NOOBIES: "I AM NEW HERE BUT HAVE A QUESTION" thread. Read FIRST post BEFORE posting!
02-10-2014 | 08:35 PM
#9121
Summary:
95 GLE (Automatic transmission).
No modifications I know about (other than aftermarket alarm).
Purchased with odometer already frozen at 208,000.
No idea of actual mileage.
Bought car a few weeks ago.
Recently had issues with starting.
Now it will not start -- at all.
Alternator checked out fine.
Brand new battery did not fix the issue.
Possible reason for problem: aftermarket alarm activating killswitch on starter.
Other possible reasons for problem: bad starter or ignition?
Detailed history of problem:
Problem began after lights were left on, and I received a jump start. The alarm sounded after jump start, so I removed the alarm fuse and the sound stopped. AAA mechanic tested and verified that there is nothing draining the battery. AAA mechanic tested alternator -- and the alternator is fine.
Car worked for a couple days. Then it would not start. This time, I attached an overnight charger that was plugged into my carport. The clamps on charger were too tiny to clamp onto the battery properly (not even the bolts) so therefore I disconnected the battery cables and put the clamps on it to start it.
After battery charged, I disconnected charger and reconnected battery and started car. It started right up.
But an hour later, I went to start car and it would NOT start.
Removed battery, and got friend to drive me to store to buy new battery. Installed new battery. But car would not start.
A non-mechanical friend had a hunch looked at the cable from the starter to the battery. It seemed loose where it was connected to the battery. He tightened it. Car started right up.
An hour later, I started car, after several tries. I drove directly to O'Reilly's auto parts store. I told the staff what was happening and they came outside to check. They verified that the starter cable was correctly attached to the battery -- and that everything about the battery was correctly connected. They also verified the alternator is okay.
The O'Reilly's guys asked me to start the car for them to show them what difficulties I was having. But it wouldn't start at all. No noise. No click. No nothing. Yet the lights, electric windows, clock, wipers, etc all work fine. They tried several things, including tapping on the starter with a hammer, etc. They had me hold the ignition in the ON position while they were testing. Nothing worked. They guessed it was bad starter but said this could not be known unless starter were removed and replaced.
I had car towed to a mechanic's garage. He did some tests. He thinks that this is an issue with the battery having been replaced – that perhaps the kill switch on the starter was activated -- due to issues with the alarm. He said it is an aftermarket alarm, and he says he doesn't have the knowledge how to safely/efficiently disable the aftermarket alarm system so that the starter will work.
What I need to know: How to safely/effectively disable aftermarket alarm -- to see if the starter works.
Also need any ideas you can suggest as to what I should try.
Note: I am very broke and do not want to buy starter unless I must.
I googled disabling aftermarket alarms and found this video. Tell me if this make sense:
Thank you for being here.
-----------------
Background history of my ownership of this car
(in case you are wondering)
Bought car on craigslist for $800.00. Do not have any prior repair history. It was the best car I could find for the limited funds I had available.
I'm an older person, and I am ignorant of mechanical things, and I know nothing about cars. But I want to learn to be independent and fix things myself when possible.
Since I bought my Maxima, I have done the following to educate myself:
I have been reading here at maxima.org.
I borrowed the Haynes manual from the public library.
I downloaded the Factory Service Manual onto my hard drive.
However, I am broke and own no tools.
I have friends who can help me at a discounted rate, on condition that I do as much research as possible on my own.
95 GLE (Automatic transmission).
No modifications I know about (other than aftermarket alarm).
Purchased with odometer already frozen at 208,000.
No idea of actual mileage.
Bought car a few weeks ago.
Recently had issues with starting.
Now it will not start -- at all.
Alternator checked out fine.
Brand new battery did not fix the issue.
Possible reason for problem: aftermarket alarm activating killswitch on starter.
Other possible reasons for problem: bad starter or ignition?
Detailed history of problem:
Problem began after lights were left on, and I received a jump start. The alarm sounded after jump start, so I removed the alarm fuse and the sound stopped. AAA mechanic tested and verified that there is nothing draining the battery. AAA mechanic tested alternator -- and the alternator is fine.
Car worked for a couple days. Then it would not start. This time, I attached an overnight charger that was plugged into my carport. The clamps on charger were too tiny to clamp onto the battery properly (not even the bolts) so therefore I disconnected the battery cables and put the clamps on it to start it.
After battery charged, I disconnected charger and reconnected battery and started car. It started right up.
But an hour later, I went to start car and it would NOT start.
Removed battery, and got friend to drive me to store to buy new battery. Installed new battery. But car would not start.
A non-mechanical friend had a hunch looked at the cable from the starter to the battery. It seemed loose where it was connected to the battery. He tightened it. Car started right up.
An hour later, I started car, after several tries. I drove directly to O'Reilly's auto parts store. I told the staff what was happening and they came outside to check. They verified that the starter cable was correctly attached to the battery -- and that everything about the battery was correctly connected. They also verified the alternator is okay.
The O'Reilly's guys asked me to start the car for them to show them what difficulties I was having. But it wouldn't start at all. No noise. No click. No nothing. Yet the lights, electric windows, clock, wipers, etc all work fine. They tried several things, including tapping on the starter with a hammer, etc. They had me hold the ignition in the ON position while they were testing. Nothing worked. They guessed it was bad starter but said this could not be known unless starter were removed and replaced.
I had car towed to a mechanic's garage. He did some tests. He thinks that this is an issue with the battery having been replaced – that perhaps the kill switch on the starter was activated -- due to issues with the alarm. He said it is an aftermarket alarm, and he says he doesn't have the knowledge how to safely/efficiently disable the aftermarket alarm system so that the starter will work.
What I need to know: How to safely/effectively disable aftermarket alarm -- to see if the starter works.
Also need any ideas you can suggest as to what I should try.
Note: I am very broke and do not want to buy starter unless I must.
I googled disabling aftermarket alarms and found this video. Tell me if this make sense:
Thank you for being here.
-----------------
Background history of my ownership of this car
(in case you are wondering)
Bought car on craigslist for $800.00. Do not have any prior repair history. It was the best car I could find for the limited funds I had available.
I'm an older person, and I am ignorant of mechanical things, and I know nothing about cars. But I want to learn to be independent and fix things myself when possible.
Since I bought my Maxima, I have done the following to educate myself:
I have been reading here at maxima.org.
I borrowed the Haynes manual from the public library.
I downloaded the Factory Service Manual onto my hard drive.
However, I am broke and own no tools.
I have friends who can help me at a discounted rate, on condition that I do as much research as possible on my own.
But a somewhat too common happening with the Maxima is that the ignition switch goes bad where the contacts for the start position go bad. The ignition switch screws onto the back of the ignition key lock cylinder. You can remove the ignition switch and turn it with a screwdriver and sometimes it will work. If that is the case, you can shim the tab from the lock cylinder that normally operates the switch.
But if the car doesn't start when when you turn the ignition switch with a screwdriver, you still don't know if the ignition switch is good or bad. Now you are going to need tools to troubleshoot with. Since this is an electrical problem, you need either a test light or a voltmeter. Test lights are under $5, cheaper than a volt meter and is just fine for this problem.
If you have the Nissan service manual, look on page 28 in section EL (electrical). Without an aftermarket alarm, the power to start the car comes from the battery, through fuse D, through the ignition switch, through the inhibitor relay and to the starter solenoid. An aftermarket alarm system that is installed under the dash would most logically go in between the ignition switch and the inhibitor relay.
