66slim

Hello all!noobie here. i bought a 95 max and the remote battery is dead.If you change the battery in a key fob do you have to go through a set of steps to make it work or will it just recall the vehicle it is for.

Davey2Fresh

I do believe it will just remember your car, if it worked before the battery died it should work when you replace the batter

undefy

It will remember it. You're fine. ~UNdefy

undefy

Can anyone give me a part number for the gasket or grommet that the PCV valve goes into? Or a name for it, etc. It's the one actually on the valve cover that PCV goes into. I've bought the Felpro Valve Cover set from Autozone but it's not in there. Thanks in advance. ~UNdefy

66slim

Are the fpd tie rod ends competent enough for a high mile maxima? Or should i go with higher end product like ingalls or moog?

dans97maxi

iTrader: (1)

Hi all, i have a 1997 nissan maxima se 5spdand ive been having a problem that has been really getting on my nerves. So here it goes. Yesterday i bought a brand new battery because the one i had before was dead. Drove the car yesterday with no problems started everytime. By the way yesterday was dry weather. Today was snowing and was driving around for a bit then parked the car at my buddies place. After about 6 hours i was leaving for home the car would turn over slowly at start-up but it did start. Keep in mind this is a brand new battery. So i proceeded to drive home in the wet snowy weather noticed when i used signals my cluster lights and clock would slightly dim. So i got home and turned the car off, waited a few seconds and tried to turn it back on and guess what?!? no juice from the new battery. This only happens to my car when its raining or snowing. And my battery light never came on while driving. What can it be? Thanks in advance.

holymoo

I feel certain that this has been asked before, but I cannot find any answers via the search. On my Maxima, when I put the ignition in the on position with the engine off, I hear a clicking noise under the hood near the back of the engine. If I remember correctly the clicking stays there after the engine is turned on.

My question is, is this normal and what is causing it?

holymoo

@dans97maxi

It seems to me that you could be having an issue with your alternator. To test this you can connect a volt meter, connect it to the connectors of the alternator while the engine is running and check if it is producing about 14 volts. Or you could take the vehicle to a place like autozone and have them test it.

oweng82

Something funny or maybe stupid happened to me today, Since i bought my maxima i noticed that it had a couple of upgrades but since i don't know anything about cars only noticed that it had a cold air intake and that it was dropped, so the exhaust looked to me like a junk or maybe a masterflow that didn't even had chrome on it, never got under the car or real close to look at so i started planning for a greedy exhaust since i heard its one of the best, i took the car to a muffler shop so they could take a look and they told me that it already had a good exhaust system on it and didn't need anything else but the guy just got under the car and it been dropped you can barely look under so i decided to take a closer look my self and when i saw the muffler noticed that what looked like rust was actually paint that somehow ended staining the muffler but it was actually full stainless steel and looked just under right in the bottom of the muffler and to my surprise there was the brand name of of, and it was no other then a greedy exhaust looked online and it was the same... lol i felt really dumb but then again now i don't have to spend any money on it.... I am such a noob lol

sesshoumugen

i'm thinking about doing a complete cali to fed conversion on my 99 max in order to install a new y-pipe. i've managed to get bits and pieces on what needs to be done searching this forum all night such as change the front exhaust manifold, fed ecu, etc. but then there is the thing with the swirl valve. has anyone done a complete conversion before without setting off the ses light? if so; how?

jynx31k

Is there anyway to test my coils on my 98 max without takin it to a mechanic..I've been getting a studder when I'm standin still on drive..im thinkin its either my coils or I have to change my fuel filter..thanks for the help

holymoo

The most common way that people test coils on this forum (at least from my searching) is to check if the idle changes when you unplug the coil while the motor is idling. If the idle does not change then you have a bad coil.

Another way that you can test it is to check the resistance between the connectors of the coil. Off hand I don't know the specific resistances; however, I speculate you would be able to find all of that information within the factory service manual.

As far as the fuel filter goes, if it's been a while since it has been changed, it might be a good idea just to replace it. Seeing as a new one is only about $6-$10.

jynx31k

Thnks a lot holymoo..I'm gonna try that tomorrow

twinmama09

Ok. I have a 1999 Nissan Maxima GLE. It has the factory security system installed. The keypad for the alarm is broken (has been for about 2 years), anyways, I went to the store today. I opened my door and hit the locks. I decided not to get out yet and I shut the door. Well I forgot I locked it and pulled on the handle. For some reason me doing this set off the alarm. It wouldn't quit no matter what I did. A man came to my help in the parking lot. We disconnected the batt cable, but as soon as we hooked it back up the alarm started going off again. I took the fuse out but when we hooked batt cable back up the horn starting blowing. So we took that fuse out. What in the world is going on? Any suggestions on whether or not replacing the fuses I took out with new ones, or how to manually disarm the security system? I want everything to work, I just can't afford $250 right now for another keypad from the dealership. Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thank you!

oweng82

hahaha thats funny it happened to me .. its easy all you have to do is put your key on the door and unlock it try passenger or driver that should set it off...

holymoo

After making that post I've done a bit more research. From what I can gather from search this forum (as well as others), the clicking from the back of the engine is coming from the iacv. Also from the research, it seems that clicking from the iacv is and indication that it is not performing as it should.

