2brosgixxer

The "rear" is the driver side. Confuses me when people say "left and Right" cause you never know which way they are really talking about. Right side is supposed to mean the passenger side. At least, that has always been my understanding...and since the Rear Main Seal is on the driver side of our car, that, to me, is the "rear" of the motor. But then again, we refer to the valve covers as "front" and "rear" soooooo

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

You're correct in that the timing cover is the front of the engine, however all automotive directions are given as you're sitting in the driver's seat, and of course started off with a longitudinally mounted engine. Obviously a transverse mounted engine such as in a FWD car (or MR/RR) has made things get confusing for some.

For example, the battery is on the left side of the engine bay, even though it's on your right when you're standing there with the hood open.

BRQuick

Great info! Thanks. Not only do I know that I had the left and right backwards, I now also know what that plastic red box is on the positive battery cable. Once I get motivated today, I'll start checking those cables and try to track down where the power stops.

Gonit

Hi again,

It seems that I am having another problem with my Nissan Cefiro/Maxima A32 1997 VQ30. I noticed there was a small fluid (red in color) leak coming out from right side, next to the right wheel. I also noticed smoke (really scarry) coming out from the back of the engine (more intense on the right side). Really appreciate if you have any answer on this. Thanks.

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

Are you using PS fluid or ATF in the power steering system? Is the PS fluid low?

Have you actually looked to see what may be leaking? That's generally the first step.

deathwobble

iTrader: (1)

Ok soo m looking to buy a 1997 maxima se. Its a great car and I have always wanted one but there is a problem. The guy that has the car says he just did the clutch and right after that it started grinding....in all gears and 3rd and wont even work. I mean box of marbles going down the stares grinding. The rest of the car is perfect. So im wondering what you guys think, is it the clutch not engaging/disengaging? or is the transmission toast? Thanks for the help!

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

The guy screwed up the clutch job and the transmission is probably messed up now from all the grinding it has been doing.

DO NOT buy that car.

deathwobble

iTrader: (1)

I figured that's what it would be. But He only wants $1000 and its low miles. Is it hard to swap a tranny on it?

Fakie J Farkerton

iTrader: (51)

http://web.archive.org/web/200806120...ca/mvp.php/805

You can decide.

deathwobble

iTrader: (1)

the swap seams pretty straight forward. If I can find a tranny at a decent Price id be tempted to do it

Fakie J Farkerton

iTrader: (51)

Your money/time. Sounds like a nightmare to me.

deathwobble

iTrader: (1)

your probably right. But I wanna 5sp maxima hahah

Woodensaint

A couple of days ago, I noticed a groaning/hissing sound comming from the rear driverside of my '97 maxima. Is this a problem with the Purge control vent valve. My check engine light is not on, but I did get codes from my OBDII reader. Three of them indicate an evap issue, one a knock sensor and one that I am running too lean.

Amerikaner83

iTrader: (17)

If you have those codes yet your engine light is not on, your engine light is burned out.

Gonit

Hi pmohr, I have identified the leak, it came from the rear valve cover of the engine. The gasket could have gone bad. I tried to replace the gasket but I just couldn't get the intake manifold off. I found a few useful videos on youtube about installation but the intake manifold on my engine seems to be different. Please refere to the pic attached (not mine). Thanks.

Jamie Bolus

Noobie Question

i recently purchased a 98 Maxima GLE, i went to install new door speakers and to my surprise i found Bose amplifiers in the doors will this have a negative effect if i swap out the stock Bose speakers with 75w infinities?

As well as if i change the old stereo head unit with a deck/mount ect
would that mess with the amps and blow my speakers?
i've been told most decks these days have built in amps.

Fakie J Farkerton

iTrader: (51)

If you have Bose you will need to rewire whole car.

Sorry.

verge

Wow, there are a lot of posts here, I hope this is seen!

I just acquired a '99 Infiniti I30 from my brother-in-law, and there are a few issues with the climate control system. When I first start the car, the ambient temperature reading is accurate, but it seems that once the engine warms up, all the sensors read -22F. I've run the diagnostic, and all the sensors go bad at once. I'm guessing this means that the "LCU" or "auto amp" is bad and needs to be replaced, but when I do a google search, nothing uses that name for that part! Anybody know what this part is called so I can shop around for it?