So what you need to do is use the test light to check and see if voltage is coming out of the ignition switch. The wiring diagram shows that the wire with the 12 volts for the starter comes out of the ignition switch on a black with white stripe wire. But you will not find a black with white stripe wire on the back of the ignition switch. Nissan does not make the ignition switch and the company that does make the switch doesn't care what color Nissan wants and uses what ever color they have laying around at that particular moment. but where the ignition switch plugs into the Nissan wire harness is where you will find the black with white stripe wire. So work your test light probe into the connector with the black with white stripe wire and turn the ignition switch to start position and see if the test light lights up. If the test light does not light up, you have a bad ignition switch.
If the test light lights up, the testing process moves to the next spot, the inhibitor relay. This relay is under the hood in a box in front of the battery. The cover labels the relay "INHIBIT/CLUTCH INTER LOCK". Also see page 283 in section EL of the service manual. You will need to remove the relay and place the test light probe in pin 6 of the relay socket. Look on the bottom of the relay itself for the pin number arrangement. Turn the ignition switch to the start position. If the test light does not light up, there is a problem between the ignition switch and the relay, such as the aftermarket alarm.
If the test light lights up, the testing process moves to the next spot, the inhibitor relay. What the previous step just did is verify that 12 volts was getting to the relay. Now we need to test to see if 12 volts is getting through (or coming out of) the relay. We need to check pin 7 of the relay for this. The relay needs to be plugged in for this, but we can't test with the relay plugged in. So we have to go about this in another way.
The output of the inhibitor relay goes to the starter solenoid, so we can test at the starter. But you have to pull the air filter housing off to get to the starter solenoid. There is another way to test and see if the inhibitor relay is working. You remove the inhibitor relay from its socket and jumper 12 volts to pin 7 in the socket. If the starter does not crank when you jumper the 12 volts, you have a starter problem.
But if the starter cranks, then 12 volts is not getting through the inhibitor relay. So does that mean the relay is bad? Not necessarily. Statistically, probably not. Relays don't go bad that often. What is more likely the case is that something is preventing the relay from working. There are 2 things that can cause this.
There is the theft warning relay and the park/neutral switch in the transmission. Have you ever tried to start the car with the transmission in neutral? It is designed to. Try it.
You can also put a jumper in the inhibitor relay socket between pins 6 and 7. this would effectively eliminate the theft warning relay and the park/neutral switch in the transmission. But a word of warning. If you do this, the car will start in ANY transmission gear position. Also, the cruise control won't work with the inhibitor relay unplugged. This can also be gotten around with another jumper, but it carries another set of warnings.
02-11-2014 | 11:49 AM
#9123
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 2
re: 95 GLE won't start. New battery. Alternator ok. Alarm issue?
I don't know what to say about the after market alarm. I have read lots of threads where the alarm did interfere with the car's working. I don't work with alarms so I don't know about the accuracy of the video in regards to how well it applies to all alarms. You could always look under the dash for a relay like the video shows.
But a somewhat too common happening with the Maxima is that the ignition switch goes bad where the contacts for the start position go bad. The ignition switch screws onto the back of the ignition key lock cylinder. You can remove the ignition switch and turn it with a screwdriver and sometimes it will work. If that is the case, you can shim the tab from the lock cylinder that normally operates the switch.
But if the car doesn't start when when you turn the ignition switch with a screwdriver, you still don't know if the ignition switch is good or bad. Now you are going to need tools to troubleshoot with. Since this is an electrical problem, you need either a test light or a voltmeter. Test lights are under $5, cheaper than a volt meter and is just fine for this problem.
If you have the Nissan service manual, look on page 28 in section EL (electrical). Without an aftermarket alarm, the power to start the car comes from the battery, through fuse D, through the ignition switch, through the inhibitor relay and to the starter solenoid. An aftermarket alarm system that is installed under the dash would most logically go in between the ignition switch and the inhibitor relay.
So what you need to do is use the test light to check and see if voltage is coming out of the ignition switch. The wiring diagram shows that the wire with the 12 volts for the starter comes out of the ignition switch on a black with white stripe wire. But you will not find a black with white stripe wire on the back of the ignition switch. Nissan does not make the ignition switch and the company that does make the switch doesn't care what color Nissan wants and uses what ever color they have laying around at that particular moment. but where the ignition switch plugs into the Nissan wire harness is where you will find the black with white stripe wire. So work your test light probe into the connector with the black with white stripe wire and turn the ignition switch to start position and see if the test light lights up. If the test light does not light up, you have a bad ignition switch.
If the test light lights up, the testing process moves to the next spot, the inhibitor relay. This relay is under the hood in a box in front of the battery. The cover labels the relay "INHIBIT/CLUTCH INTER LOCK". Also see page 283 in section EL of the service manual. You will need to remove the relay and place the test light probe in pin 6 of the relay socket. Look on the bottom of the relay itself for the pin number arrangement. Turn the ignition switch to the start position. If the test light does not light up, there is a problem between the ignition switch and the relay, such as the aftermarket alarm.
If the test light lights up, the testing process moves to the next spot, the inhibitor relay. What the previous step just did is verify that 12 volts was getting to the relay. Now we need to test to see if 12 volts is getting through (or coming out of) the relay. We need to check pin 7 of the relay for this. The relay needs to be plugged in for this, but we can't test with the relay plugged in. So we have to go about this in another way.
The output of the inhibitor relay goes to the starter solenoid, so we can test at the starter. But you have to pull the air filter housing off to get to the starter solenoid. There is another way to test and see if the inhibitor relay is working. You remove the inhibitor relay from its socket and jumper 12 volts to pin 7 in the socket. If the starter does not crank when you jumper the 12 volts, you have a starter problem.
But if the starter cranks, then 12 volts is not getting through the inhibitor relay. So does that mean the relay is bad? Not necessarily. Statistically, probably not. Relays don't go bad that often. What is more likely the case is that something is preventing the relay from working. There are 2 things that can cause this.
There is the theft warning relay and the park/neutral switch in the transmission. Have you ever tried to start the car with the transmission in neutral? It is designed to. Try it.
You can also put a jumper in the inhibitor relay socket between pins 6 and 7. this would effectively eliminate the theft warning relay and the park/neutral switch in the transmission. But a word of warning. If you do this, the car will start in ANY transmission gear position. Also, the cruise control won't work with the inhibitor relay unplugged. This can also be gotten around with another jumper, but it carries another set of warnings.
But a somewhat too common happening with the Maxima is that the ignition switch goes bad where the contacts for the start position go bad. The ignition switch screws onto the back of the ignition key lock cylinder. You can remove the ignition switch and turn it with a screwdriver and sometimes it will work. If that is the case, you can shim the tab from the lock cylinder that normally operates the switch.
But if the car doesn't start when when you turn the ignition switch with a screwdriver, you still don't know if the ignition switch is good or bad. Now you are going to need tools to troubleshoot with. Since this is an electrical problem, you need either a test light or a voltmeter. Test lights are under $5, cheaper than a volt meter and is just fine for this problem.
If you have the Nissan service manual, look on page 28 in section EL (electrical). Without an aftermarket alarm, the power to start the car comes from the battery, through fuse D, through the ignition switch, through the inhibitor relay and to the starter solenoid. An aftermarket alarm system that is installed under the dash would most logically go in between the ignition switch and the inhibitor relay.
So what you need to do is use the test light to check and see if voltage is coming out of the ignition switch. The wiring diagram shows that the wire with the 12 volts for the starter comes out of the ignition switch on a black with white stripe wire. But you will not find a black with white stripe wire on the back of the ignition switch. Nissan does not make the ignition switch and the company that does make the switch doesn't care what color Nissan wants and uses what ever color they have laying around at that particular moment. but where the ignition switch plugs into the Nissan wire harness is where you will find the black with white stripe wire. So work your test light probe into the connector with the black with white stripe wire and turn the ignition switch to start position and see if the test light lights up. If the test light does not light up, you have a bad ignition switch.
