Just bought a 2002 Infinity I35, and I am working through some minor problems. One problem I have is the passenger side window. When you press the "Auto Up" button on any side of the car for the passenger window, the window closes, but the recedes about half way. After reading the repair manual, it could either be an obstruction in the window (which is very likely, because I checked) or the encoder sensor is failing.

Has anyone replaced / repaired an encoder before? How difficult / expensive will this repair be? Any advice is appreciated!

 

Luckily I live in Florida and we don't have inspections anymore. Any thoughts on a good replacement that won't break the bank?

 

I don't have any suggestions. It has been a lot of years since I've needed to do that.

 

ok so if i hook my scanner up and watch operational data my idle says 850rpm but my dash says 550rpm ? this is kinda wierd for me but my question is what could cause this and where do i look first i can also take a video if needed

 

I would tend to believe the scanner for the actual rpm, but it wouldn't hurt if you hooked up another scanner for a second opinion.

You could remove the instrument cluster and unplug and re-plug the connectors on the backside several times. This has a cleaning effect.

Otherwise, I think the tach gauge itself is dying.

 

I just bought a set of 4 2003, 350z touring rims, 30mm offset all around. Going on a 97 se. I was wondering what tires people prefer running with this setup. I am not dropped right now, but will be in the near future on coils. I was thinking about running 245 40 18 all around. Did other members have any issues running this thickness on the car. The rims seem to fit fine, just worried about tires rubbing. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

 

I'm more off a noobi can you tell how to post questions

 

When you log in to Maxima.org and get to the main screen for the forum, loog for the blue bar about halfway doen the screen that says "Threads in Forum : 4th Generation (1995-1999) Nissan Maxima"

Above this blue bar on the left end is a button that says "New Thread". Click on it.

It starts by asking you for a title. Use a couple of words to describe you problem, like "car won't start" or "have P0505 check engine code" or whatever. Please don't do something useless like "help".

Then in the main window tell us the problem with whatever details you can. Always tell us what year the car is. Every year of the car is different from the others. Let us know if it is automatic or standard trans. Things you wouldn't expect are different because of the transmission. Details, please.

 

Agreed. Good post. Also using the advanced search is a good starting point too.
Feel free to simply post your question(s) in here too.

 

Hello all. I hope I'm following proper posting rules & etiquette.

My 99 Maxima GLE took some moderate damage to the front end about 3 weeks ago in an accident. No noticeable leaks or damage to radiator. Car ran fine following accident for about 2 weeks. After 1-2 weeks check engine light went on w/ p0443 (EVAP Emission) & p0325 (knock sensor) codes. During that time on 2 separate occasions the engine also died while idling, but started right back up immediately. 2 days ago the engine died while driving. plenty of juice and cranking, but won't restart. Left it and tried again the next day, same problem.

I replaced the fuel pump today but to no effect.

I would appreciate suggestions.

Thanks

 

I have a 1997 max. I Couldn't get it started all winter due to the crankshaft sensor being bad I thought. I replaced it when the weather warmed up and no luck.

There is a code coming up for a random misfire and knock sensor.

I have been told that it won't start due to a sensor or the possibly the fuel filter? And supposedly the misfire code is due to a fault in the computer somewhere?


Thank you in advance!

 

Neither the random misfire or the knock sensor will prevent the car from starting. If fact, the knock sensor code may not be real. Any time you have a problem, you will have the knock sensor code. Ignore it for now because it will probably go away once you get the car running.

Certain sensors could keep the engine from starting, but not all sensors. The crankshaft sensor at the flywheel, CKPS(POS) could, but the crankshaft sensor at the pulley end, CKPS(REF), wouldn't. The camshaft sensor probably would keep the car from starting.

The fuel filter is a stretch. If it was plugged solid, yes, the engine wouldn't get any gas. That's unlikely but easy enough to check. Take the hose off of the top of the filter (the outlet) and turn the ignition key on. You should get gas for about 2 seconds and then the fuel pump will shut off.

Could the ECU (the computer) be the problem? It's possible but the likelihood is way down there.

Does the engine even try to start at all? If the starter is cranking too slow, the crankshaft sensor CKPS(POS) will not generate a signal to the ECU. A bad/discharged battery is not the sole culprit for this. The starter could be bad, binding internally.

Check some of this stuff and clear the codes and see what happens, what codes come back.

If you don't have the Nissan service manual(FSM), download one from here:
http://boredmder.com/FSMs/Nissan/Maxima/

 

Why do people pick on the poor fuel pump? There are so many fuel pumps replaced unnecessarily.