Aside from that, it doesn't blow cold A/C. I'm wondering if it's a refrigerant problem, or if the control unit simply isn't telling the car to blow cold air.

Help is appreciated!

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

The LCU (Local Control Unit) and the auto amp are essentially the control unit in the dashboard for the heater/air conditioning. Unfortunately Nissan and/or Infinity don't like to use the same names in the service manual and parts manual. The parts manual calls the control unit the "Controller Assy - Air Conditioner". The Infinity part number is 27500-2L900.

http://grubbsinfinitiparts.com/nissa...iption=Keyword

That comparable part in the 1999 Maxima has a different part number, 27500-4L010. The difference may be the trim panel color, but it could be something else. I don't know.

Being a pricey item, the best thing is to check out junkyards.

Jamie Bolus

Thanks

Woodensaint

I think I have discovered the source of the hissing groaning noise at the back of my max. The evap purge vent control valve, that is mounted to the charcoal canister has a crack in it's case, and the valve itself appears to be stuck. Could air infiltration here, be what is causing me to get a lean exhaust code?

montana5311

i have a 95 maxima and im changing the water pump but the bastard is stuck in there I NEED HELP!!!! (did everything correctly 2 remove it, it just wont come out ... removed fluids, removed tensioner, turned cranks shaft to loosen timing chain took bolts out put m8's in tightened them a half turn at a time made sure the chain wasnt on the pully etc. ... it get so far then it wont come out)

New Driver!

My Maxima 97 alternator gone bad again. 2 weeks ago replaced 2 parts, worked fine and its dead again. Options are:

1. Autozone's 125 amps Rebuilt, 1 year warranty. 2300 mexican pesos
(i've read in your posts thats not the best, is it?)
2. 110 amps New one, unknown brand, 1 month warranty. 2300 pesos
3. 110 amps Rebuilt, unknown brand, 1 month warranty. 1700 pesos
4. Another maxima 97's from a yunk yard (didnt smash, just overturned). NO warranty. 3500 pesos
Help me please! I miss my max!
Im really glad i found this site, i'm learning a lot, thanks for that!

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

It is difficult to give you a definite, without any error, answer. It all depends on the store and the quality of the products they sell.

In the United States, Autozone is inconsistent. Sometimes you get good parts, sometimes you don't, especially with re-built starters and alternators. I am one of the lucky ones, I have a rebuilt alternator on my 97 and it has worked just fine for over 2 years now. I put a new power window motor in my car and it lasted 5 months.

1. It's an Autozone rebuilt. All cautions apply. Make sure you save the store receipt. The part about 125 amps does nothing for you unless you have added non-standard electrical equipment. It won't hurt and it won't help.

2. Brand new without knowing the manufacturer is somewhat better than an Autozone rebuilt. Make sure you save the store receipt.

3. A non-Autozone rebuilt? It depends on who did the rebuild and the store that sells it. Make sure you save the store receipt.

4. From a junkyard. I will give you 2 reasons to run away from this. Price and it is used. The junkyard wants a premium price for something that is worn out and my fail tomorrow.

Of the 4 choices, I would list them in this order:
1. the new alternator
2 . the Autozone rebuilt
3 .
4 .
5 . unknown rebuilt
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21. junkyard

maximaboy12

iTrader: (7)

Hey guys I have searched and I cant seem to find installation instructions to put in fogs for a 97-99 max. Im trying to print them for a buddy. I found some last week and they looked like they were from an fsm. Any help?

Fakie J Farkerton

iTrader: (51)

http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...s-97-99-a.html

verge

Thanks, I pulled everything out and the problem was actually quite simple: the cable for the LCU was partly pulled out...wasn't getting any signals from the temperature sensors! Thanks for the help anyways. This is a free repair! Woohoo!

verge

I did a search for this, and nothing exactly answered my question.

I found lots of posts explaining how to install an AUX jack into an I30 without a cd changer, but mine DOES have a cd changer, so I was wondering what the procedure would be? I already unscrewed the cd changer from under the passenger seat and found the wiring harness (though haven't figured out how to disconnect it, thanks to it being wrapped in sticky foam). Don't know what to do from here.

Thanks for any help.

Fakie J Farkerton

iTrader: (51)

Google for: Nissan Usb sd Mp3 Adapter P3774

That is the part you thought was a diagram on the other thread you asked the same question in.