If the test light lights up, the testing process moves to the next spot, the inhibitor relay. This relay is under the hood in a box in front of the battery. The cover labels the relay "INHIBIT/CLUTCH INTER LOCK". Also see page 283 in section EL of the service manual. You will need to remove the relay and place the test light probe in pin 6 of the relay socket. Look on the bottom of the relay itself for the pin number arrangement. Turn the ignition switch to the start position. If the test light does not light up, there is a problem between the ignition switch and the relay, such as the aftermarket alarm.
If the test light lights up, the testing process moves to the next spot, the inhibitor relay. What the previous step just did is verify that 12 volts was getting to the relay. Now we need to test to see if 12 volts is getting through (or coming out of) the relay. We need to check pin 7 of the relay for this. The relay needs to be plugged in for this, but we can't test with the relay plugged in. So we have to go about this in another way.
The output of the inhibitor relay goes to the starter solenoid, so we can test at the starter. But you have to pull the air filter housing off to get to the starter solenoid. There is another way to test and see if the inhibitor relay is working. You remove the inhibitor relay from its socket and jumper 12 volts to pin 7 in the socket. If the starter does not crank when you jumper the 12 volts, you have a starter problem.
But if the starter cranks, then 12 volts is not getting through the inhibitor relay. So does that mean the relay is bad? Not necessarily. Statistically, probably not. Relays don't go bad that often. What is more likely the case is that something is preventing the relay from working. There are 2 things that can cause this.
There is the theft warning relay and the park/neutral switch in the transmission. Have you ever tried to start the car with the transmission in neutral? It is designed to. Try it.
You can also put a jumper in the inhibitor relay socket between pins 6 and 7. this would effectively eliminate the theft warning relay and the park/neutral switch in the transmission. But a word of warning. If you do this, the car will start in ANY transmission gear position. Also, the cruise control won't work with the inhibitor relay unplugged. This can also be gotten around with another jumper, but it carries another set of warnings.
Thanks for the reply DennisMik. I will try your suggestions.
Last edited by GoldieMax95; 02-11-2014 at 06:19 PM.
02-17-2014 | 11:38 AM
#9124
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 307
does anyone know if the revolution speed sensor is also called the abs speed sensor, and do they change in each maxima from 96 to 99 because the one I see in my can is like silver all around from the picture above, but i see some that are black aswell, Thanks in advance
02-17-2014 | 12:09 PM
#9125
Member
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 290
does anyone know if the revolution speed sensor is also called the abs speed sensor, and do they change in each maxima from 96 to 99 because the one I see in my can is like silver all around from the picture above, but i see some that are black aswell, Thanks in advance
02-17-2014 | 12:20 PM
#9126
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 307
my car doesn't have abs either, i just wanted to know if there the same thing... this is the part number for the part i need, i hope someone as one for a really good price
3193580X02
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...3247&ppt=C0033
3193580X02
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...3247&ppt=C0033
02-17-2014 | 01:10 PM
#9127
does anyone know if the revolution speed sensor is also called the abs speed sensor, and do they change in each maxima from 96 to 99 because the one I see in my can is like silver all around from the picture above, but i see some that are black aswell, Thanks in advance
my car doesn't have abs either, i just wanted to know if there the same thing... this is the part number for the part i need, i hope someone as one for a really good price
3193580X02
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...3247&ppt=C0033
3193580X02
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...3247&ppt=C0033
02-17-2014 | 01:25 PM
#9128
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 307
Ok thanks for the reply, do you know anyone selling the revolution speed sensor for a good price on here or anywhere close to queens or brooklyn new york, i wanna get a used one before i go ahead, and get a brand new one when it could not be the problem I'm facing, Thanks in advance
02-17-2014 | 06:41 PM
#9129
Ok thanks for the reply, do you know anyone selling the revolution speed sensor for a good price on here or anywhere close to queens or brooklyn new york, i wanna get a used one before i go ahead, and get a brand new one when it could not be the problem I'm facing, Thanks in advance
You could pm Maxima_Joe here on the org. He has lots of parts.
02-25-2014 | 04:03 AM
#9130
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 307
Thanks for the advice Dennis, I did get the part from Maxima Joe along with other stuff, got it pretty fast, and it worked great so far, the p0600 code doesn't show up nor does the one for the revolution speed sensor, or the 4 gear ratio, so I was right, the p0720 code was the only one needed fixing, I'm all good now
P.S is buying a used OEM coil pack a good choice or bad?
P.S is buying a used OEM coil pack a good choice or bad?
02-25-2014 | 11:01 AM
#9131
The answer is a definite MAYBE.
It depends on several factors. If the used coil has a lot of miles on it, say 125K, it is approaching its failure point. Of course there is no specific point that anyone can say is the failure point, but the more use it has, the less life it has left.
Then you have to consider how long you would like that coil to last for you. If expect it to last 5 years, a high mileage, used coil isn't a good idea.
Then there is the mighty dollar. How many of them do you have? Sometimes you have to go cheap because it is all you can do.
If you can afford $60 for a coil, a good deal is on rockauto.com. They have the Denso Hanshin brand. This is the brand Nissan uses.
Just stay away from the e-bay 6 for $100 specials if you intend to keep the car more than 6 months.
It depends on several factors. If the used coil has a lot of miles on it, say 125K, it is approaching its failure point. Of course there is no specific point that anyone can say is the failure point, but the more use it has, the less life it has left.
Then you have to consider how long you would like that coil to last for you. If expect it to last 5 years, a high mileage, used coil isn't a good idea.
Then there is the mighty dollar. How many of them do you have? Sometimes you have to go cheap because it is all you can do.
If you can afford $60 for a coil, a good deal is on rockauto.com. They have the Denso Hanshin brand. This is the brand Nissan uses.
Just stay away from the e-bay 6 for $100 specials if you intend to keep the car more than 6 months.
02-25-2014 | 11:19 AM
#9132
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 307
The answer is a definite MAYBE.
It depends on several factors. If the used coil has a lot of miles on it, say 125K, it is approaching its failure point. Of course there is no specific point that anyone can say is the failure point, but the more use it has, the less life it has left.
Then you have to consider how long you would like that coil to last for you. If expect it to last 5 years, a high mileage, used coil isn't a good idea.
Then there is the mighty dollar. How many of them do you have? Sometimes you have to go cheap because it is all you can do.
If you can afford $60 for a coil, a good deal is on rockauto.com. They have the Denso Hanshin brand. This is the brand Nissan uses.
Just stay away from the e-bay 6 for $100 specials if you intend to keep the car more than 6 months.
It depends on several factors. If the used coil has a lot of miles on it, say 125K, it is approaching its failure point. Of course there is no specific point that anyone can say is the failure point, but the more use it has, the less life it has left.
Then you have to consider how long you would like that coil to last for you. If expect it to last 5 years, a high mileage, used coil isn't a good idea.
Then there is the mighty dollar. How many of them do you have? Sometimes you have to go cheap because it is all you can do.
If you can afford $60 for a coil, a good deal is on rockauto.com. They have the Denso Hanshin brand. This is the brand Nissan uses.
Just stay away from the e-bay 6 for $100 specials if you intend to keep the car more than 6 months.
02-26-2014 | 10:29 AM
#9133
Member
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 290
The answer is a definite MAYBE.
It depends on several factors. If the used coil has a lot of miles on it, say 125K, it is approaching its failure point. Of course there is no specific point that anyone can say is the failure point, but the more use it has, the less life it has left.
