NOOBIES: "I AM NEW HERE BUT HAVE A QUESTION" thread. Read FIRST post BEFORE posting!
06-09-2012 | 10:59 AM
#8561
So knowing that, I just have one last thing I'd like to clarify on before I get to work on my car today. Is it possible for the engine to overheat if the pump is good, theres no air in the line, but the heater core is clogged? Or can the coolant bypass it? The fact that I did the system flush a year ago with no problems makes me wonder how any air could have gotten into the system since I didn't do anything else to it since then. I'm gonna have to say that the pump's finally had it at this point. I'll try bleeding the system one more time before I spend any money. With how many miles my car has, even if it is air lock, replacing the pump, chain tensioner, and refilling with nissan coolant/distilled water probably isn't a terrible idea anyway.
Thanks for your fast response
Edit- After reading the thread you linked dennis, it seems like he was having the same problems. The fluctuating I mentioned does seem like it was going higher past 60 mph. I can also hear a strange ticking noise near the timing chain cover now, which I'm sure indicates that the pump is shot. Still no coolant leaking though.
Thanks for your fast response
Edit- After reading the thread you linked dennis, it seems like he was having the same problems. The fluctuating I mentioned does seem like it was going higher past 60 mph. I can also hear a strange ticking noise near the timing chain cover now, which I'm sure indicates that the pump is shot. Still no coolant leaking though.
As for replacing the water pump, here is a link to some how-to videos made by an org member, Pmohr. The water pump replacement is a 2 parter. He talks a little bit about the timing chain because it needs to be moved for the water pump. I can't remember if he has a video specifically about the timing chain, but you can scan the list and see.
http://www.youtube.com/view_play_lis...E3C3345DC2C64F
Similiarly, he also has the FSMs that you can download if you need one:
http://boredmder.com/FSMs/Nissan/Maxima/
06-09-2012 | 12:36 PM
#8562
Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 47
From: Behind the Wheel
If the radiator is clogged, there is a bypass. I don't know how big of a pipe/hose it is, but a bypass won't do any cooling. In your first post you said that the lower radiator hose doesn't get hot, so that indicated no or a very low amount of flow. The ticking you hear could be the timing chain. There are guides/tensioners for the chain that wear out allowing the chain to make noise,
As for replacing the water pump, here is a link to some how-to videos made by an org member, Pmohr. The water pump replacement is a 2 parter. He talks a little bit about the timing chain because it needs to be moved for the water pump. I can't remember if he has a video specifically about the timing chain, but you can scan the list and see.
http://www.youtube.com/view_play_lis...E3C3345DC2C64F
Similiarly, he also has the FSMs that you can download if you need one:
http://boredmder.com/FSMs/Nissan/Maxima/
As for replacing the water pump, here is a link to some how-to videos made by an org member, Pmohr. The water pump replacement is a 2 parter. He talks a little bit about the timing chain because it needs to be moved for the water pump. I can't remember if he has a video specifically about the timing chain, but you can scan the list and see.
http://www.youtube.com/view_play_lis...E3C3345DC2C64F
Similiarly, he also has the FSMs that you can download if you need one:
http://boredmder.com/FSMs/Nissan/Maxima/
. They also said the pump was in stock but the tensioner had to be ordered and was about 3 or 4 days out. I think I'll check courtesyparts for their costs after shipping since it'd take around the same amount of time anyway. I definitely don't want to go as far as replacing the pump without swapping in a new tensioner at the same time. I'd have to remove the old one anyway.Edit- I recently read that the updated tensioner can't be directly swapped onto the old chain guide. Is there any truth to this? Even on a 97? If thats the case, then it looks like I wont be buying a new tensioner right now...I'd like to do it if possible without removing the whole chain cover though.
This is the tensioner in question: http://www.courtesyparts.com/13070-t...784_1785_1794&
Looks like the old one to me?
Last edited by Maxima Spec-R; 06-09-2012 at 01:46 PM.
