one last thing. Please tell us what year car you have. Many times parts are not the same on all years of the 4th gen. In this case, the part is the same.

 

I have a beautiful mess of a 97 with just about 197k that has ZERO suspension left. I mean, running over a penny is a chore for this beast.

I finally have some money to throw at it - I take my grandpa around town for errands weekly and he said "I want a smoother ride, here's $600" - and was going to find some full-assembly shocks/struts for as cheap as I can and bolt em on myself, then go get an alignment.

Here's the question: what exactly do I need?

I live in Alaska and shops here have NOTHING to choose from, so I'll be ordering online and paying extra for shipping. I don't need anything fancy or high-performance.

Is this gonna be sufficient to do this job? (Other than the jack and axle stands and torque wrench.):

http://www.jcwhitney.com/replacement...681y1997g194j2
http://www.jcwhitney.com/replacement...681y1997g194j2
http://www.jcwhitney.com/replacement...681y1997g194j2

Two of the last link, of course.

Thanks!

 

The links come up as being for a Geo Prism, but it sounds like you have the idea. Don't have any experience with the JC Whitney brand but be careful buying the cheapest stuff. It doesn't always last very long. Monroe brand would be a good product that lasts, but the fronts are around $125. If you intend to keep the car for a few years, I would get the Monroes.

Another thing to consider is a bushing kit for the sway bar. I'm sure yours are worn out. They are not very expensive and can make a noticeable difference.

Rockauto.com is a place that has good prices and good customer service.

you need 2 - http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/more...252&cc=1211443 - $15 each

and maybe these - http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/more...319&cc=1211443 - $5

 

I have a 1997 Nissan Maxima. The car will not start if I am sitting in the drivers seat (just a single click with no engine noise), but if I get out of the car or am sitting in the passenger seat, the car starts flawlessly with no issue whatsoever. I found suggestions for car starting issues in other threads, but none quite with this issue. The car starts great, as long as I am not sitting in the drivers seat. If I am, the car clicks once and that's it. Crazy?

 

The only thing I can think of is the sensor in the seat for the airbag is shorting out... either that or your car is possessed and you should call a preist... That is the only thing I can think of... maybe someone else has some insight but I would think it has something to do with that sensor.


http://www.aboutautomobile.com/TSB/1...Control+Module

 

I'd be expecting a worn out ignition switch; you're applying pressure at a different angle or with a different amount of force when you're not in the regular seating position. Keep the key in the start position and wiggle it around, see if it'll crank then.

There are a few other slim possibilities, but they would be implausible at best.

 

yeah, go with this... I'ma go sit over there in the corner.

 

stupid SPAMBOT!

don be clickin no links now, this guy gonna give your computerbox the digital herpies...

 

I agree with pmohr. The ignition switch is most likely the problem.

There are not any seat sensors or things like that in our cars. There are many threads about the ignition switch if you want to read up on the switch.

 

Hi, I am new here. I just bought a Nissan Cefiro 3.0 V6 (A32) a few weeks ago. I have problem with the RPM meter, it seems to be pointing anywhere. What seem to be faulty here? The meter or the RPM sensor and where is the RPM sensor located?

Thanks in advance.

 

Hello, i have 1995 Maxima 3.0V6 Auto transmission. Could anybody tell my information ( uF and V) of this green capacitor(i think) near MAF? Mine is burnt and could not read anything on it to change it. Thanks

 

Pull out the cluster and tighten up the TAM screw, see if that helps. If not, you may need to replace the tach.


Otherwise it could be a CKPS issue, but you'd likely have driveability problems and throw a code.

It's hard to tell, but it looks like that may be a resistor to bypass the KS. The wire colors on that connector appear to be black and clear. Check for a disconnected harness right underneath the lower intake manifold (or it may be missing entirely).

 

So how does one know when he has reached the magical 15 replies and can actually start a thread?

 

That would be the number next to 'Posts:' underneath your name.

Is it not something you can ask here?

 

That rule is gone.

I had a thread up when I was under 5 posts.
I think they just need to update the rules.
*Unless it was a glitch and I just got lucky...?

 

Hi pmohr,

I had the TAM screw tighten up but the problem still persist. It could be the tach itself. I cannot afford a new tach meter right now. An aftermarket tach meter is cheaper, I probably looking at this. Thank you.

 

New owner of a 2010 Maxima S and was looking for some help regarding a mirror swap. My car came with the auto dimming inside rear view mirror and I as looking to swap it with the one that contains the HomeLink. I searched on eBay and all of the ones I have seen appear to have a different connector than what I have. No pictures at the moment but the connector is 7 or 8 pins wide with only one row just under the mount. Most of the ones I have seen are 2-4 pins located on the side of the mount or 8-10 pins but arranged in two rows.

I tried contacting Courtesy but they were not sure and steered me in your direction. Only other thing I can provide is the connector I have has two wires, not sure of the colors of the wires at the moment.

Any help would be greatly appreeciated.

 

I think that you need to post you problem in the 7th generation forum. This is for the 4th generation, 1995 to 1999. We don't have those mirrors.

 

Sorry about that. Noticed that a bit too late.