As a result, I picked up some carb and throttle body cleaner and I will be taking the time to clean it sometime in the next few days.

If anyone has some insight as to why the iacv does this I would be very appreciative. Unfortunately, the factory service manual doesn't really have a whole lot to say on the subject of a clicking noise.

twinmama09

That didn't work LOL. I'm not a complete idiot

PeppyHare

Hello to all, I got a question for what I get as my next car. I do realize that - this being a Maxima forum, it'd be a bit biased. I'm hoping that I can get some reasons for what you may agree with since I've been trying to make up my mind for the longest time about this. Should I get:

1. a 2001 Nissan Sentra SE (has an SR20DE; I'd probably swap it eventually for an SR20DET from a Bluebird)
2. a 1997-1999 Nissan Maxima SE (I'd be supercharging it in the future so this'd be something to consider, not to mention those years of the Maxima are sexyyy)
3. a 2002-2003 Nissan Sentra SE-R or SE-R Spec V (if I get the stock SE-R I would swap the VQ30DE-K from the '00-'01 Maxima; if it's the Spec V, then the VQ35DE or a QR25DE from the '07+ Altima or Sentra SE-R/SE-R Spec V)
4. a 1991-1993 Nissan 240SX S13 (I would try to install an SR20DET or RB20DET)
5. a 1988-1991 Mazda RX-7 (either turbo it or leave it be if it's turbo'd already)

Also a bit of background:

• I live in Canada (in Toronto) so rust will be an issue. Along with that the car would be a daily driver.
• I'm relatively tall (6"2) so I may have a harder time fitting in a 240SX or RX-7.
• I want to be able to carry up to 5 people if necessary.

Thanks for the help!
P.S. If this isn't the right spot to post this, let me know and I'll delete this and move it.

oweng82

well just trying to help thats all it took to make my alarm stop driver side key just give it a coupe of turns and vouala!!! just saying tough

sprbld417

95 maxima, auto 320,000 miles

Hey guys..I'm in a bit of an emergency today. Today I cleared the codes. The only one that came up was the knock sensor (usually I get many more codes). After I started it up a couple of hours later it would not idle cold at all. After holding the throttle at 1500 until it warmed up, it still had trouble. I drove it around and it idles at 300 RPMs warm. No typo there, 300 rpms. It is VERY scary driving this thing now because you know when it is going to stall or anything. What in the world could have caused my car to begin running like this? No check engine light has come back on yet.

Also I checked my oil the same time I cleared the codes. I changed my oil around 12,000 miles ago and from then to now the oil mark has gone from the top to around the middle. It also had some metal shavings on this (which is a big concern to me), and when I started it up before it smelled like it was burning oil (blowing smoke too). I just don't understand why my idle would drop like this suddenly. Thank you guys.

holymoo

I wouldn't worry too much about the knock sensor code. Around here, the knock sensor is usually referred to as a "ghost code" which means that it will come up when something else is going wrong. Chances are, if you continue driving the car for a bit (somehow with its current issue) you should be able to get a more useful code.

Regarding the idling issue, the idle is controlled by the ecu which gets its information from the IACV. The IACV is located at the top of the back of the engine. On the iacv, there is a black screw which you can adjust to change the idle. Left increases the idle and right lowers the idle, if I remember correctly.

When it comes to the oil, at 12,000 miles it's definitely time to change it. I would recommend changing the oil, which should help clear out those metal shavings. While you are down there changing the oil, you might want to clean off the bottom of the engine and check for leaks in about a week.

cashoit

I think u have answered your own question. Go with the max man. All those other cars are too small. Supercharging is expensive and a lil harder to find nowadays. With bolt ons, u can find at least another 30HP.

cashoit

hit up courtesyparts.com. The parts are shown on a diagram with part numbers included.

cashoit

Changed oil 12000 miles ago???!!!

yo man change that asap. Even synthetic isnt rated for that many miles.


CLean you TB and MAF. CHeck IACV. That shd address idle issues. Bad KS wont cause idle issues. Thrown some chevron techron in the fuel tank.

66slim

Is it common for the hood struts or hinges or stay assy or whatever they are called to need replaced? Who here has done this and is it difficult/expensive? 95 SE maxima w 188000 miles

f2dgang85

What's up everyone with a new max went from the 2000 se to the 96 max if anyone has suggestions at all pls PM me with any info thanks

PeppyHare

Bolt-ons? The noob is strong with me right now. You mean a bolt-on turbo instead of a supercharger?

Also I would supercharge the maxima instead of turbocharging it because I want the increased low-end power at all times, instead of having a delay like with a turbo. Plus I would want my max to sound more like it has power (like in this link: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OavZodzOmD4 ) instead of speed (like with a turbo's jet-engine like sound).
There any supercharger kits for an A32 Maxima?

sprbld417

Alright, thank you. I adjusted idle right after I made this post, but it seems my IACV is acting funny. Any voltage/bench testing methods to make sure it is working 100%?