Then you have to consider how long you would like that coil to last for you. If expect it to last 5 years, a high mileage, used coil isn't a good idea.
Then there is the mighty dollar. How many of them do you have? Sometimes you have to go cheap because it is all you can do.
If you can afford $60 for a coil, a good deal is on rockauto.com. They have the Denso Hanshin brand. This is the brand Nissan uses.
Just stay away from the e-bay 6 for $100 specials if you intend to keep the car more than 6 months.
It depends on several factors. If the used coil has a lot of miles on it, say 125K, it is approaching its failure point. Of course there is no specific point that anyone can say is the failure point, but the more use it has, the less life it has left.
Then you have to consider how long you would like that coil to last for you. If expect it to last 5 years, a high mileage, used coil isn't a good idea.
Then there is the mighty dollar. How many of them do you have? Sometimes you have to go cheap because it is all you can do.
If you can afford $60 for a coil, a good deal is on rockauto.com. They have the Denso Hanshin brand. This is the brand Nissan uses.
Just stay away from the e-bay 6 for $100 specials if you intend to keep the car more than 6 months.
this completely answers a question I had. I bought a junkyard coil. Works better but is at the end of its life too. Tested 1.6 ohms cold and 1.8 ohms once warmed up. So I was at rockauto.com and noticed the Wells and standard motor parts coils were nice and cheap. But I figured it wouldn't be a great idea, because after asking I quickly found out that the cheaper coils give improper resistance, which will throw a MIL code. I also noticed they have the genuine OEM coils for $60/each. That's likely the rout I'm going to go now, ( especially considering that my local junk yard charged me $45 for that coil which is on its last leg). Here's an idea, if the problem with the cheaper coils is in the spring, couldn't one use just the electrical pack and put the spring, steam and boots from the ur old coil pack on it?
02-26-2014 | 06:26 PM
#9134
When you measure the resistance of a coil, you are measuring the forward bias or the reverse bias of the power transistor in the coil pack. You are told to measure this because it is the most likely thing to fail.
02-27-2014 | 10:46 AM
#9135
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 3
Axle Seal/ bearing?
First let me say Hello, I'm new! I searched and didn't come up with the answer. I have a 2002 Infiniti i35. I have had a few issues with suspension etc. I had a grinding sound and took it into a mechanic that seemed pretty good based off reviews and I had them do some things on my old M3 in the past.
Turns out it was a wheel bearing in the front passenger side. I paid approx. $400+ for the repair. It came with a warranty and at the same time the Mech offered additional repairs like brakes ETC.
About a month or two later (barely driven) My wife noticed a intermittent sound coming from the wheel. I then noticed a bit of feeling in the wheel along with the sound. I then made an appointment with the Mechanic> I thought it would be free as the wheel bearing inspect was. No, $35 and will not go towards repair? What? So I mention the other work and they say leave it and we will call you. Turns out that it is a axle bearing over the phone and a axle seal on the quote. Not related and was not tapered during wheel bearing replacement. Another $400+ for axle bearing/ seal? Does this sound right? Would they remove seal when doing wheel bearing? The service manual shows a lot of parts that need replacement while doing this work, but no matter how much I search axle seal it doesn't exist but for sale online for $6? Can someone shed some light please?
Turns out it was a wheel bearing in the front passenger side. I paid approx. $400+ for the repair. It came with a warranty and at the same time the Mech offered additional repairs like brakes ETC.
About a month or two later (barely driven) My wife noticed a intermittent sound coming from the wheel. I then noticed a bit of feeling in the wheel along with the sound. I then made an appointment with the Mechanic> I thought it would be free as the wheel bearing inspect was. No, $35 and will not go towards repair? What? So I mention the other work and they say leave it and we will call you. Turns out that it is a axle bearing over the phone and a axle seal on the quote. Not related and was not tapered during wheel bearing replacement. Another $400+ for axle bearing/ seal? Does this sound right? Would they remove seal when doing wheel bearing? The service manual shows a lot of parts that need replacement while doing this work, but no matter how much I search axle seal it doesn't exist but for sale online for $6? Can someone shed some light please?
03-03-2014 | 10:19 PM
#9136
Engine pull
Hey guys I am new here and have looked up engine removal and found a few about dropping engine and trans but I have no way to raise my car high enough to drop it. I am going to pull it out the top this weekend and just was looing for some tips or things to watch out for. Many say this is harder than dropping out the bottom. Any advice is much appreciated, thanks ahead of time!
03-05-2014 | 06:09 PM
#9137
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 4
From: 07052
Heater not blowing in cabin
Hi guys,
I have gotten the most effective help here on a host of issues, please know how straightup awesome this forum is. Thank you.
The latest concern on my beloved 1999, the heater doesn't blow.
I press the button for AUTO heat, Display goes on, shows a nice high temp setting, the fan symbols light up to all four, and I hear something fanlike kick on in the engine area when this all happens. No heat blows in to the cabin, however.
Coolant is topped off, and the vents in the cabin are all in open position.
You gotta see how I dress for the 1 hour drive to work. I live in Northern NJ, and the temp at 5:50 AM has been in the teens most days. Though I warm her up for 15-20 minutes every cold day, Lately half the drive is over before the breath in the cabin stops being visible!
Help. Thanks so much!
Will
I have gotten the most effective help here on a host of issues, please know how straightup awesome this forum is. Thank you.
The latest concern on my beloved 1999, the heater doesn't blow.
I press the button for AUTO heat, Display goes on, shows a nice high temp setting, the fan symbols light up to all four, and I hear something fanlike kick on in the engine area when this all happens. No heat blows in to the cabin, however.
Coolant is topped off, and the vents in the cabin are all in open position.
You gotta see how I dress for the 1 hour drive to work. I live in Northern NJ, and the temp at 5:50 AM has been in the teens most days. Though I warm her up for 15-20 minutes every cold day, Lately half the drive is over before the breath in the cabin stops being visible!
Help. Thanks so much!
Will
03-05-2014 | 07:03 PM
#9138
Hi guys,
I have gotten the most effective help here on a host of issues, please know how straightup awesome this forum is. Thank you.
The latest concern on my beloved 1999, the heater doesn't blow.
I press the button for AUTO heat, Display goes on, shows a nice high temp setting, the fan symbols light up to all four, and I hear something fanlike kick on in the engine area when this all happens. No heat blows in to the cabin, however.
Coolant is topped off, and the vents in the cabin are all in open position.
You gotta see how I dress for the 1 hour drive to work. I live in Northern NJ, and the temp at 5:50 AM has been in the teens most days. Though I warm her up for 15-20 minutes every cold day, Lately half the drive is over before the breath in the cabin stops being visible!
Help. Thanks so much!
Will
I have gotten the most effective help here on a host of issues, please know how straightup awesome this forum is. Thank you.
The latest concern on my beloved 1999, the heater doesn't blow.
I press the button for AUTO heat, Display goes on, shows a nice high temp setting, the fan symbols light up to all four, and I hear something fanlike kick on in the engine area when this all happens. No heat blows in to the cabin, however.
Coolant is topped off, and the vents in the cabin are all in open position.
You gotta see how I dress for the 1 hour drive to work. I live in Northern NJ, and the temp at 5:50 AM has been in the teens most days. Though I warm her up for 15-20 minutes every cold day, Lately half the drive is over before the breath in the cabin stops being visible!
Help. Thanks so much!