 

Hey

ive used this forum in the past to look up little stuff but now am having bigger problems with my max and need some help. i have a 1999 maxima se and love it.
It has been running decent and been a great car. for the last 5 years or so it has had the missfiring problem. We will take it in and it will run perfect for about a month. ANd then it goes back to missing. It has 150 k miles and has been taken very good care of.
I want to get rid of this missing problem for good as i am about to be a poor college student and wont have time to keep taking it in. THe missfire is sometimes really bad at idle and the car seems to bog down in 2nd gear between 2k and 4k rpms. Some days it misses like crazy and some days its relativley go
I want to get work done as cheap as possible and not keep guessing what the problem is. I dont know alot about cars but through reading this i figured its either the coils, the injectors, the MAF sensor or the spark plugs and wiring. \
Any help would be apreciated greatly.

thanks lamp,

 

Lots of possible causes for your problem. Is your check engine light on? It usually is when the engine mis-fires. If you answer no, my next question is does the light work? The light should come on when you turn the ignition key to the ON position before you start the car. Maybe you should just go to an auto parts store and ask them to read the check engine light codes. It's a free service.

 

Ya the check engine light is on and i took it to auto zone and it came up with a 1706 code. after researching the forum it seemed like it was a false code that only happenened to auto trans. I have a 5 spd. THe code popped up about a week after i got the clutch replaced and lowering springs added. THey also sealed the Rear main seal as it was rediculously expensive to replace with labor.

 

How recently did you have the codes read? Was the engine missing at that time? If the engine is missing at idle, remove the connector on each ignition on at a time. If the coil is working and you remove the connector, the will idle worse. If you pull a connector and there is no change in how the engine idles, you have found a problem cylinder. It could be the ignition coil, it could be the fuel injector. Swap the ignition coil with another one and see if the problem swaps to another cylinder.

P1706 is the park/neutral position switch in the transmission. Both manual and automatic transmissions have a switch in them. In your case, since you got the code after a clutch job, I would check that the wire is still connected to the switch. Very common problem after a clutch job. This would not cause any issues with engine performance, it means that if the transmission is in any gear, the starter will work.

Numerically close to 1706 (if you were to mis-read the code) is P1705, the throttle position sensor. This sensor would cause you to have idle rpm problems, so I don't think this is a valid thought.

 

I just bought a engine with 75k miles for a 99 maxima. What should I do to the engine before I install it. I want it to have some extra HP.

 

00vi ;-) best hp adder for our 4th gens, plus headers, not hp adder but u should change gaskets and seals before putting it in the car ;-)

 

Thanks

 

Is there a certain make you reccomend

 

Ya i got code read about a week ago and odd enough the code dissapeared today when i drove it. Had a rough idle for about 5 minutes and then it drove miss free for about 20 minutes. I just dont understand how sometimes it runs good and sometime horrible. I need to do the coil test tomorrow. Do you just disconnect the wires while the engine is running or pull the whole coil out?

 

Just disconnect the wire harness connector, no need to pull the coil out. IF you can unplug the connector while the engine is running, that saves wear and tear on the starter. Won't harm the coil or engine if done while the engine is running.

 

You had the transmission out, but they did not REPLACE the rear main...they only SEALED it??!!! You're talking 30 minutes MAX to have the RMS replaced while the tranny was out. On another note, are you getting an oil leak on the driver side or did they just decide to band-aid the RMS for the hell of it?

 

00VI refers to the intake off a 2000 Max...google it or search the .org...tons of threads on it.

 

THe guy who did the work said that it would be extra labor because it was very hard to do in a maxima because he would have to remove other things. He said around 300 bucks in labor plus the part. it was leaking oil but now is not.

 

1995 Nissan Maxima. Car was misfiring. After some investigation, found out that cylinders 1 and 3 were not firing. Changed all plugs and coils. Still nothing on 1 and 3. So, I changed all 3 left side (back) fuel injectors. I did all 3 just so I wouldn't have to go back for #5 later.

Now I have it all buttoned back up, but there's no electrical power whatsoever. No headlights, no interior lights, no flashing security light, no brake lights, no ignition, nothing.

The battery that was in there would sometimes register as fully charged when I hooked it up to the charger, but would then show the voltage as 1.1 other times. I didn't know if it was bad, dead or what, so, I took it back. Brand new battery as of 2 hours ago...still nothing.

Thanks for any info before this car causes me to run face first into a wall.

 

There is a 120/140 amp fuse in the box next to the battery. Check that.

Battery cables have been known to corrode where the wire goes into the battery terminal clamp. Twist/wiggle the wires and see if that does anything.

 

Thanks. I'll check out those cables tomorrow. It was 100 degrees out today and I was already ill with the car, so I threw in the towel until later.

I was wondering if it may be that fuse, but if the little metal tab in the top through the little clear window is any indication, it looks like it's still intact. I don't know if that can stay intact and the fuse still go bad or not.

 

As said, double check your battery connections.

And FWIW, the rear of the engine is the right side.

 

Here is what your rms looks like with the tranny removed.
http://forums.maxima.org/6555651-post7.html

Only 3 bolts holding it in so not sure why your mechanic said it was so difficult. Regardless, if he didn't replace it AND it was in fact leaking, by just putting silicone on it, it will start leaking again. Usually, our rms does not fail and leaks there are usually due to the upper oil pan half moon seals.

 

I read (or saw a diagram somewhere) that if I was standing facing the belts an pulleys (which are on the passenger side of the engine compartment), that was technically the front of the engine. If that's the case, the rear would be on the left, putting the right towards the front of the car. If I'm wrong, that's ok too and I'm glad you told me. Makes things easier when trying to describe problems, etc.