06-09-2012 | 08:02 PM
#8563
I have a 99 maxima se auto. i posted a question about my CV joints a while back. i got them both replaced about 3 weeks ago and everything seemed fine after that up until the last week. when i brake the car it makes the same clicking sound i was hearing while i turned the car when i had bad cv joints. it only does it when i am going like real slow and gently on the brake pedal, prob under 10-15 mph. this happens if the wheel is straight OR if i turn it like im pulling into my driveway. it does it almost every time when i pull into my driveway but usually when its hot out i would hear it better.
now my question is could this be a CV joint related problem? or could this be something else? i ran it by my father and he thinks its coming from my left front wheel and he thinks that its my rotors because my car doesn't exactly stop real evenly it has a "pulsating brake" according to him so he doesn't think its my CV joints at all, but i argued with him that i feel as if it is the same sound i was hearing with the CV joints. could my mechanic have done something wrong for this to happen, like forget to put something in or over tighten something, ect?
now my question is could this be a CV joint related problem? or could this be something else? i ran it by my father and he thinks its coming from my left front wheel and he thinks that its my rotors because my car doesn't exactly stop real evenly it has a "pulsating brake" according to him so he doesn't think its my CV joints at all, but i argued with him that i feel as if it is the same sound i was hearing with the CV joints. could my mechanic have done something wrong for this to happen, like forget to put something in or over tighten something, ect?
06-11-2012 | 08:05 PM
#8564
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 3
of course im new here and also new to the maxima game. i have a 98 max and i know the 3.5 can swap in with the manual transmissions, but will the engine swap the an automatic transmission? and also what engine management is out there that can be used for the swap and also a maxima tuner?
any help would be appreciated, thanks guys and please messege me also or answer here and steer me in the right direction.
any help would be appreciated, thanks guys and please messege me also or answer here and steer me in the right direction.
06-12-2012 | 04:30 PM
#8566
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 3
or where can i get a good shift kit?
im not looking to race, just a bit more pep and more of cruising.
06-17-2012 | 08:59 PM
#8567
NEW QUESTION TO AN EXISTING PROBLEM?!?
so i origionally posted this below
so i have a 99 maxima SE auto, through my mechanic i just got my knock sensor done. back in feb. about a month after i bought the car the code came up for the knock sensor. so i was informed by the .org to just buy an eBay one because there is no difference besides saving $100. so i did that and 2 days before it got shipped to my house my check engine light went off so i thought ok, no big deal ill just save it. last month my cel came back on same codes as was before one for knock sensor oh and also i forgot to mention the code also for the egr valve. so i thought now would be a good time to get it replaced since i have the part.
so i brought it to my mechanic and he did it for me. i drove the car back home and as soon as i pulled in my driveway it was like hyperventilating, the rpms gauge kept fluttering up and down so i started to panic. i then called my mechanic and he said that "since my car isn't used to my sensor due to me not having a working one for a while the computer needs time to adjust to it and it should re-time itself after driving it 50 or so miles". so i probably have driven about 100 miles or pretty close to it by now and the hyperventilating thing DID go away, but now when i sit at a stoplight in drive sometimes my car would start to shake, when this happens my rpm's reads around 500 rpm, also i do notice that while in park just sitting ideling the rpm's needle starts to flutter a little but not much. it bounces in between 800 and 1000 rpm. when i had the knock sensor not working it would sit and idle at about600-800 rpm. so idk if this has anything to do with the problem.
also my maxima had some weird ideling issues going on. it would idle at 2000 rpm or more randomly after starting it but this wouldnt happen all the time, but this would even happen in like 85 degrees so i know that it was not the cold that caused this. after starting it and it having some pretty high idle i would put it in drive and it would like slam itself into gear, then if i let off the brake it would go pretty fast probably up to 20-25 mph without me even touching the gas. after 5 to 10 mins of driving it the idle would calm down and become normal. i posted a question about this before and someone said it was normal, BUT now that i got the sensor replaced, this issue has seemed to disappear. its been about 5 days since i got the car back and it hasn't done it since. but it did do it today but it only lasted for about a minute or two then corrected itself.
so my question is why is my car doing this shaking thing while im in drive? also is it normal that while idling my needle bounces between 800-1000 rpm? what can be the cause of this?
any suggestions?!? please help this is starting to become frustrating
NOW MY NEW QUESTION
my CEL came back on so i took it to autozone to get diagnosed and the guy said that it was an un recongizable code, so he gave me the code number and it was P1105. i belive thats the code for the map sensor. and so i looked into what a map sensor does a little more and it seems to fit my issue pretty well, so my new question would be could this map sensor be the issue to my problem?? also the hyperventilating thing did not fully go away, it still does it but not as bad. i really want to get rid of this on going issue!