Neither of the codes you mentioned will prevent the engine from starting. If you read my post to trevorwisc that is above this one, you can catch a few things to try.

You could check out the crankshaft sensor CKPS(POS), the procedure is in the service manual.

Another possibility is the MAF, but usually the engine will start.

 

hey guys, Im new to the forum and wanted to know a quick question about the rad support bar, Iv been looking every where and seemed to notice that the lower rad support bar is a common problem with the 4th gens ,, my girl got into a front end acc the other day and the whole bumper , reinforcement bar, lower rad support bar, rad, got messed up… so that being said my question is..

Do i still need to weld or just bolt up if i get the whole support bar? thankssss

 

Spot welds are recommended, but not 100% necessary.
With that being said, I would do it once and do it right.
Make sure you get Oem only.

 

Wouldn't I get an 0407 OBD code if there was an issue with the crankshaft sensor?

 

i have 97 max, was driving with the radio off nd the window down and herd what sounded like metal hanging hitting other metal mixed with loose bolts or something whenever i drove on i bumpy road or hit a pothole.. got to the house and took a look under and everything seemed to be fine, nothing looked loose either, what could this be???

 

You'll just need to inspect further.
Could be lots of things.

 

Supposedly yes. But sometime it doesn't happen. Don't know why.

But the crankshaft sensor that I was referring to is the sensor at the flywheel, CKPS(POS), which is code 0802 or P0335.

The code you referenced, 0407 or P1335, is for the crankshaft sensor on the fan belt pulley, CKPS(REF).

I would check out the flywheel sensor aaccording the the FSM, section EC, pages 304 through 310.

http://boredmder.com/FSMs/Nissan/Maxima/1999/EC.pdf

 

My girl and I just got this and have had it for just about a month, she got into a front end acc and well the pictures speak for themselves,, imo if we were to take it to a body shop they'll most deff charge a good 1300 - 2500 to get it fixed….. What do you guys think??? how much do you guys think it'll cost?? Is it even worth it?? its a 97 with 105k

 

My 95 Maxima's tachometer stopped working a while ago. I've seen other places that say to remove the dash to get to the cluster but I don't know if that's my only problem. Recently, I have had troubles with the idle. I have replaced the IACV, MAS, and the filter, but no dice. The car idles rough at a stop in drive and reverse. Sometimes it even dies on me and the exhaust smells rich. Sometimes the check engine light comes on but will go off later. Is this an electrical problem, something to do with the computer, or a lot of things put together? I would appreciate the help. Thanks!

 

Well, I've been working on replacing my o2 sensor on my 97 GLE maxima. The previous owner had the wrong sensor on and was not connecting to the computer. adapter had 3 prongs rather then the 4 needed to connect. I finally was able to take the old one out after purchasing 22mm o2 sockets that didn't fit i realized it's a 17 mm bolt on the old sensor. The new part I purchased from amazon is actually too thick to fit into the o2 thread. I am trying to figure out what sensor I need that will actually fit. In the photos I show the 4 prong adapter that goes to the computer. and I show the size difference from the new part (that doesn't fit) compared to the old one (that fit) the thicker is the newer part.

 

I would go with h&r... They ride very smooth and not a huge drop .. It's about 1.4 and 1.3 in drop

 

I'm thinking that's a $4K to $5K repair. I wouldn't bother repairing it at that price.

The only way to reduce the repair cost would be get parts from a junkyard and find a guy that does body work out of his garage. I did that for a crunch I had and took a $3500 body shop down to $1500.

But the challenge is to find a good repairman, that's the hardest part.

 

I am guessing that you want to replace the sensor that is mounted after the catalytic converter.

I don't know what the Bosch numbers are. The one that you got from Amazon may be for the 95 & 96 cars.

But if you go to Rock Auto and get the Denso brand # 2344716, that should do it for you.

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,ca...,parttype,5132

 

That's where my problem lies. that part doesn't fit, it fits the harness connector but doesn't fit into the o2 sensor housing. The problem is it's too thick. I saw that 96 sensors look the correct size for the housing but I can't find a 4 wire one.

Essentially I need this size sensor with a 4 wire harness connector.

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/more...453&cc=1211410

Will I end up having to get a new catalytic converter? or could I change out the o2 harness connector? If I have to replace the catalytic converter anyone have any ideas of a decent cheap one to purchase?

 

I'm confused. The photo of the sensor I posted uses a 4 wire connector and it is the smaller size. The only difference between the one that I posted and the one you posted is the brand.