Will
03-10-2014 | 09:11 AM
#9139
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 8
GXE Powered Leather Interior swap/mod
Ok heres my noob question.. Did nissan make any non powered leather seats for the 4th gens? the reason I ask is because I just picked up a GXE 5speed Sage mist 99 (as u can see in my username) but it doesnt have the wiring harness for power seats TRUST ME ITS NOT UNDER THE CARPET I THROUGHLY CHECKED.. I recently owned a 98 SE Dark Evergreen that came stock tan cloth & I swapped out black leather and it was just plug and play + the fuse. tranny went on that one so I sold everything (unfortunately). I found another set of leather but again my GXE doesnt come with the harness. NOW -> Ive heard of cases where power can be taken from the fuse box by doing some in my opinion CERTIFIED ELECTRICIAN WORK! I am far from good with wiring and dont wanna mess anything up but would pay for it to get done. I also heard of people going thru the cig lighter to steal power for the seats. HOW CAN THIS BE DONE 
?!?! please help! thanks p.s. disregard the 1st question abt nissan making non powered leather seats im almost 99% sure they dont but u know that 1% 
IM REALLY INTERESTED IN HOW TO POWER THE SEATS FROM A DIFFERENT SOURCE! THANKS
?!?! please help! thanks p.s. disregard the 1st question abt nissan making non powered leather seats im almost 99% sure they dont but u know that 1% IM REALLY INTERESTED IN HOW TO POWER THE SEATS FROM A DIFFERENT SOURCE! THANKS
03-10-2014 | 09:22 AM
#9140
Member
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 290
Ok heres my noob question.. Did nissan make any non powered leather seats for the 4th gens? the reason I ask is because I just picked up a GXE 5speed Sage mist 99 (as u can see in my username) but it doesnt have the wiring harness for power seats TRUST ME ITS NOT UNDER THE CARPET I THROUGHLY CHECKED.. I recently owned a 98 SE Dark Evergreen that came stock tan cloth & I swapped out black leather and it was just plug and play + the fuse. tranny went on that one so I sold everything (unfortunately). I found another set of leather but again my GXE doesnt come with the harness. NOW -> Ive heard of cases where power can be taken from the fuse box by doing some in my opinion CERTIFIED ELECTRICIAN WORK! I am far from good with wiring and dont wanna mess anything up but would pay for it to get done. I also heard of people going thru the cig lighter to steal power for the seats. HOW CAN THIS BE DONE ?!?! please help! thanks p.s. disregard the 1st question abt nissan making non powered leather seats im almost 99% sure they dont but u know that 1% IM REALLY INTERESTED IN HOW TO POWER THE SEATS FROM A DIFFERENT SOURCE! THANKS
?!?! please help! thanks p.s. disregard the 1st question abt nissan making non powered leather seats im almost 99% sure they dont but u know that 1% IM REALLY INTERESTED IN HOW TO POWER THE SEATS FROM A DIFFERENT SOURCE! THANKS
03-11-2014 | 01:53 PM
#9142
If you want to use the cigarette lighter power, it should be pretty simple. Remove the trim panel from around the shift lever and the cigarette lighter comes out with it.
03-11-2014 | 06:09 PM
#9143
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 8
cigarette lighter splice to power leather seats
My 97 has gray cloth power seats. It's interesting that you can't find wires under the carpet. I thought all cars had the wires.
If you want to use the cigarette lighter power, it should be pretty simple. Remove the trim panel from around the shift lever and the cigarette lighter comes out with it.
If you want to use the cigarette lighter power, it should be pretty simple. Remove the trim panel from around the shift lever and the cigarette lighter comes out with it.
I know how to get to the back of the cigarette lighter my ignorance comes to the wiring.. Do I need a specific type of wiring or can I use any wiring? common sense is telling me "electrical wiring".. but whats the difference from speaker wiring and electrical wiring? (probably a stupid question but whatever ill own the Noob title i dont care) once I get the proper wiring I know the process is obviously red with red black with black unless there are other colored wires? .....ok now once I get the right wires and splice into the cigarette lighter wires should I splice the other end into the power seats harnesses that I took from my old maxima? see pics:
or should I just splice into the actual seat wiring and skip the harness altogether?
03-11-2014 | 07:39 PM
#9145
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 8
OK Back 2 Powering The Seats
Heres what I found on ebay now just to confirm can I use this wire? ^^^^^
IVe been researching the difference between wires and Ive realized that I need power/ground wire.. now the question is what gauge? what is shown above is 10 gauge wire but the ebay listing says I can specify to any gauge number I need..
Now once I receive the wire which wire would be considered positive/negative on the seat harness connector? it is the 2 yellow and black wires.. the green/red and black wires are for the seatbelt connector. im almost there please dont fail me now guys!
03-12-2014 | 01:25 AM
#9146
Heres what I found on ebay now just to confirm can I use this wire?
IVe been researching the difference between wires and Ive realized that I need power/ground wire.. now the question is what gauge? what is shown above is 10 gauge wire but the ebay listing says I can specify to any gauge number I need..
Now once I receive the wire which wire would be considered positive/negative on the seat harness connector? it is the 2 yellow and black wires.. the green/red and black wires are for the seatbelt connector. im almost there please dont fail me now guys!
IVe been researching the difference between wires and Ive realized that I need power/ground wire.. now the question is what gauge? what is shown above is 10 gauge wire but the ebay listing says I can specify to any gauge number I need..
Now once I receive the wire which wire would be considered positive/negative on the seat harness connector? it is the 2 yellow and black wires.. the green/red and black wires are for the seatbelt connector. im almost there please dont fail me now guys!
1) wire is wire - as long as it is the same metal. Copper wire will conduct more electricity than aluminum wire of the same size/gauge. Silver wire will conduct a lot more electricity than copper, but it is crazy expensive and hard to find; it's not needed for things the average person will encounter. Copper wire is the most common.
2) speaker wire, bell wire, house wire, computer wire? First, read # 1 above. What makes a difference is the insulation around the metal wire. There are 2 things to consider. How tough is the insulation, meaning how well will it resist getting cut, abused, man handled, heated, etc. Then there is the voltage that the wire will be carrying. The higher the voltage, the higher the dielectric rating has to be. Dielectric is kinda like saying how much insulating capability does the insulation have to prevent the electricity from sparking through the insulation. If you used speaker wire for 220 volts ac, I bet you would see the wires sparking and melting the insulation. Speaker wire is for low voltage applications. Low voltage means 24 volts or less, although maybe it's 48 volts or less. But I wouldn't use speaker wire in the car because it is an indoor wire and the environmental conditions of being in a car could cause the insulation to break and fall off.
3) wire gauge. The thicker the wire, the more electrical current it can carry. Wire gauge is expressed in numbers, the lower the number, the thicker the wire. How many amps a wire can carry will be different for different voltages. Limiting this to 12 volts that our car uses, a 10 gauge wire can safely carry 20 amps for 15 feet.
So 10 gauge wire is bigger than you need for the seats. Of course you could use it, but it would be like using a 5 gallon bucket to hold a gallon of water. You just would not be using it fully. When it comes to wire, copper is expensive, so why pay for thicker wire that you don't need? Also, the thicker the wire, the more difficult it is to route and conceal.
So what size wire do you need for the seats? I don't know. I would have to go look at my seats and check the wire size. But I can make an educated guess. The power seats have a 30 amp fuse. Fuses are rated for more current (amps) than they have to really carry. A 20 amp fuse would work fine. The rating of the fuse is also selected to allow more than one seat motor being operated at a time. Probably all of them at once.
So I would drop down to 12 gauge wire. It can handle 10 amps. I'm guessing that the motors use 5 amps or less. You could always take the wire harness piece that you have to some place like a Radio Shack and ask them what size the wire is. Hopefully they have someone that knows a little about electricity. Most of them are just cell phone salesmen now days. But make sure you are comparing the size of the metal wire itself, not the overall size with the insulation on it. You could also try a Home Depot type store, too.