so i have a 99 maxima SE auto, through my mechanic i just got my knock sensor done. back in feb. about a month after i bought the car the code came up for the knock sensor. so i was informed by the .org to just buy an eBay one because there is no difference besides saving $100. so i did that and 2 days before it got shipped to my house my check engine light went off so i thought ok, no big deal ill just save it. last month my cel came back on same codes as was before one for knock sensor oh and also i forgot to mention the code also for the egr valve. so i thought now would be a good time to get it replaced since i have the part.
so i brought it to my mechanic and he did it for me. i drove the car back home and as soon as i pulled in my driveway it was like hyperventilating, the rpms gauge kept fluttering up and down so i started to panic. i then called my mechanic and he said that "since my car isn't used to my sensor due to me not having a working one for a while the computer needs time to adjust to it and it should re-time itself after driving it 50 or so miles". so i probably have driven about 100 miles or pretty close to it by now and the hyperventilating thing DID go away, but now when i sit at a stoplight in drive sometimes my car would start to shake, when this happens my rpm's reads around 500 rpm, also i do notice that while in park just sitting ideling the rpm's needle starts to flutter a little but not much. it bounces in between 800 and 1000 rpm. when i had the knock sensor not working it would sit and idle at about600-800 rpm. so idk if this has anything to do with the problem.
also my maxima had some weird ideling issues going on. it would idle at 2000 rpm or more randomly after starting it but this wouldnt happen all the time, but this would even happen in like 85 degrees so i know that it was not the cold that caused this. after starting it and it having some pretty high idle i would put it in drive and it would like slam itself into gear, then if i let off the brake it would go pretty fast probably up to 20-25 mph without me even touching the gas. after 5 to 10 mins of driving it the idle would calm down and become normal. i posted a question about this before and someone said it was normal, BUT now that i got the sensor replaced, this issue has seemed to disappear. its been about 5 days since i got the car back and it hasn't done it since. but it did do it today but it only lasted for about a minute or two then corrected itself.
so my question is why is my car doing this shaking thing while im in drive? also is it normal that while idling my needle bounces between 800-1000 rpm? what can be the cause of this?
any suggestions?!? please help this is starting to become frustrating
NOW MY NEW QUESTION
my CEL came back on so i took it to autozone to get diagnosed and the guy said that it was an un recongizable code, so he gave me the code number and it was P1105. i belive thats the code for the map sensor. and so i looked into what a map sensor does a little more and it seems to fit my issue pretty well, so my new question would be could this map sensor be the issue to my problem?? also the hyperventilating thing did not fully go away, it still does it but not as bad. i really want to get rid of this on going issue!
06-18-2012 | 01:28 PM
#8568
so i origionally posted this below
so i have a 99 maxima SE auto, through my mechanic i just got my knock sensor done. back in feb. about a month after i bought the car the code came up for the knock sensor. so i was informed by the .org to just buy an eBay one because there is no difference besides saving $100. so i did that and 2 days before it got shipped to my house my check engine light went off so i thought ok, no big deal ill just save it. last month my cel came back on same codes as was before one for knock sensor oh and also i forgot to mention the code also for the egr valve. so i thought now would be a good time to get it replaced since i have the part.
so i brought it to my mechanic and he did it for me. i drove the car back home and as soon as i pulled in my driveway it was like hyperventilating, the rpms gauge kept fluttering up and down so i started to panic. i then called my mechanic and he said that "since my car isn't used to my sensor due to me not having a working one for a while the computer needs time to adjust to it and it should re-time itself after driving it 50 or so miles". so i probably have driven about 100 miles or pretty close to it by now and the hyperventilating thing DID go away, but now when i sit at a stoplight in drive sometimes my car would start to shake, when this happens my rpm's reads around 500 rpm, also i do notice that while in park just sitting ideling the rpm's needle starts to flutter a little but not much. it bounces in between 800 and 1000 rpm. when i had the knock sensor not working it would sit and idle at about600-800 rpm. so idk if this has anything to do with the problem.