Is the brand what you are objecting to? I was just trying to match the price of the one you bought off of Amazon. If you prefer Bosch, so be it.

When was your car built? there was a change in 06/1996. I didn't think any 97s were built with that date.

But since you don't currently have the correct O2 sensor, you will have to get another something. An O2 sensor will be a lot less less than a catalytic converter. If you get a cat that fits, it will be pretty darn expensive. A universal cat will be maybe half the price but you will need to get it welded in and get an O2 bung put in.

 

They are a different size. they look very similar but if you look at the thread on both one is a bit smaller. I talked to a shop and am about to head to an exhaust shop and see if they can weld a bigger and correct size bung on my cat. Have to find one that's willing to work around some legal catalytic work. I'm not exactly sure when it was built but it is a 97. I appreciate you looking mate hope I can get this done and over with before my trip permit is done and without breaking my bank.

Went to a couple shops looks like my only choice is to get a new catalytic converter. Pretty sure I'll be purchasing from rock auto looking at this cat http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/more...354&cc=1211443
I really didn't want to spend so much just to get an o2 sensor working but it's keeping me back from passing deq. But with the help of this site I also replaced the knock sensor for little to no money so I guess I'm breaking even since some shops wanted somewhere round 400-500 $$$ for the ks.

 

It seems seems strange (to me at least) that you are willing to spend big dollars to make a small dollar part fit. It should be the other way around.

You could take the original O2 sensor to a loacal parts store and compare with a new one before you buy it.

But since I probably don't know all the details, all I can do is say "hope this is the end of your problem".

 

What is the code you are getting from the check engine light? And, have you replaced the primary O2s?

 

Been searching but can't seem to find an answer, my air bag light is always on.. so i can't tell what code its giving out.. what could be the problem to why its always on?

 

Hey guys I just bought a short ram intake and don't know what exhaust to put on her some suggestion would help thanx

 

Well, it just happened again tonight and the car stopped. Remember above, 3 weeks ago we put in the new ignition switch, but today it was tight turning again and same noise, so the starter burnd out again probably. so can anyone tell me what may have caused the new ignition switch to go out a second time? Maybe a wire or bad fuse or relay they missed the first time. Also, I guess they should fix it right now after they didn't at first, and not charge me for the switch and starter that blew again. I had to have it towed back to the same shop because it just cost me $550 for the same job .

 

What is your car again, a Chevy Cobalt?

If you lost another ignition switch and starter, that is really strange/suspicious especially since they are fairly new. This is a one of a kind problem, not the usual kind of problem.

But thinking of the GM recall, does who ever drives the car the most (your wife?) have a heavy wad of keys on the key ring? This could maybe be pulling the key towards the start position.

But i'm guessing. I don't have any idea of what could be causing this.

 

Thanks again. Nah, its a 98 maxima you answered about it a few weeks ago here. Guy replaced a fuse and said that may have done it, but still suspicious of more blowing it all again. My wife has a ring with 3 keys only on it after I told her last year a big wad of keys is bad.


Here's my original post info for you:


We have a 98 Maxima SE with 150k mi. on it, and it recently died on the road.
My Wife has been using this car to go to work 10 mins.away. Bought it new and maintained it, only knew needs a valve cover job and adding oil as needed. She turned key and it was tight turning key but started car fine, then drove it a few hundred feet and stopped to talk to a friend, put it in park, and then heard a loud metal grating noise from engine and smelled a "burnt cigarette smell."
She then put it in drive, the noise stopped, and she was able to drive the car into a parking spot and put in park again idling, no noise now. Then after 5 mins. idling the car died and couldn't start. She turned the key and silence, no clicking, nothing. She had lights and interior lights, buzzers, but no dashboard lights came on when she turned key. Checked battery cables and tight, no corrosion, and battery is low, not dead.

 

Can a 1999 maxima door fit a 95 maxima

 

Yes, definitely.

 

I tried a joke, but you missed my sarcasm.

But now I am somewhat confused as what the current status is. Yesterday you said the car failed again and the way I read it was that it was the same exact thing. But with today's post, it sounds like the car is working now after replacing a fuse?

If it is, can you find out exactly which fuse it was?

 

ok, funny.
anyway, don't know if its in-line fuse or one for ignition maybe. called the guy, but no call back yet. Wife picked it up and said its working now. Yes same thing happened and he replaced fuse and said the ignition switch and starter is still ok. hmmm???

 

Depends on your pockets, but I'll just start with saying the eBay catback isn't bad for the price.

Something wrong with your current exhaust, or you just have the bug?