- - - - -
To remove the trim plate from around the shifter, you first have to remove the ash tray. Open the ash tray and look in the top right corner foe a philips head screw. Remove the screw and then pull the entire ash tray assembly straight out towards the rear. There are 2 wedge or pressure type clips holding it in and they are kinda strong.
Once you have the ash tray out, use a wide, flat blade screwdriver to pry up the trim plate around the shift lever. There are 4 pressure clips holding it. While the trim plate curves up towards the radio, just think of the flat section before the trim plate curves. You have a clip in each corner of the flat section. Start at the rear of the car and pry up on the side where the corner starts to curve. When you have the back end up, do the 2 towards the front. The clips are about even with the opening for the shift lever.
On the wire harness piece for the seat, the yellow wire is the 12 volts for the motors, the black wire is ground. A solid black wire is always chassis ground in the Maxima. A black wire with a stripe is USUALLY, but not 100% of the time, a ground wire that goes through a switch or something to get to the chassis. In your photo, the black wire has a silver dot on it. You will see them on the color wires, too. Ignore dots, I think they are manufacturer's markings.
Last edited by DennisMik; 03-12-2014 at 01:36 AM.
03-12-2014 | 10:22 AM
#9147
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 8
Some wire basics:
1) wire is wire - as long as it is the same metal. Copper wire will conduct more electricity than aluminum wire of the same size/gauge. Silver wire will conduct a lot more electricity than copper, but it is crazy expensive and hard to find; it's not needed for things the average person will encounter. Copper wire is the most common.
2) speaker wire, bell wire, house wire, computer wire? First, read # 1 above. What makes a difference is the insulation around the metal wire. There are 2 things to consider. How tough is the insulation, meaning how well will it resist getting cut, abused, man handled, heated, etc. Then there is the voltage that the wire will be carrying. The higher the voltage, the higher the dielectric rating has to be. Dielectric is kinda like saying how much insulating capability does the insulation have to prevent the electricity from sparking through the insulation. If you used speaker wire for 220 volts ac, I bet you would see the wires sparking and melting the insulation. Speaker wire is for low voltage applications. Low voltage means 24 volts or less, although maybe it's 48 volts or less. But I wouldn't use speaker wire in the car because it is an indoor wire and the environmental conditions of being in a car could cause the insulation to break and fall off.
3) wire gauge. The thicker the wire, the more electrical current it can carry. Wire gauge is expressed in numbers, the lower the number, the thicker the wire. How many amps a wire can carry will be different for different voltages. Limiting this to 12 volts that our car uses, a 10 gauge wire can safely carry 20 amps for 15 feet.
So 10 gauge wire is bigger than you need for the seats. Of course you could use it, but it would be like using a 5 gallon bucket to hold a gallon of water. You just would not be using it fully. When it comes to wire, copper is expensive, so why pay for thicker wire that you don't need? Also, the thicker the wire, the more difficult it is to route and conceal.
So what size wire do you need for the seats? I don't know. I would have to go look at my seats and check the wire size. But I can make an educated guess. The power seats have a 30 amp fuse. Fuses are rated for more current (amps) than they have to really carry. A 20 amp fuse would work fine. The rating of the fuse is also selected to allow more than one seat motor being operated at a time. Probably all of them at once.
So I would drop down to 12 gauge wire. It can handle 10 amps. I'm guessing that the motors use 5 amps or less. You could always take the wire harness piece that you have to some place like a Radio Shack and ask them what size the wire is. Hopefully they have someone that knows a little about electricity. Most of them are just cell phone salesmen now days. But make sure you are comparing the size of the metal wire itself, not the overall size with the insulation on it. You could also try a Home Depot type store, too.
- - - - -
To remove the trim plate from around the shifter, you first have to remove the ash tray. Open the ash tray and look in the top right corner foe a philips head screw. Remove the screw and then pull the entire ash tray assembly straight out towards the rear. There are 2 wedge or pressure type clips holding it in and they are kinda strong.
Once you have the ash tray out, use a wide, flat blade screwdriver to pry up the trim plate around the shift lever. There are 4 pressure clips holding it. While the trim plate curves up towards the radio, just think of the flat section before the trim plate curves. You have a clip in each corner of the flat section. Start at the rear of the car and pry up on the side where the corner starts to curve. When you have the back end up, do the 2 towards the front. The clips are about even with the opening for the shift lever.
On the wire harness piece for the seat, the yellow wire is the 12 volts for the motors, the black wire is ground. A solid black wire is always chassis ground in the Maxima. A black wire with a stripe is USUALLY, but not 100% of the time, a ground wire that goes through a switch or something to get to the chassis. In your photo, the black wire has a silver dot on it. You will see them on the color wires, too. Ignore dots, I think they are manufacturer's markings.
1) wire is wire - as long as it is the same metal. Copper wire will conduct more electricity than aluminum wire of the same size/gauge. Silver wire will conduct a lot more electricity than copper, but it is crazy expensive and hard to find; it's not needed for things the average person will encounter. Copper wire is the most common.
2) speaker wire, bell wire, house wire, computer wire? First, read # 1 above. What makes a difference is the insulation around the metal wire. There are 2 things to consider. How tough is the insulation, meaning how well will it resist getting cut, abused, man handled, heated, etc. Then there is the voltage that the wire will be carrying. The higher the voltage, the higher the dielectric rating has to be. Dielectric is kinda like saying how much insulating capability does the insulation have to prevent the electricity from sparking through the insulation. If you used speaker wire for 220 volts ac, I bet you would see the wires sparking and melting the insulation. Speaker wire is for low voltage applications. Low voltage means 24 volts or less, although maybe it's 48 volts or less. But I wouldn't use speaker wire in the car because it is an indoor wire and the environmental conditions of being in a car could cause the insulation to break and fall off.
3) wire gauge. The thicker the wire, the more electrical current it can carry. Wire gauge is expressed in numbers, the lower the number, the thicker the wire. How many amps a wire can carry will be different for different voltages. Limiting this to 12 volts that our car uses, a 10 gauge wire can safely carry 20 amps for 15 feet.
So 10 gauge wire is bigger than you need for the seats. Of course you could use it, but it would be like using a 5 gallon bucket to hold a gallon of water. You just would not be using it fully. When it comes to wire, copper is expensive, so why pay for thicker wire that you don't need? Also, the thicker the wire, the more difficult it is to route and conceal.
So what size wire do you need for the seats? I don't know. I would have to go look at my seats and check the wire size. But I can make an educated guess. The power seats have a 30 amp fuse. Fuses are rated for more current (amps) than they have to really carry. A 20 amp fuse would work fine. The rating of the fuse is also selected to allow more than one seat motor being operated at a time. Probably all of them at once.
So I would drop down to 12 gauge wire. It can handle 10 amps. I'm guessing that the motors use 5 amps or less. You could always take the wire harness piece that you have to some place like a Radio Shack and ask them what size the wire is. Hopefully they have someone that knows a little about electricity. Most of them are just cell phone salesmen now days. But make sure you are comparing the size of the metal wire itself, not the overall size with the insulation on it. You could also try a Home Depot type store, too.
- - - - -
To remove the trim plate from around the shifter, you first have to remove the ash tray. Open the ash tray and look in the top right corner foe a philips head screw. Remove the screw and then pull the entire ash tray assembly straight out towards the rear. There are 2 wedge or pressure type clips holding it in and they are kinda strong.