also my maxima had some weird ideling issues going on. it would idle at 2000 rpm or more randomly after starting it but this wouldnt happen all the time, but this would even happen in like 85 degrees so i know that it was not the cold that caused this. after starting it and it having some pretty high idle i would put it in drive and it would like slam itself into gear, then if i let off the brake it would go pretty fast probably up to 20-25 mph without me even touching the gas. after 5 to 10 mins of driving it the idle would calm down and become normal. i posted a question about this before and someone said it was normal, BUT now that i got the sensor replaced, this issue has seemed to disappear. its been about 5 days since i got the car back and it hasn't done it since. but it did do it today but it only lasted for about a minute or two then corrected itself.
so my question is why is my car doing this shaking thing while im in drive? also is it normal that while idling my needle bounces between 800-1000 rpm? what can be the cause of this?
any suggestions?!? please help this is starting to become frustrating
NOW MY NEW QUESTION
my CEL came back on so i took it to autozone to get diagnosed and the guy said that it was an un recongizable code, so he gave me the code number and it was P1105. i belive thats the code for the map sensor. and so i looked into what a map sensor does a little more and it seems to fit my issue pretty well, so my new question would be could this map sensor be the issue to my problem?? also the hyperventilating thing did not fully go away, it still does it but not as bad. i really want to get rid of this on going issue!
so i have a 99 maxima SE auto, through my mechanic i just got my knock sensor done. back in feb. about a month after i bought the car the code came up for the knock sensor. so i was informed by the .org to just buy an eBay one because there is no difference besides saving $100. so i did that and 2 days before it got shipped to my house my check engine light went off so i thought ok, no big deal ill just save it. last month my cel came back on same codes as was before one for knock sensor oh and also i forgot to mention the code also for the egr valve. so i thought now would be a good time to get it replaced since i have the part.
so i brought it to my mechanic and he did it for me. i drove the car back home and as soon as i pulled in my driveway it was like hyperventilating, the rpms gauge kept fluttering up and down so i started to panic. i then called my mechanic and he said that "since my car isn't used to my sensor due to me not having a working one for a while the computer needs time to adjust to it and it should re-time itself after driving it 50 or so miles". so i probably have driven about 100 miles or pretty close to it by now and the hyperventilating thing DID go away, but now when i sit at a stoplight in drive sometimes my car would start to shake, when this happens my rpm's reads around 500 rpm, also i do notice that while in park just sitting ideling the rpm's needle starts to flutter a little but not much. it bounces in between 800 and 1000 rpm. when i had the knock sensor not working it would sit and idle at about600-800 rpm. so idk if this has anything to do with the problem.
also my maxima had some weird ideling issues going on. it would idle at 2000 rpm or more randomly after starting it but this wouldnt happen all the time, but this would even happen in like 85 degrees so i know that it was not the cold that caused this. after starting it and it having some pretty high idle i would put it in drive and it would like slam itself into gear, then if i let off the brake it would go pretty fast probably up to 20-25 mph without me even touching the gas. after 5 to 10 mins of driving it the idle would calm down and become normal. i posted a question about this before and someone said it was normal, BUT now that i got the sensor replaced, this issue has seemed to disappear. its been about 5 days since i got the car back and it hasn't done it since. but it did do it today but it only lasted for about a minute or two then corrected itself.
so my question is why is my car doing this shaking thing while im in drive? also is it normal that while idling my needle bounces between 800-1000 rpm? what can be the cause of this?
any suggestions?!? please help this is starting to become frustrating
NOW MY NEW QUESTION
my CEL came back on so i took it to autozone to get diagnosed and the guy said that it was an un recongizable code, so he gave me the code number and it was P1105. i belive thats the code for the map sensor. and so i looked into what a map sensor does a little more and it seems to fit my issue pretty well, so my new question would be could this map sensor be the issue to my problem?? also the hyperventilating thing did not fully go away, it still does it but not as bad. i really want to get rid of this on going issue!
There is a good possibility that the mechanic is the cause of the P1105 as this thing is in the way when you change the knock sensor. There is a good chance that one of the vacuum hoses got disconnected (there are 3 of them) or maybe he unplugged it and forgot about it. From the FSM:
Malfunction is detected when ....
MAP/BARO switch solenoid valve receives the voltage supplied though ECM does not supply the voltage to the valve.