I'm not sure if that part is getting hard to find or what, but I only saw one result that seemed legit, and it was not in stock.

deathwobble

iTrader: (1)

I'm looking to buy a 97 max se with a 5spd. Its got 200k but it drives and shifts perfect and everything seams to be in working order. What I'm wondering is at that mileage are there any common problems I should be looking for apart from routine maintenance?

Phromethius

That milage is right on point for average use. If you don't have access to it's maintenance history there are a few common things to check.

Belt conditions, lower radiator support for rust, slow and moderate turning for CV axle noise, CV boot tearing, Engine codes obvisously. But yeah routine maintenance is about all you will need to keep that car running another 200k!

deathwobble

iTrader: (1)

Awesome, if all goes well tomorrow ill have a maxima to fill the gap of totaling my 81 max so many years ago hahaha

Woodensaint

So I have been getting a code for both the Map sensor and the EGR solenoid switch, on my '97 GXE, for a few weeks but haven't noticed any performance issuses. So I decided to do a search for the parts to find out how much it is going to set me back to clear those codes. The issue I am having is although everyone seems to sell the EGR solenoid, I have yet to find the MAP/Baro solenoid switch apart from a few used ones on ebay. I don't know the tech specs of the two parts, but I was wondering since they essentially do the same thing, are they interchangable? Secondly do these two parts tap into the vacuum system at any shared point? I was thinking it sort of odd that I was getting a code for two vacuum related parts at the same time.

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

One of the 3 hoses goes to the air filter box, another hose is engine vacuum and the 3 hose is specific to the valve's function. The hoses on the solenoid valves are not connected the same way, though. Other than to confuse us, I don't know why.

I am like you, I think the valves are the same part, but again, I don't really know. Maybe the mounting bracket is different. What is the same is the way you test the solenoid valve. How you test the valve is to check which 2 hose connections have flow-thru, with power and without. Both valves use the same test procedure.

See page 382 for the specifics of how to test.
http://boredmder.com/FSMs/Nissan/Maxima/1997/EC.pdf

Zjhaakonson

Okay so I have a question and I'm pretty sure it's not on any other threads. I have a 97 maxima and I'm planning on putting a lot of money into it. I'm just worried about the differential. Has anyone ever swapped their open differential out for a LSD? And secondly.. Would it even be worth the money to put it in? I don't necessarily want all my horsepower coming out of one wheel but they're not exactly cheap so I would just like some opinions. Thanks.

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

It's a do-able thing, you just replace the trans/differential. The only thing is that you have to replace one axle, because it is shorter than the standard differential axle and has dual teeth cut into the shaft that goes in the differential.

Is it worth it? That's up to you to decide.

If you make the swap, the car isn't worth any more money, so you'll never get the money back when you sell the car. So from an accountants point of view, no.

But if you are going to mod the engine, then cost is just a hindrance, so for a true performance enthusiast, probably yes.

Luvmy 96

Hey guys. My 96 is missing the driver's footrest. Would like to replace but find nothing on the web. Anybody know where I could get one? Thanks

deathwobble

iTrader: (1)

junk yards

lovesthemax

This is the process of the problem occurring
first i start the car no problem i drive off on first gear
the changed gear to second at 2500 rpm no prob
but when i went to stop at the stop sign i stepped on
the clutch and bam the rpm just droped and didnt come back
up and the car stalled i repeated it in 3rd and 4th same thing
the thing is that if i slow down and wait for 1000 rpm it drops
to about 200 or 100 rpm and goes back up to 500 idle rpm

please help me

eddiestar

I am a noob here and am really stumped. I pulled these 2 codes from a 95 Maxima. I did the test in the FSM for the EGR. Operating temp race to 2,000 and pulled vacuum hose and got no vacuum. I removed the BPT and did the test and it holds. I measured the EGR temp sensor in boiling water and ohms out correctly. EGR solenoid removed and it has a loud click with 12 volts applied. I also moved the vacuum hose from the fuel pressure regulator and applied it directly to the solenoid and removed the harness to see if EGR would move and it does just not a lot. I removed the EGR tube and cleaned it with a metal coat hanger and it wasn't completely blocked off. I put it all back together and got the 2 above mentioned codes. My question is where do I go next, replace the Front o2 sensor, maybe the EGR? I appreciate it.