Once you have the ash tray out, use a wide, flat blade screwdriver to pry up the trim plate around the shift lever. There are 4 pressure clips holding it. While the trim plate curves up towards the radio, just think of the flat section before the trim plate curves. You have a clip in each corner of the flat section. Start at the rear of the car and pry up on the side where the corner starts to curve. When you have the back end up, do the 2 towards the front. The clips are about even with the opening for the shift lever.
On the wire harness piece for the seat, the yellow wire is the 12 volts for the motors, the black wire is ground. A solid black wire is always chassis ground in the Maxima. A black wire with a stripe is USUALLY, but not 100% of the time, a ground wire that goes through a switch or something to get to the chassis. In your photo, the black wire has a silver dot on it. You will see them on the color wires, too. Ignore dots, I think they are manufacturer's markings.
03-19-2014 | 09:35 PM
#9148
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 2
Question about OBD II codes P0600 and P0500 and speedometer.
Hi everyone. I recently purchased a '97 Maxima SE, so I am new to the Nissan world and to the forum. I didn't realize Maxima's had such a great following. I am glad I found this forum!
I have looked through the forum about the codes P0600 and P0500. In addition, my speedometer stops working every now and then. From what I have read, I think that I need to start by looking at the cluster and doing some repairs. I think that the speedometer is causing both error codes. Any information on how to check and narrow down the problem or possible fixes would be greatly appreciated.
I have looked through the forum about the codes P0600 and P0500. In addition, my speedometer stops working every now and then. From what I have read, I think that I need to start by looking at the cluster and doing some repairs. I think that the speedometer is causing both error codes. Any information on how to check and narrow down the problem or possible fixes would be greatly appreciated.
03-19-2014 | 10:24 PM
#9149
Hi everyone. I recently purchased a '97 Maxima SE, so I am new to the Nissan world and to the forum. I didn't realize Maxima's had such a great following. I am glad I found this forum!
I have looked through the forum about the codes P0600 and P0500. In addition, my speedometer stops working every now and then. From what I have read, I think that I need to start by looking at the cluster and doing some repairs. I think that the speedometer is causing both error codes. Any information on how to check and narrow down the problem or possible fixes would be greatly appreciated.
I have looked through the forum about the codes P0600 and P0500. In addition, my speedometer stops working every now and then. From what I have read, I think that I need to start by looking at the cluster and doing some repairs. I think that the speedometer is causing both error codes. Any information on how to check and narrow down the problem or possible fixes would be greatly appreciated.
P0500 is the Vehicle Speed Sensor, usually just called VSS. It is mounted in the transmission and the signal is used by the speedometer.
The P0600 code is not related or interconnected with the P0500 code. It is a communication problem between the Transmission Control Module (TCM) and the car's computer, the ECM (also called ECU). Either the wiring between the TCM and ECM is messed up or the TCM is bad. Also possible, especially if you live in the snow belt, is bad ground connections.
You may want to download the service manual for the car. You can get it here:
http://boredmder.com/FSMs/Nissan/Maxima/1997/
For the P0500 and P0600 codes, look in section EC, the index. Page 251 for P0500 and page 265 for the P0600.
03-22-2014 | 04:28 PM
#9150
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 10
From: N.w Alabama
Curb/Courtesy Light Wtf???
Ok, this might have been covered elsewhere but havent been able to find any post on the subject. The Courtesy light, Curb Light which ever you choose... The clear light next to the headlight. Im on my 7th 4th gen and have only seen this on two. When you signal L/R the curb light on only two would light up and illuminate the curb. Think Caddy. I really love this feature on the max crusin at dusk hella fly when you bend the curb. This past weekend i did the Indie Fog mod and it worked like a charm. Before the mod no curb light after BAM lighted curb lights right side only though. Cant figure it out is this a fluke or is this a trim specific feature I.e. Gle Gxe ect... if there is a mod for this some info on how to do it would be greatly appreciated. LET ME STRESS IM NOT LOOKING FOR A TURN SIGNAL MOD. Think signal like a Caddy Deville. ( signal on bright curb light signal off normal corner marker or park light even) Thx in advance.
03-23-2014 | 08:44 PM
#9151
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 12
Gas dripping from gas filler neck
A new problem came up with the 98 Max. We were getting gas, and right under where the nozzle goes in, gas started dripping on the ground, pretty steady. I looked under and it is coming from a rusted area up top underside where the nozzle goes in. When not pumping , no gas comes out driving. Is this common on these cars, and since it's not related to the tank, I think it's still safe to drive, but what do you guys think? Also, what do you think this will cost to repair?
03-23-2014 | 08:59 PM
#9152
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 12
98 Maxima shut off, won't start, what do you think? Also-Shop Fees
We have a 98 Maxima SE with 150k mi. on it, and it recently died on the road.
My Wife has been using this car to go to work 10 mins.away. Bought it new and maintained it, only knew needs a valve cover job and adding oil as needed. She turned key and it was tight turning key but started car fine, then drove it a few hundred feet and stopped to talk to a friend, put it in park, and then heard a loud metal grating noise from engine and smelled a "burnt cigarette smell."
She then put it in drive, the noise stopped, and she was able to drive the car into a parking spot and put in park again idling, no noise now. Then after 5 mins. idling the car died and couldn't start. She turned the key and silence, no clicking, nothing. She had lights and interior lights, buzzers, but no dashboard lights came on when she turned key. Checked battery cables and tight, no corrosion, and battery is low, not dead. What do you think could be the issue? Really want to keep it, otherwise body and interior is great 98 max.SE
Just had another quick question about shop fees. I'm not much of a wrench guy now with this 4 gen., maybe more with old school 1st gen engines. So, this car is in the shop. My question is the mechanic said $97/hr. for diagnostics, so since I don't know at all, how much time should this kind of diagnostic problem take just to let me know what major items are damaged and what's needed to get it started. I already know I'll need an ignition switch since that was tough turning. Also, I learned afterwards, some shops charge a flat $100 diagnostic charge, not per hour, and some credit it back if you go ahead with the work. Is this problem more involved than that? Thanks again
My Wife has been using this car to go to work 10 mins.away. Bought it new and maintained it, only knew needs a valve cover job and adding oil as needed. She turned key and it was tight turning key but started car fine, then drove it a few hundred feet and stopped to talk to a friend, put it in park, and then heard a loud metal grating noise from engine and smelled a "burnt cigarette smell."
She then put it in drive, the noise stopped, and she was able to drive the car into a parking spot and put in park again idling, no noise now. Then after 5 mins. idling the car died and couldn't start. She turned the key and silence, no clicking, nothing. She had lights and interior lights, buzzers, but no dashboard lights came on when she turned key. Checked battery cables and tight, no corrosion, and battery is low, not dead. What do you think could be the issue? Really want to keep it, otherwise body and interior is great 98 max.SE
Just had another quick question about shop fees. I'm not much of a wrench guy now with this 4 gen., maybe more with old school 1st gen engines. So, this car is in the shop. My question is the mechanic said $97/hr. for diagnostics, so since I don't know at all, how much time should this kind of diagnostic problem take just to let me know what major items are damaged and what's needed to get it started. I already know I'll need an ignition switch since that was tough turning. Also, I learned afterwards, some shops charge a flat $100 diagnostic charge, not per hour, and some credit it back if you go ahead with the work. Is this problem more involved than that? Thanks again
03-23-2014 | 09:31 PM
#9153
A new problem came up with the 98 Max. We were getting gas, and right under where the nozzle goes in, gas started dripping on the ground, pretty steady. I looked under and it is coming from a rusted area up top underside where the nozzle goes in. When not pumping , no gas comes out driving. Is this common on these cars, and since it's not related to the tank, I think it's still safe to drive, but what do you guys think? Also, what do you think this will cost to repair?