There is little difference between MAP/BARO switch solenoid valve input voltage at ambient barometric pressure and that at intake manifold
pressure.
Check Items (Possible Cause):
Hoses (Hoses are clogged or disconnected.)
Harness or connectors (MAP/BARO switch solenoid valve circuit is open or shorted.)
Absolute pressure sensor
MAP/BARO switch solenoid valve
06-18-2012 | 05:32 PM
#8569
seeming i dont have the sticker under the hood and its not in the owners manuel and no thread on here gives me a strait answer. how many pounds of refigerant does it take to charge my a/c system. and if you ask i have the proper tools and training. im a tech myself i just need to know how many pounds it is for my 95 cause im not sure if it changed or not from the 98 which has 1.45 pounds
Last edited by Kuhn_man; 06-19-2012 at 12:34 AM.
06-18-2012 | 06:25 PM
#8570
seeming i dont have the sticker under the hood and its not in the owerns manuel and no thread on here gives me a strait answer how many pounds of refigerant does it take to charge my ac system. and if you ask i have the proper tools and traing. im a tech myself i just need to know how many pounds it is for my 95 cause im not sure if it changed or not from the 98 which has 1.45 pounds
Reference:
1995 FSM, section HA page 138
http://boredmder.com/FSMs/Nissan/Maxima/1995/HA.pdf
06-18-2012 | 07:01 PM
#8571
The specs are a little different from the 98's. The amount of refrigerant (R134a) is 1.764 +/- 0.055 pounds. And the lubricating oil is 8.5 oz.
Reference:
1995 FSM, section HA page 138
http://boredmder.com/FSMs/Nissan/Maxima/1995/HA.pdf
Reference:
1995 FSM, section HA page 138
http://boredmder.com/FSMs/Nissan/Maxima/1995/HA.pdf
06-19-2012 | 01:17 PM
#8572
Thank you so much for your help i brought it back to him today and he said he found a pinched vacuum line going to the map switch he fixed it and he said the car seems to be running better so now im satisfied
Last edited by 99maxwell; 06-20-2012 at 12:58 PM.
06-21-2012 | 11:21 AM
#8573
hey guys got a quick, yet really newbie 
, question. I gotta change my bushings on my left LCA and i was looking on ebay for the parts. Im not sure if i need one or two of them..so my question is should i get something like this
http://www.ebay.com/itm/501-Altima-M...#ht_500wt_1180
or should i get something like this
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Front-Contro...ht_1284wt_1396
thanks in advance!
, question. I gotta change my bushings on my left LCA and i was looking on ebay for the parts. Im not sure if i need one or two of them..so my question is should i get something like this http://www.ebay.com/itm/501-Altima-M...#ht_500wt_1180
or should i get something like this
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Front-Contro...ht_1284wt_1396
thanks in advance!
06-22-2012 | 09:34 AM
#8574
Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 59
From: chicago, IL
Hey my name is niko and I rensently got a 1998 maxima 5 speed, it came with a greddy full exhaust and a injen cold air intake system, also tokico shocks and springs, so far its been gud to me but a few days ago my girl was driving and she put regular gas in and it was making a wine noise and I put the 89 and it stoped is this a commen problem. Also I was told the nock sensor needs to be replaced I took it to a few shops and told them the problem and they all laugh and started shaking there head and told me to sell the car, it kinda maid me mad but what can u do!!!
06-22-2012 | 09:40 AM
#8575
Hey my name is niko and I rensently got a 1998 maxima 5 speed, it came with a greddy full exhaust and a injen cold air intake system, also tokico shocks and springs, so far its been gud to me but a few days ago my girl was driving and she put regular gas in and it was making a wine noise and I put the 89 and it stoped is this a commen problem. Also I was told the nock sensor needs to be replaced I took it to a few shops and told them the problem and they all laugh and started shaking there head and told me to sell the car, it kinda maid me mad but what can u do!!!
Nissan recomments PREMIUM fuel, so yeah, when you put regular cheap **** in it will act like that. Don't let her drive anymore
KNOCK sensor neets to be replaced...that's common as well. How is drivability? knock sensor is usually a ghost code and doesn't need to be changed UNLESS you regularly use cheap gas (and 89 is considered cheap gas...remember, Nissan recommends premium). They're not as hard in your 98 as they would be in, say, the 99 Cali spec, but they're still a little bit tight. Look around the forums, you'll see why. wear gloves (as thin as you can) and be prepared for some bloody knuckes.