And when I was adjusting idle rpms from 300, valve noise was very apparent, although when I adjusted it back to 700 it sounded the same as I've had it and been driving it ever since I got it (its hard to hear over no exhaust). I can't see any way the valves could possibly drop my idle unexpectedly like that.

And I change my oil every three to four months usually regardless of milage. (Major commuter car, usually sees around 1200 miles a week). Oil is still brown and looks like new but an oil change is looking good for this week (3 mo. mark). Thank you guys!

achip5188

Hi,I got a set of 17" 350z wheels covered by 235/45/17 Front and 255/40/17 Rear but I'd like to change to 245/45/17 F and 255/45/17 R in order to close the wheel gap a bit and more comfort.I know they will fit but I'm not sure whether rub on the front.Car lowered on Tokico Illumina suspension kit.
Here is what I currently have

cashoit

Yes it is common. They are inexpensive and easy to replace. U jus unscrew the old ones and screw on the new one. Replace it.

cashoit

U dont know what bolt ons are and tryin to FI a max?? Dont worry u not the first noob on the org with FI aspirations lol

First off, read the FAQ stickie. ITs pretty informative and will teach u all the terminology and mods u can do for the 4th gen. Trust me, on a 13 yr old car as popular as the 4th gen its virtually impossible to find a mod no one has done before.

Second, Hit the All motor section of the forum and get yur knowledge on with the true maxi gear heads. They will give u an idea of how difficult/expensive it is to FI the max.

Third, decide what goals u have for the car. Like i sd before, u can accomplish a lot with jus bolt ons and prolly achieve what u are lookin for.

Fourth, always remember: maintenance before mods. Do this and u be good.

PM me if u got any questions man. We here to help our fellow maxi owners

cashoit

There is a bench test method but u need the factory service manual. Fallenone has the FSM in his sig, download it, test IACV per FSM.

With that many commuter miles u have a unique situation. Im jus gonna say this, the FSM recommends u change oil every 3000 miles or 3 months, whichever comes first. I find that pennzoil high mileage works nicely.

Tothemax123

Hello all i"m a noob (obviously) but anyways i have a very frustrating problem. None of my dashlights work (Speedometer, A/C controls, Clock Etc) i checked all of my fuses #40 was blown but i replaced it still nothing. The car does have an aftermarket cd player installed (poorly in my opinion). Could this be my problem? also when i took the dash panel under the steering wheel off there were about five cut wires, two of them speaker wire one was a hot and the others i don't know. any information would be great i really need my dash lights. This problem seems to be quite common in my year. Thanks in advance

holymoo

It seems to me that the likely culprit might be a faulty dimmer switch. Try messing around with that and see if the lights start to come back up. The problem could also be caused by a faulty relay. Swap the relays around and see if that fixes the problem; if it does, then you know the relay is bad.

When troubleshooting electrical issues like this, it would be a good idea to get a hold of the factory service manual as well as a voltmeter. The factory service manual will contain all the wiring diagrams to help you track down where the problem lies. The voltmeter will allow you to check whether specific lines has voltage and/or continuity.

Trin1j23

Having trouble with my ac 95 max. The compressor works i changed the drier switch and the sensor inside the evaporator core because i was told it needed changin and it still does work. Any ideas what else could it be ?

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

What is the problem, if the compressor works?

Is it not blowing cold? Is the blower motor not turning on? Auto or manual?

You were told it needed to be charged, have you not done so? If it's low on refrigerant (or has none) it won't work. Though in that case, the compressor shouldn't kick on at all, but you said yours does.

Trin1j23

The ac is manual. I was told the the compressor is leaking alot of refrigerant so i got another compressor. I added refrigerant and the compressor is not kicking on. Its not blowing cold air. so i bypass to tested the compressor i bought to make sure if it works and it kicks on.

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

How much refrigerant did you put in? Did you add oil when you installed the new compressor, and evac the system before charging?

What exactly did you bypass to test the compressor? B+ directly to the clutch wire, jump a pressure switch?

Steez1991

ive got a 95 3.0 V6 auto with 126k miles on it. The transmission went out and i put a used trans in and about 2 weeks later the same thing happened. the car wont move except when dropped down to 1. and in 2, D if i rev it up it will pull a little but wont actually move. no reverse either. help please?

PatrickB

Interesting Climate Control problem ~~ mind boggled.

Symptoms: When idling and with A/C on, everything works and Climate Control blows icy cold air. However when in drive, any acceleration (or engine load) will result in a switch to ambient air temperature. When this happens the compressor is still running but the cold (low pressure i think) line heats up and you can tell by touch that liquid is still moving through at a constant rate.

You then have to release gas pedal and idle, and toggle the climate control off/on (which correctly toggles the compressor on/off) to get the air to blow cold again.

It is a '98 maxima gle. When this originally started last fall, refrigerant levels were perfect. I know that many cars have features to throttle back the power consumption of the compressor under hard acceleration, but are supposed automatically to reset when acceleration is removed and not engage at all under moderate to low acceleration. However, i do not know if the 4th gen Maxima has this or where it would be to check/repair/replace.

I cannot seem to find a previous post with a similar issue.