The filler tube for cars built between 09/1996 and 06/1998 is Nissan part # 17221-40U02, list price $169.99. You could possibly need some additional parts like clamps and whatever. With labor at $100/hr, I wouldn't be surprised if this was a $400 repair.
03-23-2014 | 09:59 PM
#9154
We have a 98 Maxima SE with 150k mi. on it, and it recently died on the road.
My Wife has been using this car to go to work 10 mins.away. Bought it new and maintained it, only knew needs a valve cover job and adding oil as needed. She turned key and it was tight turning key but started car fine, then drove it a few hundred feet and stopped to talk to a friend, put it in park, and then heard a loud metal grating noise from engine and smelled a "burnt cigarette smell."
She then put it in drive, the noise stopped, and she was able to drive the car into a parking spot and put in park again idling, no noise now. Then after 5 mins. idling the car died and couldn't start. She turned the key and silence, no clicking, nothing. She had lights and interior lights, buzzers, but no dashboard lights came on when she turned key. Checked battery cables and tight, no corrosion, and battery is low, not dead. What do you think could be the issue? Really want to keep it, otherwise body and interior is great 98 max.SE
Just had another quick question about shop fees. I'm not much of a wrench guy now with this 4 gen., maybe more with old school 1st gen engines. So, this car is in the shop. My question is the mechanic said $97/hr. for diagnostics, so since I don't know at all, how much time should this kind of diagnostic problem take just to let me know what major items are damaged and what's needed to get it started. I already know I'll need an ignition switch since that was tough turning. Also, I learned afterwards, some shops charge a flat $100 diagnostic charge, not per hour, and some credit it back if you go ahead with the work. Is this problem more involved than that? Thanks again
My Wife has been using this car to go to work 10 mins.away. Bought it new and maintained it, only knew needs a valve cover job and adding oil as needed. She turned key and it was tight turning key but started car fine, then drove it a few hundred feet and stopped to talk to a friend, put it in park, and then heard a loud metal grating noise from engine and smelled a "burnt cigarette smell."
She then put it in drive, the noise stopped, and she was able to drive the car into a parking spot and put in park again idling, no noise now. Then after 5 mins. idling the car died and couldn't start. She turned the key and silence, no clicking, nothing. She had lights and interior lights, buzzers, but no dashboard lights came on when she turned key. Checked battery cables and tight, no corrosion, and battery is low, not dead. What do you think could be the issue? Really want to keep it, otherwise body and interior is great 98 max.SE
Just had another quick question about shop fees. I'm not much of a wrench guy now with this 4 gen., maybe more with old school 1st gen engines. So, this car is in the shop. My question is the mechanic said $97/hr. for diagnostics, so since I don't know at all, how much time should this kind of diagnostic problem take just to let me know what major items are damaged and what's needed to get it started. I already know I'll need an ignition switch since that was tough turning. Also, I learned afterwards, some shops charge a flat $100 diagnostic charge, not per hour, and some credit it back if you go ahead with the work. Is this problem more involved than that? Thanks again
Ignition switches are cheap, around $40. When I say ignition switch, I am referring to an electrical switch that screws on to the back side of the key lock cylinder, the part you put the key in. It is rather rare for the lock cylinder to go bad, but the part about hard to turn the key could possibly be the lock cylinder. People that are familiar with the car can change the ignition switch in less than an hour.
In addition to the ignition switch, the starter itself could have gotten destroyed. If the starter was engaging the flywheel while the engine was running, the engine would make the starter spin at extremely high rpms. The starter would self destruct.
The prices for starters begin at $125 and go up as high as $250. There is no consistency from store to store. It is a 2 to 3 hour job.
As far as the repair shop goes, many places have a flat rate for estimates. I have no idea how the place you intend to go to does estimates. If they don't give you a credit for the estimate if they do the repair, personally I would find another shop. You ought to call a couple of places to find out how they do estimates anyway.
Another thing to be aware of is the parts. If you can buy a part for say $100, you will pay the repair shop at least $150 for the part. The repair shop does not always get a discount and regardless, they put a markup on the part price.
03-24-2014 | 04:43 PM
#9155
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 12
OK, thanks, and here's what was wrong with it. So, you were correct.
Just picked up the car from the shop and the total cost was $550. It needed an ignition switch, some fuses, relays, and a new starter; the flywheel was fine. Dealer said there is a recall for a new alternator if its still the original, so next is that. So, not as bad as I thought, and back on the road, but will keep it local for now.
Sorry to the mod., will post from here as newbie, duplicate error post in forum to finish thread there.
Last edited by gag; 03-25-2014 at 02:52 PM.
03-27-2014 | 06:41 PM
#9157
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 13
From: Riverview, FL
Total muffler failure
So I was on my way to work this morning when I heard a loud thud from the rear of the car and then my exhaust began to sound really loud and aggresive. When I looked under the car after work this is what I found
https://flic.kr/p/mveuw2
Anybody else ever have this happen? How quickly do I need to get this fixed?
https://flic.kr/p/mveuw2
Anybody else ever have this happen? How quickly do I need to get this fixed?
Last edited by Nturner; 03-27-2014 at 06:57 PM.
03-27-2014 | 07:35 PM
#9158
So I was on my way to work this morning when I heard a loud thud from the rear of the car and then my exhaust began to sound really loud and aggresive. When I looked under the car after work this is what I found
https://flic.kr/p/mveuw2
Anybody else ever have this happen? How quickly do I need to get this fixed?
https://flic.kr/p/mveuw2
Anybody else ever have this happen? How quickly do I need to get this fixed?
Regardless, as far as the car running, you don't need a muffler. You can keep driving the car forever without causing any problems to the car.
But on the other side of the coin we have society. Society says, "we don't like loud cars". You may be driving home from church one Sunday morning and Officer Unfriendly will stop you and give you a piece of paper as a memento of having the honor of speaking to him. Those pieces of paper usually end up costing you money.
Then there is the question of the car passing an inspection so you can get your license plates renewed. If your state has an inspection (most states do), then you will not pass.
You'll have to get a new muffler eventually, so do it now before the neighbors fire bomb your car.
03-27-2014 | 07:42 PM
#9159
Download from here: http://boredmder.com/FSMs/Nissan/Maxima/
Look in section IDX (index) for the items. Most of them (probably all) are in section EC (Engine Control).
03-27-2014 | 09:31 PM
#9160
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 1
I am A noob
I just bought a 1997 Nissan Maxima, Automatic for a good price. I have 4 codes that came up during a diagnosic check.
1. p0340 - camshaft position sensor
2. p0325 - Knock Sensor circuit malfunction
3. p0110 - Intake air temperture circuit malfunction
4. p1335 - Crankshaft position sensor (ref)
I do not have alot of money and would like to fix these problems myself. What would be the most important one to fix first? Do I have to check all of them or can sensor set multiple codes? Any input will help cause I am not a mechanic and don't know much about this. The only symptom the car has is that it takes a few extra seconds to start and the tachometer didn't work 1 time but seems to work fine now. Please Help!
1. p0340 - camshaft position sensor
2. p0325 - Knock Sensor circuit malfunction
3. p0110 - Intake air temperture circuit malfunction
4. p1335 - Crankshaft position sensor (ref)
I do not have alot of money and would like to fix these problems myself. What would be the most important one to fix first? Do I have to check all of them or can sensor set multiple codes? Any input will help cause I am not a mechanic and don't know much about this. The only symptom the car has is that it takes a few extra seconds to start and the tachometer didn't work 1 time but seems to work fine now. Please Help!