06-22-2012 | 10:41 AM
#8576
Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 59
From: chicago, IL
The car drives wounderful besides the exhaust leak I can't find - also when I'm in any gear it feels like I'm in nuetral why is that, one more thing is this model driving by chain or belt and how reliable is this this motor cause I'm looking to do a turboset up - now I'm not new in the nissan world I've had a lot of 240sx turbo I'm just not to sure about this model what proper percidures should I take before I boost her
06-22-2012 | 11:00 AM
#8577
hey guys got a quick, yet really newbie , question. I gotta change my bushings on my left LCA and i was looking on ebay for the parts. Im not sure if i need one or two of them..so my question is should i get something like this
http://www.ebay.com/itm/501-Altima-M...#ht_500wt_1180
or should i get something like this
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Front-Contro...ht_1284wt_1396
thanks in advance!
, question. I gotta change my bushings on my left LCA and i was looking on ebay for the parts. Im not sure if i need one or two of them..so my question is should i get something like this http://www.ebay.com/itm/501-Altima-M...#ht_500wt_1180
or should i get something like this
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Front-Contro...ht_1284wt_1396
thanks in advance!
The second link is a full set and is for both left and right sides of the car.
06-22-2012 | 11:03 AM
#8578
Find the exhaust leak.
Is your tranny auto or 5 speed? "feels like in neutral"..can you describe more?
^^ these two dont' sound like it drives fine...use better gas, ESPECIALLY if you're wantting to turbo or sc or whatever.
Timing chain driven, these motors are. (yoda voice)
Thest motors are incredibly reliable, go 300K easy.
Is your tranny auto or 5 speed? "feels like in neutral"..can you describe more?
^^ these two dont' sound like it drives fine...use better gas, ESPECIALLY if you're wantting to turbo or sc or whatever.
Timing chain driven, these motors are. (yoda voice)
Thest motors are incredibly reliable, go 300K easy.
06-22-2012 | 11:50 AM
#8579
Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 59
From: chicago, IL
Ok pretend your driving with the car off and your playing with the shifter in nuetral right, now on my car when I'm in 1st 2nd 3rd 4th 5th and reverse it feels like I'm in nuetral meaning I can move the shifter right to left as if I was in nuetral
And as far as fuel I will be using the highest gas from now on -also I found the post for turbos/sc but it doesn't say what prosedures I should do before I. Turbo this car I'm not asking what I need or what set up there are there are a crap load of treads on that I'm asking is there any thing I should look/watch for before going thru with this set up
Oh and I have a 5 speed manual
And as far as fuel I will be using the highest gas from now on -also I found the post for turbos/sc but it doesn't say what prosedures I should do before I. Turbo this car I'm not asking what I need or what set up there are there are a crap load of treads on that I'm asking is there any thing I should look/watch for before going thru with this set up
Oh and I have a 5 speed manual
Last edited by niko_jdm; 06-22-2012 at 11:53 AM.
06-22-2012 | 11:57 AM
#8580
Maybe your shifter linkage is sloppy? I've got an auto so can't help ya there.
re: turbo, probably just make srue the engine itself is in the BEST working order it can be in, no point in turboing a motor that isn't running top top, y'know?
re: turbo, probably just make srue the engine itself is in the BEST working order it can be in, no point in turboing a motor that isn't running top top, y'know?
06-22-2012 | 02:27 PM
#8581
The LCA has 2 mounting points, so you would need 2 bushings per LCA. Those 2 bushings are not the same. The first link is only half of what you need unless you only intend to replace the one. Personally I would do both because of all the work required to get the LCA off.
The second link is a full set and is for both left and right sides of the car.
The second link is a full set and is for both left and right sides of the car.
Now reading the last couple of posts on the gas issue..i've always put the cheap 87 one (87 here in vancouver, BC) and ive never had any issues or what not and i thought i had heard 87 is fine in these cars but now ppl are saying go premium? am i missing something haha? like when i had my honda prelude it recommended 91+ so thats what i used but i thought i read that for these maxima's 87 is ok
06-22-2012 | 02:42 PM
#8582
for maximas premium is RECOMMENDED, not required. It should say it right inside the gas door as a matter of fact...
HOWEVER, if you use cheap stuff all the time, your engine will not be as efficient and will retard timing to avoid knock, and you won't have the peak performance otherwise.
for under 5 bucks extra per fill up it's a no-brainer.
HOWEVER, if you use cheap stuff all the time, your engine will not be as efficient and will retard timing to avoid knock, and you won't have the peak performance otherwise.
for under 5 bucks extra per fill up it's a no-brainer.
06-22-2012 | 03:10 PM
#8584
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 6
Noob 2006 Maxima owner Help?
Kind of a dilemma and sorry for the novel. I have been through hell this past month. This car has ran great till now. The dreaded timing chain tensioners and guides were just done. Had the Chain work and the spark plugs done at the same time 1965 out the door from reliable auto in Illinois. Picked the car up on Tuesday this week. When I hopped in it for the 1st time I came to notice that the car wouldn't accelarate correctly it almost felt as I was dragging a boat behind me. Mechanic drove it around and it died on him was able to get it restarted cleaned the throttle body then found out his machine couldn't relearn the idle. Was able to make it to nissan the shop payed for it good to go! Well thats what I thought driving that night did the same a real loud bang when I shifted into reverse and the car would barely move turned it off then on drove ok made it home. Decided maybe just a brain fart from having the battery disconnected for so long nope. Took it out maybe 5 miles going up to 45-50 mph car dies TCS off slip and SES light come on. Had it towed back to the shop replaced the Crank Sensor that what the code shows. Took it 100 plus miles the past couple days no lights but crazy paranoia that there is something just not right. I still feel as if there is something up with my RPMs the tach is as if it is really flimsy hard to describe. During downshifting it feels as if something is pulling and during acceleration it feel as if the RPMs arent matching what the amount of gas I am putting into it and sometime feel the same little jerk that caused my car to die before . This shop had fantastic reviews all over but now its got me thinking did they really know what they are doing. Any help my brain is fried. Thanks all
06-27-2012 | 05:51 PM
#8586
i have a question, i want to clean my MAF but i cant find any how-to's on how to do it with pictures. can someone direct me on where to find on how to do it with pictures included for a newb like me! thanks in advance!
06-27-2012 | 06:35 PM
#8587
Member
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 237
From: winchester,ky
Im not for sure if there is any pictures but i know all u do is go to walmart or nearest part store buy a can of the mass air flow cleaner..take ur maf off unplug it and just spray the sensor in the middle of it..let it dry and hook ur air induction back up or ur cai and go
06-27-2012 | 07:37 PM
#8588
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 1,528
From: Maine
Click the link in my Sig for 4th gen how to's then find the one for how to clean your MAF.
06-27-2012 | 08:51 PM
#8589
HowTo: Clean The Mass Airflow Sensor (MAF), TB, Idle Air Control valve (IACV), and Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) - Link
but it does not have any pictures and idk where to start but i feel like it really needs to be cleaned. btw i'm real sorry i'm a total noob.
ok so what i pretty much need to know is the MAF thing i'm supposed to clean connected to the air intake where the MAF sensor is? do i disconnect the sensor then take that off? its held on by 4 little screws. once again, sorry for the noobness
Last edited by 99maxwell; 06-27-2012 at 09:22 PM.
06-28-2012 | 06:25 AM
#8590
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 1,528
From: Maine
thats the thing though, the only one in the how to's is this one
HowTo: Clean The Mass Airflow Sensor (MAF), TB, Idle Air Control valve (IACV), and Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) - Link
but it does not have any pictures and idk where to start but i feel like it really needs to be cleaned. btw i'm real sorry i'm a total noob.
ok so what i pretty much need to know is the MAF thing i'm supposed to clean connected to the air intake where the MAF sensor is? do i disconnect the sensor then take that off? its held on by 4 little screws. once again, sorry for the noobness
HowTo: Clean The Mass Airflow Sensor (MAF), TB, Idle Air Control valve (IACV), and Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) - Link
but it does not have any pictures and idk where to start but i feel like it really needs to be cleaned. btw i'm real sorry i'm a total noob.
ok so what i pretty much need to know is the MAF thing i'm supposed to clean connected to the air intake where the MAF sensor is? do i disconnect the sensor then take that off? its held on by 4 little screws. once again, sorry for the noobness
Pic of engine showing where MAF is.
http://c.fixya.net/fixya20/uploads/Images/BF3F5CD.gif
Pic of MAF when removed
http://cdn3.autopartsnetwork.com/ima...410035-bot.jpg
06-28-2012 | 09:47 AM
#8591
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 4
From: Albuquerque
Yesterday I started my maxima up and noticed a weird knocking and shaking. I continued to drive when the check engine light started to blink, this is where I became worried. I took her to the local O'Reilly to get the OBDII checked out with the corresponding codes. These are the codes that came out: p0302 Cylinder 2 misfire, p0325 Knock sensor 1 Circuit malfunction (x2), p1447 EVAP Control System purge flow. It has no trouble cold starting, I recently replaced the alternator. I need all the help I can get. BTW its a 1997 Maxima with 231k miles.
06-28-2012 | 09:52 AM
#8592
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 1,528
From: Maine
Yesterday I started my maxima up and noticed a weird knocking and shaking. I continued to drive when the check engine light started to blink, this is where I became worried. I took her to the local O'Reilly to get the OBDII checked out with the corresponding codes. These are the codes that came out: p0302 Cylinder 2 misfire, p0325 Knock sensor 1 Circuit malfunction (x2), p1447 EVAP Control System purge flow. It has no trouble cold starting, I recently replaced the alternator. I need all the help I can get. BTW its a 1997 Maxima with 231k miles.
06-28-2012 | 02:56 PM
#8596
there arent any performance chips for our cars... you need to tune via a piggy back system, or modified ecu from the likes of JWT or TS... Jim Wolf Technology, Technosquare...
And I cant believe you bumped a 9 year old thread a minute ago... WTF
And I cant believe you bumped a 9 year old thread a minute ago... WTF
06-30-2012 | 01:02 AM
#8597
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 1,096
From: Salt Lake City, UT
There isn't a good legitimate way to "chip" these cars. As said, it would require a reflashed ECU like a Jim Wolf Tech ECU or something to piggy back tune with such as a Greddy E-Manage.
07-05-2012 | 01:00 PM
#8598
so i've been trying to do some reading before posting this and looking at other multiple threads. Now i hope i have searched enough, but you never know perhaps i missed something so i thought i'd ask in here. Since my rack n pinion is going, i need to replace it ( it got my bushings on lca all wet and rotting so im replacing the bushings too) so i guess my question is what else should i replace since the rack n pinion will be replaced? from what i found from other threads i should do inner n outer rod as well? i'll also be replacing my right wheel bearing, and probably the knuckle as well since ive been riding on it bad for couple of weeks, so im just guessing the knuckle is shot too. I guess what im trying to find out is what do you recommend i change as well now that these things will be changed? thanks in advance! and sorry if i didnt do my search well enough haha =/ car has about 264k km's
07-05-2012 | 01:07 PM
#8599
I don't know of all the things you want to replace along with it, but I would imagine your PS hoses, dust boots, etc...I DO know that you want to replace it with a 99 steering rack...the 99s are better than 95-98. Stiffer / better design or somethin.
07-07-2012 | 10:50 PM
#8600
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 4
Replacing radiator, anything else I should do?
1997 Maxima SE w/stick, 163k. My radiator (stock) is leaking (top plastic) and couldn't seal with cold weld.
Since I am resigned to pull and replace the radiator, my question is should I replace anything else as a matter of course? The intake and outlet hose look OK and the water pump seems fine, but they are all 15 years old
(And I remember how crappy the hose were in my old 260Z when I had to replace the radiator 'cause the water pump broke and the fan sliced up the radiator ... hopefully the newer stuff is better)
1997 Maxima SE w/stick, 163k. My radiator (stock) is leaking (top plastic) and couldn't seal with cold weld.
Since I am resigned to pull and replace the radiator, my question is should I replace anything else as a matter of course? The intake and outlet hose look OK and the water pump seems fine, but they are all 15 years old
(And I remember how crappy the hose were in my old 260Z when I had to replace the radiator 'cause the water pump broke and the fan sliced up the radiator ... hopefully the newer stuff is better)